Astana
Photo: Viktor Hesse / Unsplash
Key Facts
Best Time to Visit
June to September (20-30°C, pleasant). Astana is the world's second-coldest capital — winters drop to -30°C or colder
Language
Kazakh, Russian widely spoken
Currency
Kazakhstani Tenge (KZT)
Time Zone
ALMT (UTC+5, unified since 2024)
Airport
Nursultan Nazarbayev International Airport (NQZ), 17km S of city center
Population
1.4 million (city proper)
Climate
Extreme continental steppe, -30°C winters with blizzards, 30°C+ summers, very dry
Safety Rating
Very Safe — modern city with low crime, well-policed
Top Highlights
Bayterek Tower
Astana's 97m symbol — a tower holding a golden orb representing a mythical bird's egg in a poplar tree. The observation deck (entry: 1,500 KZT / ~$3) offers 360-degree steppe views. At the top, place your hand in the gold handprint of President Nazarbayev and make a wish (yes, really). Open 10AM-9PM. The tower anchors the Nurzhol Boulevard, Astana's central promenade of futuristic government buildings. Allow 1 hour.
Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center
A 150m-tall transparent tent designed by Norman Foster, housing a shopping mall, water park with sand imported from the Maldives, food courts, and a monorail. Free to enter (activities inside priced separately). The Skybeach indoor tropical waterpark (5,000 KZT / ~$10) is surreal — palm trees and warm sand while it's -30°C outside. Open 10AM-10PM daily. One of the world's most distinctive buildings. Allow 2-3 hours.
Palace of Peace and Reconciliation
A 77m glass pyramid by Norman Foster housing a 1,500-seat opera hall, a multi-faith center, and exhibitions on world religions. Entry: 2,000 KZT (~$4) for guided tour. Open 10AM-6PM (closed Mondays). The stained glass apex by Brian Clarke is spectacular. The building hosts the triennial Congress of Leaders of World and Traditional Religions. The pyramid shape amid the flat steppe is otherworldly. Allow 1-1.5 hours.
Hazrat Sultan Mosque
Central Asia's largest mosque with capacity for 10,000 worshippers, opened in 2012. The white and gold interior is breathtaking, with elaborate Islamic geometric patterns and a 51m dome. Free entry. Open 9AM-9PM (non-prayer times). Women must cover head and arms (scarves provided at entrance). Shoes off. Non-Muslims welcome. The mosque is particularly beautiful at dusk when illuminated. Allow 45 minutes.
National Museum of Kazakhstan
A massive modern museum covering Kazakh history from the Golden Man (Saka warrior's golden armor, 4th century BC) to space exploration (Kazakhstan hosts the Baikonur Cosmodrome). Entry: 1,500 KZT (~$3). Open 10AM-6PM (closed Mondays). Four floors of exhibits including yurt reconstructions, Soviet-era art, and the stunning Golden Man replica in the central hall. Allow 2-3 hours. English audio guide available (500 KZT).
EXPO Grounds & Nur Alem Sphere
The site of EXPO 2017 (Future Energy theme), now partly repurposed. The Nur Alem sphere (80m diameter, the world's largest spherical building) houses a science and energy museum (3,000 KZT / ~$6). The surrounding pavilions host exhibitions and events. The architecture is aggressively futuristic. Located on the left bank, 15 minutes by taxi from the center. Allow 2-3 hours if you enjoy modern architecture.
Planned Itinerary
7-Day Astana Itinerary
Arrival in Astana
Arrive at Nursultan Nazarbayev International (NQZ), 17km south. Yandex Go taxi (1,000-2,500 KZT). Hotel on the left bank near Bayterek Tower.
Airport transfer(30 minutes)
Yandex Go: 2,000-3,500 KZT (~$4-7)
Bayterek Tower at sunset(1 hour)
1,500 KZT. 97m symbol of Astana. Golden orb observation deck with steppe views. Place hand in Nazarbayev's gold handprint to make a wish
Dinner at Kaganat restaurant(1 hour)
Kazakh cuisine. Beshbarmak (boiled meat on flat noodles, 3,000-5,000 KZT) — the national dish. Kurt (dried yogurt balls) and kumis (fermented mare's milk) for the adventurous
Nurzhol Boulevard & Left Bank Architecture
Astana's futuristic government district — Norman Foster buildings and the steppe-meets-space-age skyline.
