I made a mistake my first year on Lefkada. I went in August because that's what everyone does, right? Peak summer, peak Greek islands. What I got was a €3 parking lot at Porto Katsiki that was full by 9:45 AM, 80 steps down to a beach with roughly one square meter of personal space per person, and taverna waits that made me question my life choices.
Then a local at a cafe in Nidri said something I'll never forget: "Come back in September. Same water, half the people."
So I did. And he was completely right.
The Water Is Actually Warmer
This sounds counterintuitive, but the Ionian Sea reaches its peak temperature in September — around 25-26°C — because it takes weeks for the summer sun to fully heat the water. In June, that same turquoise water at Egremni is a bracing 20°C. By September, it's like a bath.
And the turquoise. I need to talk about the turquoise. Lefkada's west coast beaches — Porto Katsiki, Egremni, Kathisma — have water that looks photoshopped. It's not. The white limestone cliffs reflect light upward through the water, creating shades of blue that I genuinely didn't think existed outside of Caribbean tourism brochures. In September, with lower sun angles and calmer seas, the colors are even more intense.
Porto Katsiki Without the Madness
In August, the 80-step descent to Porto Katsiki feels like a queue for a theme park ride. In September, I walked down at 10:30 AM — practically a sin in peak season — and found maybe 40 people on the beach. I could hear the waves. I could actually lie down without negotiating territory with someone's beach umbrella.
The parking lot (€3, cash only) had space. The cliffs still rose white and massive on both sides. The water still looked like someone had melted a glacier over liquid sapphire. But I could breathe.
Here's my Porto Katsiki September routine: arrive around 10 AM, bring a shade umbrella (there are zero trees), pack lunch and water (no facilities beyond a tiny seasonal canteen), and leave around 3 PM when the sun drops behind the cliffs. Perfection.
Egremni Is Even Better Off-Peak
Egremni Beach reopened with road access after the 2015 earthquake — previously it was 347 steps down, which kept out everyone except the seriously determined. The road is steep and narrow, but any rental car handles it.
In September, this 2 km stretch of white pebble beach is practically empty. I'm talking 15 people on a Wednesday. The water shifts from emerald to cobalt depending on the sun angle, and there's a silence here that's impossible in July. No facilities whatsoever — bring everything.
The downside? September weather occasionally brings a stormier day. But even then, watching waves crash against the cliffs from the road viewpoint is spectacular. Pack a raincoat alongside the sunscreen.
The Eric Wind Still Blows (But Gentler)
Vassiliki Bay, at the island's southern end, is one of Europe's premier windsurfing destinations. The "Eric" wind — a reliable afternoon thermal — kicks up from about noon, creating flat morning water for beginners and choppy afternoon conditions for experienced riders.
In September, the Eric is slightly gentler than August's peak, which is actually better for intermediate windsurfers. Club Vass and other rental shops on the bay offer gear from €35/hour. The bay itself is sheltered, so even when the west coast has whitecaps, Vassiliki stays manageable.
I took a 2-hour lesson on a September afternoon. The instructor said September is his favorite month because "the students aren't fighting the wind, they're working with it." I only fell in four times, which he claimed was above average. I choose to believe him.
Taverna Season Gets Better
In August, every taverna in Lefkada Town is packed. In September, the same restaurants have tables available at 8 PM on a Saturday. And the food — Greek island taverna food at its best — is still peak season quality because the ingredients are at their ripest.
My favorites in Lefkada Town: Sto Molo on the waterfront for grilled octopus (€12) and a half-liter of house white (€4). The local wine is surprisingly good — Lefkada has its own Vertzami grape that produces a deep red unique to the island.
In Nidri, eat at Barrel on the harbor. The moussaka is €9 and genuinely excellent. In Vassiliki, Sapfo has the best fresh fish priced by the kilo — expect €35-50 for two with wine.
The evening volta (stroll) along the Lefkada Town marina is a local tradition. September evenings are warm enough for a t-shirt but cool enough that the walk is pleasant, not sweaty. Grab a gelato from one of the shops on Mela Street (the pedestrian shopping street) and join the flow.
The Waterfalls Actually Have Water
The Nidri Waterfalls, a 20-minute walk through olive groves from Nidri village, tend to dry up by late August. But September — especially if there's been any late-summer rain — keeps them flowing. The pool at the base is swimmable (cold, about 18°C) and refreshing after the walk.
Free entry. Pack water shoes for the rocky pool bottom. Allow 1.5 hours for the round trip including swimming time. It's not Niagara, but standing in a cool waterfall pool after a morning on a hot beach is a particular kind of joy.
Cape Lefkatas at Sunset
The southern tip of the island — Cape Lefkatas, also called Lover's Leap — has white cliffs rising 72 meters above the sea. According to legend, the poet Sappho leapt from here. In reality, it's one of the best sunset viewpoints in all of Greece, and in September, sunset is around 7:30 PM, which means you can have a leisurely dinner in Vassiliki beforehand and still make it.
The road is narrow and winding. Don't attempt it in the dark. And if you have any issue with heights, the viewpoint is not for you — there are no barriers and it's a sheer drop.
But the view. The Ionian Sea stretching to the horizon, the sky turning from gold to pink to deep purple, the lighthouse behind you. September light has a warmth to it that August's harsher midday sun doesn't match.
Practical September Tips
Flights: Aktion Airport (PVK) is on the mainland, 20 km from Lefkada town. September flights are significantly cheaper than July-August — I've seen Ryanair fares from Athens for under €30
Car rental: Essential. The best beaches are 30-45 minutes from town on mountain roads. September rates drop to about €25/day vs €40+ in August
Accommodation: Simple studios from €35/night in September vs €55+ in peak. Try staying in Agios Nikitas village for a quieter base with beach access
Weather: Expect 25-30°C most days, occasional rain (maybe 2-3 days in the month), water 25-26°C
Crowds: Maybe 40-50% of August levels. Beaches feel spacious, restaurants have tables, roads have fewer convoys of rental cars
The only catch? Some beach bars and water sports operators shut down mid-to-late September. If nightlife or organized beach clubs are your priority, stick to the first two weeks. But if you're here for the water, the light, and the food — and honestly, that's what Lefkada does best — September is the move.
If you're exploring Greek islands more broadly, Santorini and Crete are also excellent in September, but Lefkada has something neither of them can match: beaches this good at a fraction of the price, and you don't even need a ferry to get there.
