Rome

Leonardo Express to Roma Termini(32 minutes)

14 EUR. Trains every 15 minutes. Buy at the station or online

Trastevere evening walk(2.5 hours)

Cross the Tiber into Rome's most atmospheric neighborhood. Ivy-clad medieval streets, lively piazzas, and the golden mosaics of Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere (free, 4th century). Arrive around 7PM when the neighborhood comes alive

Dinner at Da Enzo al 29(1.5 hours)

Arrive at 7PM (no reservations). The cacio e pepe (~12 EUR) is Rome's best — a simple masterpiece of pecorino, black pepper, and pasta. Also try the gricia. Portions are generous. One of Rome's most authentic trattorias

Colosseum with arena floor access(2 hours)

24 EUR with arena floor, book timed entry at coopculture.it. Audio guide 5.50 EUR. Arrive at opening (9AM) for fewer crowds. The underground hypogeum tour (9 EUR extra) shows where gladiators and animals waited

Roman Forum and Palatine Hill(2 hours)

Included in Colosseum ticket. Walk the Sacred Way through the ruins of temples, basilicas, and triumphal arches. Palatine Hill has the best views over the Forum — the Farnese Gardens at the top are peaceful

Lunch at Roscioli Salumeria in Centro(1 hour)

Deli-restaurant with the finest Italian ingredients. Carbonara (14 EUR) made with guanciale, not bacon. Or assemble a charcuterie plate at the counter. Reserve for sit-down

Pantheon(45 minutes)

5 EUR. The 2,000-year-old dome with its oculus open to the sky. Best on a rainy day when water streams through. The perfect concrete dome has no structural steel — pure Roman genius

Evening gelato walk to Trevi Fountain(1.5 hours)

Gelato at Fatamorgana (3-4 EUR, near Pantheon), then walk to Trevi Fountain — visit after 9PM when it's illuminated and less crowded. Throw a coin over your left shoulder with your right hand

Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel(3.5 hours)

17 EUR, book at museivaticani.va (skip-the-line). Open Mon-Sat 8AM-6PM. Allow 3-4 hours minimum. The Gallery of Maps, Raphael Rooms, and Sistine Chapel ceiling are the highlights. No bare shoulders or shorts

St. Peter's Basilica(2 hours)

Free entry. The world's largest church. Michelangelo's Pieta (behind glass, first chapel on the right), Bernini's baldachin, and the dome climb (10 EUR elevator + 320 stairs, or 8 EUR all 551 stairs). The dome view is Rome's best panorama

Lunch at Bonci Pizzarium near Vatican(45 minutes)

Gabriele Bonci's pizza al taglio (by the slice, from 5 EUR). Inventive toppings on impossibly light dough. The mortadella pizza and burrata pizza are legendary. Takeaway only — eat at the standing counter or nearby benches

Castel Sant'Angelo exterior and Ponte Sant'Angelo bridge(45 minutes)

The bridge with Bernini's angel sculptures leading to the cylindrical fortress is one of Rome's most romantic walks. 14 EUR to enter the castle (optional) — the rooftop terrace has 360-degree views

Borghese Gallery(2 hours)

15 EUR with mandatory 2-hour timed reservation — book weeks ahead at galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it. Bernini's Apollo and Daphne, Caravaggio's Boy with a Basket of Fruit. One of the world's most concentrated art experiences

Villa Borghese Gardens stroll(1 hour)

Free. Rome's Central Park. Rent a rowing boat on the lake (3 EUR/20 minutes), visit the Pincio terrace for views over Piazza del Popolo, or just walk the shaded paths

Spanish Steps and Via Condotti(1 hour)

The 135 steps connecting Piazza di Spagna to Trinita dei Monti church. Free. Via Condotti below is Rome's luxury shopping street (window shopping is free). Babington's Tea Rooms at the base is a Roman institution since 1893 (though expensive)

Lunch at Il Margutta in the artistic district(1 hour)

Rome's first vegetarian restaurant (since 1979) on Via Margutta — the street where Audrey Hepburn's character lived in Roman Holiday. Art-filled walls. Buffet lunch 15 EUR

