Your Milan Questions, Answered by Someone Who Actually Knows
I've been a travel consultant specializing in Italy for twelve years. Milan is the destination I get the most confused emails about. People don't know what to expect, how long to stay, or whether it's worth visiting at all. Here are the questions I answer most often, with the honest answers I give my clients.
Getting Oriented
Q: Is Milan worth visiting, or should I skip it for Florence and Venice?
Don't skip it. Milan is a different kind of Italian city — less postcard-pretty, more culturally rich. The Duomo is one of Europe's most impressive buildings. The Last Supper is here. La Scala is here. The aperitivo culture is the best food experience in Italy that isn't a sit-down meal. And Lake Como is one hour away by train.
That said, if you only have 7 days in Italy and are choosing between Milan, Florence, Rome, and Venice — Milan is the one I'd cut. But it pairs beautifully with Venice (2 hours by train) and Florence. But with 10+ days, it deserves 2-3.
Q: How many days do I need in Milan?
3 days is the sweet spot. Day 1: Duomo (cathedral + rooftop terraces, 16 EUR by elevator), Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (free), The Last Supper (if booked). Day 2: Brera district and Pinacoteca (15 EUR), Castello Sforzesco (courtyard free, museums 5 EUR), Navigli aperitivo. Day 3: Lake Como day trip (train 12 EUR to Varenna, ferry pass ~15 EUR).
With only 1 day, you'll see the highlights but won't understand the city.
Q: What's the best time of year to visit Milan?
April to June and September to October. Temperatures are mild (15-25°C), the outdoor cafe culture is in full swing, and the city is alive but not overwhelmed. Avoid July-August (32°C+, the city empties as Milanesi flee to the coast, many restaurants close). February and September are Fashion Week — exciting but hotels spike. April is Design Week (Salone del Mobile) — the best week to visit if you love design.
Getting There and Around
Q: Malpensa or Linate — which airport should I fly into?
Linate (LIN) is 7 km from the center and dramatically more convenient. Bus 73 to San Babila metro: 2.20 EUR, 25 minutes. Taxi: flat 30 EUR.
Malpensa (MXP) is 50 km out. Malpensa Express train to Cadorna: 13 EUR, 35 minutes. Taxi: flat 105 EUR. Most intercontinental flights use Malpensa.
If you have a choice (especially on European flights), Linate wins every time.
Q: Do I need a car in Milan?
Absolutely not. Milan has a ZTL (restricted traffic zone) in the center, parking is expensive and scarce, and the metro/tram system goes everywhere. Day pass: 7.60 EUR. The only time I'd rent a car is for a Lake Como/Chianti road trip starting from Milan.
Q: How do I get around the city?
The ATM metro has 5 lines and covers the major attractions. Trams are atmospheric (especially vintage tram Line 1E through the center). Walking between most central sights takes 10-20 minutes. Download the ATM Milano app for real-time schedules. Single ticket: 2.20 EUR (valid 90 minutes including one metro ride and unlimited trams/buses).
Food and Drink
Q: What should I eat in Milan?
Milanese cuisine is its own thing. The essentials:
Dish
Description
Typical Price
Risotto alla milanese
Saffron risotto, golden and creamy
14-18 EUR
Cotoletta alla milanese
Bone-in breaded veal cutlet, fried in butter
18-25 EUR
Ossobuco
Braised veal shank with gremolata
20-28 EUR
Panettone
Christmas sweet bread (available year-round)
8-38 EUR
Aperitivo buffet
Cocktail + unlimited food
8-12 EUR
Best traditional restaurants: Trattoria Masuelli San Marco (since 1921), Ratana (modern Milanese), and Trattoria del Nuovo Macello (best cotoletta).
Q: Where's the best aperitivo?
Navigli has the most options — the bars lining Naviglio Grande compete aggressively on buffet quality. Brera is more refined. My top picks:
Botanical Club (Tortona): Organic buffet, design crowd, 12 EUR
Bar Basso (Porta Venezia): Invented the Negroni Sbagliato, legendary, 10 EUR
Terrazza Aperol (Duomo): Overpriced (12 EUR Aperol Spritz) but the Duomo view is unbeatable
Golden rule: aperitivo runs 6-9PM. After 9PM, the buffet is usually cleared.
