Beirut

Airport transfer to Hamra/Achrafieh(30 minutes)

Use Bolt or Otofare app for transparent pricing. Avoid unmarked taxis. Cost ~$10-15. Pay in USD for the best rate

Walk along Hamra Street(1.5 hours)

Beirut's intellectual spine — bookshops, cafes, and the iconic Cafe Younes (est. 1935) where Turkish coffee is roasted on-site. Pick up a bag of their medium roast ($5)

Dinner at Em Sherif(2 hours)

Upscale Lebanese cuisine in a beautifully restored Ottoman-era townhouse. The mezze spread arrives automatically — 15+ dishes including their legendary kibbeh nayyeh and lamb in cherry sauce. $40-60 per person. Reservations essential

Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque and St. George Cathedral(1 hour)

The iconic blue-domed mosque and adjacent Maronite cathedral stand side by side in Martyrs' Square — a visual summary of Lebanon's religious mosaic. Mosque is free to enter (remove shoes, modest dress)

Beirut Souks(1 hour)

The reconstructed downtown market area. Window-shop or grab coffee at Café Blanc. The area is modern but built atop layers of Phoenician, Roman, and Ottoman ruins visible through glass panels in the floor

Lunch at Enab(1.5 hours)

Located on Gemmayze's main street in a 200-year-old Lebanese house. Their fattoush with sumac and pomegranate molasses is exceptional. Mezze spread for two: $15-20

Walk the Corniche to Raouche Rocks(2 hours)

The 4.8 km seaside promenade from Ain el-Mreisseh to Raouche. Stop for ka'ak bread from a cart ($0.50). Arrive at Pigeon Rocks for sunset — the 60-meter natural sea arches are stunning in golden light

Dinner at Tawlet(1.5 hours)

Farm-to-table in Mar Mikhael where a different regional Lebanese cook prepares the daily buffet. $20-25 for lunch buffet. A deep dive into authentic Lebanese cuisine from different villages

Beirut National Museum(2 hours)

Over 100,000 artifacts spanning 5,000 years. The Phoenician sarcophagi and Byzantine mosaics are highlights. Entry: 5,000 LBP (~$0.50). Open Tue-Sun 9 AM-5 PM. Located on Museum Street near the former Green Line

Sursock Museum(1.5 hours)

A stunning 19th-century mansion converted to a modern art museum. Free entry. The building itself — with its Ottoman-Venetian architecture — is as impressive as the contemporary Lebanese art inside. Open Thu-Tue 10 AM-6 PM

Lunch at Abou Tarek (Bourj Hammoud)(1 hour)

Head to the Armenian quarter for lahmajun (Armenian flatbread pizza) and soujouk. A full meal under $5. The neighborhood buzzes with gold shops and spice markets

Free afternoon — rest or explore(2 hours)

Relax at your hotel or walk through the American University of Beirut's leafy campus overlooking the sea — the campus gate is open to visitors

Bar-hopping in Gemmayzeh & Mar Mikhael(3 hours)

Beirut's nightlife starts at 10 PM. Start at Internazionale on Armenia Street (craft cocktails, $5-8), move to Torino Express (standing-room-only wine bar), and finish at B018 (legendary underground club that opens its roof at dawn). Thursday-Saturday are the big nights

Drive to Byblos(45 minutes)

Hire a driver for the day ($60-80) or take a shared service taxi from Cola intersection (~$3). The coastal highway north has sea views the entire way

Byblos Crusader Castle and archaeological site(2 hours)

Walk through 7,000 years of history — Phoenician temples, Roman columns, and a 12th-century Crusader castle. Entry ~$5. The view of the ancient harbor from the castle walls is spectacular

Lunch at Bab el Mina(1.5 hours)

Seafood restaurant on the old harbor. Order the grilled sea bass with tahini ($15) and watch fishing boats bob in the Phoenician port. Fresh fish is caught that morning

Wander the medieval souks(1 hour)

Narrow stone alleyways with artisan shops selling handmade soap, olive oil, and traditional crafts. Less touristy than Beirut's souks. The Church of St. John the Baptist (12th century) is tucked inside the market

Return to Beirut and sunset drinks(1.5 hours)

Stop at Byblos Sur Mer terrace for a drink overlooking the sea, or head back to Beirut and catch sunset from the Sporting Club beach (entry $10-15 includes pool access)