Piazza Navona evening(1.5 hours)

Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers. Free. The baroque piazza comes alive in the evening with street performers and artists. Skip the overpriced restaurants ON the piazza — eat one block away for half the price

Leisurely morning(2 hours)

Roman breakfast: cornetto (croissant) and cappuccino at a neighborhood bar (2.50-3.50 EUR standing). Remember — never order cappuccino after 11AM

Monti neighborhood exploration(2 hours)

Rome's bohemian quarter near the Colosseum. Vintage shops, craft workshops, and independent cafes on Via del Boschetto and Via Panisperna. The piazza at Madonna dei Monti is a great people-watching spot

Testaccio food trail(3 hours)

Rome's traditional working-class food neighborhood. Testaccio Market (Mercato di Testaccio) has the city's best street food: trapizzino at Trapizzino (3.50 EUR each — pocket pizza filled with stew), supplì (fried rice balls, 1.50 EUR) at Supplizio, and Rome's original coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew) at Flavio al Velavevodetto (14 EUR)

Evening passeggiata and drinks(1.5 hours)

Join Romans for the evening walk along Via del Corso or around the Pantheon area. Stop for an aperitivo (usually 8-12 EUR with free snacks) at Salotto 42 near the Pantheon

Via Appia Antica (Appian Way)(3 hours)

The oldest Roman road (312 BC). Rent a bike at the Appia Antica Regional Park visitors center (free on Sundays, 3 EUR/hour other days). Ride past ancient tombs, aqueduct ruins, and the countryside. The cobblestones are 2,300 years old

Catacombs of San Callisto(1 hour)

8 EUR guided tour. 20km of underground tunnels where 500,000 early Christians were buried. The frescoes are among the oldest Christian art. Closed Wednesdays. Near the Appian Way

Lunch at L'Archeologia on Via Appia(1 hour)

Restaurant in a converted ancient farmhouse on the Appian Way. Amatriciana (13 EUR) and grilled lamb. The garden terrace overlooks the ancient road

Return to center for a final neighborhood evening(2 hours)

Use the nasoni (public fountains) to refill water on the way. Spend your last evening in whichever neighborhood stole your heart — Trastevere, Monti, or the Centro Storico

Final espresso at Sant'Eustachio Il Caffe(30 minutes)

Near the Pantheon. Their gran caffe (2.70 EUR at the bar) is considered Rome's best. They pre-sweeten it — order 'amaro' if you want it without sugar. Stand at the bar like a Roman

Last-minute souvenir shopping(1 hour)

Eataly at Roma Termini for Italian food gifts (pasta, olive oil, truffle products). Or Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio near the Pantheon for artisan chocolates since 1850

Leonardo Express to Fiumicino(32 minutes)

14 EUR from Termini. Allow 3 hours before international flights

Trastevere evening(2.5 hours)

Medieval streets, Santa Maria basilica mosaics

Dinner at Da Enzo al 29(1.5 hours)

Cacio e pepe ~12 EUR. Arrive at 7PM

Colosseum with arena floor(2 hours)

24 EUR. Book at coopculture.it

Roman Forum and Palatine Hill(2 hours)

Included in ticket

Lunch at Roscioli Salumeria(1 hour)

Carbonara 14 EUR

Pantheon(45 minutes)

5 EUR

Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel(3.5 hours)

17 EUR. Book at museivaticani.va

St. Peter's Basilica and dome(2 hours)

Free entry. Dome 10 EUR

Lunch at Bonci Pizzarium(45 minutes)

Pizza al taglio from 5 EUR

Borghese Gallery(2 hours)

15 EUR. Book weeks ahead

Villa Borghese Gardens(1 hour)

Free. Rowing boat 3 EUR

Lunch at Il Margutta(1 hour)

Vegetarian. Buffet 15 EUR

Testaccio Market food trail(3 hours)

Trapizzino 3.50 EUR, supplì 1.50 EUR

Aperitivo at Salotto 42(1.5 hours)

8-12 EUR with snacks

Via Appia Antica cycling(3 hours)

Free bike on Sundays, 3 EUR/hour otherwise

Catacombs of San Callisto(1 hour)