Walk Nurzhol Boulevard(2 hours)
The central promenade connecting Bayterek to Khan Shatyr. Government buildings by international architects line both sides. The scale is intentionally overwhelming — this is a capital designed to impress
Palace of Peace and Reconciliation(1.5 hours)
2,000 KZT guided tour. Norman Foster's 77m glass pyramid. Opera hall, multi-faith center, Brian Clarke stained glass apex. The shape on the flat steppe is otherworldly
Hazrat Sultan Mosque(45 minutes)
Free. Central Asia's largest mosque. White and gold interior, 51m dome. Non-Muslims welcome outside prayer times. Scarves provided
Lunch at Khan Shatyr food court(1 hour)
Norman Foster's 150m transparent tent. The Skybeach indoor tropical waterpark (5,000 KZT) has Maldives sand. Food court: 2,000-4,000 KZT for a meal
National Museum of Kazakhstan(2 hours)
1,500 KZT. Golden Man (4th century BC Saka warrior armor), space exploration, yurt reconstructions. Audio guide 500 KZT. The Golden Man replica in the central hall is the icon of Kazakh identity
EXPO & Old Town
The EXPO 2017 site and the original pre-capital right bank with its Soviet-era character.
EXPO grounds & Nur Alem Sphere(2.5 hours)
3,000 KZT. World's largest spherical building (80m). Science and energy museum inside. The surrounding pavilions have rotating exhibitions
Central Market (Zelyony Bazaar equivalent)(1.5 hours)
The old-town market with meat, dairy, and dried fruit sections. More authentic than left-bank malls. Try horse meat sausage (kazy, 800 KZT per 100g) if you are feeling bold
Lunch at a local ashkhana(1 hour)
Cafeteria-style. Lagman (noodle soup, 1,200 KZT), manty (steamed dumplings, 1,000 KZT). Working-class Astana
Yevraziya Cultural Center or Cathedral walk(1 hour)
The right bank has Orthodox churches and Soviet apartment blocks — a different city from the left bank's marble and glass
Day Trip to Borovoye (Burabay)
Kazakhstan's 'little Switzerland' — a lake and forest resort area 250km north. A complete contrast to the flat steppe.
Drive to Borovoye(3 hours)
Hire car (25,000-35,000 KZT round trip) or join a tour
Burabay National Park(4 hours)
Entry: 550 KZT. Pine forests, granite rock formations, and crystal-clear lakes surrounded by steppe. Hike to Bolectau Peak (1 hour) for panoramic views. Rent a catamaran on Borovoye Lake (3,000 KZT/hour). The rock formation called Zhumbaktas (Sphinx Rock) rises from the water like a face in profile
Lunch at a lakeside restaurant(1 hour)
Fresh fish from the lake, shashlik, and wild berry kompot (fruit drink). 3,000-5,000 KZT
Kazakh Culture & Cuisine
A day focused on traditional Kazakh life, food, and arts.
Shabyt Palace of Creativity(1.5 hours)
Free. Kazakh National University of Arts campus — exhibitions of student work, traditional instruments, and contemporary Kazakh art. The building itself is architecturally interesting
Visit an ethno-village (Kazakh aul recreation)(2 hours)
Several recreated Kazakh aul (village) sites outside Astana offer yurt stays, horse milking demonstrations, eagle hunting displays, and traditional game demonstrations (kokpar — a horseback sport played with a goat carcass). Tour operators arrange: 15,000-25,000 KZT
Lunch — full beshbarmak feast(1.5 hours)
At a traditional restaurant, the full beshbarmak ceremony: the guest of honor receives the sheep's head and distributes parts. The ears go to children (listen well), the tongue to the eloquent, the eyes to the far-sighted. A deeply meaningful ritual. 5,000-8,000 KZT
Dinner and nightlife at Loft Bar or Chocolate Bar(1.5 hours)
Astana's nightlife scene is small but growing. Cocktails 2,000-4,000 KZT
Free Day
Choose your adventure.
