The Complete Guide to Beirut: Everything You Need to Know Before You Go
Beirut is the kind of city that travel guides struggle with. It doesn't fit neatly into boxes. It's not a beach destination, though it's on the Mediterranean. It's not a nightlife capital, though it has one of the best scenes in the world. It's not a food city — it's THE food city of the Middle East. This guide covers everything from getting in to getting around, where to eat, where to sleep, and the day trips that make Beirut more than a long weekend.
Overview
Beirut sits on a peninsula jutting into the Mediterranean, and it's been here for 5,000 years in various forms. The city's been Phoenician, Roman, Ottoman, French-colonial, and now it's just intensely, unapologetically itself. A population of 2.4 million in the metro area packs into neighborhoods that change character every few blocks.
The key thing to understand: Lebanon's economy has been in crisis, which means the USD is king. This makes Beirut paradoxically affordable for Western visitors — mid-range meals for $15, cocktails for $5, hotel rooms for $40-60. You're not exploiting the situation by visiting. Tourism is one of the things keeping the economy breathing.
Best Time to Visit
April to June and September to November. This is Mediterranean climate at its finest — 20-28°C, clear skies, low humidity. Summers (July-August) push past 30°C with sticky humidity. Winters are mild but rainy, with mountain skiing just 90 minutes from the coast if you're into that.
Spring is when the Cedar forests in the mountains are green and the Bekaa Valley wineries are in full bloom. Fall brings slightly cheaper rates and the beginning of olive harvest season.
Getting There
Rafic Hariri International Airport (BEY) sits 9 kilometers south of the city center. Direct flights from major European hubs (Paris, London, Frankfurt, Istanbul), Gulf cities, and Cairo. No direct flights from the US — connect through Istanbul, Paris, or Doha.
Important: Your passport cannot contain any Israeli stamps. Entry will be denied on the spot. If you've been to Israel, use a passport without stamps or get a new one.
Citizens of 70+ countries (US, EU, UK, Canada, Australia) get a free visa on arrival for 30 days. Passport needs 6 months validity. The process is painless — usually under 10 minutes.
Getting Around
Airport to city: Use Bolt or Otofare apps — $10-15, about 20 minutes. Avoid unmarked taxis.
Within Beirut: Walk in the central neighborhoods (Hamra, Gemmayzeh, Mar Mikhael, Achrafieh, Downtown). They're compact and connected. For anything further, use Bolt. Regular taxis exist but rarely use meters and the negotiation isn't worth the energy.
Day trips: Hire a driver for $60-100/day. This is the most efficient way to reach Byblos, Jeita Grotto, Baalbek, and the Cedars. Public transport exists but is unreliable and infrequent. Your hotel can arrange a driver — ask the night before.
Service taxis: Shared taxis with white plates run along main routes for $1-2 per ride. You flag them down and tell them where you're going. If they're going that direction, they nod.
Where to Stay
Hamra: The intellectual heart. Walking distance to the Corniche, AUB campus, and excellent street food. Mid-range hotels $40-80/night. Best for solo travelers and first-timers.
Gemmayzeh/Mar Mikhael: Nightlife central. Boutique hotels and Airbnbs in Ottoman-era buildings. $50-100/night. Best if you plan to be out late.
Achrafieh: Upscale, quieter, more residential. Good restaurants, less nightlife noise. $60-120/night. Best for couples.
Downtown (BCD): Reconstructed and somewhat sterile compared to other neighborhoods. Luxury hotels (Le Gray, The Smallville). $100-200/night. Convenient but lacks the character of Hamra or Gemmayzeh.
What to Do
In the City
Corniche walk (free, 2 hours) — Ain el-Mreisseh to Raouche Rocks. Go at sunset. Buy ka'ak bread from a cart.
Beirut National Museum ($0.50 entry, 2 hours) — 100,000+ artifacts, 5,000 years of history. The Phoenician sarcophagi collection alone is worth it.
Sursock Museum (free, 1.5 hours) — Contemporary Lebanese art in a stunning 19th-century mansion.
Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque (free) — The blue-domed icon of downtown, next to St. George Cathedral.
Gemmayzeh street art walk (free, 1 hour) — Self-guided through the graffiti-covered streets.
Day Trips
Byblos/Jbeil (40 km north, half day) — 7,000-year-old ruins, Crusader castle, old harbor seafood. $5 entry.
Jeita Grotto (18 km north, 2-3 hours) — Limestone cave system with underground boat ride. $18 entry.
Harissa (combine with Jeita, 1.5 hours) — Cable car to the Virgin Mary statue. $8 cable car.
Baalbek (85 km northeast, full day) — Roman temple complex rivaling anything in Rome. $7 entry.
Ksara/Kefraya wineries (Bekaa Valley, combine with Baalbek) — Free tours and tastings.
Food
Skip every guide that tells you to "try the hummus." Yes, the hummus is better here than anywhere. But that's not the story.
The story is this: at a traditional Lebanese restaurant, you don't order mains. You order mezze. Six to eight dishes arrive on small plates — hummus, tabbouleh, fattoush, kibbeh, muhammara, labneh, baba ghanoush, sambousek. This feeds 2-3 people for $15-25. Add a bottle of local arak for $8.
Where to eat:
Em Sherif (Achrafieh) — Upscale, $40-60/person, the mezze just appears. Reservations mandatory.
Tawlet (Mar Mikhael) — Farm-to-table daily buffet by a different regional cook each day. $20-25 lunch.
Enab (Gemmayzeh) — 200-year-old Lebanese house, fattoush with sumac and pomegranate molasses. $15-20 for two.
Al Soussi (Hamra) — Hole-in-the-wall since the 1950s. Foul, hummus with meat, manoushe. Under $5.
Abou Tarek (Bourj Hammoud) — Armenian quarter. Lahmajun and soujouk. Full meal under $5.
Baron (Mar Mikhael) — Wine and charcuterie. $15-20.
Budget
Carry USD cash — fresh $50 and $100 bills for the best exchange rates at money changers. Many restaurants price in USD directly.
Category
Daily Budget
Budget traveler
$30-50
Mid-range
$60-100
Comfortable
$100-150
A typical mid-range day: $50 hotel + $20 food + $15 transport + $10 entry fees = $95.
Safety
Check your government's travel advisory before booking — Lebanon has experienced periods of instability. That said, central Beirut (Hamra, Achrafieh, Gemmayzeh, Downtown) is generally safe for tourists. Avoid large demonstrations and the southern suburbs (Dahieh) unless you're with a local guide.
Beirut has very low petty crime compared to most European capitals. The biggest "danger" is the driving — which is genuinely chaotic. Look both ways, then look again.
Useful Phrases
Arabic is official, but French and English are widely spoken. Most restaurant menus are in Arabic, French, and English.
Marhaba — Hello
Shukran — Thank you
Kifak/Kifik — How are you? (male/female)
Yalla — Let's go (you'll hear this constantly)
Sahteen — Bon appetit (literally "two healths")
Addesh? — How much?
If ancient ruins fascinate you, Petra in Jordan offers another jaw-dropping archaeological experience.
For a completely different Middle Eastern landscape, the red desert of Wadi Rum pairs perfectly with a Beirut trip.
Travelers exploring the wider Middle East often combine Beirut with Dubai for a contrast in Mediterranean and Gulf cultures.
The Practical Stuff
Electricity: 220V, Type C and D plugs. Power cuts are frequent — most hotels have generators.
WiFi: Available everywhere but speeds vary wildly.
SIM card: Get one at the airport or a shop on Hamra Street. ~$10-15 for a tourist SIM with data.
Tipping: 10-15% at restaurants if service charge isn't already included.
Drinking water: Bottled only. Tap water is not safe.
Prayer times: Don't significantly affect daily life in Beirut, unlike in Gulf countries.
Beirut is a city that'll frustrate you, charm you, overfeed you, and keep you up until dawn. It's not easy travel. But the best travel rarely is.
