Phnom Penh
Key Facts
Best Time to Visit
November to February (cool, dry season, 25-30°C)
Language
Khmer (official); English widely spoken in tourism; some French
Currency
Cambodian Riel (KHR); US Dollar (USD) used interchangeably — dual currency system
Time Zone
ICT (UTC+7)
Airport
Phnom Penh International Airport (PNH)
Population
~2.3 million (metro area)
Climate
Tropical monsoon, avg 25-35°C; wet season June-October with afternoon downpours
Safety Rating
Exercise Normal Caution (Level 1); petty theft and bag snatching are the main concerns
Known For
Royal Palace, Killing Fields memorial, riverside promenade, Khmer cuisine, art deco architecture
Top Highlights
Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda
The 1866 palace complex with the Throne Hall and the Silver Pagoda (5,000 silver floor tiles). Entry: $10 USD. Open 8-11AM and 2-5PM (closed during royal ceremonies). Dress code: long pants, covered shoulders. Allow 2 hours. Audio guide available for $5. Photography not allowed inside the pagoda.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)
Former high school converted into a Khmer Rouge interrogation center where ~17,000 prisoners were processed. Now a museum preserving the cells, shackles, and photographs. Entry: $5 USD; audio guide $3 (highly recommended). Open 8AM-5PM. Emotionally intense — allow 2 hours. Survivors occasionally visit to share their stories.
Choeung Ek Killing Fields
Memorial site 17 km south of the city where thousands of S-21 prisoners were executed. A glass stupa holds 8,000 skulls. Entry: $6 USD including audio guide narrated by a survivor. Open 8AM-5:30PM. Deeply moving — plan this on the same day as S-21 for chronological context. Tuk-tuk from city center: $15 round trip with wait.
Sisowath Quay Riverside Promenade
The city's social heart — a 3-km riverside walk along the Tonle Sap and Mekong confluence. Packed at sunset with joggers, families, and food vendors. Lined with restaurants (dinner ~$5-15 USD) and rooftop bars. The FCC (Foreign Correspondents' Club) is a classic sunset cocktail spot. Free public exercise equipment.
Central Market (Phsar Thmei)
Stunning 1937 art deco dome — one of the largest market halls in Asia. Sections for gems, gold, electronics, clothing, and a food court with Khmer dishes from $1-2. Open 7AM-5PM. The architecture itself is the draw — look up at the yellow dome interior. Haggling expected; start at 50% of asking price.
Night Markets & Cambodian BBQ
The riverside night market (Friday-Sunday near Diamond Island) offers street food from $1 and local crafts. Cambodian BBQ (phnom pleung) is the city's signature group dining experience: grill meat on a dome with broth around the edge for soup — $5-8 per person at Street 136 BBQ restaurants.
Wat Phnom
The city's namesake temple atop a 27-meter hill — the only hill in the otherwise flat city. Legend says Lady Penh founded the city here in 1372. Entry: $1 USD. Monkeys roam the park. Locals come to pray for good fortune. Best visited at sunrise or sunset. Allow 30-45 minutes. Central location near riverside.
Planned Itinerary
7-Day Phnom Penh Itinerary
Arrival & Riverside Orientation
Arrive at Phnom Penh International Airport (PNH). Get your visa and settle into the BKK1 or riverside area.
Visa on arrival at PNH(30 minutes)
$30 USD + 1 passport photo. Or e-visa ($36) at evisa.gov.kh to skip the queue
Tuk-tuk to hotel(30 minutes)
$5-7 to BKK1 or riverside. Use Grab for fixed prices — 20-30% cheaper than street tuk-tuks
Late lunch at Friends Restaurant(1 hour)
Social enterprise training former street youth. Excellent Khmer fusion from $4-8. In BKK1 near the National Museum
Sunset walk along Sisowath Quay(1.5 hours)
3-km riverside promenade along the Tonle Sap and Mekong confluence. Joggers, families, food vendors. Sunset cocktails at FCC (Foreign Correspondents' Club) rooftop from $5
Royal Palace & National Museum
Phnom Penh's gilded crown jewels — the palace complex and the museum of Khmer art.
Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda(2 hours)
$10 USD. Open 8-11AM and 2-5PM. Throne Hall, 5,000 silver floor tiles in pagoda. Dress code: long pants, covered shoulders. Audio guide $5
National Museum of Cambodia(1.5 hours)
$10. Terracotta building with the world's finest collection of Khmer sculpture — from Angkor and beyond. The courtyard with lotus ponds is peaceful
Lunch at Romdeng(1 hour)
Sister restaurant to Friends — Khmer cuisine in a French colonial villa. Try the tarantula fritters if you dare ($3). Amok fish is the safe choice ($6)
Wat Phnom sunset(45 minutes)
$1 entry. The city's namesake temple on a 27-meter hill — the only hill in flat PP. Monkeys roam the park. Locals come to pray for good fortune
Tuol Sleng & Killing Fields
An essential, sobering day. Visit the Khmer Rouge genocide sites in chronological order — S-21 first, then Choeung Ek.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)(2 hours)
$5 entry, audio guide $3 (highly recommended). Former school turned interrogation center. Cells, shackles, photographs of 17,000 prisoners. Emotionally intense. Survivors occasionally share stories
Tuk-tuk to Choeung Ek Killing Fields(30 minutes)
$15 round trip with waiting time. 17 km south
Choeung Ek memorial(1.5 hours)
$6 including audio guide narrated by a survivor. Glass stupa holds 8,000 skulls. Walk the field, listen to the audio, take time to process
Quiet afternoon at a cafe in BKK1(1.5 hours)
Brown Coffee or Vibe Cafe — you'll need space after this morning. Good wifi, air conditioning, coffee from $2
Gentle dinner at Malis(1.5 hours)
Upscale Cambodian cuisine by celebrity chef Luu Meng. Dishes $6-15. A restorative evening after a heavy day
Markets, Art & Cambodian BBQ
Shift gears to Phnom Penh's vibrant market culture, growing art scene, and legendary BBQ.
Central Market (Phsar Thmei)(1.5 hours)
Stunning 1937 art deco dome. Gems, gold, electronics, clothing, and food court ($1-2 meals). Look up at the yellow dome interior. Haggle from 50% of asking
Russian Market (Phsar Tuol Tom Poung)(1.5 hours)
Better for souvenirs — silk scarves ($5-15), silver jewelry, clothing. The surrounding food stalls have the best bai sach chrouk (pork rice) for $1.50
Lunch at bai sach chrouk stall near Russian Market(30 minutes)
Grilled pork over broken rice with pickled vegetables and a fried egg. $1.50. Cambodia's perfect breakfast/lunch
Contemporary art at Sa Sa Bassac gallery(1 hour)
Free. Phnom Penh's premier contemporary art space on Street 360. Rotating exhibitions by Cambodian artists
Cambodian BBQ dinner on Street 136(1.5 hours)
Phnom pleung — grill meat on a dome with broth around the edge for soup. $5-8 per person. Social, fun, and delicious
Mekong Island & Silk Weaving
Day trip to Koh Dach (Silk Island) in the Mekong — see traditional silk weaving and rural Cambodian life.
Tuk-tuk to ferry to Koh Dach(45 minutes)
30 min tuk-tuk to the ferry, 5 min crossing. Or hire a boat ($10-15 from riverside)
Silk weaving village(1.5 hours)
Watch women weave silk on traditional looms beneath their stilt houses. Buy scarves directly ($10-30 depending on complexity). A genuine cottage industry
Bicycle around the island(2 hours)
Rent from the ferry landing ($2). Flat paths through rice paddies, fruit orchards, and fishing villages. A complete contrast to Phnom Penh's chaos
Lunch at a riverside restaurant on Koh Dach(1 hour)
Fresh Mekong fish BBQ — $3-5 for a whole grilled fish with tamarind sauce
Return to Phnom Penh for riverside night market(1 hour)
Friday-Sunday evening near Diamond Island — street food from $1, local crafts
Free Morning & Cooking Class
Rest morning, then learn Cambodian cuisine hands-on in the afternoon.
Sleep in and brunch at Lot 369(1 hour)
French-Cambodian bakery in BKK1 — croissants, quiche, and iced coffee. $3-6
Cambodian cooking class(4 hours)
Frizz Restaurant or Khmer Cooking Class — $15-25 per person. Market visit, then cook amok fish, lok lak, and mango sticky rice. Eat everything
Sunset drinks on a rooftop bar(1.5 hours)
Sora Sky Bar or Le Moon — rooftop views of the river confluence. Cocktails $5-8
Departure Day
Final morning. Last market run and airport transfer.
