Cinque Terre

Train from Pisa/Genoa airport to La Spezia(1-1.5 hours)

Trenitalia regional trains run every 30-60 min. Buy tickets at the airport station machines, €5-10 depending on origin

Check-in and freshen up at hotel in La Spezia(1 hour)

Stay near the central station for easy access to Cinque Terre trains. Hotels from €70/night — try Hotel Firenze e Continentale or CDH Hotel La Spezia

Evening stroll along La Spezia waterfront(1 hour)

Walk the Passeggiata Morin promenade along the harbor. Stop for a gelato at Gelateria Artigianale on Via del Prione

Dinner at Osteria della Corte in La Spezia(1.5 hours)

Try the trofie al pesto — Liguria's signature pasta. Mains €10-16. Book ahead as it's small and popular with locals

Purchase Cinque Terre Card at La Spezia station(15 minutes)

The €33 card covers unlimited trains between villages plus trail access. Available at ticket offices or machines starting at 6:30AM

Explore Riomaggiore village(2 hours)

Walk down the main street (Via Colombo) to the tiny pebble beach. Climb to the castle ruins for panoramic views. Check the Via dell'Amore status at the park office — sections may be reopened

Lunch at Dau Cila in Riomaggiore(1 hour)

Perched right above the harbor with outdoor tables over the water. Fresh seafood pasta from €12. Try the fritto misto di mare (€14)

Hike from Riomaggiore to Manarola via SVA trail(1.5 hours)

If the direct trail is closed, take the alternate path via Volastra through terraced vineyards. Moderate difficulty, bring water and proper hiking shoes

Sunset aperitivo at Nessun Dorma in Manarola(1.5 hours)

The most famous terrace in Cinque Terre — arrive by 5PM to get a spot. Aperol spritz €8, bruschetta plates €6-10. The view of Manarola's colorful houses against the sunset is unbeatable

Train to Corniglia and climb the Lardarina(45 minutes)

382 steps from the station to the village perched 100m above. Shuttle bus available if you prefer (runs every 20 min, included in Cinque Terre Card). The village is the quietest of the five

Explore Corniglia village(1 hour)

Walk the narrow lanes to the Belvedere di Santa Maria viewpoint. Try the local honey at Alberto's shop on Via Fieschi. Pick up focaccia al pesto from the bakery for a trail snack

Hike Corniglia to Vernazza trail(1.5 hours)

The most dramatic section of the Sentiero Azzurro — 3.5 km with vine-covered terraces and jaw-dropping coastal views. Moderate difficulty with some steep sections. Requires Cinque Terre Card

Swim at Vernazza harbor beach(1 hour)

Cool off at the small sandy beach or swim off the rocks beside the harbor. The water is crystal clear and deep enough for jumping from the lower rocks

Climb Doria Castle in Vernazza(30 minutes)

Entry €2. The 11th-century tower gives the best elevated view of Vernazza's harbor and the coastline. Open until sunset

Dinner at Gambero Rosso in Vernazza(1.5 hours)

Terrace tables overlooking the harbor. Try the spaghetti allo scoglio (seafood pasta, €16) or the catch of the day. Reservations essential in summer

Morning at Fegina Beach(3 hours)

Sun lounger and umbrella rental ~€25/day on the new town side. Arrive by 9:30AM for a good spot. The free public section is at the far east end near the tunnel

Visit the Giant (Il Gigante) statue(15 minutes)

A 14m-tall concrete statue of Neptune at the east end of Fegina Beach, partially destroyed by WWII bombing. Free to view from the beach

Lunch at Il Frantoio in Monterosso old town(1 hour)

Through the tunnel to the old town. Legendary focaccia — try the focaccia con formaggio (cheese) or the one with pesto. About €3-5 for a filling portion

Explore Monterosso old town and Capuchin monastery(1.5 hours)

Walk up to the 17th-century Capuchin monastery and Church of San Francesco with its Van Dyck painting. The terrace has wonderful sea views. Free entry

Dinner at L'Ancora della Tortuga in Monterosso(1.5 hours)

