Buenos Aires Travel FAQ: 14 Questions About Tango, Steak, and the Blue Dollar
Buenos Aires is one of those cities that needs more explaining than most. The currency situation alone could fill an article. So here are the 14 questions I get asked most, answered without the travel-brochure gloss.
Q: What's the deal with the blue dollar?
A: Argentina has a complex parallel economy. The official exchange rate (what your credit card uses) gives you significantly fewer pesos per dollar than the "blue dollar" rate (the informal market rate). The difference can be 20-40%.
Practically, this means: bring crisp, new US $100 bills and exchange them at cuevas (informal exchange houses — your hotel can point you to a reputable one) or use Western Union. You'll get dramatically more pesos than using a credit card. This single tip can save you 25-30% on your entire trip.
Q: Is Buenos Aires safe?
A: The tourist neighborhoods — Palermo, Recoleta, San Telmo, Puerto Madero, Centro — are safe and walkable. The "mustard scam" is the most common tourist crime: someone squirts a substance on you, then a "helpful" stranger offers to clean it while pickpocketing you. Keep bags zipped and in front. Use money belts for large amounts of cash.
Don't walk alone in La Boca beyond the Caminito tourist street. Take Uber or a registered remis at night.
Q: When do Argentines eat dinner?
A: Late. Very late. Restaurants often don't open for dinner before 8PM. Locals arrive at 9-10PM. Peak time is 10-11PM. If you show up at 7PM, the restaurant might literally not be serving food yet.
Adjust your schedule: late breakfast, lunch at 1-2PM, merienda (afternoon tea with medialunas pastries) around 5-7PM at any cafe, dinner after 9PM. You'll adapt faster than you think.
This late-dining culture is similar to what you'll find in Barcelona and Lisbon — Mediterranean and Latin cultures share this rhythm.
Q: How good is the steak really?
A: It's that good. Argentine beef is grass-fed and the parrilla (steakhouse) tradition is serious. A full asado meal — bife de chorizo (sirloin), morcilla (blood sausage), provoleta (grilled provolone), chimichurri, and a bottle of Malbec — costs about ARS 15,000-25,000 (~$15-25 USD at blue rate).
The top picks: Don Julio in Palermo (reservations essential, weeks ahead), El Desnivel in San Telmo (no reservations, expect a wait, cash only), and La Brigada in San Telmo (the knife-isn't-needed steak test — they cut bife de chorizo with a spoon to prove tenderness).
Q: Do I need to experience tango?
A: Yes, but do it right. Skip the overpriced "tango dinner shows" marketed at tourists. Instead, go to a milonga — a social tango dance hall where locals and visitors dance together.
Confiteria Ideal and La Catedral are beginner-friendly. Entry runs ARS 3,000-5,000. Most milongas offer group lessons before the social dancing starts (~ARS 2,000 extra). The dancing peaks around midnight. Dress smartly — milongas have dress codes.
Even if you don't dance, watching tango in a milonga is completely different from watching it in a stage show. It's intimate, improvised, and emotional in a way that performances can't replicate.
Q: What neighborhoods should I stay in?
A: Palermo Soho for boutiques, craft cocktails, and the best restaurant scene. San Telmo for cobblestones, antiques, and tango authenticity. Recoleta for European grandeur and proximity to the cemetery and museums. Puerto Madero if you want modern and waterfront. Avoid staying in La Boca or Constitucion.
Q: Is the San Telmo Sunday Market worth it?
A: Absolutely. Ten blocks along Calle Defensa every Sunday 10AM-5PM. Antiques, vintage tango records, silverware, leather goods. Live tango dancers perform at Plaza Dorrego. Go early to browse seriously, late for atmosphere and street food.
Q: What about Recoleta Cemetery?
A: Not optional. 4,700 ornate marble mausoleums including Eva Peron's tomb. Free entry. Open daily 7AM-5:30PM. Free English guided tours Tue-Fri at 11AM. Combine with the adjacent weekend artisan fair (Sat-Sun).
Q: How do I get around?
A: Get a SUBE card at any kiosco (ARS 2,000). Works on subte (metro), buses, and trains. Metro rides cost about ARS 200 ($0.20 USD). Line D covers most tourist spots. Uber works everywhere and is very cheap. Buses require SUBE — no cash.
The subte runs 5AM-11PM (Sun 8AM-10PM).
Q: What's the mate thing about?
A: Mate (herbal tea from a gourd, shared communally) is sacred. If invited to share:
Don't stir the bombilla (metal straw)
Don't say "gracias" until you're done (it signals you want no more)
Pass it back to the cebador (person pouring)
Refusing mate from a local is considered rude
You'll see people carrying thermoses and mate gourds everywhere — in parks, offices, buses. It's not just a drink, it's a social ritual.
Q: What should I know about Argentine wine?
A: Malbec is the flagship grape, and it's excellent. But Argentina also does outstanding Torrontes (aromatic white), Bonarda (lighter red), and increasingly good Cabernet Franc. Wine is extraordinarily cheap: a quality bottle at a restaurant costs ARS 5,000-15,000 (~$5-15 USD). At a wine shop, even less.
For a tasting experience without leaving the city, try Pain et Vin in Palermo or Aldo's Vinoteca in San Telmo.
If you love wine tourism, Cape Town has a world-class wine region just 30 minutes from the city center.
Q: How many days do I need?
A: Minimum 4 days: San Telmo + La Boca (day 1), Centro + Recoleta (day 2), Palermo (day 3), milonga night + free day (day 4). A week lets you add a Tigre Delta day trip, a parrilla cooking class, and time to just sit in cafes and people-watch, which is honestly the best activity in BA.
Q: What are the free walking tours like?
A: Excellent. BA Free Tour and Strawberry Tours run daily free walks in English through San Telmo, Recoleta, La Boca, and Palermo. 2-3 hours each. Tip-based (~$10-15 USD suggested). The best way to orient yourself and get restaurant recommendations. Book on their websites — groups fill up.
Q: Any cultural quirks I should know?
A: A few:
Portenos (Buenos Aires residents) are night owls. Clubs don't fill up until 2-3AM.
The afternoon kiss greeting is standard — right cheek, one kiss, for everyone.
Argentine Spanish sounds different — "ll" and "y" are pronounced "sh" (so "calle" sounds like "ca-sheh"). Don't worry if you studied Mexican Spanish and can't understand anyone.
Football (Boca Juniors vs. River Plate) is more than a sport. It's an identity. Pick a side carefully.
