Buenos Aires
Photo: Chalo Gallardo / Unsplash
Key Facts
Best Time to Visit
March to May or September to November (autumn/spring, 15-25°C)
Language
Spanish (Rioplatense dialect with Italian-influenced pronunciation)
Currency
Argentine Peso (ARS); US Dollar widely used in parallel economy
Time Zone
Argentina Time (UTC-3), no daylight saving
Airport
Ministro Pistarini International Airport (EZE); Aeroparque (AEP) for domestic
Population
15.6 million (metro area)
Climate
Humid subtropical, avg 10-28°C, no extreme seasons, occasional summer humidity
Safety Rating
Exercise Increased Caution (Level 2) — petty theft in tourist areas, otherwise safe
Top Highlights
La Boca & Caminito
A colorful working-class neighborhood famous for its painted tin houses and street tango performers. Caminito (the main pedestrian street) is free to explore. Visit daytime only — the area beyond Caminito can be sketchy. La Bombonera stadium (Boca Juniors) offers tours for ~ARS 5,000 (~$5 USD).
Recoleta Cemetery
An extraordinary city of the dead with 4,700 ornate marble mausoleums, including Eva Perón's tomb. Free entry. Open daily 7AM-5:30PM. Free English-language guided tours Tue-Fri at 11AM. The adjacent Iglesia del Pilar and weekend artisan fair (Sat-Sun) are worth combining.
San Telmo Sunday Market
Buenos Aires' premier antiques and artisan market stretching 10 blocks along Calle Defensa every Sunday 10AM-5PM. Free entry. Browse vintage tango records, silverware, and leather goods. Live tango dancers perform at Plaza Dorrego. Go early to browse, late for atmosphere.
Teatro Colón
One of the world's finest opera houses, with acoustics ranked among the top 5 globally. Guided tours: ~ARS 8,000 (~$8 USD), every 15 minutes daily. Performance tickets: ARS 3,000-50,000 depending on seat. The 7-story building took 18 years to complete (1908). Book performances at teatrocolon.org.ar.
Parrilla (Steakhouse) Experience
Argentine beef is world-famous and Buenos Aires is the temple. A full asado meal with bife de chorizo, morcilla, and provoleta plus Malbec wine costs ~ARS 15,000-25,000 (~$15-25 USD). Don Julio in Palermo (reservations essential) and El Desnivel in San Telmo (no reservations, expect a wait) are top picks.
Milonga Tango Experience
Milongas are social tango dance halls where locals and visitors dance together. Confitería Ideal and La Catedral are beginner-friendly. Entry: ~ARS 3,000-5,000. Group lessons before the milonga: ~ARS 2,000 extra. Start around 10PM, peak at midnight. Dress smartly — milongas have dress codes.
Palermo Soho & Hollywood
Buenos Aires' trendiest neighborhoods with independent boutiques, craft cocktail bars, and some of the city's best restaurants. Free to explore. Plaza Serrano has a weekend artisan fair. Street art is everywhere — take a walking tour with Graffitimundo (~$25 USD). Best brunch scene in the city.
Planned Itinerary
7-Day Buenos Aires Itinerary
Arrival & Palermo Orientation
Arrive at Ezeiza Airport (EZE) and transfer to your hotel in Palermo, Recoleta, or San Telmo. Buenos Aires runs late — dinner doesn't start until 9PM, so settle in and explore your neighborhood.
Transfer from EZE to city center(1 hour)
Tienda León shuttle bus to Retiro station ~ARS 5,000 (~$5 USD). Uber from EZE ~ARS 15,000 (~$15 USD). Regular taxis are more expensive and less reliable
Walk through Palermo Soho(2 hours)
Tree-lined streets, independent boutiques, street art, and craft cocktail bars. Plaza Serrano is the hub. Free to explore
Get a SUBE card at a kiosko(15 minutes)
~ARS 2,000. Works on subte (metro), buses, and trains. Subte rides ~ARS 200 (~$0.20 USD)
Dinner at Don Julio in Palermo(2 hours)
Consistently ranked the best parrilla in Buenos Aires. Bife de chorizo, provoleta, and Malbec. ~ARS 25,000 per person (~$25 USD). Reservations essential — book online weeks ahead
Recoleta & Centro
The grand European-style neighborhoods — Recoleta's cemetery and park, then the architectural landmarks of downtown.
Recoleta Cemetery(1.5 hours)
4,700 ornate marble mausoleums including Eva Perón's tomb. Free entry. Open 7AM-5:30PM. Free English tours Tue-Fri at 11AM
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes(1.5 hours)
Argentina's premier art museum with Rodin, Monet, and Argentine masters. Free entry. Open Tue-Sun 11AM-7PM. 5-minute walk from the cemetery
Lunch at El Cuartito near Teatro Colón(1 hour)
Open since 1934. The quintessential BA pizza joint — thick, cheesy fugazzeta (onion pizza) and moscato wine. ~ARS 5,000 for a pizza. Cash only
Teatro Colón guided tour(1 hour)
One of the world's top 5 opera houses. Tours ~ARS 8,000 every 15 minutes. The 7-story building has acoustics ranked among the best globally
Walk Avenida 9 de Julio and the Obelisco(30 minutes)
The world's widest avenue (140 meters). The Obelisco is the city's icon. Free
San Telmo & La Boca
Buenos Aires' oldest neighborhoods — colonial architecture, street tango, and the colorful birthplace of both Boca Juniors and tango itself.
