The Complete El Nido Travel Guide: Lagoons, Islands, and Everything Between
Let me save you the suspense: El Nido is as good as the photos suggest. The limestone karsts really are that dramatic. The water really is that blue. And yes, you will take 400 photos on your first island-hopping tour and every single one will look like a desktop wallpaper.
But — and this is important — El Nido can also be frustrating if you don't know the logistics. ATMs run dry. The road from Puerto Princesa takes five soul-testing hours. And the standardized tour system, while convenient, means you'll share the Big Lagoon with 30 other boats at peak hour.
Here's how to do it right.
Overview
El Nido is a small town on the northern tip of Palawan island in the western Philippines. The town itself is scrappy — one main street, a handful of decent restaurants, and a beach that's honestly not great for swimming. The magic is offshore: an archipelago of limestone islands hiding lagoons, secret beaches, and some of the best snorkeling in Southeast Asia.
Best Time to Visit
November to May is dry season. December to February is peak — expect higher prices and full boats. March to May is hot (35°C+) but less crowded.
June to October is the wet season. Typhoons can cancel tours entirely. July-August is worst. But if you catch a dry spell, you'll have the lagoons nearly to yourself.
I went in early March. Hot, some afternoon clouds, no rain. Perfect.
Getting There
Two options, neither is quick.
Option 1: Fly to Puerto Princesa (PPS) + van. Most common. Flights from Manila on Cebu Pacific or AirAsia, PHP 2,000-5,000 one-way. Then a 5-hour van ride (PHP 600-800 / ~$11-14). The vans leave when full, which means waiting. The road is paved but winding. Take motion sickness pills if you're prone.
Option 2: AirSwift direct to Lio Airport (ENI). Small planes from Manila and Cebu, PHP 5,000-10,000 one-way. The airport is 4km from town. This saves 6+ hours but costs 3-5x more and planes are tiny — book weeks ahead.
I took the van. It was long. The scenery in the final hour, as karsts appeared on the horizon, made it worth it.
The Island-Hopping Tours
El Nido runs on four standardized island-hopping tours (A, B, C, D), each costing PHP 1,200-1,400/person (~$22-25) including lunch on a beach. You book through any of the dozens of operators on the main street — prices are essentially identical.
Tour A — The Must-Do
Big Lagoon (the iconic one — emerald water, towering cliffs, kayak rental PHP 200-300 extra)
Small Lagoon (swim through a narrow cliff opening to a calm inner pool)
Shimizu Island (snorkeling)
Secret Lagoon (tiny hidden pool)
Do this one first. Arrive early — boats leave around 9AM, and hitting Big Lagoon before 10AM means fewer crowds.
Tour C — The Close Second
Secret Beach (swim through a hole in a limestone wall to a hidden beach)
Matinloc Shrine (abandoned cliff shrine with a Secret Lagoon behind it)
Tapiutan Strait (best snorkeling of any tour — sea turtles, clownfish, reef sharks)
Helicopter Island
Tour B and D
Honest take: these are good but not essential if you're short on time. Tour B has nice beaches (Entalula, Snake Island sandbar). Tour D has Cadlao Lagoon and Nat-Nat Beach.
Beyond the Tours
Nacpan Beach
Four kilometers of golden sand, 45 minutes north of town by tricycle (PHP 500-700 round trip). Free entry. Beach bars with hammocks. The sunset here is better than anything on the tours. This was my favorite afternoon in El Nido.
Kayaking
Rent a kayak from the town beach (PHP 300-500/hour) and paddle to Cadlao Island's hidden lagoons independently. It's a workout — maybe 40 minutes of paddling — but you'll have spots entirely to yourself.
Where to Stay
Budget: Spin Designer Hostel (PHP 600-800/night dorm, clean, social). Frendz Hostel on the beach is popular but noisy.
Mid-range: Lally and Abet Beach Cottages (PHP 3,000-5,000/night, beachfront). Book ahead — El Nido fills up in peak season.
Splurge: Pangulasian Island Resort (from PHP 25,000/night). Private island, stunning, completely different universe from the backpacker town.
Food
The main street has 50+ restaurants. My picks:
Trattoria Altrove — actual good Italian. Pizza PHP 350-500.
Happiness Beach Bar — sunset beers, decent burgers, live music some nights.
Art Cafe — coffee, smoothies, reliable WiFi.
Local food: try adobo (PHP 150-200 at any carinderia) and fresh seafood at the night market near the church.
The Cash Problem
This is critical. ATMs in El Nido frequently run out of cash, especially on weekends and holidays. There are only a few machines, they have PHP 10,000-20,000 daily limits, and withdrawal fees are PHP 200-250.
Bring enough pesos from Manila or Puerto Princesa. Most hotels, restaurants, and tour operators are cash-only. I nearly got stuck on day three and had to borrow from a fellow traveler.
Budget
Category
Daily PHP
Daily USD
Dorm bed
600-800
$11-14
Food
800-1,200
$14-22
One tour
1,200-1,400
$22-25
Transport/misc
200-400
$4-7
Total
2,800-3,800
$51-68
For a mid-range private room, add PHP 1,500-2,500/night.
Safety
Wear water shoes or reef booties everywhere. Coral and sea urchins are a constant hazard. Life jackets are mandatory on all tours (provided free). Jellyfish show up June-October — bring sting cream.
Pay the PHP 200 Eco-Tourism Development Fee at the Municipal Tourism Office on Real Street. Tour operators check your receipt before departure.
El Nido is worth the effort to reach. It's not the easiest destination in the Philippines — the cash situation alone will test your patience — but when you're floating in the Big Lagoon with karsts towering 200 meters above you, you won't remember the five-hour van ride. You won't remember anything except the blue. If you're exploring more of Palawan, check out Palawan's southern islands.
