Jerash

Photo: Hisham Zayadneh / Unsplash
Key Facts
Best Time to Visit
March to May and September to November (mild 18-28°C, dry). Summers exceed 35°C with no shade in the ruins
Language
Arabic; English widely understood at tourist sites
Currency
Jordanian Dinar (JOD)
Time Zone
AST (UTC+3)
Airport
Queen Alia International Airport (AMM), 55km south in Amman
Population
250,000 (city proper)
Climate
Semi-arid Mediterranean, hot dry summers (35°C+), mild wet winters (8-15°C)
Safety Rating
Generally Safe (Level 1)
Jordan Pass
JOD 70-80 (~$99-113) covers Jerash entry + 40 sites + visa fee — essential purchase before arrival
Top Highlights

Oval Plaza (Forum)
A unique oval-shaped Roman forum ringed by 56 Ionic columns, unlike any other in the Roman world. Free with site entry (JOD 10 / ~$14, or included in Jordan Pass). Open 8AM-6PM summer, 8AM-4PM winter. Allow 30 minutes here, but budget 3-4 hours for the full site. Best photographed in golden hour light.

Hadrian's Arch
A 13-meter triumphal arch built in 129 AD to honor Emperor Hadrian's visit. Stands 400 meters south of the main gate — start your visit here for the dramatic approach. Recently restored with original inscriptions still visible. Free to view from outside even without a ticket.

Hippodrome & Chariot Reenactments
A 245-meter Roman chariot racing arena that seated 15,000 spectators. The RACE show (Roman Army and Chariot Experience) runs daily at 11AM, 1PM, and 3PM — 45 minutes of chariot races, gladiator fights, and legionary drills. Separate ticket: JOD 12 (~$17). One of the most unique experiences in Jordan.

Temple of Artemis
Massive Corinthian temple dedicated to Jerash's patron goddess, built 150 AD. The 12 remaining columns are 12 meters tall — insert a spoon in the column base gaps to see them sway in the wind (earthquake-resistant Roman engineering). 15-minute walk uphill from the Oval Plaza. Allow 30 minutes.

South Theater
A beautifully preserved 3,000-seat amphitheater with stunning acoustics — stand in the center of the orchestra pit and clap to hear the echo. Built 90-92 AD, still used for the annual Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts (July). Climb to the top rows for panoramic views of the entire site.

Cardo Maximus (Colonnaded Street)
An 800-meter colonnaded main street with original chariot ruts carved into the limestone paving stones. Walk the full length to appreciate the scale — 500 columns once lined this road. Look for the intersection with the Decumanus where an elaborate tetrapylon (four-pillared gateway) still stands.

Nymphaeum
An ornate 2nd-century public fountain dedicated to the water nymphs, with two-story facade remnants and carved lion-head spouts. Originally clad in marble with a painted half-dome ceiling. Located along the Cardo Maximus, easy to miss if you rush — pause here for 15 minutes to appreciate the detailing.
Planned Itinerary
7-Day Jerash Itinerary
Arrival in Amman & Old City Orientation
Fly into Queen Alia International Airport (AMM). Transfer to downtown Amman (30 minutes by taxi, JOD 20-25). Base yourself in the Jabal Amman or Rainbow Street area for walkability and atmosphere.
Airport transfer to Amman(30 minutes)
Pre-book a hotel transfer or use Careem app (JOD 20-25). Avoid the fixed-price taxi desk which overcharges. The highway into the city is modern and fast
Check-in and freshen up at hotel(1 hour)
Stay in the Jabal Amman area — The House Boutique Suites or Sydney Hotel have great locations near Rainbow Street. Budget options from JOD 30/night
Walk Rainbow Street(1.5 hours)
Amman's hippest strip — cafes, galleries, and street art. Stop at Hashem Restaurant (open 24 hours, been serving the best falafel and hummus in Jordan since 1952) for a cheap dinner. A full meal with juice costs JOD 3-4
Sunset from Amman Citadel (Jabal al-Qala'a)(1 hour)
JOD 3 entry (included in Jordan Pass). The Temple of Hercules columns frame the city. The panoramic view over downtown Amman's white buildings stacked on hills is the perfect introduction to Jordan
Jerash — Full Day in the Roman City
Day trip to Jerash, 48km north of Amman. Hire a taxi (JOD 25-30 round trip with 3-hour wait) or take a minibus from Tabarbour station (JOD 1 each way). Arrive early to beat heat and tour bus crowds.
Drive to Jerash (depart 7:30AM)(45 minutes)
Start early — the site opens at 8AM and you want to be there when the gates open, before the 10AM tour bus rush. Bring 1.5 liters of water per person and sunscreen
Hadrian's Arch and Hippodrome RACE show(1.5 hours)
Start at the 13-meter triumphal arch 400m south of the main gate. Time for the 11AM RACE show (Roman Army and Chariot Experience, JOD 12) — chariot races, gladiator fights, and legionary drills in the original hippodrome. Only place in the world you can see this
Oval Plaza, Cardo Maximus, and South Theater(2 hours)
Walk the 800m colonnaded Cardo Maximus with original chariot ruts in the stone. At the Oval Plaza, 56 Ionic columns still stand. Climb to the top row of the 3,000-seat South Theater and clap at the center of the orchestra pit — the acoustics are extraordinary
Temple of Artemis and Nymphaeum(1 hour)
15-minute uphill walk from the Oval Plaza. Insert a spoon in the column base gaps to see the 12-meter columns sway — earthquake-resistant Roman engineering. The ornate Nymphaeum fountain along the Cardo is easy to miss if you rush
Lunch at Lebanese House in Jerash town(1 hour)
Exit the site and eat at the entrance town — much better than the overpriced cafeteria inside. Excellent mansaf and mezze for JOD 5-8 per person
Ajloun Castle & Olive Forest Reserve
Head 20km west of Jerash to Ajloun Castle, a 12th-century Ayyubid fortress. The surrounding hills are covered in ancient olive and pine forests — a surprisingly green side of Jordan.