San Telmo morning walk(1.5 hours)
Cobblestone streets lined with antique shops. Plaza Dorrego is the heart. If Sunday, the Feria de San Telmo market stretches 10 blocks on Calle Defensa, 10AM-5PM
Breakfast at Café Dorrego(45 minutes)
A traditional café on Plaza Dorrego since 1884. Medialunas (croissants) and café con leche ~ARS 3,000. Old-world atmosphere
Walk to La Boca and Caminito(2 hours)
30-minute walk south. The colorful painted tin houses and street tango performers are iconic. Free. Visit daytime only — don't wander beyond the tourist area
La Bombonera stadium tour(1 hour)
Boca Juniors' legendary stadium. Tours ~ARS 5,000 (~$5 USD). The museum chronicles Argentine football history. If a match is on, buy tickets through the club site for an unforgettable atmosphere
Dinner at El Desnivel in San Telmo(1.5 hours)
No reservations — expect a wait. Wood-fired parrilla with bife de chorizo, morcilla, and chimichurri. ~ARS 15,000 per person. One of the best value steakhouses in the city
Tango Night & Free Afternoon
Rest during the day and prepare for a proper evening of tango — a group lesson followed by a milonga where locals dance until dawn.
Brunch at Oui Oui in Palermo(1.5 hours)
The best brunch in Palermo Hollywood. Shakshuka, French toast, and craft coffee. ~ARS 8,000 per person. Weekend waits
Street art walking tour with Graffitimundo(2.5 hours)
~$25 USD per person. Guided tour of Buenos Aires' world-class street art scene in Palermo and Villa Crespo. Book at graffitimundo.com
Rest and afternoon free time(2 hours)
Buenos Aires milongas peak at midnight. Take a nap and get ready
Group tango lesson at La Catedral(1.5 hours)
Lessons before the milonga ~ARS 2,000. La Catedral in Almagro is beginner-friendly with a bohemian warehouse atmosphere
Milonga at La Catedral or Confitería Ideal(3 hours)
Entry ~ARS 3,000-5,000. Dancing starts around 10PM, peaks at midnight. Dress smartly — milongas have dress codes. Watch the cabeceo (head nod invitation)
Tigre Delta Day Trip
Take the train north to the Paraná Delta — a maze of river islands with Victorian houses, rowing clubs, and fruit markets just 30 minutes from downtown.
Tren de la Costa or Mitre train to Tigre(1 hour)
Mitre line from Retiro ~ARS 200 with SUBE. The Tren de la Costa is scenic but pricier (~ARS 3,000)
Puerto de Frutos market(1.5 hours)
Tigre's waterfront market with handicrafts, wicker furniture, and regional foods. Open daily. Free entry
River boat tour of the delta(2 hours)
Lanchas colectivas (water buses) depart from the Estación Fluvial for ~ARS 2,000 round trip. See Victorian-era rowing clubs, riverside restaurants, and tropical vegetation
Lunch at El Gato Blanco on the river(1.5 hours)
Arrive by boat. Fresh river fish and empanadas on a wooden deck. Mains ~ARS 8,000-15,000. Call ahead for a boat pickup
Rest Day — Palermo Parks & Wine
A gentler day strolling through parks, visiting a museum, and ending with a Malbec tasting.
Walk through Bosques de Palermo(1.5 hours)
The city's green lung — a 25-hectare park with a Japanese Garden (~ARS 3,000 entry), rose garden (free), and planetarium. Rent a pedal boat on the lake
MALBA museum(1.5 hours)
Museum of Latin American Art on Avenida Figueroa Alcorta. Entry ~ARS 5,000 (free Wednesdays). Frida Kahlo, Antonio Berni, and contemporary Latin American art
Lunch at Sarkis in Palermo(1.5 hours)
Armenian restaurant with incredible hummus, lahmajun, and kebabs. ~ARS 8,000 per person. Always busy — arrive by 12:30PM
Argentine wine tasting at Anuva Wines(2 hours)
Boutique wine shop and tasting room in Palermo. Guided tastings of 5 Argentine wines (Malbec, Torrontés, Bonarda) for ~$30 USD per person. Book at anuvawines.com
Farewell dinner at Proper in Palermo(2 hours)
Modern Argentine cuisine with a daily-changing menu. One of the city's most exciting restaurants. Tasting menu ~ARS 30,000 (~$30 USD). Book ahead
Final Morning & Departure
Last café con leche, last medialunas, last walk through the grand avenues.
