A Siem Reap Local's Guide: 11 Questions Answered by a Tuk-Tuk Driver of 12 Years
Sokha Chea has been driving tuk-tuks on the Angkor circuit since 2014. He estimates he's done the Small Circuit over 3,000 times. He speaks four languages (Khmer, English, French, and basic Japanese), knows every temple guard by name, and has strong opinions about which sunrise spot tourists should actually use. I spent four days with him and then interviewed him over dinner at his favorite restaurant in town.
What's the number one mistake tourists make at Angkor Wat?
They come for sunrise and leave by 8AM. That's crazy. You paid $37 for a day pass or $62 for three days — spend the time. After sunrise, most tourists leave for breakfast. Between 7:30 and 9AM, Angkor Wat is practically empty. That's when you explore the bas-relief galleries, climb to the upper level, and actually see the temple without 500 people in your photos.
Also, everyone goes to the north reflecting pool for sunrise. The south pool has fewer people and a better angle. I've been saying this for years.
Which temples should first-timers prioritize?
Day 1: Angkor Wat sunrise, then Angkor Thom (South Gate, Bayon, Baphuon, Terrace of the Elephants), then Ta Prohm in the afternoon.
Day 2: Banteay Srei in the morning (best light for the pink sandstone carvings), then Preah Khan (similar to Ta Prohm but fewer tourists), then smaller temples like Neak Pean and Ta Som.
Day 3: Second sunrise at Angkor Wat (south pool this time), then any temples you missed, then Tonle Sap floating village in the afternoon.
Is the 3-day pass worth it over the 1-day?
Absolutely. The 3-day pass costs $62 — you can use it on any 3 days within a 10-day window. The 1-day pass is $37. For just $25 more, you get two extra days and can avoid temple fatigue. Nobody should try to see Angkor in one day. You'll be exhausted, overwhelmed, and miss half of everything.
How much should a tuk-tuk cost for the day?
$15-20 USD for the Small Circuit (Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm). $25-30 for the Grand Circuit (adds outer temples). For Banteay Srei and remote temples, $30-35. If someone quotes you more than $35 for the Small Circuit, walk to the next driver.
A private car with AC costs $35-50/day. Worth it in April-May when temperatures exceed 35°C.
Book through your guesthouse — they work with trusted drivers and the price is fair.
What's the best way to handle the heat?
Start early. 5AM for sunrise. Do the heavy exploring from 6-11AM. Rest during midday heat (12-3PM). Go back for late afternoon light at 3:30-5:30PM.
Carry minimum 2 liters of water. Wear a hat. Sunscreen. And wear sturdy shoes — the temple stairs are steep and the stone gets hot.
I see tourists in flip-flops every day. They always regret it by noon.
What about the dress code?
Enforced at Angkor Wat's upper level. Shoulders and knees must be covered. They'll turn you away — I've seen it happen to tourists who had to go buy a sarong from a vendor (3,000-5,000 KHR / ~$0.75-1.25). Bring a lightweight scarf or shawl. It doubles as sun protection.
Where should tourists eat in Siem Reap?
Not Pub Street restaurants — they charge tourist prices. Walk two blocks in any direction and prices drop by half.
My favorites:
Psar Chaa (Old Market) area — local Khmer restaurants. Fish amok (traditional coconut curry) for $3-4.
Khmer Kitchen on The Lane — excellent loc lac (stir-fried beef with lime pepper sauce, $4).
Street BBQ stalls on Sivatha Road after 6PM — grilled meats, sticky rice, and papaya salad. Full meal under $3.
For the cheapest food, eat at the market stalls inside Psar Chaa. Noodle soups for 6,000-8,000 KHR ($1.50-2).
Is the $0.50 beer on Pub Street actually $0.50?
Yes. Draft Angkor or Cambodia beer for $0.50. It's a real thing and it's not watered down. The bars make their money on cocktails and food. The beer is a loss-leader to get you through the door. Enjoy it.
Tell me about the currency situation.
Everything in Siem Reap is priced in USD. ATMs give USD. But change under $1 comes in Cambodian Riel (4,000 KHR = $1). Don't reject the riel — you'll use it for street food and tuk-tuk tips.
Important: don't bring torn, worn, or marked US bills. Cambodians are very particular about bill condition. Banks and shops will reject damaged notes. Bring crisp bills from home.
Should tourists visit Tonle Sap Lake?
Yes, but go to Kampong Phluk, not Chong Kneas. Chong Kneas is 15 km from Siem Reap and very touristy — operators there can be pushy and the "floating school donation" is a well-known scam.
Kampong Phluk is further (35 km) but more authentic. The stilt houses are genuine, the community is real, and the boat tour through the flooded mangrove forest ($25-35 USD) is extraordinary. Best September-January when water is highest.
What's the one thing tourists should know but never ask about?
Landmines. Cambodia still has uncleared landmines from the Khmer Rouge era. In the main Angkor complex, everything is completely safe — it was cleared decades ago. But at remote temples like Koh Ker, Preah Vihear, and some parts of Beng Mealea, stay strictly on marked paths. Never walk into jungle undergrowth.
Also — and this is important — visit the Landmine Museum near Banteay Srei. It's run by a former child soldier who now clears mines. Entry is $5. It's a small museum but it's one of the most important things you'll see in Cambodia. This country's history is heavier than most tourists realize. For more Southeast Asian experiences, Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City are nearby.
Sokha's final advice: "Take your time. The temples waited 800 years for you. You can give them three days." For our personal journal, read four days among ancient stones. Timing your trip? Our cool season guide explains why November-February is best."