Drive to Ajloun Castle(1 hour)
From Amman, take the highway north through rolling green hills. Ajloun is 73km northwest of Amman, or just 20km from Jerash
Ajloun Castle (Qal'at ar-Rabad)(1.5 hours)
JOD 3 entry (included in Jordan Pass). Built 1184 AD by Saladin's generals to control iron mines and guard against Crusaders. Seven towers, a moat, and sweeping views across the Jordan Valley
Ajloun Forest Reserve hike(2 hours)
Managed by RSCN. The Roe Deer Trail (2km, easy) winds through old-growth oak, pistachio, and strawberry trees. Entry JOD 7. The Soap House on-site sells olive oil soap made by local women's cooperatives
Lunch at RSCN lodge(1 hour)
Traditional Jordanian lunch spread for JOD 12 — stuffed grape leaves, fattoush, grilled chicken with sumac. Eat on the terrace overlooking the forest canopy
Return to Amman, dinner at Sufra(2 hours)
Drive back (1 hour) and dine at Sufra near the 1st Circle — a converted heritage house with the best upscale Jordanian cuisine in Amman. Mains JOD 8-15
Amman City Exploration
A full day discovering Amman's layers — ancient Roman, Ottoman, and buzzing modern. The city is more interesting than most travelers give it credit for.
Roman Theater and Archaeological Museum(1.5 hours)
A perfectly preserved 6,000-seat Roman theater from the 2nd century AD. JOD 2 entry. Climb to the top for city views. The Jordan Museum of Popular Traditions has traditional costumes and Bedouin jewelry
Downtown souk walk(1.5 hours)
Wander the gold souk, spice market, and fabric shops along King Talal Street. Try knafeh from Habibah Sweets (JOD 0.50 a plate) — the queue out the door tells you everything
Lunch at Al Quds Restaurant(1 hour)
Downtown institution serving maqluba (upside-down rice and chicken) for JOD 3. Packed with locals at noon
King Abdullah I Mosque(45 minutes)
Blue-domed Ottoman-style mosque, one of few in Jordan open to non-Muslims. Free entry (modest dress required, abayas provided). Interior blue mosaic dome is stunning. Open 8AM-11AM and 12:30-2PM
Evening at Books@Cafe(2 hours)
Amman's original artsy cafe with a terrace overlooking the city on Rainbow Street. Shisha and Arabic coffee with cardamom on the rooftop is the quintessential Amman evening
Rest Day — Cooking Class & Art Galleries
A slower-paced day after three full days of sightseeing. Learn to cook Jordanian food and explore at your own pace.
Late breakfast at Fann wa Chai(1.5 hours)
Art & Tea cafe near the 1st Circle — eggs shakshuka and fresh-squeezed orange juice with a city view. JOD 6 for a full breakfast
Beit Sitti cooking class(3 hours)
Hands-on cooking in a traditional Amman home — learn to make mansaf, stuffed vine leaves, and hummus from scratch. JOD 35 per person including lunch. Book at beitsitti.com, morning sessions at 10AM
Darat al-Funun art galleries(1.5 hours)
Free contemporary Arab art in beautiful stone buildings on Jabal al-Lweibdeh hill. Sculpture garden with city views. Open Sat-Thu 10AM-7PM
Dinner at Fakhr el-Din(1.5 hours)
Splurge dinner at Amman's finest Lebanese restaurant in a 1920s villa. Cold mezze spread (JOD 20 for two) and lamb cutlets. Book for sunset on the terrace
Dead Sea Day Trip
Drive 45 minutes southwest from Amman to float in the lowest point on Earth (430m below sea level). The Dead Sea's hyper-saline water makes sinking physically impossible.
Drive to the Dead Sea(45 minutes)
Hire a driver (JOD 40-50 round trip) or rent a car. The descent from Amman to -430m is dramatic — ears pop on the way down
Float in the Dead Sea at Amman Beach(2 hours)
Amman Beach (public) charges JOD 20 entry with towel, locker, and shower. Float on your back — 34% salinity makes it impossible to sink. Don't shave beforehand and do NOT get water in your eyes. 15-20 minutes floating is plenty
Dead Sea mud bath(30 minutes)
Slather the mineral-rich black mud over your body (free at the beach), let it dry 10 minutes, then rinse. Your skin will feel impossibly soft
Lunch at Dead Sea Panoramic Complex(1 hour)
Restaurant with sweeping views across the water to Israel and Palestine. Grilled meats and salads for JOD 8-12. The museum covers the Dead Sea's ecology and alarming shrinkage rate
Return to Amman via Mount Nebo (optional)(1.5 hours)
Stop at Mount Nebo where Moses is said to have seen the Promised Land — panoramic views across the Jordan Valley and Dead Sea. JOD 3 entry (included in Jordan Pass)
Departure Day
Final morning in Amman before heading to Queen Alia International Airport.
Breakfast at Shams El Balad(1 hour)
Organic cafe on Rainbow Street — excellent shakshuka, fresh bread, and locally roasted coffee. JOD 7-10 for a full breakfast. A perfect farewell meal
Last-minute shopping at Wild Jordan Center(1 hour)
RSCN-certified crafts supporting local communities, Dead Sea products, and Jordanian spices. The terrace cafe has great views too
Airport transfer(45 minutes)
Queen Alia Airport is 35km south. Allow 3 hours before your flight. Pick up Jordanian sweets from Al Nafura in the terminal
14-Day Jerash Itinerary
Arrival in Amman & Old City Orientation
Fly into Queen Alia International Airport (AMM). Transfer to downtown Amman (30 minutes by taxi, JOD 20-25). Base yourself in the Jabal Amman or Rainbow Street area.
