Istanbul

Airport transfer to Sultanahmet(90 minutes)

Havaist airport bus to Sultanahmet (TRY 130). Buy an Istanbulkart at the airport metro station (TRY 70 card fee). Taxi costs TRY 400-600. BiTaksi app is the safest taxi option — always insist on the meter

Check in and freshen up(1 hour)

Sultanahmet puts you walking distance from Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and the Grand Bazaar. Boutique hotels from $40-80/night in this area

Evening walk around Sultanahmet Square(1 hour)

See Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque illuminated at night. The Hippodrome (ancient chariot racing arena) with its Egyptian obelisk is between the two. Free to walk around

Dinner at Sultanahmet Koftecisi(45 minutes)

Operating since 1920 on Divan Yolu. The only dish is kofta (grilled meatballs) with white beans and bread. TRY 100-150 per person. Simple, perfect. Ignore the imitators — look for the original at #12

Hagia Sophia(1.5 hours)

1,500-year-old architectural marvel. Free entry (now a mosque). Open daily except during prayer times. Arrive before 9AM. The 55m dome interior is overwhelming. Women should carry a scarf for hair covering

Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed)(45 minutes)

Six minarets, 20,000+ hand-painted blue Iznik tiles. Free entry outside prayer times. Modest dress required — scarves provided. Shoes off. Currently under partial restoration but still visitable

Basilica Cistern(45 minutes)

Underground Byzantine cistern from 532 AD with 336 marble columns. Entry TRY 450. The two Medusa head column bases are the highlight. Recently renovated. Go at opening or after 5PM to avoid crowds

Lunch at Tarihi Sultanahmet Balikci(1 hour)

Two blocks from Hagia Sophia — much better value than the restaurants directly facing it. Fresh grilled fish, TRY 200-400 per person

Turkish tea at Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi(45 minutes)

Hidden courtyard tea garden behind a nargile (hookah) shop near the Grand Bazaar. Tea TRY 30, nargile TRY 100. A timeless Istanbul atmosphere tucked away from the crowds

Topkapi Palace(2.5 hours)

Entry TRY 450, Harem section extra TRY 200. Open Wed-Mon, closed Tuesdays. The treasury holds the 86-carat Spoonmaker's Diamond. The Harem rooms are ornate beyond belief. Buy tickets online to skip the queue. The terraces have stunning Bosphorus views

Lunch at Hamdi Restaurant(1 hour)

Rooftop restaurant near the Egyptian Bazaar with Golden Horn views. Southeastern Turkish cuisine — the kebab platter and lahmacun are excellent. TRY 300-500 per person. Book a terrace table

Grand Bazaar(2.5 hours)

4,000+ shops across 61 streets. Enter at Gate 1 (Beyazit). Bargain at 40-50% of asking price. Best for Iznik ceramics, Turkish lamps, leather goods, and Turkish delight. Open Mon-Sat 8:30AM-7PM, closed Sundays

Turkish delight at Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir(20 minutes)

Near the Grand Bazaar on Hamidiye Caddesi. The original Turkish delight shop since 1777. Rose, pistachio, and pomegranate lokum. Small boxes from TRY 100

Bosphorus ferry cruise (Sehir Hatlari)(6 hours)

Full-length public ferry from Eminonu at 10:35AM. TRY 100 round trip. Passes Dolmabahce Palace, Rumeli Fortress, and waterfront yalis (mansions). Turns around at Anadolu Kavagi — eat fish at one of the hilltop restaurants before the return. Sit on the right side heading north

Ferry from Eminonu to Kadikoy(20 minutes)

TRY 15 with Istanbulkart. The short hop across to the Asian side is a mini Bosphorus cruise itself

Kadikoy Market food crawl(2 hours)

A food lover's paradise on the Asian shore. Try balik ekmek (fish sandwich, TRY 60-80), fresh stuffed mussels (midye dolma, TRY 5 each), Turkish breakfast spread at a neighbourhood café (TRY 200-300), and baklavas from Karakoy Gulluoglu's Kadikoy branch. The market streets are less touristy than Sultanahmet

Evening walk on Bahariye Street(1 hour)

Kadikoy's vibrant main street with local bars, bookshops, and street performers. This is where young Istanbul hangs out. Grab a rakı at any meyhane (tavern)

Late Turkish breakfast at Van Kahvalti Evi(1.5 hours)

