The Complete Ho Chi Minh City Guide: Saigon From Street Level
Everyone still calls it Saigon. The government officially renamed it Ho Chi Minh City in 1976, but even locals use both names interchangeably. The airport code is still SGN. The most famous bar is still called Saigon Saigon. Don't overthink it.
This city is 9.3 million people, 8 million motorbikes (approximately), and one of the most exhilarating urban experiences in Southeast Asia (rivaled only by ). Here's everything you need. For a personal take, read our .
HCMC is Vietnam's largest city and commercial engine, sprawled across the Saigon River delta in southern Vietnam. It's loud, hot, chaotic, and extraordinarily cheap. The French colonial architecture in District 1 gives it a visual elegance that the traffic situation contradicts entirely. The war history is sobering. The food is life-changing. The motorbikes are a religion.
Best Time to Visit
December to April — Dry season, lower humidity, temperatures around 25-33°C. This is peak season but HCMC doesn't get as crowded as beach destinations.
May to November — Wet season. Daily afternoon downpours (usually 30-60 minutes), higher humidity. But prices drop and the rain cools things down. I've visited in September and it was fine — you just plan indoor activities for 3-5PM.
HCMC is hot year-round. There's no cold season. Accept the sweat.
Getting There
Tan Son Nhat International Airport (SGN) is just 8 km from District 1 — one of the most convenient airports in Asia.
Airport to city center: Grab (Southeast Asia's Uber) costs 120,000-160,000 VND ($5-6.50). Download the app before landing. The official taxi stand uses Mai Linh and Vinasun (metered, reliable), but Grab is cheaper. Never follow the touts outside the terminal — they'll quote 300,000+ VND for the same trip.
Where to Stay
District 1 — Tourist center. Walking distance to most major sights. Ben Thanh Market, Bui Vien backpacker street, Notre-Dame Cathedral all here. Stay here if it's your first visit.
District 3 — More local, residential, slightly cheaper. Walking distance to District 1 but quieter. Some of the best local restaurants are here.
District 4 — Across the bridge from District 1. The real foodie neighborhood. More local, less polished, incredible street food.
District 7 (Phu My Hung) — Modern, suburban, malls. Good for families. Far from the action.
What to Do
History
Cu Chi Tunnels — 250 km of underground tunnels used by Viet Cong guerrillas. Two sites: Ben Dinh (more touristy, 110,000 VND / ~$4.40) and Ben Duoc (more authentic, 90,000 VND). You'll crawl through widened tunnel sections. 70 km from the city — half-day tours cost 200,000-500,000 VND. Book locally, not through hotels.
War Remnants Museum — 40,000 VND entry. The photojournalism exhibits and Agent Orange section are devastating and essential. In District 3. Allow 2-3 hours. Don't skip this.
Independence Palace — Where the tank crashed through the gates on April 30, 1975. 65,000 VND. The basement war rooms are frozen in time. The rooftop helicopter is the one that was used for the final evacuation.
Culture
Notre-Dame Cathedral & Central Post Office — Adjacent French colonial landmarks. The cathedral (1880) is under renovation. The Eiffel-designed post office with its arched interior is stunning and functional. Free.
Ben Thanh Market — Iconic covered market since 1912. Bargain hard — start at 30-40% of asking price. The surrounding street food stalls serve banh mi from 15,000 VND (~$0.60). Night market outside runs until 11PM.
Nightlife
Bui Vien Walking Street — The backpacker strip. Bia hoi (fresh draft beer) from 10,000 VND (~$0.40). Pedestrian-only 7PM-2AM weekends. It's messy, loud, and fun.
Rooftop bars — Saigon Saigon Bar (Caravelle Hotel), Chill Skybar, and Glow Rooftop Lounge. Cocktails 150,000-300,000 VND. The skyline views at sunset are worth the premium.
Food
HCMC might be the cheapest great food city on Earth.
Banh Mi Huynh Hoa — The city's most famous banh mi. 55,000 VND (~$2.20). Always a queue. Always worth it. The bread is impossibly crispy, the pate is smooth, the chili sauce sets your lips on fire.
Com Tam (broken rice) — Served with grilled pork chop, egg, and fish sauce. 35,000-50,000 VND at street stalls. The charcoal-grilled version at any com tam stall in District 4 is peak lunch.
Pho — Yes, pho. A bowl costs 40,000-60,000 VND. Southern-style pho has more herbs and a slightly sweeter broth than Hanoi's version. Try Pho Le on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street.
Bun Mam — Fermented fish noodle soup. Smells intense, tastes incredible. A District 4 specialty. 35,000-45,000 VND.
Ca Phe Sua Da — Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed milk. 15,000-25,000 VND at street stalls. Possibly the best iced coffee format in the world. Strong, sweet, addictive.
Budget eaters can do three full meals for under $5/day. I'm not exaggerating.
Getting Around
Grab is essential. Motorbike (GrabBike) for solo travelers: 15,000-40,000 VND for most rides. Car: 30,000-80,000 VND.
Walking works in District 1, but crossing the street is an art form. The technique: step off the curb, walk at a steady pace, and do NOT stop or run. The motorbikes flow around you. This terrifies everyone on Day 1 and becomes second nature by Day 3.
Safety
Bag snatching is the main risk. Motorbike riders grab phones and bags from pedestrians and motorbike passengers. Carry bags on the building side, not the road side. Don't use your phone near the curb. Use a crossbody bag. This happens to locals too — it's not targeting tourists.
HCMC is otherwise very safe. Violent crime against tourists is rare.
Budget
Category
Daily Budget
Hostel dorm
150,000-250,000 VND ($6-10)
Budget hotel
400,000-800,000 VND ($16-32)
Street food x3 meals
80,000-150,000 VND ($3.20-6)
Restaurant meals x3
300,000-600,000 VND ($12-24)
Transport (Grab)
100,000-200,000 VND ($4-8)
Museum entries
100,000-200,000 VND ($4-8)
Total budget traveler: $15-25/day. Mid-range: $40-60/day.
Useful Phrases
Xin chao (sin chow) — Hello
Cam on (kahm uhn) — Thank you
Bao nhieu (bow nyew) — How much?
Dat qua (dat qwa) — Too expensive
A little Vietnamese goes a long way. People warm up immediately.
The Bottom Line
Saigon is not a relaxation destination. It's an immersion. The noise, the heat, the traffic, the food, the history — it all hits at once and doesn't let up. But if you lean into it instead of fighting it, HCMC rewards you with one of the richest urban experiences in Asia.
Cross the street. Drink the coffee. Eat the banh mi. Visit the museum. Then go back for another banh mi. For the full tips list, read 17 things nobody tells you about HCMC. Planning a broader Vietnam trip? Hanoi and Da Nang are essential stops.
