A 17-kilometer-long island with two towns (Vis on the east, Komiza on the west), 3,400 year-round residents, and a pace of life that makes the rest of the Dalmatian coast look frantic. Home to the Blue Cave, Europe's best beach (Stiniva), indigenous wines, and abandoned military tunnels.
June through September is the swimming season — water temperatures hit 24-26°C, all ferries run, and every restaurant is open. July and August are the busiest (and priciest) months.
The sweet spot is early June or September. Warm enough for swimming, ferries running frequently, but accommodation is cheaper and beaches less crowded. May and October are risky — some restaurants close, ferry schedules thin out, but the weather can still be gorgeous.
Winter is for die-hard Croatophiles only. Most tourism shuts down, ferry service drops to one sailing per day, and you'll have the island to yourself in the best and worst senses.
Fly into Split Airport (SPU) — direct flights from most European capitals and connecting flights from everywhere else.
Ferry from Split: Jadrolinija operates the route. Car ferry: 2.5 hours, ~€12 per person, €40-50 with a vehicle. Catamaran: 1.5 hours, ~€12 per person, foot passengers only.
Book at jadrolinija.hr. Book vehicle spots weeks ahead for July-August — they sell out. Foot passenger tickets are usually available same-day.
The morning ferry arrives around 10-11 AM. The evening return leaves around 4-5 PM (check current schedules). In summer, there are usually two to three sailings daily.
The main settlement, east coast. More restaurants, nightlife (by Vis standards), and the ferry port.
Fishing village, west coast. Quieter, more authentic, launching point for Blue Cave tours.
General rule: Stay in Vis town for convenience, Komiza for atmosphere. With a scooter, moving between them takes 20 minutes.
The headline attraction. On the tiny islet of Bisevo off the west coast. Sunlight refracts through an underwater opening and turns the cave interior electric blue. Best at 11 AM-noon. Open April-October.
Book from Komiza (€30-50, 3-4 hour tour including cave + swimming stops) rather than Split (€80-120, mostly spent on the speedboat). Morning tours have calmer seas.
Europe's best beach. A hidden pebble cove accessed through a narrow gap between towering cliffs. Reach it by scrambling down a steep 30-minute rocky path (wear proper shoes) or take a water taxi from Komiza (~€15/person).
No facilities. Bring everything you need: water, food, sunscreen, reef shoes.
Guided tours (~€20) of the abandoned Cold War tunnels, submarine pens, and gun emplacements. The submarine tunnel near Vis town is the standout. Book through the tourist office.
Vis produces two indigenous wines: Vugava (white, found nowhere else) and Plavac Mali (red, the island's version of the Dalmatian staple). Family wineries like Lipanovic and Roki's offer tastings from €10-20.
Explore the stone harbor village, visit the Fishing Museum in the 16th-century fortress (€4), and eat the freshest seafood on the island.
Half-day guided tours (€40-60) reach sea caves and beaches inaccessible by road.
| Restaurant | Location | Specialty | Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pojoda | Vis town | Grilled fish, garden setting | €15-25 |
| Jastozera | Komiza | Lobster, squid, fortress setting | €15-70 |
| Roki's | Podspilje | Multi-course + wine tasting | €35 fixed |
| Vatrica | Vis town | Viska pogaca, seafood | €10-20 |
| Konoba Stoncica | East coast | Peka (octopus under iron bell) | €15-20/person |
| Konoba Barba | Komiza | Homemade pasta, daily catch | €12-18 |
Don't miss: Viska pogaca — anchovy, tomato, and onion flatbread unique to Vis. Available at any konoba for €5-8.
Tip: Fish is priced by weight. Always ask the price per kilo before ordering or you'll get a surprise.
| Category | Budget | Mid-Range | Splurge |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | €25-60 | €80-130 | €150-250 |
| Meals (per day) | €25-35 | €40-60 | €70-100 |
| Scooter rental | €30-40/day | €30-40/day | €50-70/day (car) |
| Blue Cave tour | €30-50 | €30-50 | €50 (private) |
| Wine tastings | €10-15 | €15-25 | €25-40 |
| Daily total | €120-200 | €195-305 | €345-510 |
Vis is extremely safe — a tiny island community with virtually no crime. The main safety considerations:
| English | Croatian |
|---|---|
| Hello | Bok |
| Thank you | Hvala |
| Beer please | Pivo molim |
| The bill please | Racun molim |
| Cheers | Zivjeli |
| Beautiful | Lijepo |
Most people in tourism speak English. But a "hvala" goes a long way.
Vis is for people who want an Adriatic island without the Adriatic island crowds. It has the best cave, arguably the best beach, and definitely the best wine in Croatia — all wrapped in a Cold War history that makes it unlike anywhere else. Three to five days is ideal. And if the two-and-a-half-hour ferry crossing feels like a commitment, that's the point. The journey filters out the people who just want another Instagrammable beach, and rewards the ones who want something real.
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