On Kılıçali Paşa Mahallesi in Cihangir. A massive Eastern Turkish breakfast spread with dozens of small dishes — honey, kaymak cream, cheese, eggs, sucuk sausage. TRY 250-400 per person. Weekend queues from 10AM

Galata Tower(45 minutes)

Medieval stone tower with 360-degree panoramic views. Entry TRY 200. The view from the top takes in the Golden Horn, Sultanahmet skyline, and Bosphorus. The surrounding neighbourhood of Galata has excellent independent shops

Walk down Istiklal Avenue(1.5 hours)

Istanbul's famous pedestrian avenue. 1.4 km from Taksim Square to Tunel. The historic red tram rumbles through. Duck into the Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage) for drinks in the ornate 19th-century arcade. Fish Market alley behind it has fresh seafood

Dinner at Karakoy Lokantasi(1.5 hours)

Modern Turkish lokanta (ready-food restaurant) in the trendy Karakoy district. The lamb shank and artichoke stew are outstanding. TRY 200-400 per person. Reservations recommended for dinner

Suleymaniye Mosque(1 hour)

Built by Sinan in 1557 for Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. Free entry. Less crowded than the Blue Mosque but architecturally superior. The courtyard views over the Golden Horn are stunning. The tomb garden behind has Suleiman's and Roxelana's tombs

Lunch at Ali Baba Kanaat Lokantasi(45 minutes)

Behind the Suleymaniye Mosque — a no-frills lokanta where university students and locals eat. Point at what looks good in the bain-marie. TRY 80-150 for a full meal

Hammam at Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami(1.5 hours)

A beautifully restored 16th-century bathhouse by architect Sinan. The traditional scrub and foam massage costs TRY 1,200 (~$37). One of the most authentic hammam experiences in Istanbul. Separate sessions for men and women. Book online

Evening walk along Galata Bridge(45 minutes)

The bridge connecting old and new Istanbul. Fishermen line the upper level, seafood restaurants the lower. A glass of rakı with a plate of fried fish below the bridge as the sun sets is peak Istanbul

Dinner at Mikla(2 hours)

Rooftop restaurant at the Marmara Pera hotel with panoramic views. Modern Turkish-Scandinavian cuisine by chef Mehmet Gurs. TRY 1,500-2,500 tasting menu. A splurge-worthy farewell dinner

Morning simit and tea(30 minutes)

Grab a simit (sesame bread ring, TRY 15-20) from any street cart and a glass of çay. The simplest and most Istanbul of breakfasts

Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Bazaar)(1 hour)

Smaller and more manageable than the Grand Bazaar. Best for spices, Turkish delight, dried fruits, and nuts. Near the Eminonu ferry terminal. Open Mon-Sat 8AM-7PM

Airport transfer(90 minutes)

Havaist bus from Sultanahmet or Taksim (TRY 130), or taxi (TRY 400-600). Istanbul Airport is 50 km from the centre. Allow 3+ hours before international flights including the drive

Airport transfer to Sultanahmet(90 minutes)

Havaist bus TRY 130, taxi TRY 400-600. Buy Istanbulkart at the airport (TRY 70). Use BiTaksi app for taxis

Sultanahmet Square evening walk(1 hour)

Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque illuminated. The Hippodrome with its Egyptian obelisk. Free

Dinner at Sultanahmet Koftecisi(45 minutes)

Since 1920. Kofta with white beans. TRY 100-150. The original at #12 Divan Yolu

Hagia Sophia(1.5 hours)

Free (mosque). Open daily except prayers. Before 9AM to beat groups. 55m dome. Women cover hair

Blue Mosque(45 minutes)

Six minarets, 20,000+ blue Iznik tiles. Free outside prayer times. Scarves provided

Basilica Cistern(45 minutes)

TRY 450. 336 columns, Medusa heads. Go at opening or after 5PM

Lunch at Tarihi Sultanahmet Balikci(1 hour)

Two blocks from Hagia Sophia. Grilled fish, TRY 200-400

Tea at Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi(45 minutes)

Hidden courtyard tea garden. Tea TRY 30, nargile TRY 100

Topkapi Palace(2.5 hours)

TRY 450, Harem TRY 200 extra. Closed Tuesdays. 86-carat Spoonmaker's Diamond. Buy tickets online

Lunch at Hamdi Restaurant(1 hour)

