Best Time to Visit
May to September (dry season, cold nights 0-5°C, sunny days 18-20°C)
Language
Spanish, Quechua (indigenous language still widely spoken)
Currency
Peruvian Sol (PEN)
Time Zone
Peru Time (UTC-5), no daylight saving
Airport
Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport (CUZ)
Population
450,000 (city proper)
Climate
Highland subtropical, avg 10-20°C, rainy season Nov-March, dry May-Sept
Safety Rating
Exercise Increased Caution (Level 2) — tourist center is safe, watch for petty theft
Elevation
3,400 meters (11,150 ft) — acclimatize 1-2 days before trekking
The 15th-century Inca citadel at 2,430m, one of the New Seven Wonders. Entry: ~S/152 (~$40 USD) for foreigners, must book online at machupicchu.gob.pe. Limited to ~4,000 visitors/day in timed circuits. Train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes: ~$60-90 USD round trip via PeruRail or Inca Rail. Allow a full day.
A fertile valley of Inca ruins and Andean markets between Cusco and Machu Picchu. Boleto Turístico (tourist ticket): ~S/130 (~$35 USD) covers 16 sites over 10 days. Ollantaytambo's fortress ruins are stunning. Pisac's Sunday market is the region's best for textiles and ceramics.
Massive Inca fortress overlooking Cusco, built with stones weighing up to 200 tons fitted without mortar. Included in Boleto Turístico. Open 7AM-5:30PM. Walk uphill from Plaza de Armas (25 min steep climb) or take a taxi (~S/10). Inti Raymi festival held here in June.
Multicolored mountain at 5,200m elevation — a demanding day hike from Cusco (3-hour drive + 2-hour hike each way). Tours: ~S/80-150 (~$20-40 USD). Only attempt after acclimatizing 2-3 days in Cusco. Altitude sickness is common. Start at 3AM to finish before afternoon clouds.
Cusco's central market since 1925 — the best place for affordable local food and fresh juice. Try ceviche (~S/10), chicharrón sandwiches (~S/8), and fresh fruit juices (~S/5). Open Mon-Sat 6AM-6PM. 5-minute walk from Plaza de Armas. Also sells coca leaves for altitude relief.
Circular agricultural terraces used by Incas as a crop laboratory, paired with pre-Inca salt evaporation ponds still in use today. Moray entry: included in Boleto Turístico. Maras: ~S/10. Combined half-day tour from Cusco: ~S/60-100. The salt mines are stunning for photography.
A steep, narrow-laned neighborhood above Plaza de Armas full of art galleries, ceramics workshops, and craft shops. Free to explore. The San Blas Church has a carved wooden pulpit considered the finest in the Americas. Best cafés: The Meeting Place, Jack's Café. Quiet mornings, lively evenings.
Arrive at Alejandro Velasco Astete Airport (CUZ) and transfer to your hotel. At 3,400 meters, altitude sickness is real — spend today hydrating, drinking coca tea, and taking it very slow.
Taxi from CUZ to Plaza de Armas area(15 minutes)
Official airport taxis ~S/15-20 (~$4-5 USD). Pre-arranged hotel transfers also available. The airport is only 6 km from the center
Check-in and coca tea at hotel(2 hours)
Most hotels serve free mate de coca upon arrival. Drink several cups. Rest with your head elevated. Avoid heavy meals and alcohol today
Gentle walk around Plaza de Armas(1 hour)
The magnificent colonial square flanked by the Cathedral and Iglesia de la Compañía. Walk slowly — you'll feel the altitude on any incline. Free to explore
Light dinner near the plaza(1 hour)
Try quinoa soup and a light meal at Morena Peruvian Kitchen on Calle Plateros. Soups ~S/15-25. Avoid rich foods on night one
Explore the historic center — Inca stonework foundations beneath Spanish churches, the vibrant market, and the artisan quarter of San Blas.