Drive to Jeita Grotto(30 minutes)

18 km north of Beirut. Hire a driver or take a tour ($40-60 for both sites). No photography allowed inside the caves

Jeita Grotto(2.5 hours)

Two interconnected limestone caves — walk through the upper gallery past massive stalactites, then take a boat ride on an underground river through the lower grotto. Entry ~$18. Open Tue-Sun 9 AM-5 PM. The scale is genuinely awe-inspiring

Lunch at a Jounieh waterfront restaurant(1 hour)

Stop in the coastal town of Jounieh between the two sites. Try Al Sultan Brahim for fresh seafood ($15-20) or grab a falafel wrap from a street cart ($1-2)

Harissa — Our Lady of Lebanon(1.5 hours)

Take the Teleferique (cable car, ~$8 return) from Jounieh Bay up to the 15-ton white statue of the Virgin Mary. Panoramic views of the bay and mountains. Free to visit the shrine. The cable car ride itself is worth the trip

Evening at a Jounieh rooftop(1.5 hours)

Jounieh has lively nightlife rivaling Beirut's. The Casino du Liban is nearby if you want a flutter. Otherwise, drinks at any of the bay-view rooftop bars

Drive to Baalbek(1.5 hours)

Leave by 8 AM. Hire a driver ($80-100 for the day) or join an organized tour. The route crosses the Mount Lebanon range — stunning scenery through cedar forests and the Bekaa Valley

Baalbek archaeological site(3 hours)

The Temple of Jupiter's six remaining columns stand 22 meters tall. The Temple of Bacchus is the best-preserved Roman temple anywhere — more complete than anything in Rome. Entry ~$7. Allow time to absorb the scale. An audio guide is worth renting

Lunch at a Bekaa Valley restaurant(1 hour)

Stop at a roadside restaurant for a Bekaa speciality — kibbeh bil sanieh (baked kibbeh with pine nuts), fattoush, and a bottle of Ksara wine from the nearby winery ($8). The Bekaa produces Lebanon's best wines

Optional: Ksara or Chateau Kefraya winery visit(1.5 hours)

Lebanon's oldest winery (est. 1857) offers free tours and tastings of their Cabernet-Syrah blends. 10 minutes from Baalbek road. Book ahead or try walk-in

Return to Beirut(1.5 hours)

Arrive back in Beirut by early evening. Light dinner at a Mar Mikhael café — Baron for wine and charcuterie ($15-20)

Lebanese breakfast at Al Soussi(1 hour)

Iconic hole-in-the-wall in Hamra since 1950s. Foul mudammas (fava beans), hummus with meat, and fresh manoushe (flatbread with za'atar and cheese). Under $5 for a feast. Arrive before 9 AM

Last-minute shopping in Achrafieh(1.5 hours)

Browse ABC Mall Achrafieh for Lebanese designers, or head to Artisan du Liban for quality olive oil soap, za'atar blends, and arak bottles to take home. Spice mixes from $3, olive oil soap bars from $2

Airport transfer and departure(45 minutes)

BEY airport is 9 km south of the center. Allow 2.5 hours before international flights. Use Bolt ($10-15). The duty-free has excellent Lebanese wine and sweets

Airport transfer to Hamra/Achrafieh(30 minutes)

Use Bolt or Otofare app for transparent pricing. Avoid unmarked taxis. Cost ~$10-15. Pay in USD for the best rate

Walk along Hamra Street(1.5 hours)

Beirut's intellectual spine — bookshops, cafes, and the iconic Cafe Younes (est. 1935) where Turkish coffee is roasted on-site. Pick up a bag of their medium roast ($5)

Dinner at Em Sherif(2 hours)

Upscale Lebanese cuisine in a beautifully restored Ottoman-era townhouse. The mezze spread arrives automatically — 15+ dishes including kibbeh nayyeh and lamb in cherry sauce. $40-60 per person. Reservations essential

Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque and St. George Cathedral(1 hour)

The blue-domed mosque and adjacent Maronite cathedral stand side by side in Martyrs' Square. Mosque is free (remove shoes, modest dress)

Beirut Souks and Roman Baths(1.5 hours)

The reconstructed downtown market area with Phoenician, Roman, and Ottoman ruins visible through glass floor panels. Grab coffee at Café Blanc