Rooftop Golden Horn views. Kebab platter and lahmacun. TRY 300-500

Grand Bazaar(2.5 hours)

4,000+ shops, 61 streets. Gate 1 (Beyazit). Bargain 40-50% off. Closed Sundays

Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir(20 minutes)

Original Turkish delight since 1777. Rose, pistachio lokum. From TRY 100

Bosphorus ferry (Sehir Hatlari)(6 hours)

From Eminonu at 10:35AM. TRY 100 round trip. Palaces, fortresses, yalis. Fish lunch at Anadolu Kavagi

Ferry to Kadikoy(20 minutes)

TRY 15 Istanbulkart. Quick hop to Asia

Kadikoy food crawl(2 hours)

Balik ekmek (TRY 60-80), midye dolma (TRY 5 each), Turkish breakfast (TRY 200-300). Less touristy than Sultanahmet

Bahariye Street evening(1 hour)

Local bars, bookshops, street performers. Young Istanbul's hangout

Turkish breakfast at Van Kahvalti Evi(1.5 hours)

Eastern Turkish spread. Dozens of dishes — honey, kaymak, cheese, eggs, sucuk. TRY 250-400

Galata Tower(45 minutes)

TRY 200. 360-degree views of Golden Horn, Sultanahmet, Bosphorus

Walk Istiklal Avenue(1.5 hours)

1.4 km pedestrian avenue. Historic red tram. Cicek Pasaji arcade for drinks. Fish Market alley

Dinner at Karakoy Lokantasi(1.5 hours)

Modern Turkish lokanta. Lamb shank, artichoke stew. TRY 200-400. Reserve for dinner

Suleymaniye Mosque(1 hour)

Built by Sinan 1557. Free. Less crowded, architecturally superior to Blue Mosque. Courtyard Golden Horn views

Lunch at Ali Baba Kanaat Lokantasi(45 minutes)

Behind Suleymaniye. Students and locals. Point at the bain-marie. TRY 80-150

Hammam at Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami(1.5 hours)

16th-century Sinan bathhouse. Scrub and foam massage TRY 1,200. Book online. Separate men/women sessions

Galata Bridge sunset fish dinner(1 hour)

Lower-level restaurants. Fried fish and rakı with Golden Horn views as the sun sets

Ferry to Buyukada (Big Island)(1.5 hours)

From Kabatas, TRY 30 Istanbulkart. The scenic ferry ride past the Asian shoreline is relaxing. Ferries depart roughly every hour from 7AM

Bicycle tour of Buyukada(2.5 hours)

Rent a bicycle near the ferry dock (TRY 50-80/hour). Ride the 9 km loop around the island past Ottoman-era wooden mansions, pine forests, and sea views. The hilltop monastery of St. George has panoramic views

Seafood lunch at Yucetepe Kir Gazinosu(1 hour)

Hilltop restaurant with sea views. Grilled sea bass and mezze. TRY 250-400. The setting is worth the uphill ride

Beach time on Buyukada(1.5 hours)

Swim at one of the island's small beaches — Yörükali Plajı on the south side is less crowded. Beach entry TRY 50-100

Dolmabahce Palace(2 hours)

Europe's most opulent Ottoman palace. TRY 450. Guided tours only (included). The 36m-high ballroom ceiling and 4.5-ton Bohemian crystal chandelier are jaw-dropping. Closed Mon and Thu. Book online. Where Ataturk died in 1938 — the clocks are frozen at 9:05AM

Besiktas Fish Market(1 hour)

Authentic local fish market with tiny restaurants inside. Point at your fish and they grill it. TRY 150-300 for a full fish meal. Much more authentic than touristy fish restaurants. 5-minute walk from Dolmabahce

Ortakoy waterfront(1.5 hours)

Charming neighbourhood under the Bosphorus Bridge. The Ortakoy Mosque (photogenic waterfront mosque) is free. Famous for kumpir — giant baked potatoes loaded with toppings (TRY 80-120). Weekend craft market on the square

Dinner at Banyan(1.5 hours)

Asian-fusion restaurant in Ortakoy with Bosphorus Bridge views. Sushi, Thai, and dim sum. TRY 300-500. The terrace at night is magical

Istanbul Archaeology Museums(2.5 hours)

Three museums in one complex near Topkapi. TRY 200. The Alexander Sarcophagus alone is worth the visit. The Museum of the Ancient Orient has the Treaty of Kadesh — the world's oldest known peace treaty. Criminally undervisited

