I've visited Accra four times since 2019, including a two-month stay. These are the questions I get asked most, answered with the unfiltered honesty that Google reviews can't give you.
Almost certainly yes. US, UK, and EU citizens all need a visa. Apply online via Ghana's e-Visa portal at www.ghana.gov.gh — processing takes 5-10 business days and costs $60-150 depending on your nationality. US citizens pay $160 for a single entry.
Don't risk the "visa on arrival" option. It exists for some nationalities but the process at Kotoka Airport is inconsistent. Apply in advance and save yourself the anxiety.
Q: Is the airport easy to navigate?
Kotoka International Airport (ACC) is fine. Not great, not terrible. Immigration can take 30-60 minutes depending on your arrival time. Get a local SIM card (MTN or Vodafone, ~30 GHS with data) at the arrivals hall before leaving — you'll need it for Bolt/Uber and navigation.
Order a Bolt from the arrivals area. A ride to Victoria Island or Osu runs 40-80 GHS. Do not take the taxis waiting outside the terminal unless you want to negotiate aggressively for triple the fair price.
Q: How bad is Accra traffic, really?
Bad enough that I've had a 10 km ride take two hours. The locals call it "go-slow" and they mean it. Rush hours (7-9 AM, 4-7 PM) are the worst, but random jams happen at any time. Plan your day around traffic — or better yet, stay near the areas you want to explore.
Bolt and Uber work well and cost 15-40 GHS within the city. Tro-tros (shared minibuses) are 3-5 GHS but crowded and slow. They're an experience, though — I rode one from Osu to Jamestown and the preacher onboard was more entertaining than any podcast.
Q: Is Accra safe?
Ghana is consistently rated one of Africa's safest countries, and Accra reflects that. I've walked around Osu, East Legon, and Cantonments at night without issues. The vibe is warm — Ghanaians are famously hospitable.
That said: use common sense. Don't walk alone at night in Jamestown, around Kwame Nkrumah Circle, or on unlit beaches. Petty theft exists. Use ATMs inside banks or malls, not standalone street machines. Don't flash expensive phones or jewelry.
Q: What cultural customs should I know?
Greetings are everything. Skipping a greeting is considered deeply rude. A simple "Good morning, how are you?" before any transaction transforms the interaction. Use your right hand for handshakes and passing items.
If you're visiting a chief's palace or shrine, dress modestly. When meeting an elder, a slight bow is respectful. And don't take photos of people without asking — especially at markets.
Q: What's the "Year of Return" about?
Ghana launched the "Year of Return" in 2019, inviting the African diaspora to visit and reconnect with their heritage. It's become an ongoing movement. Cape Coast Castle, Elmina Castle, and the W.E.B. Du Bois Center are pilgrimage sites. The annual Panafest and Emancipation Day (August 1) draw thousands. It's deeply moving, and Ghana takes the connection seriously.
Q: What should I eat first?
Jollof rice. No question. Ghana's jollof is smoky, tomato-rich, and served with fried chicken or grilled tilapia. Every Ghanaian will tell you it's better than Nigeria's jollof. (Nigerians will tell you the opposite. The rivalry is real and passionate.)
After jollof, try:
Q: Is the street food safe?
I've eaten street food on every visit and never gotten sick. The key: eat where the queues are longest (high turnover = fresh food) and make sure your meat is cooked to order. Avoid anything that's been sitting out for a long time. The chop bars (local restaurants) are fantastic — full meals for 20-40 GHS.
Q: Where's the best place to eat in Accra?
Depends on what you want. For local food, hit the chop bars in Osu or Madina — follow the smoke and the queues. For mid-range, Buka in East Legon does elevated Ghanaian cuisine. For a splurge, Santoku (Japanese-Ghanaian fusion, surprisingly good) or Coco Lounge for cocktails and small plates.
But honestly? The best meals I've had in Accra cost under 30 GHS from a woman with a charcoal grill and a smile.
Q: What are the must-see attractions?
Q: Is the Cape Coast day trip worth it?
Absolutely. Cape Coast Castle is one of the most powerful historical sites in Africa. The "Door of No Return" — the exit through which enslaved people were loaded onto ships — is a place where every visitor goes quiet. Entry: 90 GHS for non-Africans. Combine it with the Kakum National Park canopy walk (a 40-meter-high walkway through the rainforest canopy).
It's 150 km west of Accra — about 2.5-3 hours by car. Hire a driver for the day (~300-400 GHS) or take a bus. Don't try to do both Cape Coast and Kakum as a rushed day trip — give it a full day or stay overnight.
Q: Is the nightlife good?
Accra's nightlife is seriously underrated. Live music venues play highlife and Afrobeats. Republic Bar & Grill in Osu has live bands most weekends. Carbon Nightclub in East Legon is the main club scene. Firefly Lounge Bar at the Kempinski is for a more chill cocktail vibe.
Friday and Saturday nights are when Accra comes alive. Things don't really start until 10 PM and go until 4 AM. Dress well — Accra is fashion-conscious.
Q: Cash or card?
Cash is king at markets, chop bars, tro-tros, and most local businesses. International cards work at upscale hotels and restaurants, but don't rely on them.
Get a local SIM and register for MTN MoMo (mobile money). It's used for everything in Ghana — many vendors, taxis, and small restaurants accept it. It's a game-changer.
Q: What's a realistic daily budget?
| Style | Per Day |
|---|---|
| Budget (chop bars, tro-tros, budget hotel) | $30-50 |
| Mid-range (restaurants, Bolt rides, 3-star hotel) | $80-150 |
| Comfort (nice restaurants, good hotel, day trips) | $150-300 |
| Item | Detail |
|---|---|
| Currency | Ghanaian Cedi (GHS) |
| Language | English (official), Twi, Ga |
| Power | 230V, UK-style 3-pin plugs |
| Best months | Nov-Mar (dry season) |
| Time zone | GMT (UTC+0) |
| Tipping | Not expected but appreciated (5-10%) |
| Emergency | 112 or 999 |
For more on the food scene, read our 3-week Accra street food story. If you're visiting in December, our Detty December guide covers the festival season. And for a different West African experience, Lagos's Victoria Island is just a short flight away.
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