Lunch at Enab(1.5 hours)

In a 200-year-old Gemmayzeh house. Their fattoush with sumac and pomegranate molasses is exceptional. Mezze for two: $15-20

Walk the Corniche to Raouche Rocks(2 hours)

4.8 km seaside promenade. Stop for ka'ak bread ($0.50). Arrive at Pigeon Rocks for sunset — the 60-meter sea arches glow in golden light

Beirut National Museum(2.5 hours)

Over 100,000 artifacts from Phoenician sarcophagi to Byzantine mosaics. Entry: 5,000 LBP (~$0.50). Open Tue-Sun 9 AM-5 PM. The museum's own survival story through the civil war is remarkable

Sursock Museum(1.5 hours)

19th-century Ottoman-Venetian mansion housing contemporary Lebanese art. Free entry. The rooftop terrace has city views. Open Thu-Tue 10 AM-6 PM

Lunch at Abdel Wahab(1.5 hours)

Classic Lebanese restaurant in Achrafieh. Their kebbeh varieties (nayyeh, bil laban, meshwi) are the best in Beirut. $20-30 per person with arak

Explore Achrafieh galleries and boutiques(2 hours)

Walk along Rue Gouraud in Gemmayzeh. Stop at Plan BEY for independent Lebanese design, Librairie Antoine for Arabic and French books, and street art on side alleys

Drive to Byblos(45 minutes)

Hire a driver ($60-80 for the day) or shared service taxi from Cola intersection (~$3)

Byblos Crusader Castle and archaeological site(2 hours)

7,000 years of history — Phoenician temples, Roman columns, and a 12th-century castle. Entry ~$5. The harbor view from the castle walls is spectacular

Lunch at Bab el Mina(1.5 hours)

Seafood on the old harbor. Grilled sea bass with tahini ($15) while watching fishing boats in the Phoenician port

Medieval souks and Church of St. John(1 hour)

Narrow stone alleyways with artisan shops. The 12th-century church is tucked inside the market. Less touristy than Beirut

Swim at Byblos Beach or White Beach(1.5 hours)

Beach clubs along the Byblos coast charge $15-20 entry including pool and sea access. Good cocktails and Mediterranean swimming

Drive to Jeita Grotto(30 minutes)

18 km north of Beirut. No photography inside the caves — just experience it with your eyes

Jeita Grotto(2.5 hours)

Walk the upper gallery past massive stalactites, then boat through the lower grotto on an underground river. Entry ~$18. Open Tue-Sun 9 AM-5 PM

Lunch in Jounieh(1 hour)

Al Sultan Brahim for fresh seafood ($15-20) or a quick falafel wrap from a street cart ($1-2)

Harissa via Teleferique(1.5 hours)

Cable car (~$8 return) from Jounieh Bay to the 15-ton white statue of the Virgin Mary. Panoramic bay and mountain views. Free shrine visit

Evening in Jounieh(1.5 hours)

Rooftop drinks overlooking the bay. The Casino du Liban is nearby for gambling or its dinner shows

Drive to Baalbek(1.5 hours)

Leave by 8 AM. Driver $80-100 for the day. The route crosses Mount Lebanon — stunning cedar forest and valley scenery

Baalbek archaeological site(3 hours)

Temple of Jupiter's six columns stand 22 meters tall. Temple of Bacchus is more complete than anything in Rome. Entry ~$7. Rent the audio guide

Lunch in the Bekaa(1 hour)

Kibbeh bil sanieh, fattoush, and a bottle of Ksara wine ($8) at a roadside restaurant

Ksara Winery visit(1.5 hours)

Lebanon's oldest winery (est. 1857). Free tours and tastings of their Cabernet-Syrah blends. The 2,000-year-old Roman caves used for aging are a bonus

Return to Beirut(1.5 hours)

Light dinner at Baron in Mar Mikhael — wine and charcuterie ($15-20)

Morning at Lazy B beach club(3 hours)

One of Beirut's popular beach clubs south of the city. Entry $15-20 includes pool and sea access. Loungers, cocktails, and Mediterranean swimming. The scene is very social

Lunch at the beach club(1 hour)

Fresh grilled fish, fattoush, and cold beer without leaving the lounger. $15-20 for a full meal