Perched on the rocks between old and new town. Splurge-worthy seafood — their crudo platter (€18) and whole grilled branzino (€22) are exceptional. Book ahead

Pesto-making class with Cooking with Claudia(2.5 hours)

In Riomaggiore. Learn to make pesto genovese with mortar and pestle, trofie pasta from scratch, and focaccia. €55/person, includes lunch with wine. Book at least a week ahead in summer at cookingwithclaudia.com

Afternoon boat tour along the coast(2 hours)

Depart from Riomaggiore harbor. Shared boats run 2-3PM for €20-25/person. See all five villages from the water, with swimming stops at hidden coves. The sea caves near Vernazza are a highlight

Free time to revisit a favorite village(1.5 hours)

Take the train to whichever village you liked best and explore it at a slower pace. The late afternoon light is beautiful for photography

Farewell dinner in La Spezia at Da Dino(1.5 hours)

A local favorite on Via da Passano. Traditional Ligurian seafood — try the muscoli ripieni (stuffed mussels, €9) and the tegame of anchovies (€11)

Bus from La Spezia to Portovenere(30 minutes)

ATC bus from Via Garibaldi runs every 30 min, €3.50 each way. Alternatively, the ferry is more scenic (€14 round trip, seasonal). The winding road hugs the coastline

Explore Portovenere old town(2 hours)

Walk the colorful Via Cappellini through the medieval caruggi (narrow lanes). Visit the striped Church of San Pietro on the rocky promontory — it's dramatic. Stop at the Grotta Arpaia (Byron's Grotto) where the poet allegedly swam to Lerici

Ferry to Palmaria Island(5 minutes)

Small boats shuttle from Portovenere harbor every 15-20 min, €5 round trip. Palmaria has hiking trails, a beach at Cala del Pozzale, and far fewer tourists than the main villages

Lunch and swimming on Palmaria Island(3 hours)

Hike to the western side for the wild beach at Cala del Pozzale (30 min walk). Bring a picnic — there's one small restaurant (Il Terrizzo) on the harbor side with seafood mains from €12

Evening back in La Spezia at Pizzeria La Pia(1 hour)

Excellent farinata (chickpea flatbread, a Ligurian specialty, €4-6) and pizza. On Via Magenta near the market. No frills, great value

Morning at La Spezia Mercato Centrale(1 hour)

Open Mon-Sat mornings. Pick up local pesto, olive oil, limoncino, and dried pasta as souvenirs. The cheese and salumi vendors offer tastings. Great for last-minute gifts

Final espresso and focaccia at Bar Sole(30 minutes)

A proper standing-at-the-bar Italian coffee experience. Espresso €1.20, focaccia from €2. Near the station on Via del Prione

Train to Pisa or Genoa airport(1-1.5 hours)

Allow at least 3 hours before your flight. Trenitalia regional trains run frequently. Keep your validated ticket — inspectors check on this route

Train from Pisa/Genoa airport to La Spezia(1-1.5 hours)

Trenitalia regional trains run every 30-60 min. Buy tickets at the airport station machines, €5-10 depending on origin

Check-in and freshen up at hotel in La Spezia(1 hour)

Stay near the central station for easy access to Cinque Terre trains. Hotels from €70/night — try Hotel Firenze e Continentale or CDH Hotel La Spezia

Evening stroll along La Spezia waterfront(1 hour)

Walk the Passeggiata Morin promenade along the harbor. Stop for a gelato at Gelateria Artigianale on Via del Prione

Dinner at Osteria della Corte in La Spezia(1.5 hours)

Try the trofie al pesto — Liguria's signature pasta. Mains €10-16. Book ahead as it's small and popular with locals

Purchase Cinque Terre Card at La Spezia station(15 minutes)

The €33 card covers unlimited trains between villages plus trail access. Available at ticket offices or machines starting at 6:30AM

Explore Riomaggiore village(2 hours)

Walk down Via Colombo to the tiny pebble beach. Climb to the castle ruins for panoramic views. Check the Via dell'Amore status at the park office

Lunch at Dau Cila in Riomaggiore(1 hour)