Morning at Orussey Market(1 hour)
Local market most tourists skip — Kampot pepper ($3/bag), dried fish, spices. Real Khmer shopping experience
Last num banh chok breakfast(30 minutes)
Khmer noodles with green curry sauce — $1 at morning market stalls. Cambodia's quintessential breakfast
Transfer to PNH airport(30 minutes)
Grab $5-7. Allow 2 hours before flights
14-Day Phnom Penh Itinerary
Arrival & Riverside
Arrive at PNH, settle into BKK1 or riverside.
VOA at PNH(30 minutes)
$30 + photo
Grab to hotel(30 minutes)
$5-7
Lunch at Friends Restaurant(1 hour)
Social enterprise. $4-8
Sisowath Quay sunset walk(1.5 hours)
FCC rooftop cocktails $5
Royal Palace & National Museum
Gilded palace and Khmer art.
Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda(2 hours)
$10
National Museum(1.5 hours)
$10. Khmer sculpture
Lunch at Romdeng(1 hour)
Amok fish $6
Wat Phnom sunset(45 minutes)
$1
Tuol Sleng & Killing Fields
Essential genocide memorial visits.
S-21 Museum(2 hours)
$5, audio guide $3
Tuk-tuk to Choeung Ek(30 minutes)
$15 round trip
Choeung Ek(1.5 hours)
$6 with audio
Markets & Cambodian BBQ
Art deco markets, art galleries, and the famous dome BBQ.
Central Market(1.5 hours)
1937 art deco dome
Russian Market(1.5 hours)
Silk, silver, souvenirs
Bai sach chrouk lunch(30 minutes)
$1.50
Cambodian BBQ on Street 136(1.5 hours)
$5-8/person
Silk Island Day Trip
Mekong island with silk weaving and rural cycling.
Bicycle around island(2 hours)
$2 rental
Mekong fish BBQ lunch(1 hour)
$3-5
Cooking Class & Art Scene
Learn Cambodian cuisine and explore the creative quarter.
Brunch at Lot 369(1 hour)
$3-6
Cooking class(4 hours)
$15-25. Market visit, cook 3 dishes
Rest Day
Free day in Phnom Penh.
Spa treatment(2 hours)
Bodia Spa — $20-40. Khmer-inspired treatments using local herbs
Day Trip to Oudong
Former Cambodian capital 40 km north — hilltop temples and countryside.
Drive to Oudong(1 hour)
Tuk-tuk $20-25 return with waiting
Climb Phnom Udong hill(2 hours)
Former capital (1618-1866). Multiple stupas on two hilltops with Tonle Sap views. Free
Silver Pagoda at Oudong(30 minutes)
Buddhist monastery at the hilltop with active monks
Lunch at a roadside restaurant(1 hour)
Countryside Khmer food — grilled fish, morning glory stir-fry. $2-4
Phnom Penh Walking Tour & Nightlife
Guided heritage walk and experience PP's growing nightlife scene.
Walking tour of colonial Phnom Penh(3 hours)
KhmerArchitecture.com tours — $15. Colonial buildings, Secretariat, old Post Office. The guide explains the city's tumultuous history
Independence Monument and Naga World area(45 minutes)
Free. Phnom Penh's version of the Arc de Triomphe, designed by Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann
Lunch at Daughters of Cambodia(1 hour)
Social enterprise supporting trafficking survivors. Excellent smoothies and Khmer food. $3-6
Evening at Bassac Lane(2 hours)
Phnom Penh's hippest bar street — a narrow lane behind Bassac Theatre with craft cocktail bars, live music, and food stalls. Drinks from $3
Tonle Bati & Ta Prohm Temples
Day trip to the quieter Angkor-era temples south of the capital.
Drive to Tonle Bati(45 minutes)
33 km south. Tuk-tuk $15-20 return
Ta Prohm temple (Tonle Bati)(1 hour)
$3. Not the famous Angkor Ta Prohm — this is a smaller 12th-century temple. Fewer tourists, peaceful atmosphere
Yeay Peau temple(30 minutes)
Adjacent to Ta Prohm. Free. Small but historically significant
Picnic lunch at Tonle Bati lake(1 hour)
Locals picnic on stilted platforms over the lake. Rent one for ~$2 and order grilled fish
Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre(2 hours)
$5. Nearby sanctuary with rescued sun bears, elephants, and gibbons. Ethical operation run by Wildlife Alliance
Street Food Crawl & Photography
A day dedicated to Phnom Penh's incredible street food scene.