Traditional hammam experience(2 hours)

Al Omara Hammam in Downtown Beirut offers a traditional scrub, steam, and massage experience. $40-50 for the full treatment. Book in advance

Evening stroll and dinner in Monot(2 hours)

Monot district has a mix of restaurants and bars. Try Liza for elegant Lebanese cuisine in an art-filled mansion ($30-40 per person)

Drive to Chouf(1.5 hours)

Hire a driver ($70-90 for the day). The road climbs through terraced hillsides dotted with red-roofed villages

Beiteddine Palace(2 hours)

A magnificent 19th-century Ottoman palace built by Emir Bashir II. Byzantine mosaics, marble courtyards, and mountain views. Entry ~$5. The annual Beiteddine Art Festival (summer) is held in the palace courtyard

Lunch in Deir el-Qamar(1 hour)

A beautifully preserved Druze village 5 minutes from Beiteddine. Eat at one of the stone-terrace restaurants overlooking the valley. Manoushe and grilled meats for $8-12

Chouf Cedar Reserve(2 hours)

Hike through one of the last remaining cedar of Lebanon forests — the tree on the national flag. Short trails (1-2 hours) through ancient trees, some over 2,000 years old. Entry ~$5

Return to Beirut via Damour(1.5 hours)

Coastal route back with views of banana plantations and the Mediterranean

Drive to Tripoli(1.5 hours)

Hire a driver ($80-100) or take a Connexion bus from Charles Helou station (~$4, 1.5 hours)

Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles(1 hour)

Massive Crusader fortress overlooking the city. Entry ~$3. The views from the ramparts span the old city, port, and mountains. A 900-year-old structure still commanding attention

Khan el-Saboun (Soap Khan) and old souks(2 hours)

Tripoli's souks are less restored and more authentic than Beirut's. The soap khan still produces olive oil soap by hand. Gold souq, spice market, and tailors in medieval stone passages. Haggling expected

Lunch at Al Halabi(1 hour)

Famous for Tripoli specialties — fatayer (pastry triangles), sfeeha (open meat pies), and the city's legendary sweets. A full meal for $5-8

Abdul Rahman Hallab — world's best sweets(30 minutes)

Tripoli is Lebanon's sweet capital. Abdul Rahman Hallab (est. 1881) makes the finest knafeh (hot cheese pastry with syrup) you'll ever eat. A plate costs $3. Buy a box to take back to Beirut ($10-15)

Lebanese cooking class(4 hours)

Book through Souk el Tayeb or Tawlet — learn to make hummus from scratch, tabbouleh, kibbeh, and fattoush with a local home cook. $40-60 per person including the meal you prepare. Market visit often included

Walk through Bourj Hammoud(2 hours)

Beirut's Armenian quarter — crowded, colorful, and totally different from Hamra or Gemmayzeh. Gold shops, spice sellers, lahmajun bakeries, and the sound of Armenian spoken in the streets. The best soujouk sausage in Lebanon comes from here

Afternoon at a café in Mar Mikhael(1.5 hours)

Kalei Coffee Co. for specialty pour-over ($3-4) or Aaliya's Books for reading and people-watching with wine ($5-8 a glass)

Dinner at Mayrig(1.5 hours)

Armenian-Lebanese restaurant in Gemmayzeh. Manti (Armenian dumplings in yogurt sauce), imam bayildi, and their legendary su borek. $20-25 per person

Drive to Bcharre(2 hours)

Hire a driver ($100-120 for the day). The mountain road climbs from the coast through Batroun to Bcharre at 1,500 meters elevation. Spectacular scenery

Cedars of God (Arz el-Rab)(1.5 hours)

The most famous cedar grove in the world — some trees are 1,000+ years old. A UNESCO-listed grove with marked walking paths. Entry ~$5. These are the actual cedars on Lebanon's flag and coat of arms

Gibran Museum in Bcharre(1 hour)

The hillside cave-monastery where poet-painter Kahlil Gibran is buried. His paintings, manuscripts, and personal effects are on display. Entry ~$5. 'The Prophet' fans — this is pilgrimage territory

Lunch in Bcharre(1 hour)

Try a local restaurant for mountain specialties — grilled trout from the Qadisha River, kibbeh, and fresh bread baked in a wood oven. $10-15 per person

Qadisha Valley viewpoint(1 hour)

