The Complete Guide to Samarkand: Silk Road Jewel on a Budget
Samarkand is one of those places that sounds like it should be expensive. UNESCO World Heritage Site. Two-and-a-half thousand years of history. Monuments that rival the Taj Mahal in scale and craftsmanship.
But this is Uzbekistan, and the prices are almost comically low. Monument entries run $2-3. A plate of the country's best plov costs $2. And a guesthouse in a converted caravanserai goes for $12-24 per night.
Here's everything you need to plan the trip.
Overview
Samarkand sits in eastern Uzbekistan at the crossroads of the ancient Silk Road. Population: 550,000. Tamerlane (Amir Timur) made it his capital in the 14th century and poured the wealth of conquered empires into its architecture. The result is a concentration of turquoise-tiled monuments that has no equivalent anywhere in the world.
The city earned UNESCO World Heritage status in 2001 as "Samarkand — Crossroad of Cultures."
Best Time to Visit
April to June and September to November. Temperatures sit at a pleasant 20-30°C. The light is golden. The crowds are manageable.
Avoid July and August — temperatures hit 38-42°C. Walking between monuments in that heat is punishing. Winter (December-February) drops to -5°C to 5°C with occasional snow.
Getting There
By train (recommended): The Afrosiyob high-speed train from Tashkent takes 2 hours 10 minutes. Tickets cost 90,000-150,000 UZS ($7-12) depending on class. Book at uzrailway.uz or at the station. Trains run 2-4 times daily.
By air: Samarkand International Airport (SKD) has domestic flights from Tashkent and limited international connections. 7km from the city center.
By shared taxi: Cheaper than the train (40,000-60,000 UZS from Tashkent), less comfortable, takes 4-5 hours.
Where to Stay
The best accommodation is in family-run guesthouses in the old town, many converted from historic buildings. Rates run 150,000-300,000 UZS/night (~$12-24). They typically include breakfast (always with fresh non and tea), are spotlessly clean, and the owners know the city intimately.
For mid-range, boutique hotels near the Registan charge 400,000-800,000 UZS (~$32-64). True luxury options are limited — this isn't that kind of city.
What to See
Registan Square
Three madrasas, turquoise tiles, 600 years of history. Central Asia's single most iconic sight. Entry: 40,000 UZS (~$3.20). Open 8AM-7PM summer, 9AM-5PM winter. Hire a guide for 80,000-120,000 UZS to understand the architecture's deeper stories. Evening light show at 8PM (free from outside).
Allow 1.5-2 hours.
Shah-i-Zinda
An avenue of 14th-15th century mausoleums with the most extraordinary tilework in Central Asia. Entry: 25,000 UZS (~$2). Come early morning for the best light. Count the 40 steps going up and down — same number means good luck.
Allow 1-1.5 hours.
Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Once the Islamic world's largest mosque. The entrance portal is 35 meters high. The massive marble Quran stand in the courtyard is said to grant fertility. Entry: 25,000 UZS.
Allow 45 minutes.
Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum
Tamerlane's tomb. Azure dome, gold muqarnas interior, and the world's largest jade slab. The Soviet-invasion legend (they opened the tomb on June 20, 1941; Germany invaded two days later) is chilling regardless of whether you believe in curses. Entry: 25,000 UZS.
Allow 30-45 minutes.
Ulugh Beg Observatory
Remains of a 15th-century observatory with an 11-meter underground sextant. The attached museum explains how Tamerlane's astronomer-grandson charted stars that were used for navigation for centuries. Entry: 25,000 UZS. 2km north of Registan.
Allow 45 minutes.
Siab Bazaar
The traditional market adjacent to Bibi-Khanym. The bread section is legendary — fresh non from tandoor ovens for 3,000-5,000 UZS. Also find dried fruits, nuts, spices, and suzani embroidery. Bargain at 50% of asking price. Open 6AM-6PM.
Allow 1 hour.
What to Eat
Plov: Samarkand plov is the gold standard. Go to the Plov Center on Karimov Street before noon (it runs out by 2PM). A plate costs 20,000-30,000 UZS (~$1.60-2.40).
Non: Samarkand's flatbread is famous across Central Asia. Buy it warm from the bazaar. 3,000-5,000 UZS.
Lagman: Pulled noodle soup with vegetables and meat. 15,000-25,000 UZS at local restaurants.
Manty: Steamed dumplings filled with spiced lamb. 10,000-20,000 UZS for a portion.
Shashlik: Grilled meat skewers, served everywhere after dark. 8,000-15,000 UZS per skewer.
Very safe. Uzbekistan has extremely low tourist crime rates. Standard precautions apply. The one safety note: cash is still king at many shops and bazaars. Bring USD or EUR to exchange at official exchange offices (look for "Obmen Valyuty" signs). Never change money on the street.
Essential Tips
Registration slips: Hotels register you with OVIR (migration police) and give you slips. Keep ALL of them. Officials may check at the airport on departure. Missing nights can result in fines.
Visa-free for 90+ countries: 30-day stay for USA, EU, UK, Canada, Australia, Japan.
Combine with Bukhara and Khiva: The classic route is Tashkent → Samarkand (2h) → Bukhara (1.5h) → Khiva (7h or 30-min flight). Allow 2-3 days in Samarkand.
Photography: Early morning light at Shah-i-Zinda is extraordinary. Sunset at the Registan. The Plov Center is best photographed when the steam is rising around 11AM.
Essential Phrases
Uzbek is the primary language. Russian is widely understood. English is limited outside hotels.
Rahmat (thank you in Uzbek)
Salom (hello)
Qancha? (how much?)
Yaxshi (good/fine)
A smile and basic phrases go remarkably far. Uzbek hospitality is genuine and deep — you'll be invited for tea more than once.