8 EUR. 20km of tunnels. Closed Wednesdays

Lunch at L'Archeologia(1 hour)

Amatriciana 13 EUR. Ancient farmhouse on the Appian Way

Jewish Ghetto exploration(2.5 hours)

Europe's oldest Jewish community (since 161 BC). Visit the Great Synagogue (11 EUR, includes museum), walk Via del Portico d'Ottavia past the ruins, and eat carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style fried artichokes, 8 EUR) at Nonna Betta

Lunch at Piperno in the Ghetto(1.5 hours)

Roman-Jewish cuisine since 1860. Their artichokes are legendary (12 EUR)

Evening cooking class(3 hours)

Walks of Italy or Eataly cooking class (from 89 EUR). Learn to make fresh pasta, classic Roman sauces, and tiramisu

Train to Tivoli(1 hour)

3.60 EUR from Termini on the Roma-Pescara line

Hadrian's Villa (Villa Adriana)(2.5 hours)

10 EUR. Emperor Hadrian's sprawling 2nd-century retreat with pools, temples, and a miniature Egyptian canal. Far less crowded than central Rome ruins

Lunch in Tivoli old town(1 hour)

Trattoria del Falcone near Villa d'Este. Roman classics at provincial prices (primi 8-12 EUR)

Villa d'Este(2 hours)

10 EUR. Renaissance palace with 500 fountains in terraced gardens — water organs, cascades, and grottos. The Fountain of Neptune is spectacular

Train to Ostia Antica(30 minutes)

1.50 EUR Metro ticket to Piramide, then Roma-Lido train (same ticket)

Ostia Antica archaeological park(4 hours)

12 EUR. Complete ancient Roman city with intact mosaics, apartment buildings, amphitheater, thermopolium (ancient fast-food bar), and public baths. Much less crowded than Pompeii. Rent an audio guide (5 EUR) or download the free app

Picnic lunch inside the ruins(45 minutes)

Bring food from Rome — there's no restaurant inside but eating among 2,000-year-old ruins is unforgettable

Return to Rome for dinner at Grazia & Graziella(1.5 hours)

Trastevere trattoria with outdoor tables on a quiet piazza. Tonnarelli cacio e pepe 12 EUR, Roman-style fried cod 14 EUR

San Clemente Basilica underground layers(1.5 hours)

10 EUR for the underground. Three layers: 12th-century church on top of a 4th-century church on top of a 1st-century Roman house and Mithraic temple. You descend through 2,000 years. Near the Colosseum

Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini(1 hour)

12 EUR. Roman houses discovered under a government building, brought to life with projections, lighting, and narration. One of Rome's most innovative museum experiences. Book online

Lunch at Mercato Centrale Roma (Termini)(1 hour)

Gourmet food hall inside Termini station. Individual stalls from top Roman chefs. Trapizzino, pizza, pasta, gelato — all excellent, 5-12 EUR per dish

Ostiense street art walk(2 hours)

Rome's street art capital. Massive murals by international artists on apartment buildings. Start at Via del Porto Fluviale (the entire building is covered) and walk through the Ostiense-Marconi district. Free. The MACRO museum at La Pelanda (free) hosts contemporary exhibitions nearby

EUR district morning(2 hours)

Metro B to EUR Fermi. Mussolini's 1942 World's Fair district — striking rationalist architecture. The Palazzo della Civilta Italiana ('Square Colosseum') is now Fendi's HQ. The artificial lake and modernist buildings are fascinating

Train to Lido di Ostia (Rome's beach)(30 minutes)

Same 1.50 EUR Metro ticket. Yes, Rome has a beach. Stabilimenti (beach clubs) from 10 EUR for a sunbed. The free public sections are between them

Seafood lunch at La Vecchia Pineta on the beach(1.5 hours)

Spaghetti alle vongole (clams, 14 EUR) and fritto misto (mixed fried seafood, 16 EUR) with toes in the sand

Return for final Trastevere dinner(2 hours)

Tonnarelli at Nannarella (10 EUR) or splurge at Glass Hostaria (Michelin star, tasting menu 110 EUR). Your choice for the penultimate night