Morning: Bai sach chrouk at Norodom Blvd stall(30 minutes)
Grilled pork rice. $1.50
Mid-morning: Num banh chok at Phsar Kandal(30 minutes)
Khmer noodles with green curry. $1
Lunch: Lok lak (pepper beef) at a riverside restaurant(1 hour)
$4-6. The pepper dipping sauce is quintessentially Cambodian
Afternoon: Fresh sugar cane juice walk(20 minutes)
$0.50. Street carts press it fresh
Dinner: Night market seafood(1.5 hours)
Diamond Island riverside area. Grilled prawns, fried crab, papaya salad. $5-10
Rest & Riverside
Free day. River cruise and relaxation.
Mekong sunset cruise(1.5 hours)
$5-10 per person. Small boats depart Sisowath Quay at 5PM. Watch the sunset from the river confluence
Last Full Day — Favorites
Return to what you loved. Final shopping and farewell dinner.
Souvenir shopping(1.5 hours)
Kampot pepper, silk scarves, silver, Cambodian coffee at Artisans d'Angkor
Farewell dinner at Topaz(2 hours)
French-Cambodian fine dining. $15-25 per main. PP's most acclaimed restaurant
Departure Day
Final morning and airport transfer.
Last num banh chok breakfast(30 minutes)
$1
Orussey Market spices(45 minutes)
Kampot pepper $3/bag
Grab to PNH airport(30 minutes)
$5-7
21-Day Phnom Penh Itinerary
Arrival & Riverside
Arrive at PNH, settle in, explore Sisowath Quay.
VOA(30 minutes)
$30 + photo
Royal Palace & Museum
Palace complex and Khmer art.
Royal Palace(2 hours)
$10
National Museum(1.5 hours)
$10
S-21 & Killing Fields
Genocide memorial visits.
S-21(2 hours)
$5
Choeung Ek(2 hours)
$6
Markets & BBQ
Art deco Central Market, Russian Market, Cambodian BBQ.
Silk Island
Mekong island day trip.
Cooking Class
Learn Cambodian cuisine.
Cooking class(4 hours)
$15-25
Rest Day
Free day. Spa and relaxation.
Bodia Spa(2 hours)
$20-40
Oudong Day Trip
Former capital 40 km north.
Heritage Walk & Nightlife
Colonial architecture tour and Bassac Lane bars.
Walking tour(3 hours)
$15
Tonle Bati Temples
Angkor-era temples and wildlife rescue.
Ta Prohm temple(1 hour)
$3
Phnom Tamao Wildlife Centre(2 hours)
$5
Bus to Kampot
Move south to the riverside colonial town of Kampot — pepper farms and caves.
Bus to Kampot(3.5 hours)
$8-12 on Giant Ibis or Mekong Express. Comfortable, wifi
Check in riverside guesthouse(30 minutes)
Rooms from $15. The old French quarter by the river is the best area
Walk Kampot's colonial quarter(1.5 hours)
Crumbling French buildings, art deco cinema, quiet riverside. Kampot is what PP was 20 years ago
Sunset at Old Bridge(1 hour)
The old French bridge over the river with views of Bokor Mountain
Kampot Pepper & Caves
Visit the farms producing the world's best pepper, plus limestone caves.
Kampot pepper farm tour(2 hours)
La Plantation or Starling Farm. Free or $5. Learn why Kampot pepper is protected by geographical indication like champagne. Buy directly — $5-15/bag vs. $25+ abroad
Phnom Chhngok cave temple(1 hour)
7th-century temple inside a limestone cave. $1. Dramatic stalactites and pre-Angkor ruins. 8 km from town
Lunch at Rikitikitavi(1 hour)
Riverside restaurant. Western-Khmer fusion $4-8. The terrace river views are the best in town
Bokor Mountain sunset(3 hours)
Drive or motorbike up the abandoned French hill station (1,080m). Ghost town casino, pagoda with coastal views, and mist-wrapped atmosphere. Entry $1
Kep & Rabbit Island
Coastal town famous for crab and a laid-back island escape.
Drive to Kep(30 minutes)
25 km from Kampot. Tuk-tuk $10
Kep Crab Market(1 hour)
Fresh crab with Kampot pepper sauce — $5-8 per crab. Pick yours from the tanks, eat at waterfront tables
Boat to Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island)(20 minutes)
$8 return. Rustic beach with hammocks and basic bungalows. Bring snorkel gear
Beach time on Rabbit Island(3 hours)
Swim, nap in hammocks, eat grilled fish from beachside shacks. No wifi, no ATMs — just sand and sea
Rest Day in Kampot
Gentle day. River kayaking and sunset drinks.