San Pedro Market(1.5 hours)
Cusco's central market since 1925. Try fresh juice (~S/5), chicharrón sandwiches (~S/8), and ceviche (~S/10). Buy coca leaves for altitude. Open Mon-Sat 6AM-6PM. 5 minutes from the plaza
Cusco Cathedral(1 hour)
Included in Boleto Turístico or ~S/25 separately. Built on the Inca palace of Viracocha. Note the Last Supper painting with cuy (guinea pig) as the main dish
Walk the Inca stone walls of Hatun Rumiyuq(30 minutes)
The famous 12-angle stone (Piedra de los 12 Ángulos) is fitted perfectly without mortar on Calle Hatun Rumiyuq. Free to view
Lunch at Jack's Café in San Blas(1 hour)
Hearty international food with huge portions. Burgers and salads from S/25-40. A traveler institution
Explore San Blas artisan quarter(1.5 hours)
Steep, narrow lanes above the plaza with galleries, ceramics workshops, and craft shops. The San Blas Church pulpit is the finest carved woodwork in the Americas. Free to wander
Full day in the fertile valley between Cusco and Machu Picchu, exploring Inca ruins and the region's best market. The lower altitude (2,800m) also helps acclimatization.
Colectivo to Pisac(1 hour)
Shared vans from Calle Puputi near Cusco center, ~S/10. The winding descent into the Sacred Valley has spectacular views
Pisac ruins and market(2.5 hours)
Ruins are included in Boleto Turístico (~S/130 for 16 sites over 10 days). Terraced Inca fortress on the mountainside. The Sunday market below is the region's best for textiles and ceramics
Lunch at Ulrike's Café in Pisac(1 hour)
German-Peruvian café on the main square. Excellent trout and homemade bread. Mains ~S/25-40
Colectivo to Ollantaytambo(45 minutes)
~S/5-10. Through the Sacred Valley alongside the Urubamba River
Ollantaytambo fortress ruins(1.5 hours)
Included in Boleto Turístico. Massive Inca fortress with 6 monolithic stones at the top. The Sun Temple terrace views are stunning. This is also the train station for Machu Picchu
The crown jewel — the 15th-century Inca citadel hidden in the cloud forest. A full day of trains, buses, and awe.
Train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes(1.5 hours)
PeruRail or Inca Rail, ~$60-90 USD round trip. Book well ahead in peak season. The Expedition class has panoramic windows. Depart by 7AM
Bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu(25 minutes)
~$24 USD round trip. Buses run constantly from 5:30AM. Or walk up the steep road (1.5 hours)
Explore Machu Picchu(4 hours)
Entry ~S/152 (~$40 USD) for foreigners. Book at machupicchu.gob.pe — limited to ~4,000 visitors/day in timed circuits. Hire a guide at the entrance (~S/80-100 per group). The Temple of the Sun, Intihuatana stone, and agricultural terraces are essential
Lunch in Aguas Calientes(1 hour)
Indio Feliz on Calle Lloque Yupanqui has the town's best meal — French-Peruvian set lunch ~S/45 including pisco sour. Book ahead
Return train to Ollantaytambo or Cusco(1.5-3 hours)
Evening trains back. The Vistadome class has live music and fashion shows on board
Morning at the massive Inca fortress above Cusco with stones weighing 200 tons, afternoon exploring lesser-known ruins nearby.
Walk or taxi to Sacsayhuamán(30 minutes)
25 minutes uphill from Plaza de Armas (take it slow at this altitude) or taxi ~S/10. Included in Boleto Turístico. Open 7AM-5:30PM
Explore Sacsayhuamán(1.5 hours)
Massive zigzag stone walls fitted without mortar. Stones up to 200 tons. The grassy esplanade hosts Inti Raymi festival in June
Qenqo and Tambomachay(1.5 hours)
Two smaller Inca sites nearby, included in Boleto Turístico. Qenqo is a carved rock shrine with underground chambers. Tambomachay is an Inca ceremonial bath with still-flowing water
Lunch at The Meeting Place in San Blas(1 hour)
Australian-Peruvian café. Great coffee, banana bread, and Peruvian-inspired brunch. Mains ~S/20-35
Free afternoon to shop and wander(2 hours)
Browse alpaca wool shops on Calle Hatun Rumiyuq and Calle Triunfo. Quality varies — look for baby alpaca (softest grade)
Half-day trip to two of the Sacred Valley's most photogenic sites — Inca agricultural laboratories and pre-Inca salt pans still in use.
