I've been to Iguazu Falls three times now. The first time, I showed up in flip-flops with my passport in my back pocket and no waterproof bag. I got soaked, nearly bitten by a coati, missed the two-day discount, and spent $22 on a mediocre park buffet when I could have packed empanadas from town for $3.
Don't be first-trip me. Be third-trip me.
Flip-flops on the Lower Circuit are a recipe for a sprained ankle and a viral YouTube video. The trails are wet, some have steep stairs, and the spray from the falls makes every metal surface slippery. Wear closed-toe shoes with actual grip. Water-resistant hiking sandals (Tevas, Chacos) work if you insist on open toes, but proper trail shoes are better.
Here's a detail that's weirdly hard to find online: if you visit two consecutive days, the second day is 50% off. You just need to get your ticket stamped at the exit before leaving on day one. That's it. No special line, no pre-booking. Just ask at the exit gate. This saves you about $15 USD — which is exactly enough for a Gran Aventura boat ride upgrade from the basic ticket.
The park opens at 8 AM. Tour buses from the Brazil side start pulling in around 10. By noon, the catwalk to Devil's Throat has a 30-45 minute wait for the ecological train, and the viewing platform feels like Times Square.
Arrive at 8. Head directly to Devil's Throat first. You'll have maybe 90 minutes of relative solitude before the crowds hit.
Your phone's IP68 water resistance rating was tested with fresh water in a lab. It was not tested in the mineral-laden, high-pressure spray zone of the world's largest waterfall system. Buy a waterproof phone pouch. They sell them at the park entrance for ~$5 USD, or bring one from home. Your phone will thank you.
I watched a tourist try to hand-feed a coati a granola bar. The coati took the granola bar, the wrapper, and a small chunk of the tourist's thumb. Coatis look like adorable raccoon-anteater hybrids. They are, in fact, organized criminals who have learned that tourists are easy marks.
Never feed them. Keep all food sealed and in closed bags. If one approaches, make yourself big and loud. They're not dangerous if you don't invite them in, but they will absolutely rob you if given the chance.
The park accepts cards, but many vendors in Puerto Iguazu still prefer cash. ATMs in town exist but charge withdrawal fees and sometimes run out on weekends. Bring pesos from Buenos Aires or use a no-foreign-transaction-fee card (Wise or Revolut work well here).
The Fortin buffet inside the park costs about $25 USD and serves hotel-breakfast-quality food. Instead, pack empanadas from La Feria market in Puerto Iguazu ($1 each), sandwiches, fruit, and plenty of water. There's a food court near the park entrance with slightly better options, but it's still overpriced.
The Gran Aventura zodiac ride (~$50 USD) is not included in park entry. Budget for it separately. It's worth it. Book at the Lower Circuit departure point — no need to pre-book online unless you're visiting on a holiday weekend.
If you cross to the Brazil side (and you should, for the panoramic view), it's a separate park with a separate entry fee (~$22 USD for foreigners). Plus, US citizens need a Brazil e-visa ($80 USD). Factor this into your budget. Some visitors skip it entirely and that's a valid choice — the Argentina side has better trails and closer views.
Not a suggestion. A requirement. The mist at Devil's Throat and the Lower Circuit is relentless. A proper dry bag (Sea to Summit or similar) will save your camera, lenses, and documents. Even if you think you're staying on the "dry" Upper Circuit, wind shifts happen.
Ponchos are sold at the park for ~$3 USD. They help. They don't solve the problem. You'll still get soaked from the knees down, and the poncho's hood will channel water directly into your collar. Wear quick-dry hiking clothes and accept the wetness as part of the experience.
The subtropical location means strong UV and persistent mosquitoes. The mist makes you forget about the sun until the burn appears at dinner. DEET-based bug spray works best — the natural stuff is less effective in this environment. Apply both before entering the park.
If you're staying multiple days, bring a second pair of shoes. Your day-one pair will be wet through, and there's nothing worse than putting on soggy shoes for a sunrise park visit. Stuff them with newspaper and leave them in the hotel window overnight.
Arrive at 8 AM. Take the train to Devil's Throat (Estacion Garganta del Diablo). Spend 1.5-2 hours there. Walk back to the Upper/Lower Circuit area. Do the Lower Circuit. Book the boat ride from the Lower Circuit departure point for early afternoon. Finish with San Martin Island if the shuttle is running.
Arriving day two with the 50% discount, do the Upper Circuit in morning light (best for photography). Then take the Macuco Trail — the 7 km jungle hike that 95% of visitors skip. It's quiet, beautiful, and leads to a waterfall you'll likely have to yourself.
If your dates line up with the full moon, book the nocturnal walk immediately. Tickets (~$40 USD) sell out weeks in advance. The lunar rainbow (moonbow) in the mist of Devil's Throat is one of those once-in-a-lifetime things that actually lives up to the phrase.
The Hito Tres Fronteras viewpoint in Puerto Iguazu, where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet at the river confluence, is free and best visited at sunset. Three painted obelisks mark the borders. It's touristy, sure, but watching the sun drop over three countries simultaneously while eating a $1 empanada from a street vendor is a solid way to end any day.
The emotional impact of Iguazu isn't something you can prepare for. I've traveled to 40+ countries and I'm not a person who cries at landmarks. But standing on the Devil's Throat platform, with the sound erasing every thought, the mist making everything shimmer, and the raw power of 1,500 cubic meters of water per second dropping 80 meters in front of my face — I teared up.
If you're exploring more of the region, Bariloche offers a complementary experience worth considering.
If you're exploring more of the region, Patagonia offers a complementary experience worth considering.
Not because it was sad. Because some things are so big and so beautiful that your brain short-circuits and the only response left is wet eyes and a stupid grin.
Bring the waterproof bag. Wear the right shoes. Show up at 8 AM. And let the falls do the rest.
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