Regional train to Orvieto(1 hour)

From 9 EUR on Trenitalia. The town sits on a volcanic plateau — take the funicular from the station (1.30 EUR)

Orvieto Cathedral (Duomo)(1.5 hours)

5 EUR combo ticket. The golden Gothic facade is one of Italy's finest. Inside, the Chapel of San Brizio has Last Judgment frescoes by Signorelli that influenced Michelangelo

Orvieto Underground(1 hour)

9 EUR guided tour. A network of caves, tunnels, and wells carved into the volcanic rock over 2,500 years. The Pozzo di San Patrizio (St. Patrick's Well, 5 EUR) has a double-helix staircase descending 62 meters

Lunch at Trattoria del Moro Aronne(1 hour)

Umbrian cuisine. Strangozzi pasta with truffle (12 EUR) — Orvieto is truffle country. Local Orvieto Classico white wine

Morning revisit(2 hours)

Return to the Colosseum underground, revisit the Vatican (free last Sunday of month), or simply sit at a cafe in Piazza Navona

MAXXI Museum or Palazzo Barberini(2 hours)

MAXXI (12 EUR) — Zaha Hadid's modern art museum. Or Palazzo Barberini (12 EUR) — Caravaggio, Raphael, and Bernini in a baroque palace. Both excellent

Farewell dinner at Armando al Pantheon(2 hours)

Traditional Roman trattoria facing the Pantheon since 1961. Not a tourist trap despite the location. Vignarola (seasonal vegetable stew, 14 EUR) and abbacchio (lamb, 18 EUR). Reserve ahead

Espresso at Sant'Eustachio Il Caffe(30 minutes)

Gran caffe 2.70 EUR. Rome's finest. Stand at the bar

Souvenir shopping at Eataly Termini(1 hour)

Pasta, olive oil, truffle products, limoncello

Leonardo Express to Fiumicino(32 minutes)

14 EUR. Allow 3 hours before international flights

Trastevere evening(2.5 hours)

Medieval streets, Santa Maria basilica mosaics

Dinner at Da Enzo al 29(1.5 hours)

Cacio e pepe ~12 EUR. Arrive at 7PM

Colosseum with arena floor(2 hours)

24 EUR. Book at coopculture.it

Roman Forum and Palatine Hill(2 hours)

Included in ticket

Lunch at Roscioli Salumeria(1 hour)

Carbonara 14 EUR

Pantheon(45 minutes)

5 EUR

Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel(3.5 hours)

17 EUR. Book at museivaticani.va

St. Peter's Basilica and dome(2 hours)

Free entry. Dome 10 EUR

Lunch at Bonci Pizzarium(45 minutes)

Pizza al taglio from 5 EUR

Borghese Gallery(2 hours)

15 EUR. Book weeks ahead

Villa Borghese Gardens(1 hour)

Free. Rowing boat 3 EUR

Lunch at Il Margutta(1 hour)

Vegetarian. Buffet 15 EUR

Testaccio Market food trail(3 hours)

Trapizzino 3.50 EUR, suppli 1.50 EUR

Aperitivo at Salotto 42(1.5 hours)

8-12 EUR with snacks

Via Appia Antica cycling(3 hours)

Free on Sundays, 3 EUR/hour otherwise

Catacombs of San Callisto(1 hour)

8 EUR. 20km of tunnels

Lunch at L'Archeologia(1 hour)

Amatriciana 13 EUR on the Appian Way

Jewish Ghetto exploration(2.5 hours)

Great Synagogue 11 EUR. Carciofi alla giudia 8 EUR at Nonna Betta

Lunch at Piperno(1.5 hours)

Roman-Jewish since 1860. Artichokes 12 EUR

Evening cooking class(3 hours)

From 89 EUR. Fresh pasta, Roman sauces, tiramisu

Train to Tivoli(1 hour)

3.60 EUR

Hadrian's Villa(2.5 hours)

10 EUR. Emperor's 2nd-century retreat

Lunch in Tivoli(1 hour)

Trattoria del Falcone. Primi 8-12 EUR

Villa d'Este(2 hours)

10 EUR. 500 fountains in terraced gardens

Train to Ostia Antica(30 minutes)