Airport transfer to Amman(30 minutes)
Pre-book a hotel transfer or use Careem app (JOD 20-25). The highway into the city is modern and fast
Check-in at hotel in Jabal Amman(1 hour)
The House Boutique Suites or Sydney Hotel have great locations near Rainbow Street. Budget options from JOD 30/night
Walk Rainbow Street(1.5 hours)
Cafes, galleries, and street art. Stop at Hashem Restaurant (open 24 hours, falafel and hummus since 1952) — a full meal with juice costs JOD 3-4
Sunset from Amman Citadel(1 hour)
JOD 3 entry (included in Jordan Pass). Temple of Hercules columns frame the city. The panoramic view over downtown Amman is the perfect introduction
Jerash — The Roman City
Day trip to Jerash, 48km north. Hire a taxi (JOD 25-30 round trip with 3-hour wait) or minibus from Tabarbour station (JOD 1). Arrive at 8AM opening.
Drive to Jerash (depart 7:30AM)(45 minutes)
Arrive for the 8AM opening before the 10AM tour bus rush. Bring 1.5 liters of water and sunscreen — virtually no shade
Hadrian's Arch and RACE show at the Hippodrome(1.5 hours)
Start at the 13-meter triumphal arch. Catch the 11AM RACE show (JOD 12) — chariot races, gladiator fights, and legionary drills in the original 15,000-seat hippodrome
Oval Plaza, Cardo Maximus, and South Theater(2 hours)
Walk the 800m colonnaded street with original chariot ruts. 56 Ionic columns at the unique Oval Plaza. Test the acoustics at the 3,000-seat South Theater
Temple of Artemis and Nymphaeum(1 hour)
12-meter Corinthian columns that sway in the wind — insert a spoon in the base gaps to see. The ornate Nymphaeum fountain is easy to miss
Lunch at Lebanese House(1 hour)
Exit the site and eat in Jerash town. Mansaf and mezze for JOD 5-8 per person. Much better than the cafeteria inside
Ajloun Castle & Forest Reserve
20km west of Jerash — a 12th-century Ayyubid fortress and ancient olive forests. Jordan's green, hilly north is a surprise to most visitors.
Drive to Ajloun Castle(1 hour)
73km northwest of Amman through rolling green hills. Or 20km from Jerash if combining trips
Ajloun Castle (Qal'at ar-Rabad)(1.5 hours)
JOD 3 entry (Jordan Pass). Built 1184 AD by Saladin's generals. Seven towers, a moat, and sweeping views across the Jordan Valley to Palestine
Ajloun Forest Reserve hike(2 hours)
RSCN-managed. Roe Deer Trail (2km, easy) through old-growth oak and pistachio. Entry JOD 7. The Soap House sells handmade olive oil soap from local women's cooperatives
Lunch at RSCN lodge(1 hour)
Traditional Jordanian spread for JOD 12 — stuffed grape leaves, fattoush, grilled chicken with sumac on the forest terrace
Return to Amman, evening at Abdali Boulevard(2 hours)
Drive back (1 hour). Stroll the modern Abdali district. Dinner at Sufra near the 1st Circle — heritage house, upscale Jordanian cuisine, JOD 8-15 mains
Amman Deep Dive — Roman to Modern
Explore Amman's layered history from the Roman Theater to the downtown souks to the contemporary art scene.
Roman Theater and museums(1.5 hours)
6,000-seat theater from the 2nd century AD. JOD 2. Climb to the top for city views. The Folklore Museum and Jordan Museum of Popular Traditions are in the theater's wings
Downtown souk exploration(1.5 hours)
Gold souk, spice market, fabric shops on King Talal Street. Try knafeh from Habibah Sweets (JOD 0.50) — the queue is half the fun
Lunch at Al Quds Restaurant(1 hour)
Maqluba (upside-down rice and chicken) for JOD 3. A downtown institution packed with locals at noon
King Abdullah I Mosque(45 minutes)
Blue-domed mosque open to non-Muslims. Free entry (abayas provided). Interior blue mosaic dome is stunning. Open 8AM-11AM and 12:30-2PM
Darat al-Funun galleries(1.5 hours)
Free contemporary Arab art in stone buildings on Jabal al-Lweibdeh. Sculpture garden with city views. Sat-Thu 10AM-7PM
Dinner at Fakhr el-Din(1.5 hours)
Amman's finest Lebanese restaurant in a 1920s villa. Cold mezze (JOD 20 for two), lamb cutlets. Book the terrace
Dead Sea & Mount Nebo
Float in the lowest point on Earth (430m below sea level), then visit the biblical hilltop where Moses saw the Promised Land.
Drive to the Dead Sea(45 minutes)
Hire a driver (JOD 40-50 round trip). The descent from Amman is dramatic — ears pop as you drop below sea level
Float and mud bath at Amman Beach(2.5 hours)
JOD 20 entry with towel, locker, shower. Float effortlessly in 34% salinity. Don't shave beforehand, avoid eye contact with the water. Slather free mineral mud, dry 10 minutes, rinse for impossibly soft skin
Lunch at Dead Sea Panoramic Complex(1 hour)
Views across to Israel and Palestine. Grilled meats and salads JOD 8-12. The museum covers the Dead Sea's alarming shrinkage
Mount Nebo(1 hour)
Where Moses is said to have viewed the Promised Land. JOD 3 (Jordan Pass). Panoramic views across the Jordan Valley. The 6th-century mosaic floor in the church is exceptional
Madaba Mosaics & Baptism Site
The 'City of Mosaics' is 30km southwest of Amman. Combined with the biblical baptism site of Jesus, this is a full day of sacred history.