Morning café at Café Tortoni(1 hour)
The oldest café in Buenos Aires (1858) on Avenida de Mayo. Expect a short line. Café con leche and medialunas ~ARS 3,000. Tango shows in the basement some evenings
Walk Avenida de Mayo to Congress(45 minutes)
Grand boulevard connecting Plaza de Mayo (Casa Rosada) to the Congress building. Art Nouveau architecture, bookshops, and the Palacio Barolo
Last-minute shopping at Galerías Pacífico(1 hour)
Beautiful mall in a Beaux-Arts building with murals on the ceiling. Argentine leather goods, wines, and dulce de leche to take home
Transfer to EZE airport(1 hour)
Tienda León shuttle ~ARS 5,000. Allow 3 hours for international flights. Buy alfajores and Malbec at duty-free
14-Day Buenos Aires Itinerary
Arrival & Palermo Orientation
Arrive at EZE and settle into Palermo, Recoleta, or San Telmo. Buenos Aires runs late — dinner at 9PM is early here.
Transfer from EZE(1 hour)
Tienda León shuttle ~ARS 5,000 or Uber ~ARS 15,000
Walk Palermo Soho(2 hours)
Boutiques, street art, cocktail bars. Plaza Serrano is the hub
Get SUBE card at a kiosko(15 minutes)
~ARS 2,000. Subte rides ~ARS 200
Dinner at Don Julio(2 hours)
Best parrilla in BA. Bife de chorizo and Malbec. ~ARS 25,000. Reserve weeks ahead
Recoleta & Museo de Bellas Artes
Grand European-style Buenos Aires — ornate cemetery, world-class art, and tree-lined boulevards.
Recoleta Cemetery(1.5 hours)
4,700 mausoleums including Eva Perón's. Free. English tours Tue-Fri 11AM
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes(1.5 hours)
Rodin, Monet, Argentine masters. Free. Tue-Sun 11AM-7PM
Lunch at El Cuartito(1 hour)
Since 1934. Fugazzeta pizza and moscato. ~ARS 5,000. Cash only
Teatro Colón tour(1 hour)
Top 5 opera house globally. Tours ~ARS 8,000 every 15 min
San Telmo & La Boca
Buenos Aires' oldest neighborhoods with antiques, street tango, and colorful tin houses.
San Telmo morning walk(1.5 hours)
Cobblestones and antiques. Sunday Feria is 10 blocks on Calle Defensa
Café Dorrego breakfast(45 minutes)
Since 1884. Medialunas and café con leche ~ARS 3,000
La Boca and Caminito(2 hours)
Painted tin houses, street tango. Daytime only. Free
La Bombonera tour(1 hour)
Boca Juniors stadium. ~ARS 5,000
Dinner at El Desnivel(1.5 hours)
Wood-fired parrilla. ~ARS 15,000. No reservations, expect a wait
Street Art Tour & Tango Night
Morning art tour, afternoon rest, then an evening of authentic tango — lesson and milonga.
Graffitimundo street art tour(2.5 hours)
~$25 USD. Palermo and Villa Crespo's world-class murals
Brunch at Oui Oui(1.5 hours)
Best brunch in Palermo Hollywood. ~ARS 8,000
Afternoon rest(3 hours)
Milongas peak at midnight — save your energy
Group tango lesson at La Catedral(1.5 hours)
Beginner-friendly. ~ARS 2,000
Milonga dancing(3 hours)
Entry ~ARS 3,000-5,000. Dress smartly. Watch the cabeceo
Tigre Delta Day Trip
Train north to the Paraná Delta — river islands, Victorian houses, and fruit markets.
Mitre train to Tigre(1 hour)
From Retiro ~ARS 200 with SUBE
Puerto de Frutos market(1.5 hours)
Waterfront handicrafts and regional foods. Free
River boat tour(2 hours)
Lanchas colectivas ~ARS 2,000 round trip. Victorian rowing clubs and tropical vegetation
Lunch at El Gato Blanco(1.5 hours)
River fish on a wooden deck. Mains ~ARS 8,000-15,000. Arrive by boat
Rest Day — Parks, MALBA & Wine
Gentle day in Palermo's parks, Latin American art, and an Argentine wine tasting.
Bosques de Palermo(1.5 hours)
Japanese Garden (~ARS 3,000), rose garden (free), lake paddleboats
MALBA museum(1.5 hours)
Latin American art. ~ARS 5,000 (free Wednesdays)
Lunch at Sarkis(1.5 hours)
Armenian. Hummus, lahmajun, kebabs. ~ARS 8,000. Arrive by 12:30
Wine tasting at Anuva Wines(2 hours)
5 Argentine wines for ~$30 USD. Book at anuvawines.com
Mataderos Fair & Local BA
Sunday at the authentic Feria de Mataderos — gaucho culture, folk music, and empanadas far from the tourist trail.