Gulhane Park(1 hour)

The former outer gardens of Topkapi Palace. Free. Walk down to the waterfront for views across the Bosphorus to Asia. Beautiful tulip displays in April

Lunch at Pandeli(1 hour)

Above the Egyptian Bazaar entrance. Operating since 1901. Blue-tiled interior. The lamb stew and aubergine dishes are classic Ottoman cuisine. TRY 250-400

Rustem Pasa Mosque(30 minutes)

Tiny Sinan mosque hidden above the shops near the Egyptian Bazaar. Free. The most extraordinary Iznik tile interior in Istanbul — floor to ceiling in blue and red floral tiles. Most tourists walk right past it

Evening at Balat neighbourhood(2 hours)

Instagram-famous colourful houses on the Golden Horn. But beyond the photo spots, Balat has genuine local life — antique shops, backgammon-playing cafes, and Fener Greek Patriarchate (still the seat of Eastern Orthodox Christianity). Walk from Eminonu along the Golden Horn (30 minutes)

Turkish cooking class(3.5 hours)

Join a class at Cooking Alaturka or Istanbul Cooking School. From TRY 1,500 (~$45). Learn to make manti (Turkish dumplings), imam bayildi (stuffed aubergine), and baklava. Includes market shopping trip and lunch

Fatih food walk(2 hours)

The Fatih district around the Fatih Mosque is where conservative Istanbul eats — and eats well. Ozdemir Kokorec for grilled lamb intestine sandwich (TRY 80, surprisingly delicious). Sur Ocakbasi for wood-fire kebabs (TRY 150-250). Much cheaper than tourist areas

Fatih Mosque(30 minutes)

Built on the site of the Church of the Holy Apostles where Byzantine emperors were buried. Free. The largest mosque in Istanbul after Suleymaniye. Less visited by tourists

Evening at a Beyoglu rooftop bar(1.5 hours)

360 Istanbul or Leb-i Derya for cocktails with panoramic views. Cocktails TRY 200-350. The sunset view over the Golden Horn and mosques is unforgettable

Bus to Edirne or Bursa(2.5 hours)

Metro Turizm or Kamil Koc buses from Esenler Otogar. TRY 200-350 one-way. Comfortable seats, frequent departures. Edirne for architecture lovers; Bursa for food lovers

Selimiye Mosque (Edirne) or Grand Mosque (Bursa)(1.5 hours)

Selimiye is Sinan's masterpiece — he considered it his finest work, surpassing Suleymaniye. Free. Bursa's Grand Mosque has 20 domes and stunning calligraphy. Free

Local specialty lunch(1 hour)

Edirne: tava cigeri (fried liver) at Cigerci Hasan — the local obsession, TRY 100. Bursa: Iskender kebab at Kebapci Iskender — the original (since 1867), TRY 200-350. Both are legendary regional dishes

Old town exploration(1.5 hours)

Edirne: walk the old town past caravanserais and the Ali Pasa Bazaar. Bursa: explore the Koza Han (Silk Bazaar, still selling silk today) and the Green Mosque (Iznik tiles)

Ferry to Uskudar(15 minutes)

From Eminonu, TRY 15 Istanbulkart. Uskudar is more traditional than Kadikoy

Mihrimah Sultan Mosque (Uskudar)(30 minutes)

Sinan mosque at the waterfront. Free. Beautiful light-filled interior. The waterfront square around it is quintessential Istanbul

Camlica Hill(1.5 hours)

Istanbul's highest point (288m) with a massive new mosque and panoramic views over both continents. Free. The tea garden at the top is a favourite local weekend spot. Taxi from Uskudar TRY 60-80

Lunch at Ciya Sofrasi (Kadikoy)(1 hour)

Chef Musa Dagdeviren's restaurant — considered the most important food destination in Turkey. Dishes from every region. Point at the daily menu. TRY 150-300. Featured in Chef's Table on Netflix

Moda seaside walk(1.5 hours)

The neighbourhood south of Kadikoy with a beautiful 3 km waterfront promenade. Ice cream from Ali Usta. Watch the sunset over the European skyline from Asia

Morning at leisure(3 hours)

Revisit the Grand Bazaar for final shopping, return to a favourite café, or visit the Chora Church (Kariye Museum) in Edirnekapi — extraordinary Byzantine mosaics and frescoes, TRY 450

