San Sebastian (Donostia in Basque) is a city of 180,000 with more Michelin stars per capita than almost anywhere on Earth. Three three-star restaurants (Arzak, Akelarre, Martin Berasategui), seven one-stars, and a pintxos bar culture that makes the stars almost unnecessary. But it's not just about food. La Concha beach is consistently rated among Europe's best. Zurriola attracts serious surfers. And the Basque cultural identity gives everything a distinctive edge.
Overview
San Sebastian sits in a scallop-shaped bay on Spain's north coast, 20km from the French border. The old town (Parte Vieja) is packed between Monte Urgull and the port. The elegant 19th-century Centro stretches along La Concha beach. Gros, across the Urumea River, is the surfer/hipster neighbourhood around Zurriola beach.
Best Time to Visit
June-September for beach weather (20-26C, mostly dry). The San Sebastian International Film Festival (September) and Tamborrada drum festival (January 20) are highlights. Winter is mild (8-14C) but rainy — the pintxos bars don't care about weather.
Getting There
San Sebastian Airport (EAS) has limited flights. Better option: Bilbao Airport (BIO), 100km away, with far more connections. PESA and ALSA buses run every 30-60 minutes (EUR 12-17, 1.5 hours). Alternatively, RENFE trains from Madrid (5.5 hours) and Barcelona (5.5-6 hours).
Where to Stay
Parte Vieja (Old Town): Walking distance to pintxos bars and La Concha. Noisier at night. Hotels: Hotel Parma (EUR 100-180), pension-style options from EUR 60.
Centro/La Concha: Elegant, beachfront. Hotel Maria Cristina (luxury, EUR 300+), Hotel Niza (mid-range, EUR 120-200, beachfront).
Gros: Younger, more affordable. Near Zurriola surf beach. Hostels from EUR 25/night.
What to Do
La Concha Beach
The main event. A perfect crescent of golden sand sheltered by mountains on both sides. Calm, warm water (by Atlantic standards — 20-22C in summer). Free. No entry fee, no sunbed charge. Walk the 2km promenade from end to end.
Pintxos Crawl
See our detailed pintxos guide. Start at 7:30PM. Hit 8-10 bars. Eat 1-2 pintxos each. Budget EUR 50-70 for the evening. This is the single best dining experience in Spain.
Monte Igueldo
A funicular (EUR 4 return) climbs to the summit for panoramic bay views. There's a kitschy amusement park at the top that's been running since 1912. The views are genuinely spectacular — the entire bay, both beaches, the old town peninsula.
Zurriola Beach & Surfing
San Sebastian's surf beach. Consistent waves year-round, strongest in autumn/winter. Surf lessons from EUR 40 for 2 hours (Pukas Surf Eskola is the established school). Currents are stronger than La Concha — swim between flags.
Monte Urgull
The hill behind the old town, topped by the Castillo de la Mota (free). Walking trails through woodland, old military fortifications, and viewpoints over the harbour. 30-minute climb from the old town.
San Telmo Museoa
Basque culture and history museum in a converted 16th-century convent. EUR 7. Excellent collection covering Basque identity, art, and society. The modern wing has temporary exhibitions.
Food Deep Dive
Fine dining: Arzak (3 Michelin stars, EUR 200+ tasting menu, book 3 months ahead), Mugaritz (2 stars, experimental), Kokotxa (1 star, more accessible at EUR 80-120).
Lunch menus: Even starred restaurants offer lunch tasting menus at 40-50% less than dinner. Arzak's lunch is EUR 130 vs EUR 200+ at dinner.
Markets: Mercado de la Bretxa has fresh produce, cheese, and charcuterie. The Basque cider houses (sidrerias) outside the city offer cider-and-steak dinners for EUR 35-40.
Budget
Item
Cost
Hostel/night
EUR 25-40
Mid-range hotel/night
EUR 100-180
Pintxos crawl (evening)
EUR 50-70
Surf lesson (2hr)
EUR 40
Funicular Monte Igueldo
EUR 4
Day trip to Bilbao
EUR 12-17 (bus)
Day Trips
Bilbao (1.5 hours): Guggenheim Museum, Casco Viejo, excellent pintxos scene.
French Basque Country (30-40 min): Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Biarritz by bus (EUR 3, no border check).
Getaria (30 min): Coastal fishing village, Balenciaga museum, grilled turbot restaurants.
San Sebastian is a complete destination — beach, food, culture, surf, and mountain views — in a compact, walkable city. Three days is the minimum. A week is better.
