
Best Time to Visit
May to July (lush greenery, sea turtle nesting) and October to November (autumn color); avoid typhoon risk August-September
Language
Japanese only; very limited English — download offline translation apps
Currency
Japanese Yen (JPY)
Time Zone
JST (UTC+9)
Airport
Yakushima Airport (KUM) — small regional airport with flights from Kagoshima, Osaka Itami, and Fukuoka
Population
~12,000 residents (island)
Climate
Subtropical to alpine (coast to mountain), annual rainfall up to 10,000mm in the interior — it rains '35 days a month' locals say
Safety Rating
Very Safe (Level 1)
UNESCO Status
UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993 for its ancient cedar forests and unique island biodiversity
Japan's oldest and largest cryptomeria cedar, estimated 2,170-7,200 years old with a trunk circumference of 16.4m. The round-trip hike is 22km and takes 8-10 hours from Arakawa Trailhead. A shuttle bus (from 1,400 JPY round trip) is required March-November. Start by 5-6AM. Moderate to strenuous difficulty — proper hiking gear and packed lunch essential.
A moss-covered primeval forest that inspired the setting of Studio Ghibli's Princess Mononoke. Multiple trail options: 1-hour loop (easy), 3-hour loop to Taiko-iwa rock (moderate), or 5-hour full course. Conservation fee: 500 JPY. The moss garden (Mononoke-no-mori) is ethereally beautiful, especially after rain. 30 minutes by car from Miyanoura Port.
Loggerhead sea turtles nest on this 1km white sand beach from May to July. Guided night observation tours (free but require registration at Yakushima Umigame-kan turtle museum, 300 JPY) let you watch turtles lay eggs — an unforgettable experience. Hatchlings emerge July-September. Flash photography strictly prohibited. The beach itself is stunning by day.
A more accessible cedar forest park with boardwalk trails ranging from 30 minutes to 2.5 hours. Conservation fee: 500 JPY. Notable trees include the Buddhasugi and Futago-sugi (twin cedars). Great alternative for those who cannot do the grueling Jomon Sugi hike. Well-maintained wooden walkways are wheelchair-friendly on the shortest course. 40 minutes by car from Anbo.
Yakushima's largest waterfall at 88m height, selected as one of Japan's top 100 waterfalls. A short 5-minute walk from the parking lot. Free viewing. The volume is most impressive after heavy rain (which is frequent). Located on the south coast road, easy to combine with a driving tour of the island. A smaller but beautiful cascade, Senpiro-no-taki, is nearby.
A massive hollow cedar stump (circumference 13.8m) named after British botanist Ernest Wilson who documented it in 1914. Step inside and look up — the opening forms a heart shape, making it one of Yakushima's most photographed spots. Located 3 hours into the Jomon Sugi trail. Free (part of the hiking trail). A magical rest stop on the long hike.
Arrive on Yakushima — a primeval island of ancient cedars and waterfalls. Rent a car and get oriented.
Arrive at Yakushima(varies)
Fly from Kagoshima (35 min) or Osaka Itami (1 hr 25 min). Or high-speed ferry Toppy/Rocket from Kagoshima (2 hrs, ~8,000 JPY). Airport is near Koseda on the east coast
Rent a car(30 minutes)
Almost essential — buses run infrequently. Compact car from 5,000-7,000 JPY/day. Book ahead as supply is limited. Island ring road is about 100km
Check-in at guesthouse in Anbo or Miyanoura(30 minutes)
Guesthouses from 6,000 JPY/night. Miyanoura is the main ferry port, Anbo has more restaurants
Afternoon drive to Oko-no-taki waterfall(1.5 hours)
Yakushima's largest waterfall at 88m. 5-minute walk from parking. Free. Most impressive after rain. Nearby Senpiro-no-taki is also beautiful
Stock up at A-Coop supermarket(30 minutes)
In Miyanoura or Anbo. Buy trail snacks, lunch supplies, and drinks for tomorrow's hiking. No convenience stores in the interior
Explore the moss-covered primeval forest that inspired Studio Ghibli's Princess Mononoke.
Drive to Shiratani Unsuikyo(30 minutes)
30 min from Miyanoura Port. Conservation fee 500 JPY. Multiple trail options available
Shiratani Unsuikyo full course hike(5 hours)
The full course to Taiko-iwa rock offers panoramic views (3-hour moderate loop). The moss garden (Mononoke-no-mori) section is ethereally beautiful, especially after rain. Well-marked trails
Packed lunch on the trail(30 minutes)
Eat at one of the rest points. Carry all trash out. No shops on trail
Afternoon rest and hot spring(1.5 hours)
Soak sore muscles at Onoaida Onsen (200 JPY) or the free seaside Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen (accessible only at low tide — check times). The outdoor ocean-side baths are unforgettable
The legendary 22km round-trip hike to Japan's oldest and largest cedar tree. Start early.