Perched right above the harbor with outdoor tables over the water. Fresh seafood pasta from €12. Try the fritto misto di mare (€14)

Hike from Riomaggiore to Manarola(1.5 hours)

Via the SVA trail through terraced vineyards. Moderate difficulty, bring water and proper hiking shoes

Sunset aperitivo at Nessun Dorma in Manarola(1.5 hours)

Arrive by 5PM for a terrace spot. Aperol spritz €8, bruschetta plates €6-10. The view of Manarola's colorful houses against the sunset is unbeatable

Train to Corniglia and climb the Lardarina(45 minutes)

382 steps from station to village. Shuttle bus alternative runs every 20 min (included in Cinque Terre Card)

Explore Corniglia village(1 hour)

Walk to the Belvedere di Santa Maria viewpoint. Try the local honey at Alberto's shop on Via Fieschi

Hike Corniglia to Vernazza trail(1.5 hours)

The most dramatic 3.5 km of the Sentiero Azzurro — vine-covered terraces and coastal views. Requires Cinque Terre Card

Swim at Vernazza harbor beach(1 hour)

Cool off at the small sandy beach or swim off the rocks beside the harbor

Climb Doria Castle in Vernazza(30 minutes)

Entry €2. Best elevated view of Vernazza's harbor and coastline

Dinner at Gambero Rosso in Vernazza(1.5 hours)

Terrace overlooking harbor. Spaghetti allo scoglio €16. Reservations essential in summer

Morning at Fegina Beach(3 hours)

Sun lounger rental ~€25/day. Arrive by 9:30AM for a good spot. Free public section at the far east end

Visit the Giant (Il Gigante) statue(15 minutes)

14m-tall Neptune statue at Fegina Beach, partially destroyed by WWII bombing

Lunch at Il Frantoio in Monterosso old town(1 hour)

Legendary focaccia — cheese or pesto varieties €3-5 for a filling portion

Explore Monterosso old town and Capuchin monastery(1.5 hours)

Walk up to the monastery and Church of San Francesco with its Van Dyck painting. Free entry, great sea views

Dinner at L'Ancora della Tortuga(1.5 hours)

On the rocks between old and new town. Crudo platter €18, grilled branzino €22. Book ahead

Pesto-making class with Cooking with Claudia(2.5 hours)

In Riomaggiore. Pesto genovese, trofie pasta, and focaccia from scratch. €55/person includes lunch with wine. Book ahead

Afternoon boat tour along the coast(2 hours)

Shared boats from Riomaggiore, €20-25/person. Swimming stops at hidden coves. Sea caves near Vernazza are a highlight

Revisit a favorite village(1.5 hours)

The late afternoon light is beautiful for photography

Dinner at Da Dino in La Spezia(1.5 hours)

Local favorite on Via da Passano. Muscoli ripieni €9, tegame of anchovies €11

Bus from La Spezia to Portovenere(30 minutes)

ATC bus from Via Garibaldi, every 30 min, €3.50 each way

Explore Portovenere old town(2 hours)

Walk Via Cappellini through medieval caruggi. Visit the Church of San Pietro on the rocky promontory and Byron's Grotto

Ferry to Palmaria Island(5 minutes)

Boats every 15-20 min from harbor, €5 round trip

Hiking and swimming on Palmaria(3 hours)

Hike to Cala del Pozzale beach (30 min). Bring a picnic or eat at Il Terrizzo (seafood from €12)

Evening at Pizzeria La Pia in La Spezia(1 hour)

Excellent farinata (chickpea flatbread, €4-6) and pizza. Via Magenta

Browse La Spezia Mercato Centrale(1.5 hours)

Open Mon-Sat mornings. Fresh produce, cheese, salumi, and local pesto. Great for picnic supplies

Visit the Naval Museum (Museo Tecnico Navale)(1.5 hours)

One of Italy's oldest naval museums with ship models, navigational instruments, and torpedoes. Entry €2. Via Amendola

Afternoon reading at Piazza Garibaldi(2 hours)

People-watch in La Spezia's main square with a coffee and pastry

Dinner at Il Ristorantino di Bayon(1.5 hours)

