A Cape Town Resident of 15 Years Tells You What the Guidebooks Won't
Sarah van der Merwe moved from Johannesburg to Cape Town in 2011 and works as a documentary filmmaker. She lives in Woodstock, surfs at Muizenberg, and has hosted over 40 visiting friends and family members — making her the unofficial Cape Town tourism expert of her social circle.
What's the first thing you tell visitors before they arrive?
Rent a car. I know everyone says this but it's genuinely essential. Cape Point, Chapman's Peak Drive, the wine region, Boulders Beach — none of these are easily accessible without a car. Rentals start at about R350/day (~$20 USD). Drive on the left. And don't leave anything visible in the car — break-ins at trailheads and beach parking are the number one tourist crime.
The other thing: check the Table Mountain webcam before you go up. The cable car closes when the "tablecloth" cloud descends, which happens fast and unpredictably. People waste a whole day driving out there only to find it closed. The webcam is on tablemountain.net. Clear morning? Go immediately. Drop everything else.
Table Mountain — cable car or hike?
Both, if you have the legs. The cable car costs about R430 (~$24 USD) round trip and the rotating floor gives you 360-degree views on the way up. Book online to skip the queue — it can be 90 minutes in peak season.
But Platteklip Gorge — the main hiking route — takes 2-3 hours up and it's one of the most rewarding hikes in the world. Not because it's pretty (it's steep and relentless), but because when you reach the top and see the city, the ocean, and Robben Island spread below you, the effort makes the view hit different.
My recommendation: hike up Platteklip, cable car down. That's what locals do.
What's the most overrated tourist spot?
Camps Bay Beach. I know. It's gorgeous — the Twelve Apostles mountains behind you, the white sand, the palm-lined promenade. But the water is 8-14°C. The Atlantic side of Cape Town is fed by the Benguela Current and it's cold enough to cause hypothermia. I've seen tourists run in expecting the Mediterranean and come out gasping after 30 seconds.
If you want to actually swim, go to Muizenberg or Fish Hoek on the False Bay side. Water is 16-22°C — still cool but swimmable. Muizenberg also has the best beginner surfing in the city. Surf lessons run about R500 for 2 hours.
Where do you eat when you're not trying to impress anyone?
Kalky's in Kalk Bay for fish and chips — right on the harbor, boats coming in with the day's catch. About R80-120 for a portion. The Neighbourgoods Market in Woodstock on Saturday mornings for everything from Ethiopian injera to Korean bibimbap to local biltong. The Silo Rooftop for sundowners with Table Mountain views (cocktails R100-150).
And for a proper braai (South African BBQ) experience, you need to know someone local. But failing that, Mzansi Restaurant in Khayelitsha does guided township dining experiences that are authentic, affordable (~R250-400 per person), and directly support the local community.
What about the wine region?
The Franschhoek Wine Tram is the most fun way to do it — R300 and it hops between 8 estates. Tastings run R80-200 per estate (~$5-11 USD). You're in and out of a little open-air tram car, drinking world-class wine in one of the most scenic valleys on earth.
But if you want my personal pick? Skip the big-name estates on your first visit. Go to Beau Constantia in Constantia (20 minutes from the city center). Small, boutique, incredible views of False Bay, and their Viognier is the best white wine I've had in South Africa. Tasting is about R150.
For lunch in the winelands: Delaire Graff in Stellenbosch for the splurge (stunning contemporary art collection between courses), or Tokara for the view (the terrace overlooks the entire valley).
If you love wine regions, Buenos Aires is the gateway to Argentina's Malbec country, and Nice opens the door to Provence's rose vineyards.
What do people get wrong about safety?
Two things. First, they're either too scared (staying in the hotel, not going anywhere) or too relaxed (walking down Long Street at 2AM with a phone in hand). The reality is in between.
The tourist areas — V&A Waterfront, Camps Bay, Constantia, Stellenbosch, the Sea Point Promenade — are well-policed and safe during the day. Don't walk with your phone out in busy areas. Lock everything in the trunk before parking (before you arrive at your destination — thieves watch you stash things). Use Uber at night — it's R50-100 across town and reliable.
And don't visit townships without a local guide. Langa, Khayelitsha, and Gugulethu all have excellent community-led tours that support the local economy. It's the most important thing you can do to understand South Africa.
Best free things to do?
So many. Hiking Lion's Head at sunrise (the line for the chain ladders starts forming at 5AM in summer). Walking the Sea Point Promenade. Exploring Bo-Kaap — the brightly painted Cape Malay neighborhood on Signal Hill (Wale Street is the most photographed). Watching the Noon Gun at Signal Hill (it fires at noon every day except Sundays — been doing it since 1806). The Company's Garden downtown. Green Point Park.
Cape Town has this unusual thing where many of the absolute best experiences cost nothing. The mountain, the coastline, the neighborhoods — they're all free. You pay for wine, food, and Robben Island. Everything else is just... there.
What's underrated?
Kalk Bay. A small fishing village on the False Bay side with antique shops, indie bookshops, a harbor with seals, and some of the best restaurants in the city (Harbour House, The Brass Bell). You can spend a whole day there and most tourists have never heard of it.
Also, the sunrise from Lion's Head. Everyone does sunset, which is great. But at sunrise you're alone, the light is pink and gold on Table Mountain across the way, and the city is still asleep below you. It's genuinely one of the most beautiful sights I've experienced.
If someone had just 3 days, what would you prioritize?
Day 1: Table Mountain (hike or cable car, go early), Bo-Kaap walk, V&A Waterfront for lunch, Robben Island tour in the afternoon (book weeks ahead at robben-island.org.za, ~R600).
Day 2: Full Cape Peninsula drive — Chapman's Peak, Boulders Beach penguins (~R176 entry), Cape of Good Hope (~R376 park entry), fish and chips at Kalk Bay on the way back.
Day 3: Wine tasting day in Stellenbosch or Franschhoek. Three estates minimum. Lunch at a vineyard. Buy wine to ship home (DHL from estates is surprisingly affordable).
That's Cape Town in 3 days. Come back for a week and add Muizenberg surfing, the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, a township tour, and enough wine tasting to last a lifetime.
Sarah can be found most Saturday mornings at the Neighbourgoods Market in Woodstock or surfing the longboard break at Muizenberg. Her Cape Town recommendations are also on her Instagram, which she asked us not to link because she doesn't want more DMs from friends-of-friends asking for hosting.
