A Siem Reap Local's Guide: 11 Questions Answered by a Tuk-Tuk Driver of 12 Years
Sokha Chea has been driving tuk-tuks on the Angkor circuit since 2014. By his own count, he's run the Small Circuit more than 3,000 times. He speaks four languages — Khmer, English, French, and basic Japanese — knows every temple guard by name, and holds firm opinions about which sunrise spot tourists should actually use. What follows is twelve years of his hard-won knowledge, distilled into the eleven questions worth asking before you go.
What's the number one mistake tourists make at Angkor Wat?
They come for sunrise and leave by 8AM — and that's the wasted opportunity. You've paid $37 for a day pass or $62 for three days, so spend the time you bought. After sunrise, most tourists peel off for breakfast. Between 7:30 and 9AM, Angkor Wat stands practically empty. That's the window to explore the bas-relief galleries, climb to the upper level, and see the temple without 500 strangers in your frame.
And while everyone crowds the north reflecting pool for sunrise, the south pool draws fewer people and a better angle. Sokha has been pointing this out for years.
Which temples should first-timers prioritize?
Day 1: Angkor Wat sunrise, then Angkor Thom (South Gate, Bayon, Baphuon, Terrace of the Elephants), then Ta Prohm in the afternoon.
Day 2: Banteay Srei in the morning (best light for the pink sandstone carvings), then Preah Khan (similar to Ta Prohm but fewer tourists), then smaller temples like Neak Pean and Ta Som.
Day 3: Second sunrise at Angkor Wat (south pool this time), then any temples you missed, then Tonle Sap floating village in the afternoon.
Is the 3-day pass worth it over the 1-day?
Absolutely. The 3-day pass costs $62 and works on any 3 days within a 10-day window. The 1-day pass is $37. For just $25 more, you get two extra days and you sidestep temple fatigue. Nobody should try to see Angkor in a single day — you'll end up exhausted, overwhelmed, and you'll miss half of everything worth seeing.
How much should a tuk-tuk cost for the day?
$15-20 USD for the Small Circuit (Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm). $25-30 for the Grand Circuit, which adds the outer temples. For Banteay Srei and the remote temples, $30-35. If a driver quotes you more than $35 for the Small Circuit, walk to the next one.
A private car with AC runs $35-50/day — worth it in April and May, when temperatures climb past 35°C.
Book through your guesthouse: they work with trusted drivers and the price stays fair.
What's the best way to handle the heat?
Start early. 5AM for sunrise. Do the heavy exploring from 6-11AM. Rest through the midday heat, 12-3PM. Head back for the late afternoon light, 3:30-5:30PM.
Carry a minimum of 2 liters of water. Wear a hat. Pack sunscreen. And wear sturdy shoes — the temple stairs are steep and the stone turns hot underfoot. Flip-flops are the one shortcut you'll wish you hadn't taken by noon.
What about the dress code?
Enforced at Angkor Wat's upper level: shoulders and knees must be covered, no exceptions. Turn up underdressed and you'll be turned away — and find yourself buying a sarong from a vendor (3,000-5,000 KHR / ~$0.75-1.25). Bring a lightweight scarf or shawl instead. It doubles as sun protection.
Where should tourists eat in Siem Reap?
Skip the Pub Street restaurants — they charge tourist prices. Walk two blocks in any direction and prices drop by half.
The local favorites:
Psar Chaa (Old Market) area — the local Khmer restaurants here serve fish amok (traditional coconut curry) for $3-4.
Khmer Kitchen on The Lane — excellent loc lac (stir-fried beef with lime pepper sauce, $4).
Street BBQ stalls on Sivatha Road after 6PM — grilled meats, sticky rice, and papaya salad. A full meal runs under $3.
For the cheapest food of all, eat at the market stalls inside Psar Chaa, where noodle soups go for 6,000-8,000 KHR ($1.50-2).
Is the $0.50 beer on Pub Street actually $0.50?
Yes. Draft Angkor or Cambodia beer for $0.50 — a real thing, and it's not watered down. The bars make their money on cocktails and food; the beer is a loss-leader to get you through the door. Enjoy it.
Tell me about the currency situation.
Everything in Siem Reap is priced in USD. ATMs dispense USD. But any change under $1 comes back in Cambodian Riel (4,000 KHR = $1) — don't refuse it, because you'll want it for street food and tuk-tuk tips.
One thing to know: don't bring torn, worn, or marked US bills. Cambodians are particular about bill condition, and banks and shops will reject damaged notes. Bring crisp bills from home.
Should tourists visit Tonle Sap Lake?
Yes — but go to Kampong Phluk, not Chong Kneas. Chong Kneas sits 15 km from Siem Reap and runs very touristy; operators there can be pushy, and the "floating school donation" is a well-known scam.
Kampong Phluk is farther out (35 km) and far more authentic. The stilt houses are genuine, the community is real, and the boat tour through the flooded mangrove forest ($25-35 USD) is extraordinary. Best from September to January, when the water runs highest.
What's the one thing tourists should know but never ask about?
Landmines. Cambodia still has uncleared landmines from the Khmer Rouge era. Inside the main Angkor complex, everything is completely safe — it was cleared decades ago. But at remote temples like Koh Ker, Preah Vihear, and parts of Beng Mealea, stay strictly on the marked paths and never step into the jungle undergrowth.
Worth your time, too: the Landmine Museum near Banteay Srei, run by a former child soldier who now clears mines. Entry is $5. It's small, but it's one of the most meaningful stops in Cambodia — a reminder that this country's history runs deeper than most visitors realize. For more Southeast Asian experiences, Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City are nearby.
Sokha's closing advice says it best: "Take your time. The temples waited 800 years for you. You can give them three days." For our personal journal, read four days among ancient stones. Timing your trip? Our cool season guide explains why November-February is best.
