The Complete Guide to Cozumel: Mexico's Premier Dive Island
Cozumel sits 19 km off the Yucatan Peninsula in the Caribbean Sea. It's 48 km long, 16 km wide, and about 90% of it is undeveloped jungle, mangrove, and ironshore coastline. The west coast faces the channel toward Playa del Carmen and has calm water, coral reef, and every dive shop and beach club on the island. The east coast faces the open Caribbean with crashing surf, empty beaches, and almost no infrastructure.
Most visitors come for the diving. The Palancar Reef — part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the second-largest in the world — is world-class. But Cozumel works for non-divers too: Mayan ruins, a scenic coastal road loop, beach clubs, and a food scene that's far better than its cruise-port reputation suggests.
Overview
San Miguel de Cozumel is the only town, on the west coast. Population ~110,000. The waterfront is dominated by cruise ship terminals (up to 8 ships daily in peak season), duty-free shops, and tourist restaurants. Walk five blocks inland and it becomes a normal Mexican town with taquerias, markets, and local life.
Best Time to Visit
March to June. Dry season, warm (28-32°C), calm seas, best diving visibility. The worst months are September-October (peak hurricane season) and November-April on high cruise-ship days.
Getting There
Direct flights: CZM airport receives flights from Dallas, Houston, Miami, Charlotte, and seasonal routes from other US cities.
Via Cancun: Fly to CUN, take an ADO bus or shuttle to Playa del Carmen (1 hour, ~US$12-15), then Ultramar or Winjet ferry to Cozumel (35 min, US$15-18 round-trip). Ferries run every 1-2 hours.
Visa: US/UK/EU/Canadian citizens enter Mexico visa-free for 180 days. Electronic FMM tourist card (free for flights) required.
Where to Stay
Budget: Hostels in San Miguel from US$15-25/night. Hotel Pepita (~US$45) is a longtime backpacker favorite.
Mid-range: Hotels on the west coast near Palancar: US$80-150/night. Hotel B Cozumel is boutique and well-located.
Luxury: Presidente InterContinental (US$200-400) on a private beach with house reef. Secrets Aura (adults-only all-inclusive, US$300+).
Dive-focused: Scuba Club Cozumel offers dive-and-stay packages from ~US$150/night including 2 tanks.
What to Do
Diving (The Main Event)
Cozumel's drift diving is legendary. The current carries you along the reef wall — you barely need to fin. Visibility regularly exceeds 30 meters (100 feet).
Top dive sites:
Palancar Gardens/Horseshoe: Towering coral formations, swim-throughs, 40-80 ft
Santa Rosa Wall: Dramatic drop-off with massive sponges, 60-100 ft
Columbia Deep: Advanced, strong current, eagle rays, 80-130 ft
Paradise Reef: Easy, perfect for night dives, 30-45 ft
A shallow sandbar with hundreds of starfish in knee-deep turquoise water. Boat tours from US$50 with snorkeling stops. Do not touch the starfish. Best mid-morning for calm water and light.
San Gervasio Mayan Ruins
A ceremonial center dedicated to Ixchel (goddess of fertility). Entry MXN$124 (~US$7). Open 8 AM-3:45 PM. Smaller than mainland sites but historically significant and uncrowded. Guide at entrance ~US$15. Allow 1.5 hours.
East Coast Road Loop
40 km scenic drive past wild beaches and roadside bars. Rent a scooter (US$25/day) or Jeep (US$50/day).
Chen Rio Beach: Calm swimming in a natural rock pool. Beach restaurant with cerveza and ceviche.
Coconuts Bar: Laid-back east coast bar with ocean views. Good for a drink stop.
Mezcalitos: Beachfront seafood and mezcal.
Beach Clubs (West Coast)
Money Bar: Free entry, buy food/drinks. Best house reef for snorkeling.
Paradise Beach: Entry ~US$5. All-you-can-drink from US$55. Pool and water toys.
Mr. Sanchos: All-inclusive (US$55). Pool, beach, kayaks, snorkeling.
Go on low cruise-ship days for the best experience.
Food
Cozumel's food ranges from cruise-terminal tourist traps to excellent local Mexican cuisine. The key: walk away from the waterfront.
Must-eat:
Fish tacos at any San Miguel taqueria (MXN$15-30 per taco, ~US$1-2)
Ceviche at a market stall (MXN$60-100, ~US$3.50-6)
Cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pork) in tortillas (MXN$40-60)
Marquesitas (crispy rolled crepes with Nutella and cheese, MXN$30-50) — a Yucatecan street dessert
Budget: US$15-25/day eating at local spots.
Mid-range: US$30-50/day mixing local and restaurant meals.
Budget Breakdown
Category
Budget
Mid-Range
Comfort
Accommodation
US$25-45/night
US$80-150/night
US$200-400/night
Food/day
US$15-25
US$30-50
US$60-100
Diving (2-tank)
US$80-100
US$80-100
US$80-100
Transport
US$25/day (scooter)
US$50/day (Jeep)
US$50+/day
Activities
US$7-50
US$50-100
US$100+
Safety
Cozumel is one of Mexico's safest destinations. Island crime is very low. Main risks: sunburn, scooter accidents (wear helmet, watch for sand on roads), east coast rip currents (swim only at Chen Rio and Playa Bonita), and tap water (don't drink it).
Reef-safe sunscreen is increasingly required in the marine park.
Getting Around
Rent a scooter (US$25/day) for the coastal loop and town. Jeep (US$50/day) for interior roads. Taxis have fixed prices that are expensive for short trips. No Uber on the island.
The Cruise Ship Question
Up to 8 cruise ships dock daily November-April. On high-ship days (15,000+ day-trippers), the waterfront, popular reefs, and beach clubs are overcrowded. On zero-ship days, the island is a different place entirely.
Check cruiseshipschedule.com and plan accordingly. If you can choose your dates, aim for Tuesday or Wednesday, which typically have fewer ships.
English is widely spoken in tourist areas and dive shops. Spanish earns you better prices and bigger smiles.
If you're exploring more of Mexico, Tulum offers a completely different experience worth considering.
If you're exploring more of Mexico, Isla Holbox offers a completely different experience worth considering.
The Bottom Line
Cozumel is two islands. One is a cruise ship port with overpriced jewelry shops and tourist-trap restaurants. The other is a world-class dive destination with empty east-coast beaches, $1 tacos, and a Mayan archaeological site where you'll have entire temples to yourself.
The second island appears at 5 PM when the cruise ships leave, and on the blessed days when no ships dock at all. That's the Cozumel worth visiting.
