The Complete Stockholm Travel Guide: 14 Islands and Endless Surprises
Stockholm is the city that shouldn't work on paper. A capital spread across 14 islands where salt water meets fresh water, where a 17th-century warship sits in a museum because it sank on its maiden voyage, and where the world's first open-air museum shares an island with an ABBA exhibition. But it works. Beautifully.
Overview
Stockholm is Sweden's capital and largest city — about 1 million in the city proper, 2.4 million in the metro area. The city spans 14 islands connected by 57 bridges, with the medieval old town (Gamla Stan) at its heart. The Stockholm archipelago — 30,000 islands and skerries stretching into the Baltic — begins at the city's eastern edge.
Best Time to Visit
June to August: The golden season. 18+ hours of daylight. Outdoor café culture explodes. The archipelago opens up. Temperatures hit 20-25°C. Midsummer (late June) is a uniquely Swedish celebration.
December: Christmas markets, ice skating, and Lucia celebrations (December 13). Short days (6 hours of light) but atmospheric. Snow transforms Gamla Stan.
Avoid: November and March — gray, cold, and lacking either the summer light or the winter charm.
Getting There
By air: Arlanda Airport (ARN) is 40 km north. The Arlanda Express train takes 20 minutes (295 SEK — yes, it's expensive). The Flygbussarna airport bus takes 45 minutes (119 SEK). Uber/Bolt from the airport runs ~400-500 SEK.
Skavsta Airport (NYO) handles budget carriers. It's 100 km south — 80 minutes by bus (169 SEK).
Getting around: Buy an SL travel card. A 72-hour pass costs 330 SEK and covers metro, buses, trams, and commuter trains. Single tickets (39 SEK) via the SL app only — no cash on buses. The metro stations are art installations — T-Centralen (blue line) has cave paintings, Solna Centrum is bathed in red and green.
Where to Stay
Gamla Stan: Medieval charm, tourist prices. €120-250/night. Walkable to everything in the old town.
Södermalm: Hip, local, nightlife. €90-180/night. Best neighborhood for bars and vintage shopping.
Östermalm: Upscale, quiet, elegant. €150-300/night. Near Djurgården museums.
Norrmalm: Central, practical, near station. €100-200/night. Good transit connections.
What to Do
Must-Sees
Vasa Museum: A 17th-century warship that sank 1,300 meters into its maiden voyage in 1628. Salvaged 333 years later, 98% intact. It's the only preserved 17th-century ship in the world. Entry: 190 SEK. Open daily 10AM-5PM (8PM Wed). Allow 1.5-2 hours. The scale is breathtaking — 69 meters long, 700+ carved figures.
Gamla Stan: Stockholm's medieval old town. Cobblestone alleys, the Royal Palace (160 SEK for state apartments), and Mårten Trotzigs Gränd — the narrowest street in Stockholm at 90 cm wide. Stortorget (the main square) was the site of the 1520 Stockholm Bloodbath. Allow 2-3 hours.
ABBA The Museum: Interactive museum on Djurgården where you sing, dance, and perform with ABBA holograms. More fun than you'd expect regardless of your feelings about ABBA. Entry: 250 SEK. Book online — sells out in summer. Allow 1.5-2 hours.
Skansen Open-Air Museum: The world's oldest (1891). 150 historic buildings from across Sweden, plus a zoo with moose, brown bears, and wolverines. Entry: 220 SEK in summer. On Djurgården. Allow 3-4 hours.
Beyond the Basics
Fotografiska: World-class photography museum in a former customs house. Four rotating major exhibitions. Entry: 195 SEK. Open until 11PM Sun-Wed, 1AM Thu-Sat. The rooftop restaurant has excellent views. Allow 1.5 hours.
Södermalm (SoFo District): Stockholm's creative neighborhood south of Folkungagatan. Vintage shops, independent cafés, street art. Johan & Nyström for specialty coffee. Grandpa for vintage clothing. Best on weekday afternoons when it's not overrun.
Stockholm Archipelago: Take a Waxholmsbolaget ferry to the islands. Vaxholm (80 SEK, 30 min) is the closest and easiest. Sandhamn (2-3 hours) is remote and beautiful. Pack a picnic and swimsuit. Best May-September.
Food Guide
Swedish classics:
Köttbullar (meatballs): Not IKEA. Proper Swedish meatballs with cream sauce, lingonberries, and mashed potatoes. Try Meatballs for the People in Södermalm (mains 165-195 SEK)
Smörgåsbord: The traditional buffet spread of herring, salmon, meatballs, and cheese. Best at Pelikan or during holiday season
Toast Skagen: Shrimp and mayo on toast with dill and roe. A classic starter at most restaurants (95-130 SEK)
Kanelbulle: The sacred cinnamon bun. Vete-Katten (since 1928) or Café Pascal are the moves
Fika: Sweden's coffee-and-pastry ritual. Not optional. It happens around 10AM and 3PM. Order a kanelbulle with black coffee. Sit. Slow down. This is the Swedish operating system.
Budget
Category
Budget
Mid-Range
Accommodation
800-1200 SEK/night
1500-2500 SEK/night
Food
200-350 SEK/day
400-700 SEK/day
Transport
110 SEK/day (SL pass)
110 SEK/day
Attractions
200-400 SEK/day
Pass: 849 SEK/day
The Go City Stockholm Pass (from 849 SEK/1 day) covers 50+ attractions and hop-on-hop-off boats. Worth it if you're visiting 3+ paid attractions per day.
Safety
Stockholm is extremely safe. Almost no violent crime targeting tourists. The biggest practical hazards are icy sidewalks in winter (wear grip shoes) and the near-absence of darkness in summer (bring an eye mask). Petty theft is rare. Sweden is nearly cashless — cards accepted everywhere, many places don't accept cash at all.
Useful Phrases
Almost everyone speaks fluent English. But:
Tack (tahk) — Thank you
Hej (hey) — Hello
Skål (skohl) — Cheers
Ursäkta (oor-SHEK-tah) — Excuse me
Fika — You already know this one
Final Advice
Give Stockholm at least 3 nights. Day one for Gamla Stan and the Vasa Museum. Day two for Djurgården island (Skansen, ABBA, Fotografiska). Day three for Södermalm and a ferry trip. A fourth day for the archipelago makes it perfect.
The metro stations are an attraction in themselves — ride the blue line end to end and get off at stations with painted rock walls. The art installation at T-Centralen alone is worth a metro ticket.
And don't skip fika. It's not a snack break. It's how Sweden works.