Drive to Madaba(30 minutes)
30km southwest of Amman on the King's Highway. The town is small and walkable
St. George's Church mosaic map(45 minutes)
JOD 1 entry. A 6th-century mosaic map of the Holy Land embedded in the church floor — the oldest surviving cartographic depiction of Jerusalem and the region. 15.7m x 5.6m with 2 million tesserae
Madaba Archaeological Park(1 hour)
JOD 3 entry (Jordan Pass). More stunning Byzantine mosaics including the Hippolytus Hall with mythological scenes. The mosaic school next door trains students in the ancient craft — you can watch them work
Lunch at Haret Jdoudna(1 hour)
Restored Ottoman courtyard restaurant. Lamb ouzi (slow-cooked in spices) and fresh tabouleh for JOD 8-12. The outdoor courtyard is lovely
Bethany Beyond the Jordan (Al-Maghtas)(1.5 hours)
UNESCO World Heritage baptism site of Jesus. JOD 12 (Jordan Pass). Guided tours only — you walk to the actual Jordan River bank. The tiny Elijah's Hill church and excavated Byzantine baptism pools are moving regardless of faith
Rest Day & Cooking Class
A slower day to recharge. Learn to cook Jordanian food and explore Amman at your own pace.
Late breakfast at Shams El Balad(1.5 hours)
Organic cafe on Rainbow Street — shakshuka, fresh bread, locally roasted coffee. JOD 7-10 for breakfast
Beit Sitti cooking class(3 hours)
Hands-on cooking in a traditional Amman home — mansaf, stuffed vine leaves, hummus from scratch. JOD 35 per person including lunch. Book beitsitti.com
Free afternoon stroll through Jabal al-Lweibdeh(2 hours)
Amman's artsy neighborhood — indie bookshops, street murals, and cozy cafes. Browse the Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts (free). Have tea at Jadal for Knowledge and Culture
Evening at Books@Cafe(1.5 hours)
Rooftop shisha and Arabic coffee with cardamom overlooking the city. The quintessential Amman evening
Drive to Petra via the King's Highway
The scenic King's Highway south through Dana Nature Reserve to Petra. One of the most beautiful drives in the Middle East. 230km, 4-5 hours with stops.
Depart Amman via King's Highway(2 hours)
Head south through Madaba. The road winds through dramatic Wadi Mujib canyon — Jordan's Grand Canyon. Stop at the viewpoint for photos
Dana Nature Reserve viewpoint(45 minutes)
Quick stop at the Dana Village overlook — a crumbling 15th-century stone village perched on a cliff above a vast canyon stretching to the Dead Sea. Free viewpoint. The eco-lodge here is one of Jordan's best (from JOD 80/night)
Arrive in Wadi Musa (Petra town)(1 hour)
Check into a hotel in Wadi Musa — Rocky Mountain Hotel or La Maison Hotel are mid-range with Petra views. Budget: JOD 25-40/night. The town is walkable to the Petra entrance
Petra by Night(2 hours)
JOD 17 extra. Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings only. Walk the Siq by candlelight (1,500 candles line the path) to the Treasury, where Bedouin musicians play traditional instruments. Starts 8:30PM. The flickering candlelit Treasury is an image you won't forget
Petra — The Treasury, Monastery & Core Trail
Full day exploring the Rose City. Entry included in your Jordan Pass (or JOD 50 single day). Wear sturdy shoes, bring 3 liters of water, and start at 6AM opening.
The Siq to the Treasury (Al-Khazneh)(1.5 hours)
The 1.2km slot canyon narrows to 3 meters wide with walls 80m high. The first glimpse of the Treasury through the canyon gap is cinema-worthy. Arrive at 6AM opening to have it nearly to yourself
Street of Facades and Royal Tombs(1.5 hours)
Continue past the Treasury along the main colonnaded street. The Urn Tomb, Silk Tomb, and Palace Tomb are carved into the cliff face. Climb into the Urn Tomb for interior views and the 70m-wide terrace
Lunch at the Basin Restaurant(1 hour)
The only proper restaurant inside Petra, near the trailhead to the Monastery. Buffet lunch JOD 15 — overpriced but convenient. Alternatively, pack sandwiches from Wadi Musa
Hike to the Monastery (Ad-Deir)(2.5 hours)
850 rock-cut steps up from the Basin — 45 minutes each way. The Monastery is even larger than the Treasury (47m wide x 48m tall) but sees far fewer visitors. The cafe at the top serves sweet Bedouin tea with a jaw-dropping view. Don't miss this
Exit via the Siq at golden hour(45 minutes)
The late afternoon light turns the sandstone walls from pink to amber. Most tour groups leave by 3PM, so you'll have the Siq largely to yourself
Petra — Hidden Trails & High Place
Day two in Petra exploring the less-visited trails. The High Place of Sacrifice offers the best panoramic view of the entire site.
High Place of Sacrifice trail(2.5 hours)
Turn left at the Treasury and climb the 800 carved steps to the summit altar at 1,035m. Panoramic views over the entire Petra valley. The descent via Wadi Farasa passes the Lion Monument and Garden Tomb — a quieter, more beautiful route than backtracking
Wadi Farasa to the Colored Sandstone(1.5 hours)
The soldier's tomb and triclinium in Wadi Farasa have the most vivid natural color banding in Petra — swirls of pink, purple, yellow, and cream in the rock face
Lunch and rest at a Bedouin tea tent(1 hour)
Bedouin families run informal tea tents scattered throughout Petra. Sweet sage tea (JOD 1-2) and shade. These families have lived in the area for generations — their stories about growing up in the caves are fascinating
Explore the Turkmaniyya tomb and Qasr al-Bint temple(1.5 hours)
The only freestanding structure in Petra (not carved from rock). The Turkmaniyya tomb has a remarkably intact carved Nabataean inscription explaining funeral rites
Last sunset views from the Treasury overlook(1 hour)
A short scramble up the trail opposite the Treasury (follow other hikers) gives a bird's-eye view down onto the iconic facade. The light at 4-5PM is magic
Wadi Rum Desert
Drive 1.5 hours south from Petra to Wadi Rum — a vast desert of red sand and towering sandstone formations. Lawrence of Arabia country.