Bus #55 to Mataderos(45 minutes)
From Palermo. SUBE card required. The fair runs Sundays 11AM-8PM (April-December)
Feria de Mataderos(3 hours)
Gaucho horsemanship demonstrations, folk dancing, regional artisan crafts, and food stalls. Free entry. Buy gaucho knives, ponchos, and regional foods. Empanadas ~ARS 500 each
Late lunch at the fair(1 hour)
Locro (Andean corn stew), humitas (corn tamales), and asado from the parrilla stalls. ~ARS 5,000 for a feast
Evening bookshop crawl on Av. Corrientes(2 hours)
Buenos Aires' Broadway has theatres and bookshops open until midnight. El Ateneo Grand Splendid (bookshop in a former theatre) is a must-see
Colonia del Sacramento Day Trip (Uruguay)
Take the fast ferry across the Río de la Plata to this UNESCO-listed Portuguese colonial town in Uruguay — a completely different country in 1 hour.
Buquebus ferry to Colonia del Sacramento(1 hour)
Fast ferry ~$50-80 USD round trip. Departs from Puerto Madero terminal. Book at buquebus.com. Passport required (Uruguay stamps you in)
Explore the Barrio Histórico(2.5 hours)
Cobblestone streets, Portuguese colonial ruins, the iconic lighthouse (climb for views, ~$2 USD), and Calle de los Suspiros. UNESCO World Heritage. Free to walk
Lunch at El Drugstore on the waterfront(1.5 hours)
Eclectic restaurant covered in vintage memorabilia. Grilled meats and Uruguayan tannat wine. Mains ~$15-20 USD
Sunset from the pier(1 hour)
Watch the sun set over the Río de la Plata from the waterfront. On clear days you can see Buenos Aires
Cooking Class & Villa Crespo
Learn to make empanadas and dulce de leche in the morning, then explore the emerging food neighborhood of Villa Crespo.
Argentine cooking class(4 hours)
Argentine Cooking Classes in Palermo ~$60 USD. Learn empanadas, provoleta, choripán, and alfajores with dulce de leche. Includes market visit and wine pairing
Walk through Villa Crespo(1.5 hours)
The next Palermo — leather outlet shops on Calle Murillo, emerging restaurants, and craft breweries without the tourist markup
Coffee at Lattente in Villa Crespo(45 minutes)
Specialty coffee pioneers in BA. Single-origin pour-overs and espresso. ~ARS 2,500
Dinner at Narda Comedor in Villa Crespo(1.5 hours)
Chef Narda Lepes' neighborhood restaurant. Seasonal Argentine cuisine with global influences. Set menu ~ARS 15,000 (~$15 USD). Reservations recommended
Rest Day — Café Culture & Bookshops
A slow Buenos Aires day — the city's legendary cafés, bookshops, and parks without an agenda.
Breakfast at Las Violetas in Almagro(1.5 hours)
Grand café from 1884 with stained glass and marble. Their afternoon tea service is famous but breakfast is quieter. Medialunas and churros ~ARS 4,000
El Ateneo Grand Splendid(1 hour)
Possibly the world's most beautiful bookshop — a 1919 theatre converted into a bookstore. Free to browse. Café on the old stage
Lunch at Gran Dabbang in Palermo(1 hour)
Peruvian-Asian-Argentine fusion. Adventurous flavors, no menu — chef decides. ~ARS 12,000 per person. Fun and delicious
Afternoon in Parque 3 de Febrero(2 hours)
Stroll through the rose garden, rent a paddleboat on the lake, or just sit on a bench with mate
Evening at a tango show(2 hours)
If you want a polished performance rather than a milonga: Café de los Angelitos or Rojo Tango at Hotel Faena. Shows ~$50-150 USD including dinner
Puerto Madero & Costanera Sur
Buenos Aires' waterfront redevelopment and the surprising ecological reserve right next to it.
Walk through Puerto Madero(1.5 hours)
Converted docklands with modern skyscrapers and the Puente de la Mujer (Calatrava bridge). The frigate Presidente Sarmiento is a floating museum (~ARS 2,000)
Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur(2 hours)
A 350-hectare nature reserve on reclaimed land with walking trails, birdwatching (350+ species), and river views. Free. Open 8AM-6PM. Bring binoculars
Lunch at Chila in Puerto Madero(2 hours)
One of Argentina's top restaurants with Río de la Plata views. Tasting menu ~ARS 40,000 (~$40 USD). Pedro Bargero's modern Argentine cuisine is extraordinary
Sunset walk along Costanera Sur(1 hour)
The riverside promenade fills with joggers and mate drinkers at golden hour
Feria de San Telmo & Antiques
If you haven't done a Sunday yet, this is the day for the legendary San Telmo market. If you have, explore the antique shops and hidden bars of San Telmo at a deeper level.