Museum Pass Istanbul shopping(1.5 hours)

If you haven't yet, the Egyptian Bazaar is better for gifts than the Grand Bazaar — less aggressive, more food-focused. Turkish coffee sets, baklava boxes, pomegranate tea

Farewell dinner at Mikla or Neolokal(2.5 hours)

Mikla at Marmara Pera: rooftop panoramic views, modern Turkish-Scandinavian. TRY 1,500-2,500 tasting menu. Or Neolokal at SALT Galata: creative Anatolian cuisine in a converted bank. TRY 800-1,200 per person. Both are unforgettable

Final simit and çay(30 minutes)

Sesame bread ring (TRY 15-20) from a street cart and a tulip glass of Turkish tea. The simplest Istanbul ritual

Egyptian Bazaar last purchases(1 hour)

Spices, Turkish delight, dried fruits. More relaxed than the Grand Bazaar

Airport transfer(90 minutes)

Havaist bus TRY 130 or taxi TRY 400-600. Istanbul Airport is 50 km out. Allow 3+ hours before international flights

Airport transfer to Sultanahmet(90 minutes)

Havaist bus TRY 130, taxi TRY 400-600. Buy Istanbulkart at airport

Sultanahmet Square evening walk(1 hour)

Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque illuminated. Hippodrome obelisk. Free

Dinner at Sultanahmet Koftecisi(45 minutes)

Since 1920. Kofta with white beans. TRY 100-150

Hagia Sophia(1.5 hours)

Free (mosque). Before 9AM to beat groups. Women cover hair

Blue Mosque(45 minutes)

20,000+ blue Iznik tiles. Free outside prayer times

Basilica Cistern(45 minutes)

TRY 450. 336 columns, Medusa heads

Lunch at Tarihi Sultanahmet Balikci(1 hour)

Grilled fish TRY 200-400

Tea at Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi(45 minutes)

Hidden courtyard. Tea TRY 30, nargile TRY 100

Topkapi Palace(2.5 hours)

TRY 450, Harem TRY 200. Closed Tuesdays. 86-carat diamond

Lunch at Hamdi Restaurant(1 hour)

Rooftop Golden Horn views. TRY 300-500

Grand Bazaar(2.5 hours)

4,000+ shops. Bargain 40-50% off. Closed Sundays

Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir(20 minutes)

Turkish delight since 1777. From TRY 100

Bosphorus ferry (Sehir Hatlari)(6 hours)

From Eminonu at 10:35AM. TRY 100 round trip. Fish lunch at Anadolu Kavagi

Ferry to Kadikoy(20 minutes)

TRY 15 Istanbulkart

Kadikoy food crawl(2 hours)

Balik ekmek TRY 60-80, midye dolma TRY 5 each

Bahariye Street evening(1 hour)

Local bars, bookshops, street performers

Turkish breakfast at Van Kahvalti Evi(1.5 hours)

Eastern Turkish spread. TRY 250-400

Galata Tower(45 minutes)

TRY 200. 360-degree views

Walk Istiklal Avenue(1.5 hours)

1.4 km pedestrian avenue. Red tram. Cicek Pasaji

Dinner at Karakoy Lokantasi(1.5 hours)

Modern Turkish lokanta. TRY 200-400

Suleymaniye Mosque(1 hour)

Built by Sinan 1557. Free. Superior to Blue Mosque

Lunch at Ali Baba Kanaat Lokantasi(45 minutes)

Students and locals. TRY 80-150

Hammam at Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami(1.5 hours)

16th-century Sinan bathhouse. TRY 1,200

Galata Bridge sunset fish dinner(1 hour)

Lower-level restaurants. Fried fish and rakı

Ferry to Buyukada(1.5 hours)

TRY 30 Istanbulkart

Bicycle tour of Buyukada(2.5 hours)

Rent bike TRY 50-80/hour. 9 km island loop

Seafood lunch at Yucetepe(1 hour)

Hilltop restaurant. TRY 250-400

Beach time(1.5 hours)

Yörükali Plajı. Beach entry TRY 50-100

Dolmabahce Palace(2 hours)

TRY 450. 4.5-ton crystal chandelier. Closed Mon and Thu

Besiktas Fish Market(1 hour)

Point at fish, they grill it. TRY 150-300

Ortakoy waterfront(1.5 hours)