Drive to Wadi Rum (depart 8AM)(1.5 hours)
The road from Petra descends into increasingly dramatic desert. Stop at the Wadi Rum visitor center to buy entry (JOD 5 with Jordan Pass) and meet your Bedouin guide
4x4 desert tour with Bedouin guide(4 hours)
A pick-up truck tour through the desert valleys — Lawrence's Spring, Khazali Canyon with pre-Islamic rock inscriptions, natural rock bridges (Burdah and Um Fruth), and the red sand dunes. JOD 40-60 per vehicle for 4 hours. The scale of the landscape is staggering
Lunch at a Bedouin camp(1 hour)
Traditional zarb lunch — meat and vegetables slow-cooked underground in sand for 4-6 hours. Tea brewed on open fire. Included in most overnight camp packages
Sunset from a sand dune(1 hour)
Your guide will take you to the best dune for sunset — the desert turns from orange to crimson to purple. One of the most photogenic sunsets on Earth
Overnight in Bedouin camp under the stars(overnight)
Sleep in a traditional goat-hair tent or upgrade to a bubble tent for stargazing. Basic camps from JOD 25/person including dinner and breakfast. Luxury camps (Sun City Camp) from JOD 120. The Milky Way is visible with the naked eye — no light pollution for 100km
Wadi Rum Sunrise & Drive to Aqaba
Catch sunrise over the desert, then head to Aqaba — Jordan's Red Sea beach town.
Sunrise over Wadi Rum(1 hour)
Wake at 5:30AM. The first light hitting the sandstone towers turns them from shadow to gold. Coffee brewed on the camp fire. This is why you stayed overnight
Morning camel ride(1 hour)
A gentle 30-60 minute camel ride through the desert (JOD 10-15). The Bedouin way of experiencing Wadi Rum — slower and more contemplative than the 4x4
Drive to Aqaba(1 hour)
70km south from Wadi Rum to Aqaba on the Red Sea. Check into a hotel — Kempinski is luxury, Captain's Hotel is solid mid-range (JOD 50/night)
Aqaba fish market lunch(1 hour)
Buy fresh fish at the central market and have it grilled at the adjacent restaurants for a small fee. Red Sea sea bream with tahini, JOD 5-8
Snorkeling at the South Beach(2 hours)
Aqaba's coral reef starts right off the beach — no boat needed. The Japanese Garden and Cedar Pride wreck are accessible with snorkel gear (rent JOD 5). The Red Sea has 1,000+ fish species and year-round warm water (22-28°C)
Sunset dinner at Ali Baba Restaurant(1.5 hours)
Waterfront seafood restaurant — grilled prawns and mezze with Red Sea views. Mains JOD 8-15. One of Aqaba's best
Rest Day — Aqaba Beach & Red Sea
A relaxed day on the Red Sea. Swim, dive, or just sit on the beach with a book.
Morning dive or snorkel trip(3 hours)
Two-tank dive with Ahlan Aqaba or Seastar Watersports (JOD 55-70). The Cedar Pride wreck at 25m is the highlight. Non-divers can snorkel the Aqaba Marine Park reef (JOD 3 entry). The coral here rivals the best in the Red Sea
Relaxed beach morning(2 hours)
Berenice Beach Club (JOD 15 entry with pool access) or the free public South Beach. The water is clear and warm year-round
Lunch at Rovers Return(1 hour)
British-run pub-restaurant with surprisingly good fish and chips and cold beer (JOD 4). A Aqaba institution for travelers
Free afternoon — souk and duty-free shopping(2 hours)
Aqaba is a duty-free zone — electronics and perfumes are cheap. The small souk near the fort has silver jewelry and spices. Aqaba Fort (Mamluk-era) is worth a quick visit, JOD 3
Seafood dinner at Royal Yacht Club(1.5 hours)
Upscale waterfront dining at the marina. Fresh Red Sea fish, grilled lobster (JOD 20), and marina views. Book ahead for an outdoor table
Departure via Aqaba or Amman
Depart from Aqaba Airport (AQJ) or drive back to Amman (4 hours on the Desert Highway) for your international flight.
Morning swim or beach walk(1 hour)
One last dip in the Red Sea. The early morning light on the water is beautiful, with Saudi Arabia's mountains visible across the gulf
Breakfast at Al Mohandes Bakery(45 minutes)
Local bakery famous for fresh-baked cheese manakish (flatbread with za'atar or cheese) and cardamom coffee. JOD 2-3 for a full breakfast
Airport transfer or highway drive(45 minutes to 4 hours)
Aqaba Airport (AQJ) is 15 minutes from town with Royal Jordanian flights to Amman (45 minutes). Or drive the Desert Highway to Queen Alia Airport (AMM) — 4 hours, flat and fast. Pick up Dead Sea products and Jordanian sweets at the airport
21-Day Jerash Itinerary
Arrival in Amman & Orientation
Fly into Queen Alia International Airport (AMM). Transfer to downtown Amman and settle into the Jabal Amman or Rainbow Street neighborhood.
Airport transfer to Amman(30 minutes)
Careem app or pre-booked hotel transfer (JOD 20-25). Avoid the taxi touts at arrivals
Check-in at hotel(1 hour)
The House Boutique Suites or Sydney Hotel near Rainbow Street. Budget options from JOD 30/night
Walk Rainbow Street(1.5 hours)
Dinner at Hashem Restaurant — open 24 hours, the best falafel and hummus in Jordan since 1952. JOD 3-4 for a full meal
Sunset from Amman Citadel(1 hour)
JOD 3 (Jordan Pass). Temple of Hercules columns and panoramic city views. The perfect introduction to Jordan
Jerash — The Roman City
Day trip to one of the best-preserved Roman provincial cities in the world, 48km north of Amman.
