Your Luxor Questions Answered: 14 Things Every First-Timer Needs to Know
I've guided travelers through Luxor for over a decade. The questions are always the same — and the internet gives terrible answers to most of them. Here's what you actually need to know.
Q: When should I visit Luxor?
October through April. Period. Summer temperatures exceed 45°C and outdoor sightseeing becomes genuinely dangerous. Winter (November-February) averages 25-30°C — perfect for walking between temples and tombs all day. December-January is peak season with slightly higher prices and more tourists, but the weather is ideal.
Q: How do I get there?
Luxor International Airport (LXR) has direct flights from Cairo (1 hour, $40-80), Sharm el-Sheikh, and some European charter routes. Alternatively, take the overnight sleeper train from Cairo (10 hours, $90-120 for a private cabin) — it's an experience in itself. Nile cruises from Aswan to Luxor (3-4 days) are the classic option.
Q: E-visa or visa on arrival?
Both work. Visa on arrival costs $25 (single entry, pay in USD cash at the airport — have exact change). The e-visa at visa2egypt.gov.eg also costs $25 and processes in 5-7 days. The e-visa gets you through immigration faster. Either way: 30 days.
Q: Is the Luxor Pass worth it?
Yes, if you're visiting 5+ sites over multiple days. The Standard pass (EGP 4,000, roughly $80) gives unlimited access to ALL sites on both banks for 5 days. The Premium pass (EGP 6,000/$120) adds Tutankhamun's tomb and Nefertari's tomb in the Valley of the Queens.
Individual tickets for major sites: Valley of the Kings EGP 600, Karnak EGP 450, Hatshepsut EGP 360, Luxor Temple EGP 360, Tutankhamun EGP 400 extra. Five sites at individual prices = EGP 2,170. The pass is cheaper once you add a sixth site.
Buy at the Luxor Museum or Karnak ticket office. Bring passport and passport photo.
Q: How do I get around the West Bank?
All major tombs and temples are on the West Bank. Cross the Nile on the local ferry from the East Bank Corniche — EGP 5 ($0.10), 10 minutes. Then hire a taxi for the day: EGP 400-600 ($8-12) for 4-5 sites. The driver waits at each stop.
Alternatively, book a guided tour including transport for $30-50/person. Start early — sites close by mid-afternoon.
Q: Which 3 tombs should I see in the Valley of the Kings?
Your standard ticket covers 3 tombs from a rotating selection. My recommendations:
KV9 (Ramesses V/VI): The most spectacular ceiling — a double-height astronomical scene in brilliant blues and golds.
KV11 (Ramesses III): Colorful wall paintings including scenes of daily Egyptian life.
KV2 (Ramesses IV): Large, well-preserved, with the enormous sarcophagus still in place.
Tutankhamun's tomb (KV62) costs an extra EGP 400. It's small and the paintings are modest compared to others, but the historical significance makes it worth it for most visitors.
Q: Can I take photos inside the tombs?
Most tombs require a separate camera ticket (EGP 300) and prohibit flash photography (flash damages ancient paint). Phones are technically not allowed in some tombs, though enforcement varies. Tutankhamun's tomb strictly bans ALL photography.
My advice: skip the camera inside. The light is poor for photos, and the experience of simply looking — without a screen between you and 3,500-year-old art — is infinitely better.
Q: How do I deal with the touts?
Luxor has the most persistent touts in Egypt. Calèche (horse carriage) drivers, alabaster shop sellers, and self-appointed guides will approach you constantly. The protocol:
A firm "la shukran" (no thank you)
Don't make eye contact
Don't engage in conversation ("Where are you from?" is the opening move)
Never follow someone who says a site is "closed this way" — it's always a redirect to a shop
Keep walking
It's exhausting and it's the one major negative of visiting Luxor. But you'll develop the reflex within a day.
Q: Should I do the hot air balloon?
Absolutely. One of the world's best balloon experiences. You float over the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut's temple, the Colossi of Memnon, and the Nile at sunrise. Flights depart at 5-6AM and last about 45 minutes. Cost: $80-120/person.
Book through your hotel or directly with operators like Magic Horizon or Sindbad Balloons. The cheaper operators ($80) use larger baskets (20+ people). The premium ones ($120+) use smaller baskets and offer more personalized experiences.
Q: Where should I eat?
East Bank Corniche restaurants are the best option. Sofra and Al-Sahaby Lane serve excellent Egyptian food — ful (fava beans), koshari (rice and lentil street food), grilled meats, and fresh juice — for EGP 100-200/person.
Avoid restaurants directly facing Luxor Temple — prices are triple for the same food. One block back, the quality is identical and the price drops by 60%.
Q: Is the Sound and Light Show at Karnak worth it?
Yes, but manage expectations. It's a walk-through show (not seated) where dramatic lighting illuminates the temple sections while a recorded narration tells the history. EGP 400. The experience of being inside Karnak after dark — the columns lit from below, the stars overhead — is more memorable than the narration itself.
Q: How many days do I need?
Minimum 3 days. Ideal: 4-5 days. One day for East Bank (Karnak + Luxor Temple), one for West Bank tombs (Valley of Kings + Hatshepsut + Colossi), one for West Bank temples (Medinet Habu + Valley of Queens), plus a day for the balloon and a felucca sunset.
Q: Should I take a Nile cruise?
The 3-4 day cruise from Aswan to Luxor (or reverse) is excellent if you have the time. It includes Kom Ombo, Edfu, and Esna temples en route. Budget $300-600 for a standard cruise, $800+ for a premium dahabiya (traditional sailing boat). The dahabiyas are slower and infinitely more atmospheric.
Q: What about Dendera and Abydos?
Two of Egypt's best-preserved temples, both reachable as a day trip from Luxor (4 hours round trip). Dendera has the famous zodiac ceiling and vivid Hathor paintings. Abydos has the mysterious Abydos King List and some of the finest carved reliefs in Egypt. Tours cost $30-50/person. Highly recommended if you have the time. For more details, see our Luxor travel guide.