Feria de San Telmo Sunday market(3 hours)
10 blocks on Calle Defensa, 10AM-5PM. Vintage tango records, silverware, leather goods. Live tango at Plaza Dorrego. Go early to browse, late for atmosphere
Brunch at Coffee Town in San Telmo(1 hour)
Specialty coffee and brunch in a restored colonial building. Eggs benny and flat whites. ~ARS 6,000
Browse antique shops on Calle Defensa(1.5 hours)
Even on non-market days, the permanent antique shops have vintage furniture, art, and curiosities
Speakeasy cocktails at Florería Atlántico(1.5 hours)
Ranked among the world's best bars. Enter through a flower shop, descend to a basement bar. Argentine-inspired cocktails ~ARS 5,000. Open from 6PM. No reservation needed but expect a wait
Palermo Hollywood & Farewell Asado
The final full day — explore the studio-heavy neighborhood of Palermo Hollywood and end with a proper Argentine asado experience.
Morning run or walk along Costanera Norte(1 hour)
The riverside promenade in Palermo. Runners, cyclists, and mate drinkers. Views of the Río de la Plata
Brunch at Ninina Bakery in Palermo(1 hour)
Artisan pastries, sourdough toasts, and specialty coffee. ~ARS 6,000. Their babka is legendary
Last shopping at Plaza Serrano weekend fair(1.5 hours)
If weekend — artisan crafts, leather goods, and handmade jewelry. Good for unique souvenirs
Closed-door restaurant (puerta cerrada) asado experience(3 hours)
Book through The Argentine Experience or Casa SaltShaker. Private dining events in someone's home with full asado, wine pairing, and local company. ~$60-80 USD per person. Book days ahead
Final Morning & Departure
Last café con leche and medialunas before heading to the airport.
Café Tortoni(1 hour)
Oldest café in BA (1858) on Avenida de Mayo. Medialunas and café con leche ~ARS 3,000
Walk Avenida de Mayo to Casa Rosada(45 minutes)
Grand boulevard. Art Nouveau architecture. Casa Rosada (Pink House) is the presidential palace
Last shopping at Galerías Pacífico(1 hour)
Beaux-Arts mall with ceiling murals. Leather goods, wines, dulce de leche
Transfer to EZE(1 hour)
Tienda León ~ARS 5,000. Allow 3 hours for international. Buy alfajores and Malbec at duty-free
21-Day Buenos Aires Itinerary
Arrival & Palermo Orientation
Arrive at EZE and settle into Palermo, Recoleta, or San Telmo. Buenos Aires runs late — dinner at 9PM is early here.
Transfer from EZE(1 hour)
Tienda León shuttle ~ARS 5,000 or Uber ~ARS 15,000
Walk Palermo Soho(2 hours)
Boutiques, street art, cocktail bars. Plaza Serrano is the hub
Get SUBE card at a kiosko(15 minutes)
~ARS 2,000. Subte rides ~ARS 200
Dinner at Don Julio(2 hours)
Best parrilla in BA. Bife de chorizo and Malbec. ~ARS 25,000. Reserve weeks ahead
Recoleta & Museo de Bellas Artes
Grand European-style Buenos Aires — ornate cemetery, world-class art, and tree-lined boulevards.
Recoleta Cemetery(1.5 hours)
4,700 mausoleums including Eva Perón's. Free
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes(1.5 hours)
Rodin, Monet, Argentine masters. Free
Lunch at El Cuartito(1 hour)
Since 1934. Fugazzeta pizza and moscato. ~ARS 5,000. Cash only
Teatro Colón tour(1 hour)
Top 5 opera house globally. Tours ~ARS 8,000
San Telmo & La Boca
Buenos Aires' oldest neighbourhoods with antiques, street tango, and colourful tin houses.
San Telmo morning walk(1.5 hours)
Cobblestones and antiques. Sunday Feria is 10 blocks on Calle Defensa
Café Dorrego breakfast(45 minutes)
Since 1884. Medialunas and café con leche ~ARS 3,000
La Boca and Caminito(2 hours)
Painted tin houses, street tango. Daytime only. Free
La Bombonera tour(1 hour)
Boca Juniors stadium. ~ARS 5,000
Dinner at El Desnivel(1.5 hours)
Wood-fired parrilla. ~ARS 15,000
Street Art Tour & Tango Night
Morning art tour, afternoon rest, then authentic tango.
Graffitimundo street art tour(2.5 hours)
~$25 USD. Palermo and Villa Crespo murals
Brunch at Oui Oui(1.5 hours)
Best brunch in Palermo Hollywood. ~ARS 8,000
Afternoon rest(3 hours)
Milongas peak at midnight
Group tango lesson at La Catedral(1.5 hours)
Beginner-friendly. ~ARS 2,000
Milonga dancing(3 hours)
Entry ~ARS 3,000-5,000. Watch the cabeceo
Tigre Delta Day Trip
Train north to the Paraná Delta — river islands, Victorian houses, and fruit markets.