Drive to Jerash(45 minutes)
Taxi JOD 25-30 round trip or minibus from Tabarbour (JOD 1). Arrive for the 8AM opening
Hadrian's Arch and RACE show(1.5 hours)
Start at the triumphal arch. Catch the 11AM RACE show (JOD 12) — chariot races and gladiator fights in the original 15,000-seat hippodrome
Oval Plaza, Cardo Maximus, South Theater(2 hours)
800m colonnaded street with chariot ruts. 56 Ionic columns at the Oval Plaza. Test the acoustics at the South Theater
Temple of Artemis and Nymphaeum(1 hour)
Swaying 12-meter columns (insert a spoon in the base to see). The ornate 2nd-century fountain
Lunch at Jerash Rest House(1 hour)
At the entrance town. Mansaf and mezze for JOD 5-8. Far better than the site cafeteria
Ajloun Castle & Forest Reserve
Crusader-era fortress and ancient olive forests in Jordan's green northern hills.
Drive to Ajloun(1 hour)
73km northwest of Amman. Or combine with Jerash (20km between them)
Ajloun Castle(1.5 hours)
JOD 3 (Jordan Pass). 1184 AD Ayyubid fortress with seven towers and Jordan Valley views
Ajloun Forest Reserve Roe Deer Trail(2 hours)
2km easy walk through oak, pistachio, and strawberry trees. JOD 7. The Soap House sells handmade olive oil soap
Lunch at RSCN lodge terrace(1 hour)
Stuffed grape leaves, fattoush, grilled chicken. JOD 12 for the spread
Drive back, dinner at Sufra(2 hours)
Heritage house restaurant near Amman's 1st Circle. Upscale Jordanian cuisine, JOD 8-15 mains
Amman Deep Dive
A full day exploring Amman's Roman, Ottoman, and contemporary layers.
Roman Theater(1 hour)
6,000-seat 2nd-century theater. JOD 2. Climb to the top for city views
Downtown souk walk(1.5 hours)
Gold souk, spice market, King Talal Street. Knafeh from Habibah Sweets (JOD 0.50)
Lunch at Hashem (downtown branch)(45 minutes)
Falafel, hummus, and ful — JOD 3. Kings and backpackers eat here alike
Jordan Museum(2 hours)
JOD 5. Jordan's premier museum — the Dead Sea Scrolls, Ain Ghazal statues (9,000 years old), and excellent archaeological collections. Air-conditioned. Allow 2 hours
King Abdullah I Mosque(45 minutes)
Blue-domed mosque open to non-Muslims. Free entry with abayas provided
Dinner at Rakwet Arab(1.5 hours)
Traditional Jordanian food in a restored downtown building. Lamb mansaf and maqluba. JOD 6-10 per person
Rest Day — Cooking Class & Art
A slower day to recharge mid-trip with hands-on cultural experiences.
Late breakfast at Fann wa Chai(1.5 hours)
Art & Tea cafe — shakshuka and fresh orange juice with a city view. JOD 6
Beit Sitti cooking class(3 hours)
Cook mansaf, stuffed vine leaves, and hummus in a traditional home. JOD 35 including lunch. beitsitti.com
Darat al-Funun galleries(1.5 hours)
Free contemporary Arab art. Sculpture garden with city views. Sat-Thu 10AM-7PM
Evening stroll through Jabal al-Lweibdeh(1.5 hours)
Amman's artsy neighborhood — indie bookshops, street murals, cafes. Tea at Jadal for Knowledge and Culture
Dead Sea & Mount Nebo
Float at the lowest point on Earth and visit the hilltop where Moses saw the Promised Land.
Drive to the Dead Sea(45 minutes)
Hired driver JOD 40-50 round trip. Ears pop on the dramatic descent to -430m
Float and mud bath at Amman Beach(2.5 hours)
JOD 20 entry. Float effortlessly in 34% salinity. Free mineral mud bath — skin feels impossibly soft
Lunch at Dead Sea Panoramic Complex(1 hour)
Views to Israel/Palestine. Grilled meats JOD 8-12. Museum on the Dead Sea's ecology
Mount Nebo(1 hour)
JOD 3 (Jordan Pass). Where Moses viewed the Promised Land. 6th-century mosaic floor in the church
Madaba, Bethany & King's Highway Start
The City of Mosaics and the baptism site of Jesus, then begin the scenic drive south.
Madaba — St. George's Church mosaic map(45 minutes)
JOD 1. The oldest surviving map of the Holy Land, 6th century, 2 million tesserae embedded in the church floor
Madaba Archaeological Park(1 hour)
JOD 3 (Jordan Pass). Byzantine mosaics including the Hippolytus Hall. Watch students at the mosaic school practicing the ancient craft
Lunch at Haret Jdoudna(1 hour)
Ottoman courtyard restaurant. Lamb ouzi and tabouleh for JOD 8-12
Bethany Beyond the Jordan(1.5 hours)
JOD 12 (Jordan Pass). UNESCO baptism site of Jesus. Guided tours walk to the actual Jordan River bank
King's Highway to Dana Nature Reserve
Drive the spectacular King's Highway south from Amman. Stop at Kerak Castle before reaching Dana, Jordan's most beautiful nature reserve.
Drive south on the King's Highway(2 hours)
One of the Middle East's most scenic roads — through Wadi Mujib canyon (Jordan's Grand Canyon), past ancient villages and olive groves
Kerak Castle(1.5 hours)
JOD 2 (Jordan Pass). Massive 12th-century Crusader castle with underground tunnels. Reynald de Chatillon's fortress that provoked Saladin. Far less crowded than Jerash
Lunch in Kerak town(1 hour)
King's Restaurant near the castle entrance — simple but good grilled chicken and rice, JOD 4-5
Continue to Dana Nature Reserve(1.5 hours)
Continue south on the King's Highway through increasingly dramatic desert scenery
Check in at Dana Guest House(1 hour)
RSCN eco-lodge perched on the cliff edge of Dana Village. From JOD 80/night with dinner and breakfast. The crumbling 15th-century stone village is atmospheric. Views over a vast canyon to the Dead Sea rift are extraordinary
Dana Nature Reserve Hiking
A full day exploring Jordan's largest nature reserve — 308 sq km of sandstone canyons, desert mountains, and 800 plant species.