Option A: Astana Opera (if performance scheduled)(2.5 hours)
One of Central Asia's finest opera and ballet companies. The building is spectacular. Tickets from 2,000 KZT
Option B: Left bank architecture photography walk(3 hours)
The buildings are best photographed in afternoon light when the glass and steel catch the steppe sun. Underground passages connect many buildings — explore these in winter
Option C: Rest and shopping at Khan Shatyr(3 hours)
The world's largest tent has decent shopping and the surreal indoor beach
Farewell dinner at Line Brew or Astana Nury(1.5 hours)
Astana Nury serves Kazakh fine dining with a modern twist. Tasting menus from 15,000 KZT. A surprisingly sophisticated end to a visit
Departure Day
Final morning and airport.
Last Bayterek view(30 minutes)
If time allows, one final look from the observation deck. The steppe stretching in every direction reminds you how improbable this city is
Airport transfer(30 minutes)
Yandex Go: 2,000-3,500 KZT. Allow 2.5 hours before international flights
14-Day Astana Itinerary
Arrival
Arrive NQZ. Yandex Go (2-3.5k KZT). Hotel on left bank.
Bayterek at sunset(1 hour)
1,500 KZT
Beshbarmak dinner(1 hour)
3-5k KZT
Left Bank Architecture
Foster buildings and futuristic boulevard.
Palace of Peace(1.5 hours)
2,000 KZT
Hazrat Sultan Mosque(45 min)
Free
National Museum(2 hours)
1,500 KZT. Golden Man
EXPO & Old Town
Nur Alem sphere and right bank.
EXPO/Nur Alem(2.5 hours)
3,000 KZT
Borovoye Day Trip
'Little Switzerland' — lakes and forests.
Burabay National Park(4 hours)
550 KZT. Hiking, catamarans, Sphinx Rock
Kazakh Culture
Yurts, horses, beshbarmak feast.
Ethno-village(2 hours)
15-25k KZT
Free Day
Opera, photography, or rest.
Rest Day
Mid-trip recovery.
Nur-Astana Mosque(45 min)
Free. Astana's first major mosque (2005). Blue and gold interior. Less crowded than Hazrat Sultan
Train to Almaty — Day 1
Begin a 2-day excursion to Kazakhstan's largest and most vibrant city.
Morning flight to Almaty(1.5 hours)
$40-80. Flights every few hours. Or overnight Talgo train (12 hours, 8-15k KZT)
Walk Panfilov Park and Zenkov Cathedral(1.5 hours)
One of the world's tallest wooden buildings (54m), built without nails. Surrounded by a park with the WWII memorial and eternal flame. Free
Green Bazaar (Zelyony Bazaar)(1.5 hours)
Almaty's legendary market. Horse meat, fermented dairy, dried fruit mountains, Kazakh cheese. More authentic than anything in Astana
Dinner on Dostyk Avenue(1 hour)
Almaty's main boulevard. Try Navat restaurant for upscale Central Asian (4-8k KZT mains)
Almaty Day 2 — Mountains
The Tien Shan mountains rise directly from Almaty's southern edge. Cable cars, glaciers, and alpine lakes.
Medeu skating rink and Shymbulak ski resort(3 hours)
Bus from center to Medeu (200 KZT). Cable car to Shymbulak (3,500 KZT round trip). At 3,200m, the mountain views over the city and steppe beyond are extraordinary. Hiking trails in summer, skiing in winter. The Talgar Pass viewpoint (3,200m) is the highlight
Big Almaty Lake(2 hours)
A turquoise reservoir at 2,510m surrounded by mountains. 15km from the ski resort (taxi 2,000 KZT or hike 2 hours). The color is intense and changes with the light
Recovery & Local Astana
Rest after Almaty trip and explore Astana's everyday life.
Astana Botanical Garden(1.5 hours)
1,000 KZT. An impressive greenhouse complex considering the extreme climate. Tropical plants in -30°C winters
Lunch at a business lunch restaurant(1 hour)
Kazakh office workers eat at set-lunch restaurants (biznes lanch). A three-course meal for 2,000-3,000 KZT. Soup, main, and tea — the most authentic local dining experience in Astana
Day Trip to Turkestan (if ambitious)
A long but rewarding day trip (fly) to Kazakhstan's most sacred site — the mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi.
