Best Time to Visit
April to October (warmest, best river levels for Li River cruise). September-October ideal — less rain, rice terraces golden
Language
Mandarin Chinese, Guilin dialect
Currency
Chinese Yuan Renminbi (CNY)
Time Zone
CST (UTC+8)
Airport
Guilin Liangjiang International (KWL), 28km SW of city center
Population
5.4 million (metro), 1 million (city proper)
Climate
Subtropical humid, mild winters (5-10°C), warm summers (25-33°C), rainy April-June
Safety Rating
Very Safe — low crime, main concern is tourist pricing at popular spots
The 83km cruise downstream through towering karst peaks is one of China's most iconic journeys — the scenery on the 20 CNY banknote is from this stretch. Full cruise: 210-450 CNY (~$30-63) depending on boat class, 4-5 hours. Departs ~9AM from Zhujiang Pier. Book through your hotel or a licensed agency. The stretch between Xingping and Yangshuo is the most dramatic. Bring snacks — onboard food is mediocre.
Spectacular stepped rice paddies carved into mountainsides by Zhuang and Yao minorities over 600 years. 100km north of Guilin (2.5-hour drive). Entry: 80 CNY (~$11). Best sections: Ping'an (easier walk, 1-2 hours) and Jinkeng (more dramatic, steeper, 2-3 hours). Golden in late September-October (harvest). Stay overnight in a Zhuang wooden guesthouse (100-200 CNY) for sunrise over the terraces.
Rent a bike in Yangshuo (20-30 CNY/day for a basic bike, 80 CNY for e-bike) and ride through some of China's most beautiful countryside. The route along the Yulong River passes under ancient stone bridges, through rice paddies, and past water buffalo. Allow a full day. The 10km stretch from Yangshuo to Moon Hill is the classic route. Bamboo rafting on the Yulong River (200 CNY per raft, 1.5 hours) is the perfect pairing.
A 240-million-year-old limestone cave system lit with colorful LED lights, 5km from Guilin center. Entry: 90 CNY (~$13). Open 8AM-5:30PM. The cave stretches 500m with stalactites, stalagmites, and rock formations given fanciful names (Crystal Palace, Lion with a Ball). A guided tour takes 40 minutes. Can be cheesy with the lighting, but the formations themselves are genuinely impressive.
A quiet riverside town on the Li River where the famous 20 CNY banknote view is photographed. Less commercialized than Yangshuo, with Ming and Qing dynasty architecture. Hike up Xianggong Hill (60 CNY entry) for the best aerial view of the Li River's horseshoe bend — go at sunrise. The town has simple guesthouses and excellent river fish restaurants. 25km from Yangshuo by local bus (8 CNY).
Guilin's most recognizable landmark — a karst hill that looks exactly like an elephant drinking from the Li River. Entry: 55 CNY (~$8). Open 6:30AM-9:30PM. Best photographed from across the river (free) rather than from inside the park, honestly. The nearby Sun and Moon Pagodas on Shan Lake are beautifully lit at night and free to view from outside.
Arrive at Guilin Liangjiang International (KWL), 28km from the city. Take the airport bus to the city center (20 CNY, 40 minutes). Check into a hotel near the Li River waterfront.
Airport bus to central Guilin(40 minutes)
Airport buses depart every 30 minutes to the train station area (20 CNY). Taxi: 100-120 CNY. Set up Alipay on your phone
Elephant Trunk Hill(1 hour)
Guilin's most recognizable landmark — a karst hill shaped like an elephant drinking from the river. Entry: 55 CNY. Better photographed from across the river (free) than from inside the park. The Sun and Moon Pagodas on Shan Lake are beautifully illuminated at night
Dinner at Chunji Roast Goose on Zhengyang Road(1 hour)
A local institution for Cantonese-style roast goose. Half goose: 78 CNY, serves 2. Pair with Guilin rice noodles (mifen) from a stall — 8-12 CNY with pickled beans and braised beef
The 83km cruise downstream through towering karst peaks is one of China's most iconic journeys — the scenery on the 20 CNY banknote is from this stretch.