Stop at the valley's edge for views of the gorge — 300 meters deep, carved by the Qadisha River, dotted with ancient monasteries clinging to cliff faces. One of the most dramatic landscapes in the Mediterranean

Drive to Sidon(45 minutes)

40 km south of Beirut. Driver or shared service taxi ($3-5)

Sidon Sea Castle and old souks(1.5 hours)

A 13th-century Crusader castle built on a small island connected by a causeway. Entry ~$3. Then wander the old souks — the Khan al-Franj (French Khan) is a beautifully restored caravanserai

Soap Museum(45 minutes)

In a 17th-century soap factory. Learn about traditional olive oil soap production that's been Sidon's specialty for centuries. Entry ~$3

Drive to Tyre(45 minutes)

Continue 40 km south to Tyre (Sour)

Tyre archaeological sites(2 hours)

Two UNESCO sites — the Al-Bass archaeological area has the largest Roman hippodrome ever found, and the Roman road with mosaic floors. Entry ~$5 for both sites

Lunch at Le Petit Phénicien in Tyre(1 hour)

Fresh fish by the old harbor. The catch of the day grilled simply with lemon and olive oil — $12-15. Tyre's harbor is one of the prettiest in Lebanon

Morning at Souk el Tayeb farmers' market(1.5 hours)

Saturday only (9 AM-2 PM) in Beirut Souks. Local farmers selling za'atar, olive oil, cheese, honey, and seasonal produce. Taste everything — samples are generous

Revisit a favorite neighborhood(2 hours)

Return to Gemmayzeh for more street art, Hamra for bookshops, or the Corniche for a final sea walk

Souvenir shopping(1.5 hours)

Artisan du Liban for packaged za'atar, sumac, and olive oil soap. L'Artisan du Liban in Downtown. Orient 499 for high-end Lebanese crafts. Arak bottles from any supermarket ($8-12)

Farewell dinner at Abdel Wahab(2 hours)

A final legendary Lebanese feast — order the full mezze spread with kebbeh nayyeh, loubieh bil zeit, and grilled halloumi. Finish with Arabic coffee and a plate of baklawa. $25-35 per person

Lebanese breakfast at Al Soussi(1 hour)

Iconic Hamra hole-in-the-wall since the 1950s. Foul mudammas, hummus with meat, and fresh manoushe. Under $5 for a feast. Arrive before 9 AM

Last walk along the Corniche(45 minutes)

One final Mediterranean morning — fishermen, joggers, and the scent of sea salt. Pick up a fresh ka'ak from a cart

Airport transfer and departure(45 minutes)

BEY is 9 km south of center. Bolt ($10-15). Allow 2.5 hours before international flights. Duty-free has excellent Lebanese wine and sweets

Airport transfer to Hamra(30 minutes)

Use Bolt or Otofare app. Pay in USD for the best rate. ~$10-15

Walk along Hamra Street(1.5 hours)

Cafe Younes (est. 1935) for freshly roasted Turkish coffee ($2). Browse bookshops and people-watch at the sidewalk cafes

Dinner at Em Sherif(2 hours)

The mezze spread arrives automatically — 15+ dishes including kibbeh nayyeh and lamb in cherry sauce. $40-60 per person. Reservations essential

Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque and St. George Cathedral(1 hour)

Blue-domed mosque and Maronite cathedral side by side in Martyrs' Square. Free entry to mosque (modest dress)

Beirut Souks and Roman ruins(1.5 hours)

Roman, Ottoman, and Phoenician ruins visible through glass floor panels. Coffee at Café Blanc

Lunch at Enab(1.5 hours)

In a 200-year-old Gemmayzeh house. Fattoush with sumac and pomegranate molasses. Mezze for two: $15-20

Walk the Corniche to Raouche(2 hours)

4.8 km promenade. Ka'ak bread cart ($0.50). Pigeon Rocks glow golden at sunset

Beirut National Museum(2.5 hours)

5,000 years of artifacts. Phoenician sarcophagi and Byzantine mosaics. Entry: ~$0.50. Open Tue-Sun 9 AM-5 PM

Sursock Museum(1.5 hours)

19th-century Ottoman-Venetian mansion with contemporary Lebanese art. Free entry. Rooftop terrace views

Lunch at Abou Tarek in Bourj Hammoud(1 hour)