Wadi Dana Trail hike(5 hours)
14km one-way downhill from Dana Village to Feynan (arrange car pickup). Descends through sandstone gorges, past Nabataean copper mines, and into the Wadi Araba desert. Moderate difficulty. JOD 20 guide fee. One of Jordan's best hikes
Packed lunch en route(30 minutes)
The guesthouse prepares trail lunches — flatbread, cheese, cucumber, boiled eggs. Eat at the canyon viewpoint halfway down
Feynan Eco-Lodge afternoon tea(1 hour)
If you hike to Feynan, this candlelit eco-lodge (no electricity, solar powered) serves tea and local snacks. Run by the RSCN and local Bedouin. One of National Geographic's top 25 eco-lodges. Optional overnight from JOD 120
Return to Dana Village and evening stargazing(2 hours)
Transfer back to Dana (30 minutes by car). The night sky from the village terrace is spectacular — zero light pollution. Dinner at the guesthouse included with your stay
Dana to Petra
Short drive from Dana to Wadi Musa, the gateway town for Petra. Settle in and catch Petra by Night.
Morning walk around Dana Village(1 hour)
Explore the crumbling Ottoman-era stone village at dawn. Locals still live here — you'll see goats, chickens, and incredible light on the canyon walls
Drive to Wadi Musa (Petra)(1.5 hours)
90km south. Check into Rocky Mountain Hotel or La Maison Hotel (mid-range, Petra views). Budget: JOD 25-40/night
Lunch at Al-Wadi Restaurant(1 hour)
Near the Petra entrance. Reliable Jordanian food — fattoush, grilled meats. JOD 6-8 per person
Wadi Musa Turkish Bath (hammam)(1.5 hours)
Salome Turkish Bath on the main road. Full scrub, steam, and massage for JOD 25. Perfect pre-Petra relaxation
Petra by Night(2 hours)
JOD 17. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday only. Walk the Siq by 1,500 candles to the Treasury. Bedouin music echoes off the cliffs. Starts 8:30PM
Petra Day 1 — Treasury, Monastery & Main Trail
Full day in the Rose City. Jordan Pass covers entry. Sturdy shoes, 3 liters of water, start at 6AM.
The Siq to the Treasury(1.5 hours)
1.2km slot canyon narrowing to 3m with 80m walls. The first glimpse of the Treasury through the gap is cinema-worthy. 6AM arrival for near-solitude
Street of Facades and Royal Tombs(1.5 hours)
Carved cliff tombs — Urn, Silk, and Palace Tombs. Climb into the Urn Tomb for the 70m terrace views
Lunch at Basin Restaurant(1 hour)
Buffet JOD 15 near the Monastery trailhead. Or pack sandwiches from Wadi Musa
Hike to the Monastery (Ad-Deir)(2.5 hours)
850 steps up — 45 minutes each way. Larger than the Treasury (47m x 48m). Bedouin tea at the summit cafe with jaw-dropping views
Exit via the Siq at golden hour(45 minutes)
Late afternoon light turns the sandstone from pink to amber. Most groups leave by 3PM
Petra Day 2 — Hidden Trails & High Place
The less-visited trails reveal Petra's full scale. The High Place of Sacrifice has the best panoramic views.
High Place of Sacrifice trail(2.5 hours)
800 steps from the Treasury to the summit altar at 1,035m. Panoramic valley views. Descend via Wadi Farasa for the quieter route past the Lion Monument
Colored sandstone in Wadi Farasa(1 hour)
The soldier's tomb and triclinium have the most vivid natural color banding — pink, purple, yellow swirls in the rock
Bedouin tea tent break(45 minutes)
Sweet sage tea (JOD 1-2) and shade with Bedouin families who've lived here for generations
Qasr al-Bint temple(1 hour)
The only freestanding structure in Petra. The Turkmaniyya tomb nearby has a Nabataean inscription about funeral rites
Treasury overlook at sunset(1 hour)
Short scramble up the trail opposite for a bird's-eye view of the Treasury. The 4-5PM light is magical
Little Petra & Local Life
Visit Petra's lesser-known sister site and explore the local Bedouin culture around Wadi Musa.
Little Petra (Siq al-Barid)(2 hours)
Free entry. A miniature Petra 9km north of Wadi Musa — narrow siq, carved facades, and a painted Nabataean ceiling (the only surviving painted interior). Far fewer visitors. The trail connecting to Petra's back entrance is a beautiful 2-hour walk
Ammarin Bedouin Camp visit(2 hours)
A community-run tourism project outside Little Petra. Learn bread-baking in hot sand, try target shooting with a slingshot, and hear Bedouin stories. JOD 15-25 per person for the experience
Lunch at the camp(1 hour)
Traditional zarb (underground oven) lunch — lamb and vegetables cooked under sand. Included in the camp experience
Free afternoon in Wadi Musa(2 hours)
Rest, shop for Nabataean-inspired jewelry and sand art bottles at the local shops. Or hike to the Ain Musa (Spring of Moses) — the spring where Moses struck the rock
Dinner at My Mom's Recipe(1.5 hours)
Family-run restaurant in Wadi Musa with home-style Jordanian cooking. Lamb maklouba and fresh salads. JOD 7-10
Wadi Rum — Desert Arrival
Drive 1.5 hours south to Wadi Rum, the vast desert of red sand and sandstone towers that inspired Lawrence of Arabia.
