I've been organizing Alsace trips for five years. Colmar generates more questions than most French destinations — partly because Alsace is culturally unique (German influence, French administration, its own identity), and partly because people aren't sure how much time it deserves.
Here are the answers.
Q: How do I get to Colmar?
TGV train from Paris Gare de l'Est: 2 hours 50 minutes, from €29 if booked early on oui.sncf. Regional TER train from Strasbourg: 35 minutes, ~€13, runs every 30 minutes. EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (BSL/MLH) is 65km south — shuttle bus to Colmar takes about 1 hour.
No car needed in Colmar — the old town is compact and walkable.
Q: How many days does Colmar need?
One full day covers the old town (Petite Venise, Unterlinden Museum, Maison des Tetes). Two days adds the Alsace Wine Route villages. Three days lets you explore the wine route by bike at a relaxed pace.
For Christmas markets, 1-2 evenings is sufficient.
Q: Is Colmar worth visiting or is it a tourist trap?
It's genuinely beautiful. The half-timbered houses, the canals, the flower boxes — none of this is staged. The town has looked this way for centuries. The Christmas markets add a commercial layer, but the underlying town is authentic Alsatian. It's not a trap; it's a real place that happens to be photogenic.
Q: What's the Unterlinden Museum?
Colmar's top museum, housing the Isenheim Altarpiece by Matthias Grunewald (1512-1516) — one of the most important paintings in Western art. The museum spans medieval, Renaissance, and modern art in a former Dominican convent extended by architects Herzog & de Meuron. Entry €13. Open Wed-Mon 9AM-6PM. Allow 2 hours.
Q: What's Petite Venise?
Little Venice — a quarter where half-timbered houses in pastel colors line the Lauch River. Free to walk along the banks. Flat-bottomed boat rides: ~€7, 30 minutes. Best photos in early morning light. The canal setting is what makes Colmar's Instagram account.
Q: What's the Maison des Tetes?
A 1609 Renaissance merchant house covered in 106 sculpted grotesque heads and faces. Now a hotel-restaurant. Free to admire from the street on Rue des Tetes. The ornamentation is extraordinary — look for the cooper statue by Bartholdi (yes, the Statue of Liberty Bartholdi) on the gable.
Q: Which wine route village is the best?
Eguisheim — voted France's favorite village, 7km from Colmar. Concentric medieval lanes, flowering window boxes, and excellent caves (wine cellars) for Cremant d'Alsace tasting. Bus #208 from Colmar (~15 minutes). Free to walk.
Riquewihr — the most photographed village on the route. Extremely well-preserved medieval architecture. More crowded than Eguisheim but justified. 15km from Colmar.
Kaysersberg — birthplace of Albert Schweitzer. A ruined castle overlooks the town. Excellent bakeries and wine shops. 12km from Colmar.
If you only have time for one: Eguisheim.
Q: Can I do the wine route by bike?
Yes, and you should. Rent from Colmar Velo (Place Rapp) for €15/day. The vineyard paths between Colmar and Eguisheim are flat and well-signed. E-bikes available for €30/day for hillier routes to Riquewihr and Kaysersberg.
Most domaines offer free tastings — it's expected you'll buy a bottle or two. Try the Grands Crus Rieslings and Gewurztraminers. Budget 4-5 hours for a comfortable bike wine tour.
Q: What should I eat in Colmar?
Winstubs (traditional wine taverns) are the best places to eat. Lunch menus (plat du jour) run €12-16 — much cheaper than dinner.
Q: What's the deal with the German influence?
Alsace has ping-ponged between France and Germany for centuries. The current borders are French (since 1944), but the architecture, food, and wine style are distinctly Germanic. Many older residents speak Alsatian, a German dialect. The street signs are in French but the half-timbered houses look Bavarian. This cultural blending is what makes Alsace unique in France.
Q: How much does Colmar cost?
Mid-range hotel: €90-140/night. Budget: €60-80. Meal at a winstub: €15-25. Unterlinden Museum: €13. Boat ride: €7. Wine tastings: often free at domaines.
The Colmar Pass (€20 from the tourist office) covers the Unterlinden Museum, a boat ride, and a wine tasting. Saves roughly €10.
Q: Is Colmar cheaper than Paris?
Significantly. Hotel rates are 40-60% lower. Restaurant meals are 30-50% cheaper. And you don't need public transport (walkable), which saves more. A comfortable day in Colmar costs €100-150 total versus €200-300 in Paris.
Q: Is Colmar safe?
Very safe (Level 1). The old town is well-lit and well-policed. The main caution is pickpockets during Christmas market crowds — standard precautions apply.
Q: Do I need French to visit Colmar?
Helpful but not essential. Tourist-facing businesses speak English. Winstub staff may have limited English — a few French phrases ("bonjour," "s'il vous plait," "l'addition") go a long way. German is also understood by many locals.
The TGV makes combining Colmar with Paris easy — just 2 hours 50 minutes for the ultimate French contrast.
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| From Paris | TGV 2h50 |
| From Strasbourg | TER 35 min |
| Currency | Euro (EUR) |
| Language | French, Alsatian, some German |
| Best time | Apr-Jun, late Nov-Dec |
| Safety | Very safe |
| Walkable | Entirely |
| Daily budget | €100-150 comfortable |
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