19 Azores Tips That Will Save Your Trip (And Your Swimsuit)
I ruined a white swimsuit at Terra Nostra on day one. The iron-rich hot spring water turns everything it touches a permanent shade of orange. Nobody warned me. Consider yourself warned.
The Azores are nine volcanic islands in the mid-Atlantic, belonging to but feeling like they belong to another planet entirely. They're increasingly popular — and increasingly misunderstood. Here's what you need to know before you go.
1. Rent a car on every island you visit. Public transport between towns is a few buses daily, at best. Sao Miguel car rental: 25-40 EUR/day via Autatlantis or Ilha Verde. The freedom to chase clear weather — and you will need to chase it — is essential.
2. Never plan a rigid itinerary. The biggest mistake tourists make. The Azores get four seasons in one day. A morning downpour becomes afternoon sunshine. Plan two or three options each day and go wherever the weather cooperates. Check SpotAzores webcams before driving to viewpoints — fog can hide everything.
3. Inter-island logistics require planning. SATA Air Acores flies between islands (from 50 EUR one way). Atlanticoline ferries run in summer only (from 7 EUR between central group islands). Book early in peak season — capacity is limited.
4. Download offline maps. Cell service drops in the island interiors. Google Maps works offline if you download the region first. The roads are well-maintained but winding, and GPS is your best friend on rural routes.
Weather & Packing
5. A waterproof jacket is non-negotiable every single day. I don't care if the forecast says sunny. The Azores will rain on you at some point. Accept it, layer up, and move on. The rain usually passes in 20-30 minutes.
6. Check webcams before driving to viewpoints. SpotAzores has live cameras at Sete Cidades, Lagoa do Fogo, and other key spots. A 45-minute drive to Sete Cidades is pointless if the crater is filled with fog. The webcam takes 10 seconds to check.
7. Pack layers even in summer. Valley-level temperatures are 18-25°C in summer, but altitude and wind can drop it significantly. Crater rims are exposed and windy.
Hot Springs & Swimming
8. Bring a dark swimsuit for Terra Nostra. The iron-rich geothermal pool (38°C) at Terra Nostra Park in Furnas stains swimsuits orange permanently. Dark colors hide it. White swimsuits are ruined. Entry: 10 EUR.
9. Use natural swimming pools (piscinas naturais), not open coastline. The Azores have no gentle sandy beaches — most coastline is volcanic rock with powerful Atlantic swells. Designated natural pools have built-in ladders and breakwaters. Never turn your back to the ocean on exposed coast — rogue waves are real.
10. Santa Maria has the best actual beaches. If traditional sand beaches matter to you, the island of Santa Maria has them. The rest of the islands are primarily rocky coastline with volcanic pools.
Food & Drink
11. Eat the cozido das Furnas. Volcanic stew cooked underground using geothermal heat for 5-7 hours. Pots of meat, sausage, and vegetables are buried in volcanic soil near Furnas Lake each morning. Restaurants in Furnas village serve it for 15-20 EUR. Tony's Restaurant is the most popular — book ahead, it sells out daily. This is a must-try, full stop.
12. Visit Cha Gorreana tea plantation. Europe's oldest (1883) and only remaining tea plantation, on Sao Miguel's north coast. Free self-guided tour, free tea tasting. Open Mon-Fri 8AM-6PM, Sat 9AM-6PM. Buy loose-leaf green or black tea from 3 EUR. The rolling tea rows against the Atlantic backdrop are beautiful.
13. Try queijadas da Vila. Small cheese tarts from Vila Franca do Campo — sweet, creamy, and addictive. Available from bakeries in town for about 1 EUR each. Buy a dozen. You'll eat them faster than you think.
14. Restaurant prices are lower than mainland Portugal. Mains: 8-15 EUR. A beer: 1.50-3 EUR. Seafood is exceptional — lapas (limpets) grilled with garlic butter are a local specialty. Wine from the mainland is cheap and good.
Sightseeing Strategies
15. Visit Sete Cidades at dawn or late afternoon. The twin crater lakes (one blue, one green) are the Azores' most iconic sight. Vista do Rei viewpoint is free and 20 minutes from Ponta Delgada. Fog often rolls in by midday, so morning visits have the best odds. The caldera rim hike (12km, 4-5 hours) gives you multiple viewpoints.
16. Lagoa do Fogo is often better than Sete Cidades. Fewer visitors, equally dramatic crater lake, pristine white sand beach accessible by a steep 1.5-hour trail. Free. But it's fog-prone — check webcams. The EN5-2A road viewpoint gives the panorama when conditions allow.
17. Whale watching is extraordinary. 28 cetacean species pass through the Azores. Sperm whales are resident year-round. Blue whales visit March-June. Boat tours from Ponta Delgada: 55-65 EUR (3 hours). Futurismo has 98% sighting rates in summer. Bring seasickness medication.
Budget & Logistics
18. The Azores are affordable for Western Europe. Guesthouse doubles: 40-80 EUR. Many top attractions are free (viewpoints, tea plantation, caldeiras). Direct flights from Boston and Toronto on Azores Airlines make it accessible as a transatlantic stopover — flights from $400 round trip.
19. Don't skip Pico Island if you have time — it offers drama rivaling Reykjavik's volcanic landscapes. Portugal's highest peak (2,351m) is on Pico. The summit hike (7-8 hours, moderate-difficult) requires registration at Casa da Montanha (12 EUR July-September). The UNESCO-listed vineyard culture — black lava-walled wine plots — is unlike anything else in Europe. Faial-to-Pico ferry: 30 minutes, ~7 EUR.
Packing Essentials
Dark swimsuit (for Terra Nostra — you've been warned)
I planned a fixed itinerary. Day 1: Sete Cidades. Day 2: Furnas. Day 3: Lagoa do Fogo. The Azores laughed at my spreadsheet. Day 1 was fog. Day 2 was perfect everywhere. Day 3 was rain until 3PM then stunning sunset.
The lesson: hold your plans loosely. Have backup options. Check webcams obsessively. And bring a dark swimsuit.
The orange stain on my white swimsuit is still there. It's a souvenir, I tell myself.