Creative Ligurian cuisine in a cozy setting. Their ravioli di magro (ricotta-spinach ravioli, €13) and grilled octopus (€15) are standouts

Bus from La Spezia to Lerici(25 minutes)

ATC bus from Viale Garibaldi, €2.50 each way. Runs every 20-30 min

Explore Lerici castle and old town(2 hours)

The 12th-century Castello di Lerici houses a paleontology museum (€5). Great views from the ramparts. Walk the old town's pastel-colored streets along the harbor

Swim at Lerici beach(1.5 hours)

Sandy beach right in town with clear water. Free areas available or rent loungers for €15/day. Less crowded than Cinque Terre beaches

Walk or bus to Tellaro(30 minutes)

The coastal path is beautiful but hilly (2 km). Or take the bus (€1.50). Tellaro is a tiny pastel village clinging to rocks — one of Italy's Borghi più Belli (most beautiful hamlets)

Lunch at Miranda in Tellaro(1.5 hours)

Famous seafood restaurant with a terrace over the sea. Their cozze alla marinara (mussels, €10) and grilled fish are legendary. Reservations essential

Evening passeggiata in Lerici(1 hour)

Join the locals on the evening stroll along the waterfront. Stop for gelato at Gelateria Biagi

Train from La Spezia to Levanto(25 minutes)

Direct trains every 30 min. Levanto has a more laid-back, local vibe than the five villages

Morning at Levanto Beach(2 hours)

A long sandy beach with waves — popular with surfers. Free sections at both ends. Rent a surfboard from Levanto Surf if conditions are right (€20/2hrs)

Hike from Levanto to Monterosso(2.5 hours)

A beautiful trail through olive groves, vineyards, and forests along the coast. 7 km, moderate difficulty. Not part of the Cinque Terre Card trail — free to walk. Views rival the main trails

Late lunch at A Cà du Sciensa in Monterosso(1 hour)

Hidden in the old town. Home-style Ligurian cooking — try the mesciua (chickpea and grain soup, a La Spezia specialty, €7)

Train to Manarola, then walk uphill to Volastra(1 hour)

A steep 2 km walk through terraced vineyards to the peaceful hamlet of Volastra (250m above sea level). Shuttle bus also available from Manarola station

Wine tasting at Cantina Cinque Terre cooperative(1.5 hours)

The local co-op in Manarola offers tastings of Sciacchetrà (rare sweet wine made from dried grapes, €5/glass) and DOC Cinque Terre white. Tasting sessions from €15/person

Explore the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora della Salute in Volastra(30 minutes)

Romanesque church dating to the 11th century with a quiet piazza. Virtually no tourists up here

Long lunch at Il Porticciolo in Manarola(1.5 hours)

A quiet alternative to Nessun Dorma. Fresh anchovy dishes and the local white wine. Mains €10-15

Afternoon exploring Manarola's cemetery viewpoint(1 hour)

Walk past the church to the cemetery — the best spot to photograph Manarola's iconic colorful stacked houses. Fewer crowds than from below

Early train to Monterosso (7:30AM departure)(25 minutes)

Start early to beat the heat and crowds. Bring 2 liters of water, snacks, sunscreen, and your Cinque Terre Card

Hike Monterosso to Vernazza(2 hours)

The toughest section — steep uphill at the start, rewarded with stunning views. 3.5 km with 200m elevation gain

Quick rest and espresso in Vernazza(30 minutes)

Stop at the harbor bar for an espresso (€1.20) and refill water bottles

Hike Vernazza to Corniglia(1.5 hours)

Arguably the most beautiful section. 4 km through vineyards with panoramic views of both villages

Lunch break in Corniglia(1 hour)

Eat at Bar Terza Terra for a panini (€5-7) with a view. The quietest lunch stop on the trail

Continue to Manarola and Riomaggiore(2 hours)

The final 4.5 km. Check trail conditions for the Manarola-Riomaggiore section — if closed, take the train for one stop

Celebratory dinner at Rio Bistrot in Riomaggiore(1.5 hours)