Q: Is Milan expensive for food?
It's the most expensive city in Italy for dining, but the aperitivo culture is a massive equalizer. A proper aperitivo (cocktail + buffet) costs 8-12 EUR and serves as dinner. A lunch menu (pranzo) at most restaurants is 10-15 EUR for primo + secondo. Street food (panzerotto from Luini near the Duomo, 3 EUR) is cheap and excellent.
Avoid eating within 200 meters of the Duomo unless you enjoy paying 18 EUR for mediocre pasta.
Sights and Activities
Q: How far in advance do I need to book The Last Supper?
2-3 months minimum. Tickets are released in batches on cenacolovinciano.org. Set a reminder for the release date. If you can't get tickets, authorized tour operators (Walks of Italy, Get Your Guide — select "skip the line" options) charge 35-50 EUR and include a guided component.
Never buy tickets from people outside the church. They're scams.
Q: Is the Duomo rooftop worth the extra cost?
Yes, unequivocally. Cathedral entry: 5 EUR. Rooftop by elevator: 16 EUR extra. The rooftop puts you among 3,400 statues and 135 spires with views to the Alps. It's one of the most dramatic rooftop experiences in Europe. Go in late afternoon for the best light — the Candoglia marble turns pink at sunset.
Stairs are 10 EUR if you want the exercise (it's a significant climb).
Q: What about La Scala?
Even if you don't attend a performance, the La Scala Museum (12 EUR, 9:30AM-5:30PM) lets you peek into the theater from a box seat. If you want to see a performance, the opera season runs December to July. Tickets range from 30 EUR (gallery) to 250+ EUR (box seats). Book at teatroallascala.org months ahead for major shows.
Pro tip: under-26 last-minute tickets are sometimes available at a discount. Check the box office on performance day.
Q: Is the Lake Como day trip realistic from Milan?
Absolutely. Train from Milano Centrale to Varenna: 1 hour, 12 EUR. Ferry between Varenna, Bellagio, and Menaggio: day pass ~15 EUR. Leave Milan at 8AM, arrive Varenna 9AM, ferry to Bellagio for lunch, visit Villa del Balbianello (10 EUR, closed Mon/Wed), last train back around 9-10PM.
Total day trip cost: ~40-50 EUR including food. It's one of the best day trips in all of Italy.
Practical Matters
Q: What should I pack for Milan?
Milan is more fashion-conscious than other Italian cities. You won't be turned away from places in jeans and sneakers, but you'll feel more comfortable with:
Smart-casual shoes (not flip-flops)
A blazer or nice jacket for evening aperitivo/dinner
Layers (Milan weather shifts fast)
An umbrella (rain is common spring and fall)
Cash: 50-100 EUR (some bacari and markets are cash-only)
Q: Is Milan safe?
Generally yes. The two main risks: pickpockets around the Duomo and Milano Centrale station, and the bracelet/birdseed scam artists in Piazza del Duomo. Keep valuables in front zippered pockets, say "no" firmly to anyone approaching you with objects, and you'll be fine. The city is safe at night in central areas.
Quick Reference
Need
Details
Airport transfer (Malpensa)
Malpensa Express: 13 EUR, 35 min to Cadorna
Airport transfer (Linate)
Bus 73: 2.20 EUR, 25 min to San Babila
Metro day pass
7.60 EUR (covers metro, tram, bus)
Last Supper tickets
17 EUR (book 2-3 months ahead at cenacolovinciano.org)
Duomo + rooftop
21 EUR total (cathedral 5 + elevator 16)
Aperitivo budget
8-12 EUR per cocktail + buffet
Emergency
112 (EU-wide)
Coffee at the bar
1-1.50 EUR (espresso, standing)
Milan rewards the prepared traveler. Check our 19 tourist mistakes guide for more tips. Book your Last Supper, learn the aperitivo rhythm, explore beyond the Duomo triangle, and give the city three days. It'll surprise you.