Mosque, kumpir TRY 80-120, weekend craft market

Dinner at Banyan(1.5 hours)

Asian-fusion with Bosphorus Bridge views. TRY 300-500

Istanbul Archaeology Museums(2.5 hours)

TRY 200. Alexander Sarcophagus. Treaty of Kadesh

Gulhane Park(1 hour)

Free. Former Topkapi gardens

Lunch at Pandeli(1 hour)

Since 1901. Ottoman cuisine. TRY 250-400

Rustem Pasa Mosque(30 minutes)

Hidden Sinan mosque. Best Iznik tiles in Istanbul. Free

Evening at Balat(2 hours)

Colourful houses, antique shops, Fener Greek Patriarchate

Turkish cooking class(3.5 hours)

From TRY 1,500. Manti, imam bayildi, baklava

Fatih food walk(2 hours)

Kokorec TRY 80, wood-fire kebabs TRY 150-250

Fatih Mosque(30 minutes)

Free. Largest mosque after Suleymaniye

Evening rooftop bar(1.5 hours)

360 Istanbul or Leb-i Derya. Cocktails TRY 200-350

Bus to Edirne or Bursa(2.5 hours)

TRY 200-350 one-way

Selimiye Mosque (Edirne) or Grand Mosque (Bursa)(1.5 hours)

Sinan's masterpiece or Bursa's 20-dome mosque. Both free

Local specialty lunch(1 hour)

Edirne: fried liver TRY 100. Bursa: Iskender kebab TRY 200-350

Ferry to Uskudar(15 minutes)

TRY 15 Istanbulkart

Mihrimah Sultan Mosque(30 minutes)

Sinan mosque at waterfront. Free

Camlica Hill(1.5 hours)

Istanbul's highest point (288m). Free. Massive new mosque

Lunch at Ciya Sofrasi(1 hour)

Turkey's most important food destination. TRY 150-300

Moda seaside walk(1.5 hours)

3 km waterfront promenade. Sunset over European skyline from Asia

Flight Istanbul to Izmir(1 hour)

Turkish Airlines or Pegasus. From TRY 500-1,000 one-way. Frequent flights. Izmir is Turkey's third-largest city and gateway to the Aegean

Transfer to Selçuk(1 hour)

Izban train from Izmir airport to Selçuk ~TRY 20. Or rental car. Selçuk is the small town adjacent to Ephesus ruins

Check-in at Selçuk hotel(1 hour)

Ayasoluk Hotel or Nea Ephesus for atmosphere. The town is charming with a castle and the remains of the Basilica of St. John

Late afternoon at Ephesus(2.5 hours)

Entry TRY 400. The Great Theatre (25,000 seats), Library of Celsus, and Terrace Houses (extra TRY 200, worth every lira for the Roman frescoes and mosaics). Go late afternoon when tour buses have left. The marble streets glow golden at sunset

Dinner at Selçuk Köftecisi(1 hour)

Simple grilled köfte and salad. TRY 80-150. The restaurants around the castle are touristy but this spot near the train station is local

Visit Şirince village(2 hours)

A charming hilltop Greek village 8 km from Selçuk. Stone houses, fruit wine tastings (peach, pomegranate, blackberry — TRY 30-50 per tasting), and handmade olive oil soap. The views over the valley are beautiful. Much less touristy than you'd expect

House of the Virgin Mary(45 minutes)

TRY 100. A small chapel 7 km from Ephesus believed to be where Mary spent her final years. Pilgrimage site for Christians and Muslims. A wishing wall and sacred spring. Peaceful and atmospheric regardless of faith

Lunch at a Selçuk restaurant(1 hour)

Fresh Aegean food — grilled fish, mezes, and local olive oil. TRY 100-200. The Aegean Turkish cuisine is lighter and more Mediterranean than Istanbul's

Flight back to Istanbul(1.5 hours)

Afternoon flight from Izmir. Return to your Istanbul hotel by evening

Return to a favourite neighbourhood(3 hours)

Balat for photography, Kadikoy for food, or the Grand Bazaar for final shopping

Dinner at Asitane(1.5 hours)

Ottoman palace cuisine recreated from historical recipes. Near the Chora Church. TRY 300-500. Dishes served to sultans 500 years ago. A unique Istanbul experience

Chora Church (Kariye Museum)(1.5 hours)

