The Complete Delhi Guide: Seven Ancient Cities in One Chaotic Megacity
Delhi is not one city. It's seven. Literally. Seven successive cities have been built on this patch of the Indo-Gangetic plain since the 11th century. Each one destroyed or abandoned, each one layered on top of the last. The result is a megacity of 32 million people where you can walk from a 12th-century minaret to a 21st-century metro station in fifteen minutes.
This guide covers everything you need to navigate it.
Overview
Delhi divides into two personalities: Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad, the Mughal walled city) and New Delhi (Lutyens' colonial capital, built 1911-1931). Most tourist attractions fall into one of these zones, connected by the excellent Delhi Metro.
The climate is extreme. Summers (April-June) hit 42-47°C — genuinely dangerous heat. Winters (November-February) drop to 2-10°C with fog. Monsoon (July-September) brings relief but flooding. Best time: October to March. Air quality warning: October-January AQI regularly exceeds 300. Pack N95 masks.
Best Time to Visit
October and November offer the best combination of pleasant weather and clear skies. February-March brings spring blooms and the Holi festival. December and January are cold but atmospheric — foggy mornings, clear afternoons, the city lit up for winter events.
Avoid April-June unless you enjoy the sensation of walking inside an oven.
Getting There
Airport: Indira Gandhi International (DEL) — India's busiest. Terminal 3 handles international flights.
Airport to city: The Airport Express metro from T3 to New Delhi station takes 20 minutes (INR 60). Runs 5 AM-11 PM. This is the correct choice. Pre-paid taxis cost INR 400-800 depending on destination. Ola/Uber run INR 300-600 but surge at night.
Never follow strangers offering "cheap transport" outside the terminal. Use the official pre-paid taxi counter inside arrivals.
Where to Stay
Budget: Paharganj (backpacker district near New Delhi station). Chaotic but central. INR 500-1,500/night.
Mid-range: Connaught Place or Karol Bagh. Both on metro lines, close to restaurants and shopping. INR 2,000-5,000.
Upscale: Chanakyapuri or Lodhi Road area. Quiet, leafy, near embassies. ITC Maurya (home of Bukhara restaurant), The Imperial (Art Deco heritage). INR 8,000-25,000.
What to Do: Old Delhi
Red Fort (Lal Qila)
UNESCO-listed 17th-century Mughal fortress spanning 254 acres. Entry INR 600 foreigners, INR 35 Indians. Open Tue-Sun sunrise-sunset. The evening sound-and-light show (INR 80) recounts Mughal history against the red sandstone walls. Allow 2-3 hours.
Chandni Chowk
Asia's oldest and most chaotic market, established in the 17th century. The food walk is mandatory: paranthe at Paranthe Wali Gali (INR 100-200), jalebi at Old Famous Jalebi Wala (INR 60/plate), nihari at Karim's near Jama Masjid (INR 250). Budget INR 500 for the full trail. Allow 3-4 hours.
Take a cycle rickshaw ride through the narrow lanes (INR 50-100). Negotiate before boarding.
Jama Masjid
India's largest mosque (1656). Free entry. Camera fee INR 300. Climb the southern minaret for Old Delhi panorama (INR 150). Dress modestly.
What to Do: New Delhi & South Delhi
Humayun's Tomb
The garden tomb that inspired the Taj Mahal. Entry INR 600 foreigners. Best in late afternoon golden light. Don't miss adjacent Isa Khan's Tomb and the restored Sundar Nursery. Near Nizamuddin station.
Qutub Minar
73-meter UNESCO victory tower from 1193. The tallest brick minaret in the world. Entry INR 600 foreigners. The adjacent Mehrauli Archaeological Park has free ruins in a forest setting — Balban's tomb, Jamali Kamali mosque, Rajon ki Baoli stepwell.
Lotus Temple
Baha'i House of Worship shaped like a 27-petal lotus flower. Free entry. Open Tue-Sun 9 AM-5:30 PM. Silent meditation inside. Metro: Kalkaji Mandir.
India Gate
42-meter war memorial on Kartavya Path. Free, open 24/7. Best in evening when families gather and the fountains illuminate.
Hauz Khas Village
13th-century ruins and lake surrounded by trendy cafes. Where medieval Delhi meets hipster culture. Free entry to ruins. Best at sunset from the deer park.
Spiritual Delhi
Nizamuddin Dargah
14th-century Sufi shrine. Thursday evening qawwali (devotional music) after Maghrib prayers is transcendent. Free. Remove shoes, cover head. The surrounding lanes have outstanding kebabs.
Gurudwara Bangla Sahib
Delhi's largest Sikh temple. Free entry, head coverings provided. Visit the langar (community kitchen) serving 10,000 free meals daily. Volunteer to serve or eat. A humbling experience.
Food Guide
Type
Where
What
Cost
Street
Chandni Chowk
Paranthe, jalebi, nihari
INR 50-250
Street
Sadar Bazaar
Chaat, golgappe
INR 30-80
Casual
Saravana Bhavan, CP
South Indian dosas
INR 200-400
Mid-range
Big Chill, Khan Market
Pasta, desserts
INR 500-800
Fine dining
Bukhara, ITC Maurya
Dal bukhara, kebabs
INR 4,000-6,000
Government canteen
Andhra Bhawan
Unlimited thali
INR 150
The Andhra Bhawan Canteen is a local legend — unlimited Andhra thali for INR 150 in a government building. Open to public.
Getting Around
Delhi Metro is your best friend. Buy a Tourist Card (INR 200 for 1 day, INR 500 for 3 days, unlimited rides). The Yellow Line connects most heritage sites. Google Maps has accurate metro timings.
Women-only coach at the front of each train. Avoid 8-10 AM and 6-8 PM rush.
Ola/Uber work everywhere but surge in rain and rush hour. Auto-rickshaws should use meters but often don't — negotiate or use apps.
Budget Breakdown
Category
Budget/Day
Mid-Range/Day
Accommodation
INR 800-1,500
INR 2,500-5,000
Food
INR 300-600
INR 800-2,000
Transport
INR 100-300
INR 400-1,000
Attractions
INR 200-600
INR 600-1,500
Total
INR 1,400-3,000
INR 4,300-9,500
Safety Notes
The classic day trip or overnight from Delhi is Agra, home of the Taj Mahal.
Complete the Golden Triangle with Jaipur, Rajasthan's Pink City.
At New Delhi Railway Station, ignore anyone saying "the tourist office moved." It's a scam to redirect you to a private agent.
Use only pre-paid taxi counters or ride apps from the airport.
Never follow strangers to "government emporiums."
Tap water is NOT safe. Drink sealed bottled water (Bisleri, Aquafina).
Air quality: Check aqicn.org before outdoor plans. Above AQI 200, limit outdoor time.