Modern Ligurian cuisine with harbor views. Their tasting menu (€35) is a great way to cap off the hike

Train to Luni (Sarzana-Luni station)(20 minutes)

Quick train from La Spezia. The ancient Roman colony of Luni gave its name to the Lunigiana region

Visit the Luni Archaeological Site(1.5 hours)

Ruins of a Roman colony founded in 177 BC with amphitheater remains, mosaics, and a museum. Entry €5. Open Tue-Sun 8:30AM-7:30PM

Bus or car to Carrara marble quarries(45 minutes)

From Sarzana station, regional bus to Carrara (€3). Book a 4x4 quarry tour in advance at marmocarrara.com (from €25/person)

Marble quarry guided tour(2 hours)

Drive into the active quarries at Fantiscritti — massive white marble walls rising above you. Learn about quarrying from Roman times to today. The landscape looks like another planet

Lunch at Trattoria Venanzio in Colonnata(1.5 hours)

The village famous for Lardo di Colonnata — cured pork fat aged in marble basins for 6+ months. Try the lardo on warm bread (€8) and pasta with lardo sauce (€10). A must for food lovers

Morning ferry from La Spezia to Riomaggiore(30 minutes)

Golfo dei Poeti ferry day pass ~€35. Departs from Passeggiata Morin. The sea approach to each village is unforgettable

Ferry-hop between villages(3 hours)

Stop at Manarola, Vernazza, and Monterosso — the ferry skips Corniglia (no port). Spend 30-45 min at each for final photos and last-minute shopping

Final swim at Monterosso beach(1 hour)

One last dip in the turquoise Ligurian Sea. The afternoon is quieter as day-trippers start leaving

Ferry back to La Spezia via Portovenere(1 hour)

The full coastal circuit. Watch the sunset over the Gulf of Poets from the ferry deck

Farewell dinner at Antica Trattoria Sevieri in La Spezia(2 hours)

Fine Ligurian dining. Their seafood tasting menu (€40) is a fitting finale. Pair with a bottle of Cinque Terre DOC white wine

Morning at La Spezia Mercato Centrale(1 hour)

Pick up pesto, olive oil, limoncino, and dried pasta as souvenirs. The cheese and salumi vendors offer tastings

Final espresso and focaccia(30 minutes)

Standing at the bar at Bar Sole near the station. Espresso €1.20, focaccia from €2

Train to Pisa or Genoa airport(1-1.5 hours)

Allow 3 hours before your flight. Trenitalia regional trains run frequently

Train from Pisa/Genoa airport to La Spezia(1-1.5 hours)

Trenitalia regional trains every 30-60 min. €5-10 depending on origin

Check into apartment in La Spezia(1 hour)

For 21 days, book an apartment on Via del Prione or near the station. Airbnb/Booking.com apartments from €50/night with kitchen. Stock up basics at Coop supermarket on Viale Italia

Evening stroll along La Spezia waterfront(1 hour)

Walk the Passeggiata Morin promenade. Gelato at Gelateria Artigianale

Dinner at Osteria della Corte(1.5 hours)

Trofie al pesto and a glass of Vermentino. Mains €10-16

Purchase Cinque Terre Card at La Spezia station(15 minutes)

Get the €33/day card for days you plan to hike and train. On non-hiking days, individual train tickets (€5) are cheaper

Explore Riomaggiore village(2 hours)

Walk Via Colombo to the pebble beach. Climb to the castle ruins for panoramic views

Lunch at Dau Cila in Riomaggiore(1 hour)

Harbor-side terrace. Fritto misto di mare €14

Hike from Riomaggiore to Manarola(1.5 hours)

Via the SVA trail through terraced vineyards. Moderate difficulty

Sunset at Nessun Dorma in Manarola(1.5 hours)

Arrive by 5PM. Aperol spritz €8, bruschetta €6-10

Train to Corniglia and climb the Lardarina(45 minutes)

382 steps up or shuttle bus every 20 min

Explore Corniglia village(1 hour)

Belvedere di Santa Maria viewpoint. Local honey at Alberto's shop

Hike Corniglia to Vernazza(1.5 hours)