1.50 EUR Metro ticket

Ostia Antica archaeological park(4 hours)

12 EUR. Complete Roman city with mosaics

Dinner at Grazia & Graziella in Trastevere(1.5 hours)

Cacio e pepe 12 EUR

San Clemente underground layers(1.5 hours)

10 EUR. Three layers spanning 2,000 years

Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini(1 hour)

12 EUR. Roman houses with projections

Lunch at Mercato Centrale Roma(1 hour)

5-12 EUR per dish

Ostiense street art walk(2 hours)

Free. Massive international murals

EUR district(2 hours)

Metro B. 'Square Colosseum' is now Fendi HQ

Train to Lido di Ostia(30 minutes)

1.50 EUR. Beach clubs from 10 EUR

Seafood lunch at La Vecchia Pineta(1.5 hours)

Spaghetti vongole 14 EUR, fritto misto 16 EUR

Train to Orvieto(1 hour)

From 9 EUR. Funicular 1.30 EUR

Orvieto Cathedral(1.5 hours)

5 EUR combo. Golden Gothic facade

Orvieto Underground(1 hour)

9 EUR. 2,500-year-old caves and tunnels

Lunch at Trattoria del Moro(1 hour)

Strangozzi with truffle 12 EUR

Frecciarossa to Napoli Centrale(1 hour 10 minutes)

From 19 EUR on Italo or Trenitalia. Book ahead for best fares

Check-in near Spaccanapoli(30 minutes)

The historic center is where the action is. Hotels from 60 EUR/night. The noise is part of the experience

Spaccanapoli and Napoli Sotterranea(3 hours)

Walk the 'street that splits Naples' through the Decumani district. Napoli Sotterranea (10 EUR) descends through 2,400 years of underground tunnels — Greek aqueducts, Roman theaters, and WWII bomb shelters

Pizza at Da Michele(1 hour)

The most famous pizza in the world. Only two options: Margherita (5 EUR) or Marinara (4 EUR). Queue for 30-60 minutes or take a number. The wood-fired oven has been running since 1870

Evening passeggiata along the Lungomare(1 hour)

Walk the Naples waterfront with Vesuvius across the bay. Castel dell'Ovo is illuminated at night. Gelato from any of the seafront vendors (from 2.50 EUR)

Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii(40 minutes)

From Napoli Piazza Garibaldi. 3.60 EUR

Pompeii archaeological site(4 hours)

16 EUR. The most complete Roman city — streets, houses, theaters, and plaster casts. Audio guide 8 EUR. Bring water and sunscreen

Lunch near Pompeii(1 hour)

Walk 5 minutes to avoid tourist traps. Hostaria di Bacco on Via Plinio for honest Neapolitan food (primi 10-13 EUR)

Return to Naples for the Archaeological Museum(2.5 hours)

18 EUR. The treasures from Pompeii and Herculaneum — mosaics, frescoes, bronzes, and the famous Alexander Mosaic. The Secret Cabinet of erotic Roman art is no longer hidden. One of the world's greatest museums

Cappella Sansevero(1 hour)

9 EUR. Book online — tiny capacity. The Veiled Christ sculpture (1753) is arguably the most technically stunning marble carving in Italy. The veil draped over the body appears transparent. Closed Tuesdays

Naples street food crawl(1.5 hours)

Frittatina di pasta (fried pasta ball, 2 EUR), cuoppo (cone of fried seafood, 5 EUR) from street vendors on Via dei Tribunali. Sfogliatella riccia at Sfogliatella Mary (3 EUR) — warm, layered, ricotta-filled perfection

Lunch at Trattoria da Nennella(1 hour)

In the Quartieri Spagnoli. Chaotic, hilarious, delicious. Pasta e patate 6 EUR. They throw bread rolls at you (really). The most fun meal in Italy

Frecciarossa back to Rome(1 hour 10 minutes)

Afternoon return. Arrive Rome by evening

Sleep in and late colazione(2 hours)

Cornetto and cappuccino at the bar (2.50 EUR standing). The Italian breakfast ritual

Afternoon at Terme di Caracalla(2 hours)