Transfer to Zhujiang Pier(45 minutes)
Departs ~9AM. Your hotel can arrange the transfer. Arrive 30 minutes early for boarding
Li River Cruise (Guilin to Yangshuo)(4-5 hours)
210-450 CNY depending on boat class. The stretch between Xingping and Yangshuo is the most dramatic — cameras ready. Bring snacks (onboard food is mediocre). The cormorant fishermen are staged but photogenic
Check into hotel in Yangshuo(1 hour)
Base yourself here for the next few days. West Street (Xi Jie) area is central but noisy; stay one block back for quiet with convenience
Evening walk on West Street(1.5 hours)
Yangshuo's backpacker strip — cafes, bars, and souvenir shops. Touristy but atmospheric with karst peaks as a backdrop. Try a mango smoothie (15 CNY) and beer fish preview at a terrace restaurant
A full day cycling through some of China's most beautiful countryside along the Yulong River, past rice paddies, water buffalo, and ancient stone bridges.
Rent an e-bike in Yangshuo(30 minutes)
80 CNY/day for an e-bike (recommended over regular bikes — hills are real). Check battery level before heading out. Regular bikes: 20-30 CNY/day
Cycle the Yulong River route to Moon Hill(4-5 hours)
The 10km route passes under ancient stone bridges, through rice paddies, and past water buffalo. Moon Hill (a karst peak with a moon-shaped hole) has a 20-minute climb for panoramic views — entry 15 CNY. Stop at the Yulong Bridge for the classic photo
Bamboo rafting on the Yulong River(1.5 hours)
200 CNY per raft (2 passengers). Official rafts only — book through your hotel or the official ticket office. Life jackets mandatory. The drift past the Dragon Bridge is the highlight. Quieter and more intimate than the Li River cruise
Beer fish dinner at Yangshuo Da Sifang(1 hour)
Beer fish (pijiu yu) is Yangshuo's signature dish — fresh Li River fish stewed in beer with tomatoes and peppers. 60-80 CNY, easily feeds two. Da Sifang near West Street is the locals' pick
A quieter riverside town where the famous banknote view is photographed, with excellent hiking and Ming dynasty streets.
Bus from Yangshuo to Xingping(30 minutes)
Local bus from Yangshuo bus station (8 CNY). Frequent departures
Hike Xianggong Hill for aerial view(2 hours)
Entry: 60 CNY. The best aerial view of the Li River's horseshoe bend — go at sunrise for the most dramatic light. The 20 CNY banknote scene is from the riverside at the base of this hill
Walk Xingping ancient town(1.5 hours)
Ming and Qing dynasty architecture, far less commercialized than Yangshuo. Simple guesthouses and excellent river fish restaurants. The main street is only 100m long but authentically atmospheric
Li River sunset from the 20 CNY viewpoint(1 hour)
Walk to the riverside spot that matches the banknote. Hold up a 20 CNY note for the obligatory comparison photo. The light at sunset makes the karst peaks glow gold
Morning at Yangshuo's famous cave, then transfer back to Guilin for the city's own karst cave system and evening lakeside walk.
Silver Cave (Yinzi Yan) near Yangshuo(1.5 hours)
Entry: 75 CNY. A more natural-looking cave than Reed Flute, with massive underground waterfall. 12km from Yangshuo — hire an e-bike or taxi (40 CNY round trip)
Bus or train back to Guilin(1.5 hours)
High-speed train from Yangshuo to Guilin: 25 minutes, 24 CNY. Or local bus: 1.5 hours, 25 CNY
Reed Flute Cave(1 hour)
240-million-year-old limestone cave 5km from Guilin center. Entry: 90 CNY. LED-lit stalactites and stalagmites. Guided tour: 40 minutes. The formations are genuinely impressive despite the colorful lighting
Evening walk around Guilin's Two Rivers and Four Lakes(1.5 hours)
The connected lake system is illuminated at night — free to walk the shores. The Sun and Moon Pagodas on Shan Lake are the photographic highlight. Night boat cruise: 220 CNY for the full circuit
Spectacular stepped rice paddies carved into mountainsides by Zhuang and Yao minorities over 600 years, 100km north of Guilin.