Mitre train to Tigre(1 hour)
From Retiro ~ARS 200 with SUBE
Puerto de Frutos market(1.5 hours)
Waterfront handicrafts. Free
River boat tour(2 hours)
Lanchas colectivas ~ARS 2,000 round trip
Lunch at El Gato Blanco(1.5 hours)
River fish on a wooden deck. Mains ~ARS 8,000-15,000
Rest Day — Parks, MALBA & Wine
Gentle day in Palermo's parks, Latin American art, and Argentine wine tasting.
Bosques de Palermo(1.5 hours)
Japanese Garden (~ARS 3,000), rose garden (free), paddleboats
MALBA museum(1.5 hours)
Latin American art. ~ARS 5,000
Lunch at Sarkis(1.5 hours)
Armenian. Hummus, lahmajun, kebabs. ~ARS 8,000
Wine tasting at Anuva Wines(2 hours)
5 Argentine wines for ~$30 USD
Mataderos Fair & Local BA
Sunday at the authentic Feria de Mataderos — gaucho culture far from the tourist trail.
Bus #55 to Mataderos(45 minutes)
Fair runs Sundays 11AM-8PM (April-December)
Feria de Mataderos(3 hours)
Gaucho horsemanship, folk dancing, artisan crafts. Free entry. Empanadas ~ARS 500
Late lunch at the fair(1 hour)
Locro, humitas, and asado. ~ARS 5,000
Evening bookshop crawl on Av. Corrientes(2 hours)
El Ateneo Grand Splendid — bookshop in a former theatre
Colonia del Sacramento Day Trip (Uruguay)
Fast ferry across the Río de la Plata to this UNESCO-listed Portuguese colonial town.
Buquebus ferry to Colonia del Sacramento(1 hour)
~$50-80 USD round trip. Passport required
Explore the Barrio Histórico(2.5 hours)
Cobblestone streets, lighthouse ($2 USD), Calle de los Suspiros. UNESCO World Heritage
Lunch at El Drugstore(1.5 hours)
Grilled meats and Uruguayan tannat wine. Mains ~$15-20 USD
Cooking Class & Villa Crespo
Argentine cooking in the morning, emerging food neighbourhood of Villa Crespo in the afternoon.
Argentine cooking class(4 hours)
~$60 USD. Empanadas, provoleta, choripán, alfajores with dulce de leche
Walk through Villa Crespo(1.5 hours)
Leather outlet shops, emerging restaurants, craft breweries
Coffee at Lattente(45 minutes)
Specialty coffee pioneers. ~ARS 2,500
Dinner at Narda Comedor(1.5 hours)
Chef Narda Lepes. Seasonal Argentine cuisine. Set menu ~ARS 15,000
Rest Day — Café Culture & Bookshops
A slow Buenos Aires day — legendary cafés, bookshops, and parks.
Breakfast at Las Violetas in Almagro(1.5 hours)
Grand café from 1884. Medialunas and churros ~ARS 4,000
El Ateneo Grand Splendid(1 hour)
World's most beautiful bookshop — a 1919 theatre converted. Café on the old stage
Lunch at Gran Dabbang(1 hour)
Peruvian-Asian-Argentine fusion. ~ARS 12,000
Afternoon in Parque 3 de Febrero(2 hours)
Rose garden, paddleboats, mate on a bench
Evening tango show(2 hours)
Café de los Angelitos or Rojo Tango. ~$50-150 USD including dinner
Puerto Madero & Costanera Sur
Buenos Aires' waterfront redevelopment and ecological reserve.
Walk through Puerto Madero(1.5 hours)
Puente de la Mujer. Frigate museum (~ARS 2,000)
Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur(2 hours)
350-hectare nature reserve. Free. 350+ bird species
Lunch at Chila(2 hours)
Pedro Bargero's tasting menu ~ARS 40,000 (~$40 USD)
Feria de San Telmo & Antiques
Deep dive into San Telmo's market, antique shops, and hidden bars.
Feria de San Telmo Sunday market(3 hours)
10 blocks on Calle Defensa. Vintage tango records, leather goods. Live tango at Plaza Dorrego
Brunch at Coffee Town(1 hour)
Specialty coffee in a restored colonial building. ~ARS 6,000
Browse antique shops(1.5 hours)
Permanent shops have vintage furniture, art, and curiosities
Speakeasy cocktails at Florería Atlántico(1.5 hours)
Enter through a flower shop. World's best bar. Cocktails ~ARS 5,000
Montevideo Overnight (Uruguay) — Day 1
Take the ferry to Uruguay's capital for a 2-night stay. A completely different country with its own charm, pace, and cuisine.