3.5 km of the Sentiero Azzurro's most dramatic terrain

Climb Doria Castle(30 minutes)

Entry €2. Best view of the harbor

Dinner at Gambero Rosso in Vernazza(1.5 hours)

Harbor terrace. Spaghetti allo scoglio €16

Morning at Fegina Beach(3 hours)

Lounger rental ~€25/day. Free public section at far east end

Lunch at Il Frantoio(1 hour)

Legendary focaccia, €3-5 per portion

Monterosso old town and Capuchin monastery(1.5 hours)

Church of San Francesco with Van Dyck painting. Free

Dinner at L'Ancora della Tortuga(1.5 hours)

Crudo platter €18, grilled branzino €22

Browse La Spezia Mercato Centrale(1.5 hours)

Fresh produce, cheese, salumi. Pick up ingredients for dinner at your apartment

Visit Museo Lia art collection(1.5 hours)

Surprisingly excellent collection of medieval and Renaissance art. Entry €8. Via del Prione

Cook dinner in your apartment(1.5 hours)

Make trofie al pesto with market ingredients — flat pasta with basil pesto, potatoes, and green beans

Pesto-making class with Cooking with Claudia(2.5 hours)

In Riomaggiore. Pesto, trofie, and focaccia from scratch. €55/person includes lunch

Afternoon boat tour along the coast(2 hours)

Shared boats from Riomaggiore, €20-25/person. Swimming stops at hidden coves

Dinner at Da Dino in La Spezia(1.5 hours)

Muscoli ripieni €9, tegame of anchovies €11

Bus to Portovenere(30 minutes)

ATC bus, €3.50 each way

Explore Portovenere old town(2 hours)

Church of San Pietro on the rocky promontory. Byron's Grotto

Ferry to Palmaria Island(5 minutes)

€5 round trip

Hiking and swimming on Palmaria(3 hours)

Cala del Pozzale beach (30 min walk). Lunch at Il Terrizzo

Evening at Pizzeria La Pia(1 hour)

Farinata and pizza. Via Magenta

Bus to Lerici(25 minutes)

ATC bus, €2.50 each way

Explore Lerici castle and old town(2 hours)

Castello di Lerici with paleontology museum (€5). Harbor-side pastel streets

Walk or bus to Tellaro(30 minutes)

One of Italy's Borghi più Belli

Lunch at Miranda in Tellaro(1.5 hours)

Terrace over the sea. Cozze alla marinara €10

Morning at Levanto Beach(2 hours)

Long sandy beach with waves. Surfboard rental €20/2hrs

Hike Levanto to Monterosso(2.5 hours)

7 km through olive groves and vineyards. Free trail, no card needed

Late lunch at A Cà du Sciensa in Monterosso(1 hour)

Mesciua soup €7

Sleep in and late breakfast at Café del Centro(1.5 hours)

Cornetto and cappuccino, €3.50 total. Sit outside and read

Do laundry at the laundromat on Via Chiodo(1 hour)

Wash and dry €8. Good time to journal or plan the second half of the trip

Afternoon walk to Porto Mirabello marina(1.5 hours)

Modern marina area with waterfront cafés. Different vibe from the medieval villages

Aperitivo at Enoteca Vino e Dintorni(1 hour)

Wine bar near the market. Flight of 3 Ligurian wines €12

Simple apartment dinner(1 hour)

Pasta, salad, and local wine from the market

Train to Manarola, walk uphill to Volastra(1 hour)

Steep 2 km through terraced vineyards to 250m elevation

Wine tasting at Cantina Cinque Terre(1.5 hours)

Sciacchetrà sweet wine (€5/glass) and DOC whites. Tastings from €15

Sanctuary of Nostra Signora della Salute(30 minutes)

11th-century Romanesque church. No tourists up here

Lunch at Il Porticciolo in Manarola(1.5 hours)

Fresh anchovy dishes, local white wine. Mains €10-15

Manarola cemetery viewpoint photography(1 hour)

Best angle for Manarola's iconic stacked houses

Early train to Monterosso (7:30AM)(25 minutes)