Morning flight to Turkestan(2 hours)
SCAT Airlines. ~15,000 KZT. The Turkestan airport is new and close to the old city
Khoja Ahmed Yasawi Mausoleum(2 hours)
UNESCO World Heritage. Begun by Timur in 1389, never finished — the massive unfinished entrance portal shows the ambition. Inside: a 2-ton bronze cauldron, and the tomb of Yasawi (12th-century Sufi mystic). Entry: 1,500 KZT. The most important pilgrimage site in Central Asia for Turkic Muslims
Turkestan Old City walk(1.5 hours)
The restored old quarter around the mausoleum has a caravanserai museum, hammam, and traditional crafts. New development has transformed Turkestan from a dusty town to a showcase
Steppe Drive & Nomadic Life
Drive into the open steppe outside Astana for a taste of the landscape that defines Kazakhstan.
Drive into the steppe(1.5 hours)
Any direction — the steppe is everywhere. Your driver heads toward a herding community
Nomadic family visit(2 hours)
Arranged through your hotel or tour operator. Visit a family tending sheep and horses on the steppe. Share kumis (fermented mare's milk), ride a horse if offered. The horizon-to-horizon grassland is the defining Central Asian landscape — Kazakhstan is 2.7 million sq km and most of it looks like this
Steppe lunch — outdoor cookout(1 hour)
Grilled lamb over open fire with fresh bread. The simplest and most delicious meal of the trip
Free Day
Final explorations.
Farewell dinner(1.5 hours)
Full Kazakh spread: beshbarmak, kazy, baursak (fried dough), kumis, and strong Kazakh tea. 8-12k KZT per person
Departure Day
Final morning.
21-Day Astana Itinerary
Arrival
Arrive NQZ. Hotel on left bank.
Left Bank
Foster buildings, mosque, museum.
EXPO & Old Town
Nur Alem and right bank.
Borovoye
Lakes and forests.
Kazakh Culture
Ethno-village and feast.
Free Day
Opera or rest.
Rest
Mid-week rest.
Fly to Almaty Day 1
Kazakhstan's largest city.
Almaty Day 2 — Mountains
Tien Shan cable cars and alpine lake.
Medeu & Shymbulak(3 hours)
3,500 KZT cable car. 3,200m views
Big Almaty Lake(2 hours)
Turquoise at 2,510m
Almaty Day 3 — Culture
Museums and Almaty's vibrant food scene.
Central State Museum(1.5 hours)
500 KZT. Golden Man original, yurt reconstruction, Kazakh history
Kok Tobe hill(1.5 hours)
Cable car (2,500 KZT round trip) to the hilltop park. Best city panorama. The Beatles statue and mini-zoo are quirky
Almaty food tour(3 hours)
Self-guided: start with beshbarmak at Zhety Kazyna, shashlik at a Georgian restaurant on Tole Bi Street, and finish with Korean food in the Korean quarter (Almaty has a large Korean community). Each stop under 3,000 KZT
Recovery
Rest after Almaty.
Turkestan Day Trip
Kazakhstan's holiest site.
Yasawi Mausoleum(2 hours)
UNESCO. Timur's masterpiece
Steppe Drive
Open steppe and nomadic family.
Nomadic visit(2 hours)
Kumis, horse riding, steppe horizon
Rest
Second rest day.
Day Trip to Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve
A UNESCO World Heritage wetland 130km SW — home to the world's northernmost flamingo colony.
Birdwatching & wetland walk(4 hours)
Entry: 800 KZT. Over 350 bird species. The flamingo colony (May-September) is the star — tens of thousands of pink flamingos on the steppe are surreal. Bring binoculars. The visitor center has English exhibits
Astana Art & Design
Contemporary Kazakh art and design scene.
