10 Things to Do in Gothenburg That Prove Sweden's Second City Deserves First Billing
Stockholm gets the tourists. Gothenburg gets the love. Sweden's west coast port city of 580,000 has this laid-back, slightly quirky energy that feels more Portland than Scandinavia. The locals are friendlier (Stockholmers will reluctantly agree), the seafood is better (not debatable), and the fika culture — the sacred Swedish tradition of coffee and cake — hits differently here.
Here's what to do.
1. Eat the Giant Cinnamon Bun at Café Husaren
The Haga district is Gothenburg's oldest neighborhood — cobblestone streets, wooden houses, vintage shops. But the main attraction is Café Husaren's kanelbulle (cinnamon bun), which is the size of a dinner plate. Not a large plate. A dinner plate. It costs 55 SEK (~$5) and it's the single most instagrammed food item in the city for good reason.
Haga is free to explore. Allow 2 hours for wandering and at least one fika stop.
2. Ride the Helix Coaster at Liseberg
Scandinavia's largest amusement park sits right in the city center. Liseberg is genuinely world-class — the Helix coaster has won international awards, the gardens are beautiful, and the Christmas market (November-December) is legendary. Entry 130 SEK (~$12), rides extra or all-inclusive pass 490 SEK. Open April to December.
Allow 4-6 hours. Yes, really.
3. Take the Ferry to the Archipelago
Gothenburg's southern archipelago — Styrsö, Vrångö, Brännö — is car-free, reachable by public ferry (included in your Västtrafik transit pass, 115 SEK for 24 hours), and absurdly charming. Fishing villages, swimming rocks, cycling paths. The ferry from Saltholmen takes 20-40 minutes depending on the island.
Bring a picnic. Best June to August, but atmospheric year-round.
4. Buy Seafood at Feskekörka
An indoor fish market built in 1874 in a building designed to look like a Gothic church. Hence the name: Fish Church. Free to browse. Open Tue-Sat 10AM-6PM. The upstairs restaurant serves fresh seafood platters from 200 SEK. The shrimp sandwich (räksmörgås) is a Gothenburg institution. You haven't been to this city until you've eaten one.
5. Get the View from Skansen Kronan
A 17th-century fortress on a hill in Haga offering panoramic city views. Free to visit the grounds. 10-minute uphill walk from Haga. Best at sunset for photos of the city and harbor. Allow 1 hour including the walk. This is the spot locals know and tourists miss.
6. Explore Universeum on a Rainy Day
Seven-story science center with a real indoor rainforest (free-flying tropical birds!), shark aquarium, and space exhibition. Entry 295 SEK (~$28). Open daily 10AM-6PM. Rainy days are common in Gothenburg (170 per year on average), so having this in your pocket is smart.
7. Wander the Botanical Garden
One of Europe's largest: 16,000 species across 175 hectares. Free entry to outdoor gardens; greenhouses 20 SEK. The Japanese Glade and Rock Garden are standouts. Tram 1 or 2 from center, 3km. Allow 2-3 hours.
8. Do the Paddan Canal Boat Tour
A flat-bottomed boat tour through Gothenburg's canals and under 20 bridges (some requiring you to duck). 185 SEK, 50 minutes, multiple departures daily from Kungsportsplatsen. It's tourist-y. It's also the fastest way to understand the city's layout and maritime history.
9. Drink Your Way Through Andra Långgatan
Gothenburg's nightlife street. Pubs, craft beer bars, vinyl shops, and late-night food. Ölrepubliken has 30+ craft beers on tap. A beer runs 70-100 SEK ($7-10). Remember: Sweden only sells alcohol above 3.5% at Systembolaget stores (closed Sundays, limited hours Saturdays).
10. Visit Röda Sten Konsthall
Contemporary art center in a converted boiler house under the Älvsborg Bridge. Free to explore the building and surrounding area. Exhibition entry 60-100 SEK. The graffiti-covered exterior is worth the walk alone. The adjacent waterfront is perfect for a sunset stroll.
The Fika Rule
You must have at least two fikas per day. This is not optional. Budget 50-80 SEK per session. A cinnamon bun and a filter coffee at any konditori cafe is the correct order. Sweden essentially mandates mid-morning and mid-afternoon breaks for pastry consumption. It's possibly the finest cultural practice on Earth.
Practical Notes
Sweden is practically cashless. Many shops don't accept cash at all. Carry a Visa or Mastercard with contactless. ATMs exist but you may never need one.
The Västtrafik 24-hour pass (115 SEK) covers trams, buses, and archipelago ferries. The tram network is excellent — lines 9 and 11 hit most tourist spots.
Rain gear is non-negotiable. 170 rainy days per year. Pack a waterproof jacket regardless of season.
Gothenburg proves that a city doesn't need world-famous landmarks to be world-class. It just needs great seafood, giant pastries, and islands you can reach by public ferry. If you're touring Scandinavia, pair it with Stockholm or Copenhagen.