Buquebus ferry to Montevideo(2.5 hours)
Fast ferry ~$80-120 USD round trip. Direct service. Passport required. The Río de la Plata is so wide it feels like an ocean crossing
Check-in at Ciudad Vieja hotel(1 hour)
Stay in the Old City for walkability. Don Hotel or Alma Histórica Boutique Hotel
Walk through Ciudad Vieja(2 hours)
The Puerta de la Ciudadela, the grand Teatro Solís (free tours Tue-Sun), and the pedestrianised Calle Sarandí with art galleries and bookshops
Lunch at Mercado del Puerto(1 hour)
The legendary market with parilla stalls. Grab a seat at any counter — El Palenque or El Peregrino. A massive grilled steak costs ~$12-18 USD. The house medio y medio (half sparkling wine, half white) is the traditional pairing
Sunset along La Rambla(1.5 hours)
Montevideo's 22 km waterfront promenade. Walk from Ciudad Vieja toward Pocitos. The sunset over the water is beautiful
Dinner at Jacinto in Ciudad Vieja(1.5 hours)
Modern Uruguayan cuisine in a colonial house. Farm-to-table. Mains ~$15-25 USD. Book ahead
Montevideo — Day 2 & Return
Morning exploring Montevideo's neighbourhoods, afternoon ferry back to Buenos Aires.
Breakfast at Escaramuza bookshop-café(1 hour)
The most charming café in Montevideo. Coffee and medialunas among bookshelves. ~$5-8 USD
Walk through Barrio Sur and Palermo (Montevideo)(2 hours)
The historically Afro-Uruguayan neighbourhoods. The Museo del Carnaval tells the story of candombe drumming — Uruguay's most important cultural expression. Entry ~$3 USD
Mercado Agrícola(1 hour)
Montevideo's food market in a beautiful Art Deco building. Local cheeses, wines, charcuterie. Less touristy than Mercado del Puerto
Lunch at La Fonda in Mercado Agrícola(1 hour)
Traditional Uruguayan dishes — chivito (steak sandwich), milanesa, and local wines. ~$10-15 USD
Rest Day — Recovery & Palermo Viejo
Recovery after the Uruguay trip. A lazy day in your neighbourhood.
Sleep in and late brunch at Cuervo Café(2 hours)
Hip Palermo café. Avocado toast and specialty coffee. ~ARS 6,000
Walk through Palermo Viejo(2 hours)
The quieter streets beyond Plaza Serrano. Independent design shops, small galleries, and tree-lined blocks
Afternoon mate in the park(2 hours)
Buy yerba mate and a thermos at any supermarket. Join the locals in Parque 3 de Febrero. This is the real Argentine experience
Dinner at Proper(1.5 hours)
Modern bistro in Palermo Hollywood. Excellent cocktails and seasonal small plates. Mains ~ARS 10,000-18,000
Estancia Day Trip — Gaucho Life
Full day at a working estancia (ranch) outside Buenos Aires for horsemanship, asado, and the gaucho experience.
Transfer to Estancia near San Antonio de Areco(2 hours)
Most estancias arrange pickup from Buenos Aires. ~$100-150 USD per person for the full day including lunch, drinks, and activities
Horseback riding on the pampa(2 hours)
Ride through the flat grasslands on criollo horses with a gaucho guide. All experience levels welcome. The vastness of the Argentine pampa is humbling
Traditional asado lunch(2 hours)
Whole-animal asado cooked over wood fire by the estancia's asador. Chorizo, morcilla, vacío, and ribs. Malbec and soda. This is the definitive Argentine meal
Gaucho skills demonstration(1 hour)
Watch boleadoras (lasso with stones), ring race, and folk dancing. Some estancias invite guests to try
Walk through San Antonio de Areco(1 hour)
Argentina's gaucho capital. Browse Ricardo Güiraldes museum and traditional silversmith shops
Belgrano & Chinese BA
Explore the residential neighbourhood of Belgrano with its Argentine-Chinese community and weekend fair.
Barrio Chino (Chinatown) in Belgrano(1.5 hours)
Buenos Aires has the largest Chinese community in South America. The Barrio Chino on Arribeños street has supermarkets, restaurants, and bubble tea. Dim sum at Lai Lai (~ARS 6,000)
Museo de Arte Español Enrique Larreta(1 hour)
Spanish colonial art in a stunning Andalusian garden mansion. ~ARS 1,000. In Belgrano
Walk Barrancas de Belgrano park(1 hour)
Beautiful park on a hill with weekend tango dancing in the bandstand. Free
Lunch at La Mezzetta in Belgrano(1 hour)
Classic Argentine pizza joint. Fugazzeta and fainá. ~ARS 5,000. No frills, all flavour
Dinner at Elena at Four Seasons(2 hours)
One of Buenos Aires' finest steakhouses. Dry-aged beef, sommelier wine selection. ~ARS 40,000 per person. A splurge-worthy farewell-week dinner
Rest Day — Your Favourite BA
Return to the places you loved most.
