Your Khiva Questions Answered: 14 Essential Things to Know Before Visiting
Khiva is the most visually striking of Uzbekistan's three Silk Road cities. Bukhara is atmospheric. Samarkand is grand. But Khiva — with its perfectly preserved mud-brick walled city rising from the Kyzylkum Desert — looks like someone froze a medieval caravan stop in amber and forgot to unfreeze it.
A: Fly to Urgench Continue east to Samarkand for the Registan (UGC) from Tashkent — 1.5 hours, Uzbekistan Airways from $40 one-way. From Urgench, shared taxis to Khiva cost UZS 20,000-30,000 ($2) and take 30 minutes.
Alternatively, the overnight train from Bukhara to Urgench takes about 7 hours — you sleep through the desert and arrive in the morning. Shared taxis from Bukhara to Khiva take 6 hours across the desert. It's scenic (in a barren, Lawrence-of-Arabia way) but tiring.
The new Afrosiyob high-speed train extension to Khiva is planned but not yet operational as of 2026. When it opens, it'll change everything.
Q: How many days do I need?
A: Two days is ideal. One full day for the Itchan Kala walled city (it's smaller than you think — 600m x 400m — but packed with sites). A second day for revisiting favorites at different light, exploring the Dichan Kala outer city, and a half-day trip to the Kyzylkum Desert or Ayaz-Kala fortresses.
One day works if you're efficient, but you'll feel rushed.
Inside the Walled City
Q: What's the combined ticket and is it worth it?
A: The combined ticket (UZS 120,000, ~$10) is sold at the West Gate (Ota Darvoza) and covers entry to all major museums and sites inside Itchan Kala — the minarets, palaces, mosques, and exhibition halls. Without it, you'd pay UZS 15,000-30,000 per site individually, adding up to significantly more.
Yes, it's worth it. Buy it at the West Gate and then visit everything. Important: entry to the old city streets themselves is free. The ticket is only for the indoor exhibits.
Q: What's the deal with the fat, unfinished minaret?
A: Kalta Minor is Khiva's most recognizable landmark — a short, fat, turquoise-tiled minaret that looks like it was cut off at the knees. That's exactly what happened. Muhammad Amin Khan started building it in 1851, planning the tallest minaret in Central Asia. He died before completion. His successors apparently looked at the 29-metre stump and said: "That's fine."
The unfinished tower became Khiva's beloved icon. It's covered in vivid turquoise, blue, and white glazed tiles that remain some of the most photogenic surfaces in Uzbekistan. You can't climb it, but the West Gate provides the classic photo angle.
Q: Can you climb a minaret for views?
A: Yes — the Islam Khoja Minaret (57 metres, built 1908-10) has a steep internal staircase you can climb for 360-degree views over the walled city and the desert beyond. UZS 15,000 extra on top of the combined ticket. The climb is narrow and steep — not for the claustrophobic. Go at sunset when the mud-brick walls glow golden.
Q: What's the most impressive single building?
A: Tosh-Hovli Palace, the 19th-century palace of the Khivan khans. 163 rooms around multiple courtyards, with majolica tilework, carved wooden columns, and painted ceilings that are among the finest in Central Asia. The harem quarter and reception hall are the standout sections. Covered in the combined ticket. Allow 45 minutes.
The Juma Mosque (Friday Mosque) is a close second — 218 carved wooden columns supporting a hypostyle hall, some columns dating to the 10th century. Walking through feels like entering an ancient forest made of wood. Profoundly atmospheric.
Accommodation & Food
Q: Can you stay inside the walled city?
A: Yes, and you should. Several family-run guesthouses and boutique hotels operate inside Itchan Kala from $25-60/night. Staying inside means exploring before the day-trippers arrive at 8 AM and after they leave at 6 PM — the empty lanes at dawn and dusk are Khiva's best-kept experience.
Arkanchi Hotel and Meros B&B are reliable options. Book ahead in spring and autumn.
Q: What should I eat?
A: Khiva's food is Uzbek standard — plov, shashlik, somsa, manti — with Khorezm regional specialties. Try tuhum-barak (egg-filled dumplings in a butter-yogurt sauce) — it's a Khorezm dish you won't find elsewhere in Uzbekistan. Also shivit osh — green noodles made with dill, served with a meat sauce.
Most guesthouses serve dinner for $5-8 per person. Restaurant options inside the walls are limited but adequate. The tea houses near the Kalta Minor serve decent food with good views.
Practical
Q: How hot does it get?
A: July-August temperatures reach 42-45°C. The mud-brick walls absorb heat all day and radiate it at night. It's genuinely dangerous to sightsee during midday hours in summer. Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are infinitely more comfortable at 20-30°C.
If you must visit in summer, sightsee before 9 AM and after 6 PM. The thick-walled buildings are naturally cool inside.
Q: Is Khiva safe?
A: Extremely safe. Uzbekistan has very low crime rates, and Khiva — a small town — is even safer than the larger cities. Walking the walled city at night is perfectly fine. The only real danger is the summer heat.
Q: Cash or cards?
A: Bring cash. Some hotels accept cards, but most shops, restaurants, and the ticket office are cash-only. The nearest reliable ATM is in Urgench. Withdraw enough before arriving. USD cash is accepted as backup at hotels.
Q: How does Khiva compare to Bukhara?
A: Bukhara is larger, more lived-in, and has better food and nightlife (such as it is). Khiva is smaller, more visually concentrated, and feels more like stepping into a history book. Bukhara is atmospheric. Khiva is photogenic.
Most travelers visit both. The ideal route: Tashkent → Samarkand → Bukhara → Khiva (or reverse). Allow 2-3 days per city.
