A Gangtok Local's Honest Guide: Momos, Monasteries, and the Mountain That Changes Everything
Tenzin Bhutia sells momos from a small stall near the south end of MG Marg in Gangtok. He's 34, born in the city, left briefly for college in Siliguri. For a different northeast mountain experience, and its living root bridges are another world entirely, and came back because — in his words — "Siliguri doesn't have Kanchenjunga. That's enough reason."
We talked between batches of steamed pork momos (80 INR per plate, and yes, they're as good as everyone says). He had opinions about tourists, mountains, and the right way to drink tongba.
What's the first thing tourists should do when they arrive?
"Walk to Tashi Viewpoint at sunrise. I know it's early — you need to leave by 4:30AM to get there by 5:15AM. But Kanchenjunga at dawn — the world's third highest mountain turning pink, then gold, then white — that's the reason Gangtok exists. Everything else is secondary.
The viewpoint is 8km from town, 15-minute taxi (400-600 INR one way). Free entry. Bring a jacket — it's 5,400 feet and the pre-dawn temperature can drop to 2-3C even in October. On a clear day, people say you can see Everest in the distance. I've never confirmed this but I've never denied it either."
Where are the best momos in Gangtok?
"My stall, obviously. But I'll be fair. Taste of Tibet on MG Marg does an excellent pork momo — steamed, tight-skinned, the filling has ginger and spring onion in just the right ratio. 80-120 INR per plate. The Roll House nearby is good for fried and pan-fried versions.
But the real momo experience isn't on MG Marg. Go to the stalls near Lal Bazaar on a Sunday morning. That's where the city eats. Smaller operations, no English signs, momos made by grandmothers who've been wrapping them since before tourism existed. The pork momos with the soup base — sha momo — are what Gangtok does that nobody else in India gets right.
Also try thukpa (noodle soup, 60-100 INR) at any of the Tibetan restaurants. And churpi — hard yak cheese that you gnaw on like jerky. It takes some commitment but it grows on you."
What do tourists get wrong about Sikkim?
"They treat it like a weekend. They come for two days, do Tsomgo Lake and MG Marg, take some photos, and leave. Sikkim is a state with more biodiversity than most European countries. It has over 600 species of orchids. It has red pandas. It has Buddhist monasteries that have been active since the 17th century.
Two days gives you the highlights reel. A week gives you the actual place.
Also — the permit system confuses people. Indian nationals need an Inner Line Permit for Nathula Pass, Tsomgo Lake, and some northern areas. Foreign nationals cannot visit Nathula at all. Arrange permits through any Gangtok travel agent — 1,500-2,000 INR for a day package including transport and both stops. Don't try to go independently."
Tell me about Rumtek Monastery.
"It's the largest monastery in Sikkim — seat of the Karmapa, head of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism. 24km from Gangtok, taxi about 400-600 INR one way. Free entry, donation appreciated.
The golden prayer hall is extraordinary — the murals, the butter lamp offerings, the sound of monks chanting in the main hall at morning prayers. Photography is restricted inside. The Golden Stupa containing holy relics is in a separate building.
If you time it right for Losar (Tibetan New Year), the monastery hosts Cham dances — masked, costumed religious dances that tell Buddhist stories. The masks are centuries old. The spectacle is unforgettable.
Allow 2-3 hours at Rumtek. It's not a photo stop. It's a place of living practice."
What's your favorite hidden spot?
"The walk below MG Marg through the back streets of the old bazaar area. The steep lanes where people actually live — dogs sleeping on stoops, prayer flags strung between buildings, old Sikkimese houses with carved wooden windows. Nobody walks here because it's steep and there's no attraction at the end. The walk IS the attraction.
Also, the Enchey Monastery (3km from MG Marg, free) is overlooked because everyone goes to Rumtek. It's a 200-year-old monastery on a hill with views of Kanchenjunga from the courtyard. On a weekday morning, you might be the only visitor."
What about Tsomgo Lake and Nathula Pass?
"Tsomgo is beautiful — a glacial lake at 3,753m that changes color with the seasons. Deep blue in summer, frozen white in winter. The yak rides (300-500 INR) are tourist-trap priced but the animals are well-treated and the experience is fun.
Nathula Pass is... complicated. It's one of the highest motorable passes in the world at 4,310m, and the India-China border is right there. Indian soldiers wave at Chinese soldiers. It's geopolitically surreal. But the altitude hits hard — headaches, nausea, shortness of breath are common. Don't go if you have heart or respiratory conditions.
Foreign nationals: Nathula is off-limits. No exceptions. Tsomgo Lake is accessible with the right permit."
Best time to visit?
"October to December for clear Kanchenjunga views and pleasant weather. March-May for rhododendron blooms — the hillsides turn red and pink. Avoid July-August monsoon unless you enjoy landslides and cancelled plans.
Winter (December-February) is cold but clear. That's when Tsomgo Lake freezes and Kanchenjunga has the most snow on its flanks. Just bring serious warm clothing."
Any final advice?
"Drink tongba. It's fermented millet beer served hot in a bamboo container with a metal straw. You add hot water and sip as it steeps. 100-200 INR. It's the Sikkimese equivalent of a fireside drink, and it tastes like warm, slightly sour grain with a gentle alcohol buzz.
For another mountain capital experience in the northeast, Shillong offers living root bridges and rock music. And please — put down your phone when Kanchenjunga is in front of you. I watch tourists photograph it for 30 seconds and move on. The mountain is 8,586 meters tall. It's been there for 50 million years. It deserves more than 30 seconds."
Tenzin's momo stall is near the south end of MG Marg, opposite the taxi stand. No sign — look for the steam. Open 10AM-8PM daily. Cash only.
