Bergen gets 230 rainy days a year. Two hundred and thirty. Locals have a saying: "there's no bad weather, only bad clothing." I tested this theory over five days in June and came home with a profound respect for waterproof jackets, an unexpected love for pickled herring, and the conviction that Bergen might be the most underrated city in Scandinavia. If you're exploring the region, Tromso is Norway's Arctic capital further north.
Here's what to do with your time — rain or shine.
1. Walk Through Bryggen Wharf at Dawn
Bryggen is Bergen's UNESCO-listed row of colorful Hanseatic wooden buildings dating to the 14th century. They lean slightly toward each other like old friends sharing secrets, and the narrow alleyways behind them are filled with workshops, galleries, and the smell of old timber. If you're exploring the region, Reykjavik is another Nordic gateway to dramatic landscapes.
It's free to walk through. Do it early — by 9AM in summer, the cruise ship passengers start flooding in. At 7AM, it's just you and the seagulls.
The Hanseatic Museum (95 NOK, about $9) tells the story of Bergen's medieval trading past. It's small but excellent — the wooden merchant quarters are preserved almost exactly as they were 500 years ago. Dark, cramped, and fascinating. If you're exploring the region, Copenhagen is the Scandinavian capital most visitors fly through.
2. Ride the Floibanen Funicular to Mount Floyen
This is Bergen's signature experience — a 6-minute funicular ride to 320 meters for panoramic views over the city, the harbor, and the surrounding fjords. Tickets are 55 NOK one-way or 95 NOK return. If you're exploring the region, Edinburgh is another atmospheric northern European city.
The smart move: buy a one-way ticket up and walk down. The descent takes about 45 minutes through forest trails, and you save 40 NOK. The funicular runs daily until 11PM, which means summer sunset rides are spectacular.
At the top, the Troll Forest is a family-friendly trail with carved wooden trolls hidden among the trees. It sounds cheesy. It's actually delightful.
3. Eat at the Fish Market (Strategically)
Bergen's Fisketorget has operated since the 1200s. The current version splits between an outdoor market and an indoor food hall, right on the harbor next to Bryggen.
Here's the honest truth: the fish market is expensive. King crab legs run 250-350 NOK (~$24-33). Seafood platters can exceed 500 NOK easily. Portions are generous, so share — one king crab serving is enough for two people.
The fish soup, though? That's the move. 120-150 NOK for a bowl that's creamy, loaded with actual fish, and served with bread. It's the best value item on every stall.
For cheaper seafood, skip the market and try Enhjorningen restaurant or the food halls in Mathallen Bergen.
4. Take the Ulriken Cable Car
Mount Ulriken is the highest of Bergen's seven mountains at 643 meters — nearly double Floyen's height. The cable car costs 200 NOK return and runs every 7 minutes.
The views are more dramatic than Floyen's because you're higher and more exposed. On a clear day (emphasis on "clear" — check yr.no, the Norwegian weather service, before going), you can see all the way to the outer islands.
For the truly ambitious: the Vidden trail connects Ulriken to Floyen across Bergen's mountain ridgeline. It's a 5-6 hour hike through exposed alpine terrain. Spectacular, but do not attempt it in fog, rain, or strong wind. And check for snow patches — they can persist into June.
5. Cruise a Fjord
Bergen is the departure point for Norway's most famous fjord cruises, and skipping them would be like visiting Paris and not seeing the Seine.
The full Norway in a Nutshell tour to Sognefjorden (from ~1,700 NOK) combines boat, train, and bus in a full-day loop. It's pricey but genuinely impressive — Sognefjorden is 204 km long and over 1,300 meters deep.
Budget alternative: the Mostraumen fjord cruise (3 hours, ~600 NOK) departs from the fish market and threads through narrow channels with waterfalls cascading down cliff faces. It's the best value fjord experience I found.
6. Explore the KODE Art Museums
Four art museums arranged around Lille Lungegardssvann lake, housing Edvard Munch paintings, Norwegian folk art, and contemporary exhibitions. A single 150 NOK ticket covers all four buildings.
The Munch collection is smaller than Oslo's dedicated museum but also far less crowded. You can actually stand in front of the paintings without someone's selfie stick in your peripheral vision.
Open Tues-Sun, 11AM-5PM. Plan for 2-3 hours across all four buildings.
7. Buy a Bergen Card
I almost didn't mention this because it sounds like a tourist gimmick, but the Bergen Card (340 NOK for 24 hours) is genuinely excellent value. It includes free buses, the Floyen funicular, and entry to most museums.
Do the math: funicular return (95 NOK) + KODE museums (150 NOK) + one bus ride (40 NOK) = 285 NOK. Add any other museum or bus trip and the card pays for itself. I saved about 200 NOK over 24 hours.
8. Hunt for Street Art in Skostredet
Bergen has a serious street art scene that most guidebooks ignore. The Skostredet neighborhood — a few blocks south of Bryggen — has some of the best murals in Scandinavia. Dolk, Bergen's most famous street artist, has pieces scattered throughout the city.
It's free, it's fun in the rain (street art doesn't close for weather), and it gives you a reason to explore neighborhoods that tourists typically skip.
9. Visit Troldhaugen — Edvard Grieg's Home
The composer of "In the Hall of the Mountain King" lived in this lakeside villa from 1885 until his death in 1907. Entry: 120 NOK. Located 8 km south of the center (bus 1 from the city center, about 30 minutes).
The house is preserved almost exactly as Grieg left it, including his tiny composing hut at the water's edge. In summer, lunch concerts in the on-site concert hall are included with admission. Even if classical music isn't your thing, the lakeside setting is beautiful.
10. Drink at a Brown Bar
Bergen's "brown bars" — traditional Norwegian pubs with dark wood interiors — are where locals actually drink. Forget the tourist pubs near Bryggen. Head to Altona Vinbar or Henrik Olvegaten for local beer at prices that are slightly less devastating (a beer is 90-110 NOK everywhere, but the atmosphere matters).
Norwegian craft beer has exploded in the last decade. Look for beers from 7 Fjell Bryggeri (Bergen's own craft brewery) on tap.
11. Shop at the Stalls Behind Bryggen
The narrow backstreets behind the Bryggen wharf facades house small workshops and studios selling handmade jewelry, knitwear, ceramics, and carved wood. These are working artisans, not souvenir factories.
Prices aren't cheap (this is Norway), but the quality is real. I bought a hand-knitted wool hat for 350 NOK that's warmer than anything I've owned.
12. Accept the Rain
Seriously. Stop checking the weather app. Stop hoping for sunshine. Bergen's rain is part of its identity — it's what makes the mountains green, the waterfalls flow, the air smell like forest, and the rare sunny day feel like a religious experience.
Buy a proper rain jacket (Bergans, the Norwegian outdoor brand founded in Bergen, has a flagship store on Strandgaten). Get waterproof shoes. And then go outside anyway.
The locals do. That's the entire point.
Pro Tips
Getting around: The city center is very walkable — Bryggen, fish market, and funicular are within 10 minutes of each other. The Bybanen light rail connects the airport in 40 minutes for 40 NOK.
Budget food: Eat at Rema 1000 or Bunnpris supermarkets for sandwiches and salads at 50-80 NOK instead of 200+ NOK at restaurants.
Transit card: Buy a reloadable Skyss travel card at 7-Eleven or the airport for discounted bus and tram rides.
Closed Mondays: Many restaurants and museums are closed on Mondays. Plan accordingly.
Rain gear: Umbrellas are useless — Bergen wind destroys them. Waterproof jacket and pants are the answer.