Armenian quarter. Lahmajun and soujouk. Full meal under $5

Evening in Gemmayzeh & Mar Mikhael(3 hours)

Start at Internazionale for craft cocktails ($5-8), Torino Express for wine, end at B018 underground club. Nightlife starts 10 PM

Drive to Byblos(45 minutes)

Driver $60-80 for the day. Coastal highway with sea views

Archaeological site and Crusader Castle(2 hours)

7,000 years of history. Entry ~$5. Harbor views from castle walls

Lunch at Bab el Mina(1.5 hours)

Grilled sea bass with tahini ($15) by the Phoenician harbor

Medieval souks and Church of St. John(1 hour)

12th-century church tucked in stone alleyways with artisan shops

Byblos Beach swim(1.5 hours)

Beach clubs with pool and sea access ($15-20 entry)

Jeita Grotto(2.5 hours)

Upper gallery on foot, lower grotto by boat on an underground river. Entry ~$18. No photography — just experience it

Lunch in Jounieh(1 hour)

Al Sultan Brahim for seafood ($15-20)

Harissa via Teleferique(1.5 hours)

Cable car (~$8 return) to the 15-ton Virgin Mary statue. Panoramic bay views

Morning at Lazy B beach club(3 hours)

Pool and sea access ($15-20 entry). Loungers, cocktails, and Mediterranean swimming

Beach club lunch(1 hour)

Grilled fish, fattoush, and cold beer. $15-20

Traditional hammam(2 hours)

Al Omara Hammam in Downtown. Full scrub, steam, and massage. $40-50

Dinner at Liza(1.5 hours)

Elegant Lebanese cuisine in an art-filled Monot mansion. $30-40 per person

Drive to Baalbek(1.5 hours)

Leave by 8 AM. Driver $80-100. Route crosses Mount Lebanon

Baalbek archaeological site(3 hours)

Temple of Jupiter and Temple of Bacchus — more complete than anything in Rome. Entry ~$7

Lunch in the Bekaa(1 hour)

Kibbeh bil sanieh with Ksara wine ($8)

Ksara Winery(1.5 hours)

Free tours and tastings. 2,000-year-old Roman aging caves. Est. 1857

Drive to Chouf(1.5 hours)

Driver $70-90. Terraced hillsides with red-roofed villages

Beiteddine Palace(2 hours)

19th-century Ottoman palace with Byzantine mosaics and marble courtyards. Entry ~$5

Lunch in Deir el-Qamar(1 hour)

Preserved Druze village. Manoushe and grilled meats on a stone terrace ($8-12)

Chouf Cedar Reserve(2 hours)

Hike among cedars over 2,000 years old — the tree on Lebanon's flag. Entry ~$5

Drive to Tripoli(1.5 hours)

Driver $80-100 or Connexion bus (~$4)

Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles(1 hour)

Massive Crusader fortress. Entry ~$3. Views across old city and mountains

Old souks and Khan el-Saboun(2 hours)

Soap khan with handmade olive oil soap. Gold souq, spice market. More authentic than Beirut

Lunch at Al Halabi(1 hour)

Fatayer, sfeeha, and city specialties. $5-8

Abdul Rahman Hallab sweets(30 minutes)

Est. 1881. The finest knafeh you'll ever eat ($3 a plate). Buy a box ($10-15)

Drive to Bcharre(2 hours)

Driver $100-120. Mountain road through Batroun to 1,500 meters elevation

Cedars of God(1.5 hours)

The most famous cedar grove. Trees 1,000+ years old. UNESCO-listed. Entry ~$5

Gibran Museum(1 hour)

Hillside cave-monastery where Kahlil Gibran is buried. His paintings and manuscripts. Entry ~$5

Lunch in Bcharre(1 hour)

Mountain trout from the Qadisha River, fresh bread from a wood oven. $10-15

Qadisha Valley viewpoint(1 hour)

300-meter-deep gorge with monasteries clinging to cliff faces

Lebanese cooking class(4 hours)

Through Souk el Tayeb or Tawlet. Make hummus, tabbouleh, kibbeh, and fattoush. $40-60 including the meal. Often includes market visit

Walk through Bourj Hammoud(2 hours)

Armenian quarter — gold shops, spice sellers, lahmajun bakeries. Best soujouk in Lebanon