Early shuttle bus from Yakusugi Museum(35 minutes)
Shuttle mandatory March-November (1,400 JPY round trip). First bus 5AM — arrive early. Buy tickets in advance at convenience stores or online
Jomon Sugi hike (22km round trip)(9 hours)
8-10 hours total. First 8km on abandoned rail tracks (flat), then forest trail. Wilson Stump at 3-hour mark — look up inside for the heart-shaped opening. Jomon Sugi (est. 2,170-7,200 years old, 16.4m circumference) is the reward. Bring 2L water, lunch, rain gear, headlamp, warm layers
Evening rest(flexible)
You'll be exhausted. Eat at your guesthouse or a simple restaurant in Anbo. Early bed
Recovery day after the Jomon Sugi hike with easy coastal driving and beach time.
Sleep in and late breakfast(flexible)
Your legs will thank you. Stretch and hydrate
Drive the southern coastal road(2 hours)
The ring road circles the island. Stop at viewpoints for Pacific Ocean vistas and Senpiro-no-taki waterfall
Inakahama Beach(1 hour)
1km white sand beach where loggerhead sea turtles nest (May-July). Beautiful for walking any season. Turtle museum (Yakushima Umigame-kan, 300 JPY) nearby
Lunch at a seaside restaurant(45 minutes)
Try tobiuo (flying fish) — Yakushima's signature seafood. Also excellent saba (mackerel). Small restaurants dot the coastal road
A more relaxed cedar forest experience with boardwalk trails for all fitness levels.
Drive to Yakusugi Land(40 minutes)
From Anbo. Conservation fee 500 JPY. Four trail options from 30 min to 2.5 hours
Yakusugi Land 80-minute course(1.5 hours)
Well-maintained wooden boardwalks past notable trees including Buddhasugi and Futago-sugi (twin cedars). Great for those who couldn't do the Jomon Sugi hike
Evening hot spring soak(1 hour)
Yakushima has several free or cheap onsen. Try Yudomari Onsen (free, seaside) if weather permits
Explore Yakushima's diverse wildlife and river scenery.
Early morning deer and monkey watching(1.5 hours)
Drive slowly in the mountain roads — yakushika deer and yakuzaru monkeys frequently cross. The Seibu Rindo forest road is the best spot. Don't feed them
River kayaking or SUP on Anbo River(2.5 hours)
Guided tours from 7,000 JPY. Paddle through clear mountain water surrounded by ancient forest. Multiple operators in Anbo
Lunch at a Yakushima cafe(45 minutes)
The island has several charming cafes. Try Yakushima gelato made with local citrus (tankan) at Cafe Smiley
Farewell tobiuo dinner(1 hour)
Flying fish tempura, fried flying fish, or flying fish tsukudani (preserved). Try at a local izakaya in Anbo or Miyanoura
Final morning on Yakushima.
Last coastal drive and photo stops(1 hour)
One final loop past waterfalls and ocean views
Return rental car(15 minutes)
Return to airport or port location
Depart Yakushima(varies)
Flight to Kagoshima (35 min) or ferry (2-4 hours). Connect to mainland Japan from Kagoshima
Most Western passport holders receive 90-day visa-free entry. Complete Visit Japan Web registration before arrival. Yakushima is reached by air from Kagoshima (35 min), Osaka Itami (1 hr 25 min), or by high-speed ferry from Kagoshima (2-4 hours).
Public buses exist but run infrequently (1-3 times per day on some routes). A rental car is almost essential — book in advance as supply is limited. Compact car from 5,000-7,000 JPY/day. The island ring road is about 100km. Some trailhead roads are narrow and steep. Drive slowly — yakushika deer and yakuzaru monkeys cross roads.
March to November, private cars cannot access the Arakawa Trailhead for the Jomon Sugi hike. A shuttle bus from Yakusugi Museum (1,400 JPY round trip) is required. Buses depart from 5AM — arrive early. Purchase tickets in advance at convenience stores or online. The bus ride takes 35 minutes. Check timetables at yakushima-tozan.com.
Yakushima receives some of the heaviest rainfall in Japan — up to 10,000mm annually in the mountains. Quality rain jacket, waterproof pants, and waterproof boots are essential for any hike. Rental shops near ports offer full hiking gear sets (2,000-3,000 JPY/day). Rain makes the moss-covered forests even more magical, so don't let it deter you.
Limited supply drives up prices: guesthouses from 6,000 JPY/night, restaurants limited and pricier than cities. Guided hikes cost 10,000-15,000 JPY/person (recommended for Jomon Sugi). Pack food from the A-Coop supermarket in Miyanoura or Anbo for trail lunches. There are no convenience stores in the interior — stock up before heading to trailheads.
The Jomon Sugi hike is 22km and takes 8-10 hours — underestimating it is the most common tourist mistake. Start by 5-6AM, carry headlamp, 2L water, lunch, rain gear, and warm layers (mountain temps can be 10°C lower). Trail is well-marked but conditions change fast. Register your hiking plan at the trailhead. Mountain rescue is slow due to remoteness.
StoriesDay 1: a coastal onsen. Day 2: the Mononoke forest. Day 3: 22km to see a 3,000-year-old tree. Day 4: sea turtles at dawn. The unfiltered journal.
SeasonalYakushima gets 10 meters of rain a year. The locals say it rains 35 days a month. And the forest looks its absolute best when it's soaking wet.
StoriesHaruki has worked in Yakushima's forests for 18 years. He guides visitors to trees older than civilization and has opinions about the tourists who treat them like selfie backdrops.