Return to your favourite café(1.5 hours)
Whether it's Café Tortoni, Las Violetas, or a Palermo specialty spot
Revisit Recoleta or San Telmo(2 hours)
Second visits reveal things you missed the first time
Lunch at La Cabrera in Palermo(1.5 hours)
Famous for side dishes served on the parrilla. Bife de chorizo with 8 small accompaniments. ~ARS 20,000. Arrive early — no reservations
Evening milonga — La Viruta(3 hours)
One of BA's most popular milongas in Palermo. Mixed levels, good energy. Entry ~ARS 3,000. Tango lesson at 11PM, dancing until 4AM
Palermo Hollywood & La Boca Revisit
Morning in the studio-heavy neighbourhood, afternoon revisiting La Boca's art scene beyond Caminito.
Morning run along Costanera Norte(1 hour)
Riverside promenade. Runners, cyclists, mate drinkers. Río de la Plata views
Brunch at Ninina Bakery(1 hour)
Artisan pastries, sourdough toasts. ~ARS 6,000. Their babka is legendary
Fundación Proa in La Boca(1.5 hours)
World-class contemporary art museum. ~ARS 3,000. The rooftop café has excellent views of the Riachuelo river and port. Less visited than Caminito but far more rewarding
Walk the quieter streets of La Boca(1 hour)
Beyond Caminito, the neighbourhood has genuine local life — corner bars, football murals, and a gritty charm
Dinner at Chila or I Latina(2 hours)
Two of BA's top restaurants. Chila for Río de la Plata views and modern Argentine. I Latina for pan-Latin American tasting menu. Both ~ARS 35,000-50,000 per person
Final Full Day — Farewell Asado
Your last day in Buenos Aires. Morning at leisure, afternoon farewell asado.
Morning at leisure(2 hours)
Last walk through your neighbourhood. Pick up alfajores, dulce de leche, and Malbec for home
Last shopping at Plaza Serrano weekend fair(1.5 hours)
Artisan crafts, leather goods, handmade jewelry. Good for unique souvenirs
Closed-door restaurant (puerta cerrada) asado experience(3 hours)
The Argentine Experience or Casa SaltShaker. Private dining with full asado, wine pairing, and local company. ~$60-80 USD. Book days ahead
Farewell walk along Avenida de Mayo at sunset(1 hour)
From Casa Rosada to Congreso. Grand boulevard, Art Nouveau architecture, and the pink light of a Buenos Aires sunset
Final Morning & Departure
Last café con leche and medialunas before the airport.
Café Tortoni(1 hour)
Oldest café in BA (1858). Medialunas and café con leche ~ARS 3,000
Walk Avenida de Mayo to Casa Rosada(45 minutes)
One last look at the Pink House and the grand boulevard
Last shopping at Galerías Pacífico(1 hour)
Beaux-Arts mall with ceiling murals. Leather goods, wines, dulce de leche
Transfer to EZE(1 hour)
Tienda León ~ARS 5,000. Allow 3 hours for international. Buy alfajores and Malbec at duty-free
Travel Tips
Visa & Entry
90-Day Visa-Free Entry
US, Canadian, EU, and UK citizens get 90 days visa-free, extendable once for 90 more days at Dirección Nacional de Migraciones. US citizens previously paid a reciprocity fee but this was eliminated. Bring proof of onward travel and accommodation just in case.
Budget
Bring US Dollars in Cash
Argentina has a complex currency situation with official and parallel ('blue dollar') exchange rates. You'll get significantly more pesos paying with USD cash at 'cuevas' (informal exchange houses) or Western Union than using a credit card at the official rate. Bring crisp, new $100 bills for the best rates.
Free Walking Tours Are Excellent
BA Free Tour and Strawberry Tours run daily free walking tours of San Telmo, Recoleta, La Boca, and Palermo in English. 2-3 hours each. Tip-based (~$10-15 USD suggested). The best way to orient yourself and get local restaurant/bar recommendations. Book on their websites — groups fill up.
Safety
Beware of Distraction Theft
The 'mustard scam' is common: someone squirts a substance on you, then an 'helpful' stranger offers to clean it while pickpocketing you. Also watch for phone snatching on subte (metro) platforms. Keep bags zipped and in front. Use money belts for large amounts of cash.
transport
Get a SUBE Card for Transit
The SUBE card (rechargeable transit card) works on subte (metro), buses, and trains. Buy at kioscos for ~ARS 2,000. Metro rides cost ~ARS 200 (~$0.20 USD). Buses require exact SUBE tap — no cash accepted. The subte runs 5AM-11PM (Sun 8AM-10PM). Line D covers most tourist spots.
Local Customs
Argentines Eat Late
Lunch is 1-3PM, dinner starts at 9PM (restaurants peak at 10-11PM). Restaurants often don't open for dinner before 8PM. Cafés serve merienda (afternoon tea with medialunas pastries) around 5-7PM. Adjust your schedule — eating at 7PM means empty restaurants and sometimes a limited kitchen.
Mate Culture Is Sacred
If invited to share mate (herbal tea from a gourd), don't stir the bombilla (metal straw), don't say 'thank you' until you're done drinking (it signals you want no more), and pass it back to the cebador (person pouring). Refusing mate from a local is considered rude.
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