What a Local Port Wine Guide Wants You to Know About Porto
Joao Ferreira moved to Porto from the Douro Valley at 18 to study oenology. Twenty-two years later, he runs wine tours, writes a column for a Portuguese food magazine, and knows every cobblestone between Ribeira and Foz do Douro. We met at his favorite spot in Porto — a tiny tasca in Cedofeita where a bifana (pork sandwich) costs 2.50 EUR and the wine comes from an unmarked bottle behind the bar.
Setting the Scene
Joao is sunburned, animated, and slightly intimidating until he smiles, which is constantly. He orders a bifana and a glass of vinho verde (3 EUR for both) and immediately starts talking about why tourists are ruining Livraria Lello.
Q: Let's start there. Is Livraria Lello worth the hype?
Joao: (sighs) The bookstore is beautiful. The staircase, the stained glass — yes, it's gorgeous. It was gorgeous before J.K. Rowling maybe visited it maybe didn't (she lived in Porto in the early 1990s, taught English here, and denies Lello inspired Hogwarts). Now it charges 8 EUR to enter, there's a queue that can reach an hour even with time-slot booking, and most people spend 15 minutes taking selfies and leave without buying a book.
If you love architecture and bookstores, go. Book at livrarialello.pt. The 8 EUR is redeemable against a book purchase, so buy something. But if you're short on time, the building is gorgeous from outside — walk past, appreciate it, and spend your hour somewhere better.
Q: What should tourists do instead?
Joao: Walk across the top deck of the Dom Luis I bridge. It's free, it takes 10 minutes, and the view of Ribeira on one side and Vila Nova de Gaia on the other is the single best view in Porto. At sunset, it's extraordinary. Everyone goes to the lower deck — take the upper one.
Then spend time in neighborhoods tourists skip. Cedofeita has the best independent shops and cafes. Foz do Douro, where the river meets the Atlantic, has incredible seafood restaurants and a lighthousethat most tourists never reach. The Jardins do Palacio de Cristal have the best panoramic view that doesn't require a climb.
Q: Talk to me about port wine. Where should someone who knows nothing go?
Joao: Cross to Vila Nova de Gaia — that's where the port lodges are. There are 50+ of them, which is overwhelming. Here's my honest ranking for visitors:
Graham's (15 EUR tasting): Best terrace in Porto, overlooking the whole city. The tawny ports are excellent. Self-guided with guided tasting at the end.
Taylor's (15 EUR): Most informative self-guided tour with audio. Beautiful gardens. Their LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) is my everyday port.
Sandeman (from 15 EUR): The most theatrical experience — guides in black capes. Good introduction for beginners.
Croft (from 12 EUR): Quieter, less crowded, and they have a lovely garden restaurant.
Skip the first lodge you see when you cross the bridge — they're often tourist traps charging premium prices for mediocre wine. Walk deeper into Gaia for the quality lodges.
The premium tastings (20-30 EUR) at Graham's or Taylor's are worth it if you want to understand the difference between ruby, tawny, and vintage ports. A 20-year tawny from either house will change how you think about dessert wine.
Q: And the Douro Valley — day trip or overnight?
Joao: The Douro Valley is the most beautiful wine region in the world. If you love wine regions, Portugal's capital Lisbon is another essential visit.. I'm biased — I grew up there — but the terraced vineyards carved into the hillsides above the river are UNESCO-listed for a reason.
Day trips from Porto (80-120 EUR with 2 quintas, tastings, lunch, and usually a river cruise) are fine for a first visit. But staying overnight in the valley changes the experience completely. A night at a quinta (wine estate) with dinner overlooking the vineyards and a morning mist rising from the river — that's the Douro.
Self-drive: 1.5 hours to Pinhao or Peso da Regua. The historic Douro rail line from Porto to Pocinho (3.5 hours, ~15 EUR) is one of Europe's most scenic train rides — the train follows the river through gorges and past vineyards.
Q: What's the francesinha situation?
Joao: (grins) The francesinha is not Portuguese cuisine. It's a Porto heart attack on a plate and I love it.