Morning kayaking on Kampot River(2 hours)
$8-12 per person. Paddle past mangroves and fishing villages
Brunch at Epic Arts Cafe(1 hour)
Social enterprise employing deaf and disabled artists. Good food, great cause. $3-5
Sunset cruise(1.5 hours)
$5. Boat trip on the river at golden hour. Some include drinks
Return to Phnom Penh
Bus back to the capital with afternoon exploration.
Morning bus to Phnom Penh(3.5 hours)
$8-12
Afternoon at Phnom Penh galleries(2 hours)
Meta House (free, German-run cultural center with exhibitions and film screenings) and Sa Sa Art Projects
Street Food Deep Dive
Full day eating through PP's street food scene.
Mekong Cruise & Rural Life
Full-day Mekong River cruise to rural communities.
Mekong River day cruise(6 hours)
$25-40 per person. Visit floating villages, silk weaving communities, and riverside markets. Lunch included. Book through hotel
Rest Day
Fourth rest day. Pool, spa, gentle exploration.
Spa or traditional massage(1.5 hours)
$10-15 for traditional Khmer massage
Browse Artisans d'Angkor(1 hour)
High-quality Cambodian crafts — stone carving, lacquerware, silk. Fair trade. Near National Museum
Mekong sunset cruise(1.5 hours)
$5-10
Volunteering or Language Class
Give back or learn — spend a morning with a local community initiative.
Morning volunteer or class(3 hours)
ConCERT Cambodia matches travelers with ethical projects. Or take a Khmer language lesson — basic phrases in 2 hours. ~$10-20
Evening photography walk(1.5 hours)
Golden hour on Sisowath Quay — monks in saffron robes against the river
Last Full Day — Favorites & Farewell
Revisit favorites and farewell dinner.
Souvenirs(1.5 hours)
Kampot pepper, silk, silver, coffee
Farewell dinner at Topaz(2 hours)
French-Cambodian fine dining. $15-25/main
Departure Day
Final morning and airport transfer.
Grab to PNH(30 minutes)
$5-7
Travel Tips
Visa & Entry
E-Visa or Visa on Arrival
Most nationalities can get a 30-day tourist visa on arrival ($30 USD + 1 passport photo) at PNH airport. Alternatively, apply for an e-visa at evisa.gov.kh ($36 USD, 3 business days processing) to skip the queue. US citizens pay $30 for VOA. Passport must have 6+ months validity and 1 blank page.
transport
Tuk-Tuks and Grab Are Your Best Friends
Tuk-tuks are the quintessential Phnom Penh transport — negotiate before boarding. Typical prices: $2-3 within city center, $5-7 to the airport. Grab (Southeast Asia's Uber) offers fixed prices and is 20-30% cheaper than street tuk-tuks. PassApp is a popular local alternative. Avoid regular taxis — they often lack meters.
Budget
The Dollar Economy Works in Your Favor
Cambodia uses USD for most tourist transactions — no need to exchange money. ATMs dispense USD. Change under $1 is given in Cambodian Riel (4,100 KHR = $1). A comfortable daily budget: $30-50 for budget travelers (guesthouse $10-15, meals $2-5, attractions $5-10, transport $5-8).
Eat at Markets, Not Tourist Restaurants
Riverside restaurants charge $8-15 for dishes that cost $1.50-3 at Phsar Kandal or Orussey Market food courts. Must-try cheap eats: bai sach chrouk (pork rice, $1.50 at morning markets), num banh chok (Khmer noodles, $1), and fresh sugar cane juice (50 cents). Russian Market has the best lunch options.
Safety
Bag Snatching is the Main Risk
Motorbike-borne bag snatching is common, especially along the riverside and tourist areas. Carry bags on the building side, use a cross-body bag, and avoid using your phone while walking near roads. After dark, stick to well-lit areas and use Grab rather than walking. The area around BKK1 district is considered safest for tourists.
Local Customs
Sensitivity Around Khmer Rouge History
When visiting S-21 and the Killing Fields, behave as you would at any genocide memorial — no selfies, no laughing, dress conservatively. Many Cambodians over 50 lived through the regime and may have lost family. It's appropriate to ask respectful questions but never trivialize the experience. Tip the survivor speakers if they share their story.
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