Bring 2 liters of water, snacks, sunscreen

Hike Monterosso to Vernazza(2 hours)

Toughest section. 3.5 km, 200m elevation gain

Hike Vernazza to Corniglia(1.5 hours)

4 km through vineyards with panoramic views

Lunch in Corniglia at Bar Terza Terra(1 hour)

Panini €5-7 with a view

Continue to Manarola and Riomaggiore(2 hours)

Final 4.5 km. Train for closed sections

Celebratory dinner at Rio Bistrot(1.5 hours)

Tasting menu €35

Train to Carrara(30 minutes)

Regional train from La Spezia

4x4 quarry tour at Fantiscritti(2 hours)

Book at marmocarrara.com from €25/person. Drive into active quarries — massive white marble walls

Lunch at Trattoria Venanzio in Colonnata(1.5 hours)

Lardo di Colonnata on warm bread €8. Pasta with lardo sauce €10

Visit a marble workshop in Carrara town(1 hour)

Several artisan workshops along Via Carriona offer demonstrations. Some allow you to chisel a small piece (€15)

Train from La Spezia to Genoa Piazza Principe(1.5 hours)

Trenitalia regional or Intercity, €8-15. Drop bags at hotel in the old town (centro storico)

Walk the caruggi (medieval alleys) of the centro storico(2 hours)

Europe's largest medieval old town. Narrow lanes packed with hole-in-the-wall focaccia shops, antique dealers, and churches. Start from Piazza de Ferrari

Lunch at Focacceria di Recco Sa Pesta(45 minutes)

Focaccia col formaggio di Recco — paper-thin dough with molten stracchino cheese. €4-6 per portion. Near Piazza delle Erbe

Visit the Palazzi dei Rolli (UNESCO)(2 hours)

Via Garibaldi's Renaissance palaces, once the homes of Genoa's merchant aristocracy. Palazzo Rosso (€9) has a rooftop terrace with city views. Open Tue-Sun 9AM-7PM

Dinner at Trattoria della Raibetta(1.5 hours)

Near the old port. Try the pansotti in salsa di noci (stuffed pasta in walnut cream sauce, €12) — Genoa's signature dish

Visit Genoa Aquarium (Acquario di Genova)(2.5 hours)

Europe's second-largest aquarium with 70+ tanks including dolphins, sharks, and jellyfish. Entry €29. Open daily 9AM-8PM. Book online to skip queues

Biosphere and Galata Maritime Museum(1.5 hours)

Renzo Piano's glass Biosphere (€5) and the Galata museum (€17) covering Genoa's seafaring history with a full-size galleon replica. Both at the old port

Street food tour of Sottoripa(2 hours)

Walk the arcaded Via Sottoripa near the port. Try farinata at Antica Friggitoria Carega (€3), fried seafood cones at one of the fritture stands (€5-8), and finish with pesto on corzetti pasta

Ride the Spianata Castelletto lift(30 minutes)

Free public elevator from Piazza Portello to a belvedere with sweeping views of the old town, port, and mountains. Best at sunset

Evening at wine bar Le Rune(1.5 hours)

In the university quarter near Via Balbi. Ligurian wines by the glass from €4, with complimentary aperitivo snacks

Visit Cemetery of Staglieno(2 hours)

One of Europe's most incredible cemeteries — elaborate marble sculptures rival any gallery. Mark Twain called it 'a city of the dead more beautiful than any city of the living.' Free entry. Take bus 34 from Piazza Corvetto (20 min)

Train to Genova Nervi(15 minutes)

Regional train from Genova Piazza Principe

Walk the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi in Nervi(1 hour)

A 2 km cliff-side promenade above the sea — arguably the most beautiful waterfront walk in all of Liguria. Free

Swim at Nervi beach(1.5 hours)

Rocky beach with crystal-clear water. The public lido has a saltwater pool (€5 entry)

Lunch at Pintori in Nervi(1.5 hours)

Garden restaurant with excellent trenette al pesto and fresh seafood. Mains €12-18

Return to La Spezia in the evening(1.5 hours)

Regional train back. Settle back into your apartment

Market shopping for the week ahead(1 hour)