Transfer to Longji Rice Terraces(2.5 hours)
Hire a private car (~350 CNY round trip with wait) or take the tourist bus from Guilin bus station (40 CNY one way). The winding mountain road is scenic but slow
Hike the Ping'an terraces(2-3 hours)
Entry: 80 CNY. The easier section with marked paths connecting viewpoints. 'Seven Stars Accompany the Moon' and 'Nine Dragons and Five Tigers' viewpoints are the highlights. The panoramic views of cascading rice paddies are genuinely breathtaking
Lunch at a Zhuang village restaurant(1 hour)
Bamboo tube rice (zhutong fan, 15 CNY) — rice, meat, and mushrooms steamed inside fresh bamboo. The smoked pork (larou) with wild vegetables is excellent. 30-50 CNY for a full meal
Interact with Red Yao women(30 minutes)
The Red Yao women are famous for their extremely long hair — they may pose for photos for a tip (10-20 CNY). Ask before photographing. Buying handicrafts directly supports these communities
A gentle final morning in Guilin with one last bowl of rice noodles before heading to the airport.
Morning walk through Seven Star Park(1.5 hours)
Guilin's largest park with karst peaks, caves, and a small zoo. Entry: 55 CNY. The Camel Hill rock formation and the flower bridge are highlights. Watch locals practicing tai chi by the lake
Final bowl of Guilin mifen(30 minutes)
Guilin rice noodles for breakfast — find a shop with a queue of locals at 7AM. Order with pickled beans, peanuts, and braised beef. 8-15 CNY. This is the taste you will remember
Airport transfer(40 minutes)
Airport bus from train station area (20 CNY) or taxi (100-120 CNY). Allow 2.5 hours before your flight
Unlike Beijing and Shanghai, Guilin does not have the 144-hour transit visa-free policy for most airports. You typically need a standard Chinese tourist visa (L visa) applied for in advance at a Chinese embassy. Processing takes 4-7 business days. The 72-hour visa-free transit applies at KWL airport for travelers from select countries transiting to a third country.
Guilin city is a transit hub but Yangshuo (65km south) is where the magic is. Take the Li River cruise one-way from Guilin to Yangshuo (4-5 hours), then base yourself in Yangshuo for 2-3 days to cycle, raft, and explore. Direct buses from Guilin to Yangshuo take 1.5 hours (25 CNY) if you skip the cruise. High-speed train from Guilin North to Yangshuo takes 25 minutes.
Yangshuo's countryside has some hills that make regular cycling tiring, especially the route to Moon Hill. Rent an e-bike (electric scooter, 80 CNY/day) instead — no license needed for the low-power ones. Check the battery level before heading out and confirm the rental includes a charger or swap. The roads are shared with trucks, so stay on the right edge.
Guilin mifen (rice noodles) cost 8-15 CNY at local shops and are eaten for breakfast by everyone. Order with pickled beans, peanuts, and braised beef topping. The best shops have queues of locals at 7AM. Avoid tourist-oriented noodle shops near scenic spots that charge 30-40 CNY for the same thing. Beer fish (pijiu yu) in Yangshuo costs 60-80 CNY and easily feeds two.
Unofficial raft operators near Yangshuo may approach offering cheap rides (50 CNY) but will demand more money midway or drop you at an inconvenient location. Use only official bamboo rafts booked through licensed operators or your hotel. The official Yulong River bamboo rafting costs 200 CNY per raft (2 passengers). Life jackets are mandatory — insist on them.
The Longji Rice Terraces area is home to Zhuang and Yao ethnic minorities with distinct cultures. The Red Yao women are famous for their extremely long hair — they may offer to pose for photos for a small tip (10-20 CNY), which is a legitimate income source. Ask before photographing anyone. Buying local handicrafts directly supports these communities.
TipsFrom bamboo raft scams to the perfect rice noodle breakfast, here's everything I wish I'd known before my first trip to karst country.
StoriesChen Wei has lived on the Li River for 40 years. His Guilin is nothing like the one in the tourist brochures.
StoriesI floated between karst peaks on a bamboo raft at dawn and realized every landscape photo I'd ever taken was missing something.