National Art Gallery (Saryarka)(1.5 hours)
1,000 KZT. Kazakh and Russian art, plus contemporary Central Asian exhibitions
TSE Art Destination(1 hour)
Free. Contemporary gallery space in the left bank with rotating exhibitions and artist talks
Walk the Ishim River embankment(1.5 hours)
The river bisecting Astana has a pleasant walking and cycling path. The bridge designs are architectural statements in themselves
Dinner at Dei Fratelli(1 hour)
Italian in Astana — surprisingly good. 4-6k KZT mains. Sometimes you need a pizza after two weeks of beshbarmak
Second Borovoye Visit or Karkaralinsk
Return to the lakes or explore a different mountain area.
Option A: Borovoye overnight(Full day)
Stay overnight at a lakeside resort (15-30k KZT/night). Swimming, hiking, kayaking. The overnight stay allows for sunrise on the lake
Option B: Karkaralinsk National Park(Full day)
250km SE. Less developed than Borovoye — rocky mountains rising from the steppe with pine forests and ancient petroglyphs. A more authentic wilderness experience
Return & Rest
Return from overnight if applicable. Rest.
Local Life & Hidden Astana
Explore Astana beyond the monuments.
Walk through residential areas(1.5 hours)
The neighborhoods between old and new Astana show the city's rapid transformation. Construction cranes and traditional houses side by side
Astana movie theatre(2 hours)
Catch a Kazakh or Russian film at Kinopark IMAX. An unexpected cultural window. Popcorn and comfortable seats after weeks of touring
Free Day
Final day.
Farewell dinner(1.5 hours)
Full Kazakh feast. Beshbarmak, kazy, baursak, kumis, strong tea
Departure Day
Final morning.
Travel Tips
Visa & Entry
Visa-Free for 76 Countries
Citizens of 76 countries (including US, UK, EU, Canada, Australia, Japan, South Korea) can enter Kazakhstan visa-free for up to 30 days. No registration required for stays under 30 days. Just arrive with a valid passport. For longer stays, an e-visa is available. Kazakhstan has the most liberal visa regime in Central Asia.
transport
The City Is Designed for Cars, Not Walking
Astana's new left bank (where all the futuristic buildings are) has enormous distances between landmarks on wide boulevards with brutal wind exposure. Use Yandex Go taxis (1,000-2,500 KZT / ~$2-5 for most rides) or the city bus system (150 KZT). Walking from Bayterek to Khan Shatyr (3km) is doable in summer but miserable in winter when wind chill hits -40°C. The underground passages connecting buildings are a lifesaver in winter.
High-Speed Train to Almaty
The Talgo high-speed train connects Astana to Almaty (Kazakhstan's largest and more vibrant city) in about 12 hours (overnight sleeper, 8,000-15,000 KZT / ~$16-30). Flights take 1.5 hours and cost $40-80. Almaty has mountains, bazaars, and a completely different vibe — worth combining with an Astana visit if you have time. Book trains on railways.kz.
Budget
Affordable but Pricier Than Other Central Asian Capitals
Astana is Kazakhstan's most expensive city. A restaurant meal costs 3,000-8,000 KZT (~$6-16). Budget hotels: $25-40/night. Mid-range: $60-100. Taxis are cheap. A beshbarmak (national dish — boiled meat on flat noodles) at a local restaurant costs 3,000-5,000 KZT. Supermarkets are well-stocked and reasonable. Cards (Visa/Mastercard) are widely accepted throughout the city.
Local Customs
Kazakh Hospitality and Kumis
If invited to a Kazakh home, you will be offered kumis (fermented mare's milk) or shubat (fermented camel's milk). Both are sour, slightly alcoholic, and an acquired taste — but refusing is impolite. Take at least a sip. At formal meals, the guest of honor is served the sheep's head (beshbarmak style) and expected to distribute parts of it. Tea is constant — always accept the first cup.
Safety
Winter Cold Is Genuinely Dangerous
If visiting November to March, pack serious cold-weather gear: down jacket, thermal base layers, insulated boots, wool hat covering ears, and gloves. Exposed skin gets frostbitten in minutes at -30°C with wind. Many tourists underestimate how cold Astana gets. The wind on the steppe is relentless. Hotels, malls, and restaurants are well-heated — the danger is moving between them.
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