Stock up at Mercato Centrale and Coop supermarket

Late afternoon swim at Spiaggia del Muggiano(1.5 hours)

Local beach 3 km from La Spezia center. Bus or 30-min walk. Much less crowded than Cinque Terre beaches

Simple aperitivo and apartment dinner(2 hours)

Buy a bottle of Vermentino (€8-12 at the enoteca) and make caprese salad with market mozzarella

Train to Sarzana(10 minutes)

Quick hop from La Spezia

Visit Luni Archaeological Site(1.5 hours)

Roman colony from 177 BC. Amphitheater, mosaics, museum. Entry €5

Walk Sarzana's old town(2 hours)

Fortezza di Sarzanello (medieval castle, €3 entry), antique shops on Via Mazzini, and the cathedral. Much quieter than the coastal villages

Lunch at Locanda dei Ciomei(1.5 hours)

Tuscan-Ligurian border cuisine. Try the testaroli al pesto (ancient Lunigiana pasta, €9). Mains €10-14

Afternoon wine tasting at a Colli di Luni winery(1.5 hours)

The DOC Colli di Luni zone produces excellent Vermentino. Visit Cantine Lunae Bosoni (open by appointment, tastings from €10)

Train from La Spezia to Lucca(1 hour)

Regional train, €8-10. Drop bags at hotel inside the walls — try Hotel Palazzo Alexander or B&B La Romea

Rent a bike and cycle the Renaissance walls(1.5 hours)

Lucca's 4.2 km intact city walls are wide enough to cycle on. Rent from Biciclette Poli near Piazza Santa Maria (€15/day). The tree-lined promenade on top is magical

Explore Piazza dell'Anfiteatro(45 minutes)

A unique oval piazza built on the ruins of a Roman amphitheater. Cafés line the edges but drinks are expensive — just walk through and admire the shape

Lunch at Trattoria Da Leo(1 hour)

No-frills local institution. Try tordelli lucchesi (large meat-stuffed pasta, €8) or zuppa di farro (spelt soup, €6). Cash only, always packed

Climb Torre Guinigi(45 minutes)

A medieval tower with live oak trees growing on top. Entry €5. 230 steps. Panoramic views of Lucca's rooftops and the surrounding hills

Visit Cattedrale di San Martino(45 minutes)

12th-century cathedral with the famous Volto Santo crucifix and a stunning Tintoretto. Entry €3

Dinner at Buca di Sant'Antonio(1.5 hours)

Lucca's most famous restaurant (since 1782). Rabbit stew, tortelli, and Lucchese wines. Mains €14-22. Reserve ahead

Train from Lucca to Pisa(30 minutes)

Frequent regional trains, €3.60

Piazza dei Miracoli — Leaning Tower, Cathedral, Baptistery(2.5 hours)

The Tower (€20, book online, 30-min timed entry) leans 3.97 degrees. The Cathedral (free) has a stunning mosaic apse. Baptistery (€7) has remarkable acoustics — staff demonstrate every 30 min

Walk through Pisa old town to the river(1 hour)

Most tourists never leave the tower area. Walk down Borgo Stretto to the Arno River and Ponte di Mezzo for a different perspective

Lunch at Osteria dei Cavalieri in Pisa(1 hour)

Near Via San Frediano. Excellent Tuscan cuisine — ribollita soup €7, tagliata di manzo €14. Much better value than Piazza dei Miracoli restaurants

Train from Pisa to La Spezia(1 hour)

Direct regional train. Return to your apartment for the final evening

Farewell dinner at Il Ristorantino di Bayon(2 hours)

A proper last meal. Their degustazione menu (€40) showcases the best of Ligurian cuisine

Last visit to Mercato Centrale(45 minutes)

Vacuum-sealed pesto, olive oil, limoncino, and pasta for souvenirs

Final standing-at-the-bar espresso and focaccia(30 minutes)

Bar Sole near the station. Espresso €1.20, focaccia €2. The proper Italian goodbye

Train to Pisa or Genoa airport(1-1.5 hours)

Allow 3 hours before your flight