Afternoon at Kalei Coffee Co.(1.5 hours)

Specialty pour-over ($3-4) in Mar Mikhael. Or Aaliya's Books for reading with wine ($5-8)

Dinner at Mayrig(1.5 hours)

Armenian-Lebanese in Gemmayzeh. Manti dumplings in yogurt sauce, su borek. $20-25 per person

Drive to Sidon(45 minutes)

40 km south. Driver or shared taxi ($3-5)

Sidon Sea Castle and old souks(1.5 hours)

13th-century castle on a causeway. Entry ~$3. Khan al-Franj caravanserai

Soap Museum(45 minutes)

17th-century factory showing olive oil soap production. Entry ~$3

Tyre Roman ruins(2 hours)

Largest Roman hippodrome ever found plus Roman road with mosaics. UNESCO site. Entry ~$5

Lunch at Le Petit Phénicien(1 hour)

Fresh fish by the harbor. Catch of the day grilled with lemon. $12-15

Morning walk through AUB campus(1.5 hours)

The American University of Beirut's leafy campus overlooks the Mediterranean. Beautiful 19th-century buildings, botanical gardens, and the AUB Archaeological Museum (free). Open to visitors

Brunch at Urbanista(1.5 hours)

Popular Hamra café with excellent avocado toast, eggs Benedict, and specialty coffee. $10-15 for brunch

Free afternoon at leisure(3 hours)

Read at Aaliya's Books, shop on Hamra Street, or nap at your hotel. Beirut rewards slow days

Sunset from the Corniche(1 hour)

One more sunset walk — grab fresh corn from a cart and sit on the rocks watching the fishermen

Dinner at Tawlet(1.5 hours)

Return for a different day's menu — each visit features a cook from a different Lebanese village. $20-25 buffet

Drive to Batroun(1 hour)

50 km north of Beirut. Driver or shared taxi

Phoenician sea wall and old town(1.5 hours)

Walk the ancient Phoenician breakwater, the oldest continuously used man-made harbor wall in the world. The old town has narrow lanes, Ottoman houses, and a medieval church

Lunch at Chez Maguy(1.5 hours)

Legendary fish restaurant right on the harbor. Whole grilled fish with tahini, homemade kebbeh, and cold mezze. $15-20 per person

Colonel Beer microbrewery(1.5 hours)

Lebanon's first craft brewery, founded in the old town. Tasting paddle of 4 beers for $8. The IPA and blonde ale are excellent. Buy bottles to take home

Swim at White Beach or natural rock pools(1.5 hours)

Natural tidal rock pools along the coast or beach clubs. Free natural pools or $10-15 for beach club entry

Drive to Ehden(2 hours)

120 km north of Beirut. Through the mountains above Tripoli. Driver $100-120

Horsh Ehden Nature Reserve(3 hours)

One of Lebanon's most biodiverse forests — ancient cedars, junipers, wild orchids, and 160 bird species. Marked hiking trails from 1-4 hours. Entry ~$5. Bring layers — it's cooler at altitude

Lunch in Ehden village(1.5 hours)

Mountain cuisine at its best — raw kibbeh, grilled lamb, fresh salads, and arak under the trees. $12-18 per person at any of the terrace restaurants

Check-in to mountain guesthouse(30 minutes)

Stay overnight in Ehden to enjoy the cool mountain air. Guesthouses from $40-80/night. The Mounir Ehden guesthouse has views across the valley

Evening walk and stargazing(1.5 hours)

Mountain air is clear — the stars are stunning compared to Beirut. Walk through the quiet village streets past stone houses and churches

Morning hike into Qadisha Valley(3 hours)

Descend into the gorge from the Ehden side. Visit the monastery of Qannoubin — seat of the Maronite patriarchate for 500 years, carved into the cliff face. Moderate difficulty. Bring water and sturdy shoes

Lunch in Bcharre(1 hour)

Mountain trout and tabbouleh in a village restaurant with valley views. $10-15

Visit Hasroun or Hadath el-Jebbeh villages(1.5 hours)

Tiny mountain villages with red-roofed stone houses, historic churches, and time-warped atmosphere. Few tourists. The epitome of authentic mountain Lebanon

Return to Beirut(2.5 hours)

