I walked off the plane at El Dorado airport feeling fine. Two hours later, I was lying on my hostel bed with a splitting headache, wondering if I'd caught something on the flight. Nope. Just 2,640 meters of elevation doing its thing.
That was Bogota Lesson Number One. Here are twenty more.
Bogota sits at 2,640 meters (8,660 feet). If you're arriving from sea level — Miami, Cartagena, even Mexico City (which is lower than people think at 2,240m) — you will feel it. Shortness of breath, headaches, fatigue, maybe nausea.
Drink water constantly. Skip alcohol for the first 24 hours. Locals drink agua de panela — sugarcane water — as a remedy. I thought it was folklore until it actually helped. Most people adjust within 24-48 hours, but plan a rest day.
People hear "Colombia" and pack shorts and tank tops. Bogota's average temperature is 14-19°C. Year-round. It can drop to 8°C at night and rarely exceeds 22°C during the day. Bring a light jacket, a rain layer, and long pants. You'll look at the shorts you packed and wonder what you were thinking.
Even in the "dry" months (December-March, July-August), afternoon showers are common. Mornings are usually clear and sunny. Plan outdoor activities before noon. Carry a compact umbrella or rain jacket everywhere.
Everything is in thousands. A coffee is 5,000 COP. A nice dinner is 80,000 COP. A hotel is 250,000 COP per night. The numbers feel absurd until you remember the exchange rate: roughly 4,000 COP = $1 USD.
My trick: drop three zeros and divide by 4. So 20,000 COP = roughly $5. It's not exact but it prevents sticker shock.
Lunch is the main meal in Colombia. Nearly every restaurant offers a "menu del dia" — soup, main course, juice, and sometimes dessert. Price: 10,000-15,000 COP ($2.50-$3.75). This is how locals eat, and the food is genuinely good. Seeking these out will save you a fortune.
Unlike Cuba, Bogota has modern financial infrastructure. ATMs are everywhere (use Bancolombia or Banco de Bogota for lower fees). Most restaurants and shops accept Visa and Mastercard. Apple Pay works at chain stores. Just notify your bank about travel.
Most sit-down restaurants add a "propina voluntaria" of 10% to the bill. The waiter will ask "Desea incluir el servicio?" (Do you want to include the service?). Say yes. It's technically voluntary but expected. This IS the tip — you don't need to add more.
Registered yellow taxis are fine. But hail them from recognized stands or, better, use apps. Uber works but operates in a legal gray area — drivers may ask you to sit in front and some cancel. InDriver and Beat are fully legal alternatives. Never get in an unmarked car.
Airport to city center: 25,000-35,000 COP ($6-9) by registered taxi.
Bogota's bus system moves 2.5 million people daily. Rush hour (7-9AM, 5-7PM) is sardine-can level. Off-peak, it's fine. Buy a TuLlave card at any station kiosk (5,000 COP deposit). Single ride: 2,950 COP.
The biggest gotcha: the system map looks logical until you realize some routes only stop at certain stations. Download the TransMilenio app or ask a fellow passenger. People are helpful.
Seriously. The cobblestones in the historic center are uneven, slippery when wet (which is often), and will destroy unsuitable shoes. Wear something with grip. I saw three people fall in one afternoon.
This phrase is Colombian gospel. It literally means "don't give papaya" — don't create opportunities for thieves. Don't walk with your phone in your hand. Don't wear flashy jewelry. Don't leave bags on chair backs. Use a crossbody bag. Walk with purpose.
This isn't paranoia. It's common sense that locals follow too.
The historic center empties out after business hours. It's fine during the day — tourist police patrol actively. But by 8PM, the streets are quiet and dimly lit. If you're eating dinner in La Candelaria, have the restaurant call you a taxi. Don't walk to your hotel.
If you want to go out at night, head to the northern neighborhoods. Zona Rosa (Zona T) has bars and clubs. Zona G in Chapinero has upscale restaurants and cocktail bars. Both are well-lit, busy, and significantly safer than La Candelaria after dark.
Bogota's signature dish at Bogota's oldest restaurant (since 1816). Chicken, three types of potato, corn, guascas herb, cream, and capers. 22,000 COP ($5.50). It's hearty, warming, and perfect for the cool climate.
But here's the real move: order the chocolate completo. Hot chocolate with a chunk of cheese you drop directly in. Sounds insane. Tastes incredible. The melty, salty cheese with sweet chocolate is one of those things you have to try to understand.
Every block has someone frying empanadas. They cost 2,000 COP ($0.50). The filling is usually beef and potato. They're crispy, hot, and perfect. Don't overthink the hygiene — if there's a line, the oil is fresh and the turnover is high. That's your quality check.
Colombia has fruits that don't exist in North America or Europe. Order a jugo natural at any restaurant or street stall. My recommendations: lulo (citrus-rhubarb hybrid), maracuya (passion fruit), and tomate de arbol (tree tomato). 2,000-4,000 COP per glass.
Dinner before 8PM is unusual. Clubs don't fill up before midnight. Sunday brunch can run until 4PM. Adjust your internal clock. If a local says "let's meet at 7," arrive at 7:30 and you'll still be early.
English is limited outside upscale restaurants and hotels. Even basic Spanish — greetings, numbers, "cuanto cuesta" (how much?) — dramatically improves your experience. Bogotanos are patient and appreciative of any effort.
Colombia produces 70% of the world's emeralds. You'll see shops everywhere in La Candelaria. If you want to buy, go to a certified dealer — the Emerald Trade Center in the Centro Internacional has reputable shops. Street sellers near the Emerald Cafe on Avenida Jimenez are for looking, not buying (unless you can tell a real emerald from glass, which you can't).
Cell data is affordable (Claro SIM: 10,000 COP for a tourist plan), but having offline maps is smart for navigating La Candelaria's grid and finding TransMilenio stations.
El Dorado (BOG) is modern, clean, and efficient. Immigration is usually quick. There's a Juan Valdez cafe in every terminal (decent coffee, 5,000 COP for an Americano). The Avianca lounge is worth it for long layovers.
But here's the thing most people don't know: El Dorado has one of the most comprehensive duty-free sections in South America. Grab Juan Valdez beans, aguardiente (anise liquor), and Colombian chocolate on your way out.
Bogota is not dangerous if you use common sense. It's not cold enough for a heavy coat but you'll freeze in shorts. The food is better than its reputation. The coffee is life-changing. And the altitude is the one thing every first-timer underestimates. For more insights, check out our 12 Things to Do in Bogota That You Won't Find in the Usual Guides. For more insights, check out our seasonal guide.
Go with an open mind and a light jacket. You'll be fine.
