I've been to Bergen three times. The first time, I packed an umbrella, wore canvas shoes, and budgeted like I was visiting Eastern Europe. All three of those were mistakes. Here are the things I know now that I desperately wish I'd known then. If you're exploring the region, Tromso is Norway's Arctic capital further north.
The Bybanen light rail from Bergen Flesland Airport to the city center takes 40 minutes and costs 40 NOK (~$4). A taxi is 400-500 NOK. Unless you have mobility issues or a mountain of luggage, the light rail is the obvious choice. Buy a ticket from the machine on the platform or the Skyss app. Trains run every 5-10 minutes. If you're exploring the region, Reykjavik is another Nordic gateway to dramatic landscapes.
Available at 7-Eleven or the airport — it's a reloadable card for all public transit. Individual tickets cost more than card-loaded fares. If you're staying more than a day, this saves meaningful money. If you're exploring the region, Copenhagen is the Scandinavian capital most visitors fly through.
The Bergen Card (340 NOK/24h) includes free buses, the Floyen funicular, and museum entry. If you're doing the funicular (95 NOK) + KODE museums (150 NOK) + any other museum or bus ride, it pays for itself. Don't buy it if you're just walking around and eating. If you're exploring the region, Edinburgh is another atmospheric northern European city.
Bergen wind destroys umbrellas. I watched three tourists lose theirs to a gust near Bryggen on my first morning. A proper waterproof jacket — Gore-Tex or equivalent — is the only answer. Locals don't carry umbrellas. Take the hint.
Canvas sneakers and Bergen rain are incompatible. Wear waterproof hiking shoes or boots. Your feet will thank you every single day of your trip. If you forget, buy waterproof spray at any Bergen sport shop — it's a temporary fix but better than nothing.
Bergen summer averages 15-18°C, but temperature can swing 8-10 degrees in a day. A base layer + fleece + waterproof shell lets you adjust. One heavy coat doesn't.
The Norwegian weather service (yr.no) is dramatically more accurate for Bergen than any generic weather app. Check it every morning. On rare clear days, drop everything and go to Ulriken or the fjords — sunshine is precious here.
A restaurant lunch in Bergen costs 180-250 NOK. A lunch from Rema 1000 or Bunnpris — sandwiches, salads, fresh fruit — costs 50-80 NOK. That's a 60-70% saving. I'm not saying never eat out. I'm saying eat supermarket lunch and restaurant dinner.
Not all fish market stalls charge the same prices. Walk the entire market before buying. The indoor food hall tends to be slightly cheaper than the outdoor stalls. And share portions — they're generous enough for two.
At 120-150 NOK for a massive, chunky, creamy bowl, fish soup is the single best value item at Bergen's fish market. King crab is spectacular but 250-350 NOK per serving. Start with soup, then decide if your budget can handle crab.
The fish market is touristy. Mathallen Bergen, a few blocks away, is where locals eat — similar food, better prices, no tourist markup. Also, Enhjorningen restaurant on Bryggen does excellent seafood at prices that, while still high, are more proportional to quality.
A pint costs 90-110 NOK everywhere. Accept it. But make that pint count — try local craft beers from 7 Fjell Bryggeri (Bergen's own brewery) instead of generic Carlsberg. The IPA and porter are both excellent.
This catches tourists off guard. Check opening days before walking across town to a restaurant. Supermarkets and cafes are generally open, but sit-down restaurants frequently take Mondays off.
Buy a one-way funicular ticket up (55 NOK) instead of the return (95 NOK). Walk down through the forest trails in about 45 minutes. You'll see the Troll Forest, get exercise, and save 40 NOK. The trail is well-marked and safe.
By mid-morning, cruise ship passengers flood Bryggen. At 7AM, the wooden alleyways are quiet, the light is soft, and you can actually hear the harbor sounds. Early morning is also when delivery workers move through the narrow streets — it's a glimpse of Bryggen as a working place, not just a museum.
The 5-6 hour hike connecting Ulriken to Floyen sounds amazing, and it is. But it crosses exposed alpine terrain. Do not attempt in fog, rain, or strong wind. Check yr.no first. Wear hiking boots. Bring layers, food, water, a map, and a charged phone. Tell someone your route. Snow patches can persist into June. Mobile signal is patchy.
The Mostraumen cruise (600 NOK, 3 hours) and Norway in a Nutshell tour (1,700+ NOK) sell out in summer. Book online at least a week ahead. If a cruise sells out, check for cancellation seats the day before.
The cable car summit at 643 meters is a paragliding launch point. Tandem flights cost about 1,500 NOK. If the weather cooperates (big if, in Bergen), it's a spectacular way to see the city. Book through the operators at the summit station.
Bergen's tap water is clean, cold, and delicious. Carry a refillable bottle. At 30-40 NOK per bottled water in restaurants and shops, this saves real money over a week.
If your accommodation has a kitchen, cook. A dinner at a mid-range Bergen restaurant is 300-500 NOK per person. A dinner cooked from supermarket ingredients is 80-120 NOK. Over five nights, that's a 1,000+ NOK difference.
Bryggen alleyways: free. Lake walks: free. Skostredet street art: free. Nordnes peninsula walk: free. Swimming in the fjord (summer, for the brave): free. Bergen's best experiences don't require a ticket.
Bergen is not a cheap destination. But it is a rewarding one — the kind of city that grows on you through rain and repetition, through fish soup and funicular rides, through fog-wrapped mornings and those rare, electrifying moments when the sun breaks through and every mountain and every fjord and every wooden building catches fire with light.
Bring a waterproof jacket. Leave the umbrella at home.