Tour or taxi to Moray and Maras(1 hour)
Combined half-day tour from Cusco ~S/60-100 per person. Or taxi to Chinchero and colectivo onward
Moray Inca terraces(1 hour)
Circular concentric terraces used as an agricultural laboratory. Each level creates a different microclimate. Included in Boleto Turístico. Stunning geometry
Maras salt mines (Salineras)(1 hour)
3,000+ salt evaporation ponds cascading down a hillside, in use since pre-Inca times. Entry ~S/10. Buy Maras pink salt as a souvenir. Best light for photos in afternoon
Dinner at Chicha in Cusco(1.5 hours)
Gastón Acurio's Cusco restaurant. Elevated Andean cuisine — try the cuy (guinea pig) if you're adventurous, or the lamb in huacatay sauce. Mains ~S/50-80. Book ahead
Last morning in Cusco for market visits and final souvenirs before your flight.
Early morning at San Pedro Market(1 hour)
One last round of fresh juice and chicharrón. Buy Peruvian coffee, chocolate, and coca tea to take home
Walk through the plaza one final time(30 minutes)
The Cathedral and surrounding Inca-colonial architecture in morning light
Last shopping on Calle Triunfo(1 hour)
Alpaca scarves, hand-painted ceramics, and Maras salt. Bargain at smaller shops, not the tourist stores on the plaza
Taxi to CUZ airport(15 minutes)
~S/15-20. Allow 2 hours before your flight. The airport has limited food options — eat before you go
US, Canadian, EU, and UK citizens get up to 183 days visa-free. Immigration may stamp fewer days — check your stamp and request more if needed. You'll receive a Tarjeta Andina de Migración (TAM) — this is now digital but keep a screenshot. No extensions available.
At 3,400m, most visitors feel some altitude effects: headaches, nausea, shortness of breath. Spend 1-2 days acclimatizing before any treks. Drink coca tea (mate de coca, legal and available everywhere). Pharmacies sell Sorojchi Pills (aspirin + caffeine). Avoid alcohol on day one. Sleep with your head elevated.
PeruRail and Inca Rail trains from Cusco/Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes sell out weeks ahead in peak season (June-August). Book at perurail.com or incarail.com. Budget option: take a colectivo to Hidroeléctrica station (~S/60 round trip) then walk 2.5 hours along the tracks — scenic but basic.
The Boleto Turístico (~S/130 for foreigners) covers 16 archaeological sites and museums over 10 days, including Sacsayhuamán, Moray, Pisac, and Ollantaytambo. Buy it at the COSITUC office on Avenida El Sol or at any included site. Individual tickets cost more than the pass if visiting 3+ sites.
Menú del día (set lunch) at local restaurants includes soup, main course, drink, and sometimes dessert for S/8-15 (~$2-4 USD). Available 12-3PM at restaurants displaying 'menú' signs. Quality varies — follow the crowds. Tourist restaurants on Plaza de Armas charge S/40+ for the same dishes.
Women in traditional Andean dress near tourist sites will pose for photos but expect a tip of S/1-2 per photo. Always ask first. In markets and rural areas, photographing without permission is considered disrespectful. A polite 'puedo tomar una foto?' goes a long way.
I skipped the train, walked the railway tracks for 2.5 hours, slept in Aguas Calientes, and arrived at the citadel at dawn. The ruins were secondary to the journey.
At 3,400 meters, Cusco punishes the unprepared. Here's everything I learned across two trips about surviving the altitude, stretching your soles, and actually enjoying Machu Picchu.