22 Amalfi Coast Tips: Stairs, Ferries & How Not to Drive the SS163
The Amalfi Coast is one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in the world. It's also one of the most logistically challenging. Pastel villages cling to cliffs connected by a road that makes hairpin turns look like gentle curves, and everything costs more than mainland Italy. These 22 tips will save you money, frustration, and possibly your life on the SS163.
Transport
1. Do NOT Rent a Car
I'm putting this first because it's the most important tip. The SS163 coastal road is single-lane in places, has blind hairpin turns with zero guardrails, and features bus drivers who treat the centerline as a suggestion. Driving it is terrifying, not scenic. Your eyes should be on the views, not the road.
2. Ferries Are the Best Way to Travel
Travelmar and NLG ferries connect Positano, Amalfi, Minori, and Salerno from April through October. Positano to Amalfi: ~8 EUR, 20 minutes (vs. 40 minutes by bus). Arriving into Positano by ferry gives you the iconic postcard view. Buy tickets at the dock.
3. SITA Buses Are Cheap but Crowded
2.40 EUR per ride. Buy tickets at tabacchi shops before boarding (not on the bus). The buses are small, the roads are winding, and motion sickness is common. Sit on the right side heading from Sorrento to Amalfi for the best views — and the most terrifying drops.
4. The Circumvesuviana Train Gets You Close
From Naples, take the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento (3.60 EUR, 70 minutes) then SITA bus or ferry from Sorrento to the coast. The train + bus combo is the cheapest route from Naples (~8 EUR total) but takes 2+ hours.
5. Private Boats Are the Luxury Move
A private boat for the day costs 150-300 EUR and lets you see the entire coast from the water — grottoes, hidden beaches, and the full panorama without traffic or stairs. Split between 4-6 people, it's surprisingly reasonable per person.
Money
6. The Amalfi Coast Is Expensive
Budget at least 150-250 EUR/person/day for mid-range travel. Hotels in Positano start at 200 EUR/night in season. A seafood lunch at a beach restaurant runs 30-50 EUR/person. This is not budget Italy.
7. Stay in Cheaper Towns
Minori, Maiori, and Amalfi town itself are 30-50% cheaper than Positano. Inland towns like Agerola and Tramonti have accommodation from 60-80 EUR/night and local restaurants at mainland prices. Bus or ferry to the famous spots from there.
8. Positano Is for Day Visits, Not Stays
Unless budget is no concern. Positano is the most expensive town on the coast. Visit by ferry, walk the 1,500+ steps, eat lunch, and ferry back to your more affordable base.
9. Water Is Expensive, Wine Is Reasonable
A bottle of water at a restaurant costs 3-5 EUR. A glass of local Falanghina white wine costs 5-8 EUR. The math favors wine.
Food
10. Eat Coastal, Not Generic Italian
The Amalfi Coast has its own cuisine. Order these:
Scialatielli ai frutti di mare — Fresh local pasta with mixed seafood
Totani e patate — Squid and potatoes, a fisherman's dish
Delizia al limone — Lemon cream pastry, the coast's signature dessert
Colatura di alici — Anchovy sauce from Cetara, used like soy sauce
11. The Lemons Are Real and They're Spectacular
The sfusato amalfitano lemons are the size of softballs and sweet enough to eat raw. Limoncello made from them is genuinely different from commercial limoncello. Visit a lemon grove for tastings (10-15 EUR at Giardini di Cataldo in Amalfi) — available March-October.
12. Sfogliatella at Pasticceria Pansa in Amalfi
Pasticceria Pansa has been open since 1830. The sfogliatella (shell-shaped pastry with ricotta filling) costs about 3 EUR and is flaky, crispy, and creamy in a way that supermarket versions can't touch.
Sightseeing
13. Path of the Gods Is the Must-Do Hike
7.8km cliff-edge trail from Agerola to Nocelle (above Positano). Free. 3-4 hours. Jaw-dropping Mediterranean views the entire way. Start from Agerola (downhill is easier). Take the bus back from Positano.
Moderate difficulty but the path is narrow with steep drops — not for vertigo sufferers. Bring water, sunscreen, and proper shoes.
14. Ravello's Terrace of Infinity
Villa Cimbrone in hilltop Ravello (8 EUR) has the Terrace of Infinity — a balcony viewpoint 350 meters above the sea that Gore Vidal called the most beautiful view in the world. 25 minutes by bus from Amalfi.
Villa Rufolo (8 EUR) next door has terraced gardens and hosts the Ravello Festival concerts (July-August). Both worth visiting.
15. The Emerald Grotto Is Capri's Blue Grotto Without the Crowds
A sea cave near Conca dei Marini where sunlight creates an emerald glow underwater. 5 EUR entry (includes a short boat ride inside). Access by elevator from the road or by boat from Amalfi (10 EUR return). Less famous, equally impressive. For more, check out our Amalfi Coast travel story.
Survival Tips
16. Prepare for Stairs
The coast is vertical. Positano has 1,500+ steps between the road and the beach. Every restaurant, hotel, and viewpoint involves climbing. Wear comfortable shoes. Leave the heels at home.
17. People with Mobility Issues: Ask Hotels About Steps
Many hotels and restaurants are only accessible by stairs — some 100+ steps from the nearest road. Always check with hotels before booking. The heat makes climbing harder in July-August.
18. July-August Is Brutally Hot and Packed
Temperatures hit 35°C, the buses are sardine cans, and Positano's beach is body-to-body. Visit in May-June or September-October for the same scenery with 50% fewer people and bearable temperatures.
19. Sunscreen Is Life
The Mediterranean sun reflects off the water and the white buildings. Apply SPF 50, reapply after swimming, wear a hat. Sunburn on day one ruins the entire trip.
20. Ferries Don't Run in Bad Weather
High seas cancel ferry services. This happens occasionally even in season. Always have a bus backup plan.
21. Book Positano for Morning, Ravello for Afternoon
Positano faces west — morning light is best for photos. Ravello's views face south and east — afternoon and sunset light is spectacular.
22. The Best Views Are Free
The coast's most spectacular panoramas don't cost a euro — the road between Praiano and Positano, the public belvedere at Conca dei Marini, and the view from the ferry as you approach Positano. You don't need to spend 200 EUR/night to see the Amalfi Coast's beauty. You just need to look up.
The Amalfi Coast is demanding. It's expensive, vertical, and logistically complex. But when you're standing on the Path of the Gods with the Mediterranean 500 meters below and pastel villages clinging to impossibly steep cliffs in every direction, none of that matters.
Just take the ferry. Skip the car. And bring comfortable shoes. If Rome is also on your itinerary, check out our Rome travel guide.
