12 Things to Do in Ljubljana (From Someone Who Keeps Coming Back)
I've been to Ljubljana four times now. Four. For a city most people can't place on a map, that probably needs explaining.
Here's the short version: it's small enough to cross on foot in twenty minutes, the centre is car-free so you can actually hear the river, and a pint costs about the same as it did in 2015. After Rome and Barcelona chewed me up, Ljubljana felt like a city that wasn't trying to extract anything from me. I just liked being there.
So here's my running list. Not the polished tourist-board version — the stuff I actually do.
1. Cross the Triple Bridge at night, then again in daylight
Jože Plečnik — remember that name, the whole city is basically his — designed three bridges fanning out side by side from Prešeren Square. The Triple Bridge (Tromostovje) is free, always open, and the absolute centre of everything. By day it's a river of selfie sticks. After dark, when the stone balustrades light up and the crowds thin, it's genuinely lovely. Do both. They're different cities.
2. Hike up to the castle instead of paying for the funicular
Everyone takes the funicular. The combined funicular-plus-castle ticket runs about €16, and honestly, the funicular is a 60-second novelty. The wooded path up from the old town takes maybe 10 minutes and it's free. Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski grad) is 900 years old, the watchtower views over the red roofs and the Alps are the best in the city — the same castle-over-a-river-town spell that Český Krumlov casts in Bohemia — and you'll still pay for the castle exhibits if you want them. Climb up, ride down if your knees complain. Open daily, roughly 9AM to 8PM, shorter in winter.
3. Find the four dragons
The Dragon Bridge (Zmajski most) is the city's unofficial mascot — an Art Nouveau bridge with four copper dragons snarling at each corner. Free, open, takes 15 minutes. Local legend says the dragons wag their tails when a virgin crosses, which is exactly the kind of thing a tour guide says to make a group of adults giggle. Shoot it from the riverbank just downstream for the good angle.
4. Eat a Kranjska sausage standing up at Klobasarna
Skip the white-tablecloth places for at least one meal. Klobasarna is a hole in the wall doing the proper Carniolan sausage (Kranjska klobasa) and štruklji — rolled dumplings — for around €6. You eat it at a counter. It is better than dinners I've paid €40 for. This is the move when you're hungry between sights and don't want a whole production.
5. Do the Central Market on a Saturday morning
Plečnik designed the riverside Central Market and its covered colonnade, and Saturday morning is when it's alive — Slovenian cheese, forest honey, pumpkin-seed oil, piles of produce. It's free to wander. The thing you cannot miss is the mlekomat, a vending machine that dispenses fresh raw milk. Bring a euro and a small bottle. One catch: the market is closed Sundays, and so are most shops in town, so plan your shopping for Saturday.
6. Get pleasantly lost in Metelkova
Metelkova Mesto is a former army barracks that squatters turned into an autonomous art district in the early 90s, and the city never reclaimed it. Every surface is covered in murals, mosaics, and welded-metal sculpture. By day it's free, quiet, and a little post-apocalyptic in the best way — wander it for the street art. By night it's the city's grungy live-music heart — it scratches the same itch as the ruin bars of Budapest, just smaller and weirder. It looks sketchy and is, in fact, perfectly safe. Just keep an eye on your pockets in the evening crowd.
7. Take the slow boat down the Ljubljanica
A 45-minute boat cruise (around €12) glides you under every one of Plečnik's bridges from water level. I know, I know — boat tours are touristy. But the city was built facing this river, and seeing it from below the willows reframes the whole place — the same trick that makes alpine Annecy so photogenic. Late afternoon light is the one to catch.
8. Spend a morning in Tivoli Park
Tivoli is Ljubljana's big green lung, 10 minutes from the centre and open 24/7 for free. Walk the Jakopič Promenade — a wide tree-lined path that doubles as an open-air photo gallery — up to Tivoli Mansion. On weekends locals jog, picnic, and walk improbably small dogs. Bring a coffee and just sit. Not everything needs to be an attraction.
9. Have lunch with a conscience at Druga Violina
On Stari trg, Druga Violina is a social-enterprise gostilna that employs people with disabilities, and it happens to do the best honest Slovenian home cooking in the old town — ričet (a barley-and-bean stew) and beef goulash for around €12. Good food, good cause, no preachiness about either. Book ahead in summer; it's tiny.
10. Find Cobblers' Bridge when the crowds get to you
Upstream of the Triple Bridge madness sits Cobblers' Bridge (Čevljarski most), another Plečnik design — a pedestrian bridge lined with stone pillars, named for the medieval shoemakers who worked here. It's quiet. You can lean on the railing and watch the river without anyone's selfie stick in your ear. This is where I go when the centre feels too busy.
11. Day-trip to Lake Bled (but go early)
Yes, it's the postcard. A teardrop island with a church, a clifftop castle, the Alps behind. Buses leave the Ljubljana station roughly hourly and cost about €7, dropping you lakeside in an hour. Row out on a traditional pletna boat (€18 return), ring the wishing bell, then eat a kremšnita — the original Bled cream cake, custard and cream on flaky pastry, perfected at Hotel Park in 1953 — for around €5 with a lake view. If you've legs left, the Vintgar Gorge boardwalk (€10, open April to November) 4km away is the better half of the day. Go on the first bus. By 11AM it's a coach park.
12. Go underground at Postojna and Predjama
If you've got a spare day, southwest of the city is Slovenia's other showstopper: Postojna Cave, a 5km karst system you enter by riding an underground electric train (€31.90). Look for the olm, the blind cave salamander locals call the 'human fish'. Pair it with Predjama Castle (€17.90), a fortress wedged improbably into the mouth of a cliff cave 9km away. A combined ticket runs about €42.90 and the shuttle links the two. It's a long but unforgettable day.
Pro Tip
Do the maths on the Ljubljana Card before you buy it. At €36 for 24 hours or €44 for 48, it bundles the funicular, a boat ride, a guided walk, transport, and a stack of museums — genuinely worth it if you'll hit three-plus paid sights in a day. But here's the contrarian take: most of what makes Ljubljana wonderful is free. The bridges, the squares, the parks, the castle hike, the market, Metelkova. I've had whole days here where I spent money only on coffee and a sausage. Buy the card for a museum-heavy day, skip it for a strolling one. And refill your water bottle at the public fountains — the tap water here is excellent and free, and buying bottled in a city this green feels almost rude.