12 EUR. The massive 3rd-century Roman baths are stunning ruins — towering walls, mosaic fragments, and the scale is awe-inspiring. Far less crowded than the Forum. In summer, opera performances are held here

Evening at your favorite neighborhood(2 hours)

Return to Trastevere, Testaccio, or Monti for a farewell-to-favorites meal

Bus or car to Civita di Bagnoregio(2 hours)

Cotral bus from Rome Tiburtina via Orvieto (from 7 EUR one-way). Or hire car. The town literally crumbles a bit more each year

Walk the footbridge to Civita(10 minutes)

5 EUR entry. The 300-meter pedestrian bridge over the badlands (calanchi) leading to the village is dramatic — the town appears to float on a cloud of white tufa

Explore Civita di Bagnoregio(2 hours)

Only 10 permanent residents. Medieval houses, a single piazza, and one small church. The views from the edge over the eroded valley are otherworldly. The silence is profound

Lunch at Trattoria del Borgo in Civita(1 hour)

Simple Umbrian cooking in one of the few restaurants. Bruschetta with truffle (8 EUR), handmade pasta with ragu (10 EUR)

Morning Italian crash course(2 hours)

Dilit International House offers short workshops (from 45 EUR). Or commit to speaking only Italian today — even 'vorrei un caffe, per favore' with correct pronunciation earns genuine appreciation

Mosaics workshop(2 hours)

Studio Cassio near the Vatican (from 80 EUR) teaches traditional Roman mosaic technique. Create a small mosaic using the same materials and methods as ancient Roman artisans. Take your creation home

Lunch at Flavio al Velavevodetto in Testaccio(1.5 hours)

Built into Monte Testaccio (a hill of ancient Roman pottery shards). Cacio e pepe 10 EUR, amatriciana 12 EUR. Authentic Testaccio cooking

Evening gelato research walk(1.5 hours)

Compare your top three gelaterias for a final verdict. Fatamorgana (creative flavors like Kentucky tobacco or basil walnut), Giolitti (classic since 1890), or Il Pinguino in Testaccio (local secret). Two scoops 2.50-3.50 EUR

Morning at Porta Portese flea market (Sundays)(2 hours)

Rome's famous Sunday flea market along the Tiber. Antiques, vintage clothing, records, and Roman curiosities. If not Sunday, visit the Trastevere morning market at Piazza San Cosimato instead

Aventine Hill(1.5 hours)

Free. The Keyhole of the Knights of Malta — peer through the keyhole in the door of the Priory of the Knights of Malta on the Aventine and see St. Peter's dome perfectly framed by hedges. Then walk to the Orange Garden (Giardino degli Aranci) for the best free panorama of Rome

Lunch at Pizzeria da Remo in Testaccio(1 hour)

Rome's best pizza by many accounts. Thin, crispy, wood-fired. Margherita 7 EUR, suppli 1.50 EUR. Cash only. Opens 7PM for dinner but lunchtime is quieter

Afternoon at Galleria Doria Pamphilj(1.5 hours)

14 EUR. A private palace gallery still owned by the family. Velazquez's portrait of Pope Innocent X, plus Caravaggio, Titian, and Raphael. The audio guide by the current prince is charming and personal

Morning revisit(2 hours)

Return to the Colosseum underground, revisit the Vatican (free last Sunday of month), or sit at a cafe in Piazza Navona

MAXXI Museum or Palazzo Barberini(2 hours)

MAXXI (12 EUR) — Zaha Hadid modern art. Or Palazzo Barberini (12 EUR) — Caravaggio, Raphael in a baroque palace

Farewell dinner at Armando al Pantheon(2 hours)

Since 1961. Vignarola 14 EUR, abbacchio 18 EUR. Not a tourist trap despite the location

Espresso at Sant'Eustachio Il Caffe(30 minutes)

Gran caffe 2.70 EUR. Rome's finest. Stand at the bar

Souvenir shopping at Eataly Termini(1 hour)

Pasta, olive oil, truffle products, limoncello

Leonardo Express to Fiumicino(32 minutes)

14 EUR. Allow 3 hours before international flights. Arrivederci, Roma