TRY 450. The Byzantine mosaics and frescoes here are among the finest surviving examples of 14th-century Christian art. The detail and colour preservation are staggering. In the Edirnekapi neighbourhood, far from the tourist centre

Walk along the City Walls(1.5 hours)

The Theodosian Walls stretch 6 km from the Golden Horn to the Sea of Marmara. Walk a section near Chora. The walls are 5th century and remarkably intact. Very few tourists come here

Lunch at a local lokal in Fatih or Fener(1 hour)

The neighbourhoods around the walls are working-class and authentic. Point-and-choose from a bain-marie. TRY 60-100. Real Istanbul

Walk through Fener and Balat revisit(2 hours)

Take your time on this second visit. Explore the side streets beyond the Instagram spots. Visit the Iron Church (Sveti Stefan) — a Bulgarian church made entirely of prefabricated iron. Free. Extraordinary

Evening at a meyhane in Beyoglu(2 hours)

A traditional Turkish tavern. Fried mussels, white cheese, and rakı. Asmali Cavit on Asmalimescit Street is authentic. TRY 200-400 with rakı

Drive or taxi to Belgrad Forest(45 minutes)

20 km north of the city. Istanbul's largest forest — 5,500 hectares of oak and beech. Entry free. The Atatürk Arboretum (TRY 25) has beautiful walks

Walk in Belgrad Forest(2 hours)

Well-marked trails through dense forest. The Bent Aqueduct (Eğri Kemer) from the 16th century is stunning. Peaceful after the city's intensity

Drive to a Black Sea fishing village(45 minutes)

Kilyos or Garipçe on the Bosphorus mouth. The Black Sea is dramatically different from the Mediterranean — rougher water, darker sand, wilder feeling

Lunch at a Black Sea fish restaurant(1.5 hours)

Fresh anchovy (hamsi) and Black Sea cornbread. Garipçe has several family restaurants with fortress and Bosphorus views. TRY 150-300

Morning at leisure(3 hours)

Return to the Grand Bazaar for final purchases, revisit Ciya Sofrasi, or take a final Bosphorus ferry ride

Egyptian Bazaar shopping(1.5 hours)

Better for gifts than the Grand Bazaar. Turkish coffee sets, baklava boxes, pomegranate tea

Afternoon tea at Pierre Loti café(1 hour)

Cable car up to this hilltop café overlooking the Golden Horn. TRY 30 for tea. Named after the French novelist. The view over the Ottoman cemetery and the Golden Horn is extraordinary. One of Istanbul's most atmospheric spots

Farewell dinner at Mikla(2.5 hours)

Rooftop at Marmara Pera. Modern Turkish-Scandinavian. TRY 1,500-2,500 tasting menu. The panoramic sunset view of the Golden Horn, mosques, and minarets is unforgettable

Final simit and çay from a street cart(30 minutes)

The simplest Istanbul ritual. TRY 15-20

Morning walk through your neighbourhood(2 hours)

Whether it's Sultanahmet, Beyoglu, or Kadikoy — walk the streets one more time

Lunch at Karaköy Güllüoğlu(45 minutes)

Istanbul's most famous baklava. A box to take home and a plate to eat now. Pistachio baklava TRY 15-20 per piece. The butter and pistachio quality is unmatched

Evening walk along the Bosphorus(1.5 hours)

From Karakoy to Besiktas along the waterfront. Fishermen, tea sellers, cats. The Bosphorus at dusk is Istanbul at its most magical

Sunrise at Galata Bridge(1 hour)

Fishermen line the bridge from dawn. The minarets silhouetted against the rising sun with the Golden Horn below. Free and unforgettable

Last walk — Sultanahmet to Eminonu(1.5 hours)

Past Hagia Sophia, through Gulhane Park, down to the waterfront. The route covers 2,000 years of history in 30 minutes

Farewell dinner at Neolokal(2 hours)

Creative Anatolian cuisine in SALT Galata. TRY 800-1,200. The converted bank building with Golden Horn views is a fitting farewell to this extraordinary city

Final simit and çay(30 minutes)

Sesame bread ring TRY 15-20 and tulip glass of Turkish tea

Egyptian Bazaar last purchases(1 hour)

Spices, Turkish delight, dried fruits

Airport transfer(90 minutes)

Havaist bus TRY 130 or taxi TRY 400-600. Allow 3+ hours