What Living in Lhasa for 15 Years Taught Me About Tibet
Tenzin Dorje, 42, moved to Lhasa from eastern Tibet at age 27 to work in the tourism industry. He now runs a small guesthouse in the old town and guides visitors through the city and surrounding areas. We spoke over yak butter tea at his guesthouse, with the Potala Palace visible through the window.
What's the first thing tourists get wrong about Lhasa?
They rush. They fly in from , and the first day they want to see the Potala Palace, the Jokhang Temple, and the Barkhor. And by 2PM they have a splitting headache, they're nauseous, and they can't understand why.
Lhasa is at 3,650 meters. The oxygen level is about 60% of sea level. Your body needs 2-3 days to adjust. The first day, you should do nothing. Walk slowly. Drink water — 3-4 liters. Sit in a teahouse. Watch the pilgrims on the Barkhor. Do not climb anything. Do not exercise. Do not drink alcohol for the first 48 hours.
The tourists who acclimatize properly have amazing trips. The ones who don't end up in the hospital with altitude sickness.
What about the Potala Palace — is it worth the hype?
It's worth the hype, but not the way most tourists experience it. The guided tour rushes you through in 60-90 minutes. 200 CNY entry in peak season, daily limit of 5,000 visitors, and no photography inside the main halls.
The trick: come back at sunset. You can't go inside, but the Potala from below, with the evening light turning the white walls golden and the red palace on top glowing — that's when you understand why this building has been the symbol of Tibet for 400 years. The best viewpoint is from the square in front, or from the rooftop of the Jokhang Temple (included in the 85 CNY temple entry).
Where do you take friends who visit for the first time?
I always start at the Barkhor kora — the 1km clockwise circuit around the Jokhang Temple. Not because the market stalls are interesting (though they are — turquoise jewelry, prayer flags, yak butter), but because the kora IS Lhasa.
Every morning, thousands of Tibetans walk this circuit. Some are spinning prayer wheels. Some are prostrating — full body prostrations, forehead to ground, over and over, for the entire kilometer. Old women with prayer beads. Monks in maroon robes. Families with children. The devotion is real and it's overwhelming the first time you see it.
Always walk clockwise. This is non-negotiable.
What about the Sera Monastery debates?
This is my favorite thing to bring visitors to. Every afternoon from 3-5PM (except Sundays), monks at Sera Monastery (50 CNY, 5km north of center) hold debate sessions in the courtyard. They debate Buddhist philosophy, and the physical performance is extraordinary — monks clap their hands dramatically, stomp their feet, and gesture wildly while rapid-firing questions at seated opponents.
It looks like an argument. It's actually a teaching method that's been used for centuries. No flash photography during debates. You can sit on the ground and watch for as long as you want.
What's the most underrated experience in Lhasa?
The sweet tea houses in the old town. Not the tourist-oriented ones — the neighborhood tea houses where locals sit for hours. A glass of Tibetan sweet tea costs 2 CNY. You bring your own thermos or they give you a glass, and you sit. Monks sit next to construction workers next to grandmothers. Nobody is on their phone. The conversation is in Tibetan and you won't understand a word, but the atmosphere is the most honest version of Lhasa life.
There's one on a side street near the Jokhang — no name on the door, look for the steam coming from the window. That's been my regular spot for 12 years.
Should visitors try to reach Everest Base Camp?
If you have the time and the health, absolutely. The north side of Everest Base Camp (5,200m) is reachable by road from Lhasa — a 2-3 day overland journey through stunning high-plateau landscapes. You need an Alien Travel Permit and Military Permit (your tour agency arranges these).
But the journey there is as good as the destination. Gyantse's Kumbum stupa, Shigatse's Tashilhunpo Monastery, and the raw high-altitude desert between them — it's spectacular. Stay overnight at Rongbuk (5,000m) for sunrise on Everest's north face.
Fair warning: above 4,500m, many people feel genuinely terrible. Diamox helps. Descend immediately if symptoms worsen — confusion, persistent vomiting, or chest tightness are emergency signs.
What do tourists get wrong about Tibetan culture?
Three things.
First, they photograph without asking. Pilgrims prostrating outside the Jokhang are in a state of deep devotion. Shoving a camera in their face is disrespectful. Most will agree if you ask — gesture with your camera, make eye contact, wait for a nod.
Second, they walk counterclockwise around religious sites. Always clockwise in Tibetan Buddhism. Around temples, stupas, prayer wheels — always clockwise.
Third, they ask about politics in public. Please don't. Whatever your views, discussing sensitive topics openly puts Tibetans in an uncomfortable and potentially risky position. If you want to understand the situation, read before you come. Don't make locals your interview subjects.
What should visitors bring that they always forget?
SPF 50+ sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat. At 3,650m, the UV radiation is savage. I've seen tourists with severe sunburns after a single afternoon. Lip balm with SPF — everyone's lips crack. A refillable water bottle — the air is extremely dry. And a warm layer for evenings — even in July, it drops to 8-10°C after dark.
If someone has only 3 days in Lhasa, how should they spend them?
Day 1: Rest. Acclimatize. Walk slowly. Barkhor kora in the late afternoon. Sweet tea. Early bed.
Day 2: Jokhang Temple in the morning (85 CNY, the devotional atmosphere peaks from 9-11AM). Potala Palace in the afternoon (200 CNY, book 1-3 days ahead through your agency). Sunset from the square below the Potala.
Day 3: Sera Monastery debates (3-5PM, 50 CNY). In the morning, Drepung Monastery (60 CNY, the largest monastery in Tibet, 8km west) or Norbulingka summer palace (60 CNY, beautiful gardens).
If you have a 4th day: Namtso Lake. But only if you've felt good for three days — it's at 4,718m and the altitude jump is significant.
After 15 years, what keeps you in Lhasa?
The light. There's a clarity to the light at altitude — the sky is deeper blue, the shadows are sharper, the sunrise hits the Potala Palace like nothing else I've seen. Every morning I wake up and look at this building and it still stops me. That hasn't changed in 15 years.
And the people. Tibetans are profoundly kind. The hospitality is genuine and deep. When I first arrived, a family I didn't know fed me for a week until I found work. That generosity is everywhere, and it's the thing tourists remember most — not the monuments, not the mountains. The people.
Tenzin's guesthouse is in the old town near the Barkhor circuit. He can be reached through the Lhasa Tourism Association for guided tours. Tibet Travel Permits must be arranged through a licensed tour agency at least 15-20 business days before arrival.