Scenic mountain road descent through the Kadisha valley and coastal highway

Drive to Ghazir (Chateau Musar)(30 minutes)

Chateau Musar is 25 km north of Beirut. Book a tour in advance

Chateau Musar winery tour(2 hours)

Lebanon's most famous winery, producing through 15 years of civil war without missing a vintage. The 150-year-old cellars and tasting of their legendary red blend ($15-20 for full tasting)

Chateau Kefraya(1.5 hours)

Beautiful estate with formal gardens. Tour the cellars and taste their Comte de M ($10 tasting). Buy bottles for $8-25

Late lunch at a Bekaa farmhouse(1.5 hours)

Home-cooked Bekaa specialties — labneh, olives, fresh vegetables, grilled meats. $10-15 per person. The kind of meal you can't find in restaurants

Sleep in and late breakfast(2 hours)

Manoushe from a neighborhood bakery — za'atar or cheese or mixed ($1-2). Eaten standing or walking, as locals do

Explore a new neighborhood(2.5 hours)

Verdun for shopping (ABC Mall, designer stores), Badaro for hipster cafes and Beirut's emerging art scene, or Ras Beirut for more traditional shops and atmosphere

Lunch at any local spot(1 hour)

By now you know what you love. Return to a favorite or try something new — a shawarma from Barbar ($3-4) is a Beirut institution, open 24 hours

Farewell drinks at rooftop bar(2 hours)

The Penthouse at Smallville Hotel in Badaro has panoramic city views. Cocktails $8-12. Watch Beirut light up at dusk

Drive to Anjar(1 hour)

In the central Bekaa Valley. An Armenian town surrounding a unique archaeological site

Anjar ruins(1.5 hours)

An 8th-century Umayyad city — the only significant Umayyad remains in Lebanon. Grand palace, mosque, baths, and colonnaded streets. UNESCO World Heritage. Entry ~$5. Few tourists — often you'll have it to yourself

Lunch at an Armenian restaurant in Anjar(1 hour)

The town was settled by Armenian genocide survivors. Try manti, grilled kebabs, and lahmajun in a family-run restaurant. $8-12

Arak distillery visit(1.5 hours)

Visit a small arak distillery in the Bekaa — the anise-flavored spirit is Lebanon's national drink. Watch the distillation process, taste different ages. Buy bottles from $5

Zahleh — wine bars along the Berdawni River(2 hours)

The capital of the Bekaa is famous for its riverside restaurants along the Berdawni. Mezze, arak, and live music under the trees. A quintessentially Lebanese evening

Early morning photography walk — Gemmayzeh to Mar Mikhael(2 hours)

The street art, Ottoman facades, and morning light make this the best photo walk in Beirut. Start at Gouraud Street and wind through side alleys. The staircases connecting streets are particularly photogenic

Souk el Tayeb farmers' market (if Saturday)(1.5 hours)

Local farmers selling za'atar, olive oil, cheese, honey. Taste everything. If not Saturday, visit the Souk el Tayeb shop for the same products

Lunch at Falafel Sahyoun(30 minutes)

The most famous falafel in Beirut — two competing shops side by side near Martyrs' Square since 1933. Crispy, herbed, perfect. A wrap costs $2. There's always a queue — that's how you know

Visit Plan BEY and independent design shops(2 hours)

Browse locally designed jewelry, ceramics, and clothing. Lebanon has a thriving design scene. Orient 499 for high-end crafts, Sarah's Bag for recycled-fabric bags made by women in prison

Final sunset at Raouche(1 hour)

One last sunset watching Pigeon Rocks. This view never gets old

Farewell dinner(2 hours)

Grand finale at Babel in Dbayeh — a legendary restaurant with over 60 mezze dishes. The shish barak (lamb dumplings in yogurt) and their arak are unmissable. $30-40 per person

Lebanese breakfast at Al Soussi(1 hour)

One last foul mudammas and manoushe at the Hamra institution. Under $5. Arrive before 9 AM

Pick up last souvenirs(1 hour)

Za'atar blend, arak, olive oil soap, and Lebanese coffee from Hamra shops. Pack carefully — glass bottles in checked luggage

Airport transfer and departure(45 minutes)

BEY is 9 km south. Bolt ($10-15). Allow 2.5 hours before international flights. The duty-free has excellent Lebanese wine if you still have room