Layers of ham, sausage, steak, all covered in melted cheese and a spicy tomato-beer sauce, served with fries. It's 2,000+ calories. One is a full meal. Two would require medical attention.
Best versions: Cafe Santiago (12 EUR) — the classic, always packed. Bufete Fase (10 EUR) — locals' choice, less touristy. Side Cafe (11 EUR) — reliable. Don't order a francesinha at a random tourist restaurant — bad sauce ruins it.
Pair with a Super Bock beer, not wine. This is not a wine meal.
Q: What's overrated in Porto?
Joao: The Ribeira quay restaurants. They're beautiful — the UNESCO waterfront, colorful medieval buildings, boats on the river. But the food is tourist-priced and tourist-quality. A grilled fish that costs 18 EUR on the quay costs 10 EUR two blocks uphill. Walk up. Always walk up.
Cleria Tower is fine but the queue and the narrow stairs make it a frustrating experience in peak season. The view from the Dom Luis bridge upper deck is better and free.
Q: Where do locals actually eat?
Joao: We eat at tascas — tiny, family-run restaurants with handwritten menus and no English translation. A meal at a tasca: 8-12 EUR. Wine: 1.50-3 EUR a glass.
Specific places:
Taberna dos Mercadores on Rua dos Mercadores: tiny, excellent bacalhau (cod), you need to arrive at noon sharp or 7PM for a seat
A Cozinha do Manel in Cedofeita: traditional Porto food, the tripas a moda do Porto (tripe stew — Porto's signature dish) is the real deal, 9 EUR
O Gaveto in Matosinhos: the best seafood in the Porto area, worth the 20-minute bus ride. Grilled fish priced by the kilo, incredibly fresh
And for a special occasion: The Yeatman Hotel restaurant in Gaia. Two Michelin stars, a wine list of 1,300 Portuguese wines, and the best view in Porto from the terrace. Tasting menu around 160 EUR. It's worth it once.
Q: Budget tips?
Joao: Porto is one of Western Europe's best-value cities. A bifana (pork sandwich): 2-3 EUR. An espresso: 0.70-1 EUR. A glass of wine: 1.50-3 EUR. A full meal at a tasca: 8-12 EUR.
The Porto Card (13 EUR/1 day) includes unlimited transport and museum discounts. For transport alone, the Andante card (0.60 EUR card + 1.30-1.80 EUR per ride) covers the metro. Airport to center on Line E: 2.50 EUR. Uber is cheap — 5-8 EUR across the city.
Free things: Sao Bento station (the 20,000-tile azulejo masterpiece — just walk in), crossing the Dom Luis bridge, wandering Ribeira, the public gardens.
Q: Sao Joao festival — what should visitors know?
Joao: (eyes light up) Sao Joao on June 23-24 is Porto's soul. The entire city parties all night — literally, all night, until sunrise. There are bonfires, sardine grills on every street, paper lanterns floating into the sky, and the tradition of bopping strangers on the head with plastic hammers (it used to be leeks, which was worse).
It's completely free. It's the most authentic street festival in Europe. Book accommodation 2-3 months ahead because the city fills completely. If you can time your Porto trip for late June, do it.
Q: Your perfect day in Porto?
Joao: Wake up, espresso at a neighborhood cafe (0.80 EUR). Walk through the Bolhao market (reopened after renovation, gorgeous). Cross the Dom Luis bridge upper deck to Gaia. Port tasting at Graham's or Taylor's. Walk back across the lower deck. Lunch at a tasca — cod, rice, a glass of vinho verde. Afternoon at the Jardins do Palacio de Cristal (free, incredible views). Sunset from Miradouro da Vitoria. Francesinha for dinner at Cafe Santiago. A final glass of port on the Ribeira quay watching the lights reflect on the Douro.
Joao asked me to tell readers that if they buy port wine, they should bring it home in their suitcase rather than shipping — Portuguese post has been known to lose wine-shaped packages. "It's a small country," he said. "We know what's in those boxes."