Drive to Wadi Rum(1.5 hours)
Meet your Bedouin guide at the visitor center. Entry JOD 5 with Jordan Pass
4x4 desert tour(4 hours)
Lawrence's Spring, Khazali Canyon rock inscriptions, natural rock bridges (Burdah and Um Fruth), red sand dunes. JOD 40-60 per vehicle
Lunch at a desert camp(1 hour)
Traditional zarb — meat and vegetables cooked underground. Tea brewed on open fire
Sunset from a sand dune(1 hour)
The desert turns orange to crimson to purple. One of the most photogenic sunsets on Earth
Overnight in Bedouin camp(overnight)
Traditional tent or bubble tent for stargazing. Basic camps JOD 25/person (dinner + breakfast). Luxury: Sun City Camp from JOD 120. The Milky Way is stunning
Wadi Rum Sunrise & Deeper Exploration
A second day in the desert for deeper exploration — rock climbing, longer hikes, and the canyon systems.
Sunrise over Wadi Rum(1 hour)
Wake at 5:30AM. First light turns the sandstone towers from shadow to gold. Camp fire coffee
Burdah Rock Bridge hike(3 hours)
A scramble up to the highest natural rock arch in Wadi Rum (35m above ground). Moderate-difficult, requires a guide (JOD 25). The view from the bridge over the desert is vertigo-inducing
Camel ride through Barrah Canyon(1.5 hours)
A narrow canyon with towering walls — experienced on camelback the Bedouin way. JOD 15-20. Slower and more contemplative than the 4x4
Lunch in the shade of a cliff(1 hour)
Your guide prepares traditional Bedouin bread cooked in the sand and hot tea. Simple, perfect
Sandboarding on the red dunes(1.5 hours)
Borrow a board from your camp and slide down the steep red sand dunes. Free. The dunes near the Um Fruth rock bridge are the best
Second night under the stars(overnight)
Sleep out on mattresses in the open desert (weather permitting) — no tent, just you and the Milky Way
Wadi Rum to Aqaba
Morning in the desert, then drive to Jordan's Red Sea coast.
Morning tea and farewell to camp(1 hour)
Breakfast with your Bedouin hosts. The quiet morning desert has a peace unlike anything in the modern world
Drive to Aqaba(1 hour)
70km south. Check into Captain's Hotel (mid-range, JOD 50/night) or Kempinski for luxury
Aqaba fish market lunch(1 hour)
Buy fresh catch and have it grilled next door. Red Sea bream with tahini, JOD 5-8
Snorkeling at the Japanese Garden reef(2 hours)
The best snorkeling in Aqaba — coral starts right off the beach. Rent gear JOD 5. Warm water year-round (22-28°C), 1,000+ fish species
Dinner at Ali Baba Restaurant(1.5 hours)
Waterfront seafood — grilled prawns and mezze with Red Sea views. JOD 8-15
Aqaba Diving & Relaxation
A full day devoted to the Red Sea — world-class diving, beach time, and fresh seafood.
Two-tank morning dive(3 hours)
Dive the Cedar Pride wreck (25m) and the Japanese Garden reef with Ahlan Aqaba or Seastar (JOD 55-70). Even beginners can do a discovery dive (JOD 60)
Beach time at Berenice Beach Club(2 hours)
JOD 15 entry with pool access. Sun loungers, clear water, cold drinks. Or the free South Beach for a local vibe
Lunch at Rovers Return(1 hour)
British-run institution — good fish and chips, cold beer (JOD 4)
Glass-bottom boat tour(1.5 hours)
See the coral without getting wet — boats depart from the marina, JOD 10 per person for a 1-hour cruise over the reef
Dinner at Royal Yacht Club(1.5 hours)
Upscale marina dining. Fresh Red Sea fish, grilled lobster (JOD 20). Book an outdoor table
Rest Day in Aqaba
A free day to do as much or as little as you like. Aqaba is compact and relaxed.
Sleep in and slow morning(2 hours)
After two weeks of active travel, enjoy a proper lie-in and leisurely hotel breakfast
Aqaba Fort and Archaeological Museum(1 hour)
Mamluk-era fort near the waterfront. JOD 3. The museum covers Aqaba's history from the Nabataean period through Islamic eras
Duty-free shopping(1.5 hours)
Aqaba is a Special Economic Zone — no sales tax. Electronics, perfumes, and gold are cheaper here. The small downtown souk has silver jewelry and spices
Afternoon kayaking or paddleboarding(1.5 hours)
Rent from the South Beach operators — JOD 10-15/hour. Paddle over the reef in crystal-clear water
Farewell seafood dinner at Floka Restaurant(1.5 hours)
Local favorite for grilled fish — no frills, just excellent fresh seafood at honest prices. JOD 6-10 per person
Aqaba to Wadi Araba & Feynan
Drive north along the dramatic Wadi Araba valley — the desert rift between Jordan and Israel — to the candlelit Feynan Eco-Lodge.
Drive north through Wadi Araba(2.5 hours)
The road follows the Dead Sea rift with dramatic views of the Negev desert across the border. 180km to Feynan turnoff
Transfer to Feynan Eco-Lodge(45 minutes)
Leave your car at the Feynan access point and take the lodge's 4x4 shuttle (included). No roads lead to the lodge — that's the point
Afternoon hike with local Bedouin guide(2 hours)
Explore the copper smelting sites dating back 7,000 years. The area has the oldest copper mines in the world. Your guide shares Bedouin knowledge of desert plants and survival
Candlelit dinner at the lodge(1.5 hours)
Feynan has no electricity — everything is by candlelight and solar. Vegetarian buffet using local ingredients. The atmosphere is magical
Stargazing from the rooftop(1 hour)
The lodge provides telescopes and star maps. With zero light pollution, the Milky Way is a bright river across the sky. One of the top 25 eco-lodges in the world (National Geographic)
Feynan to Amman via the Desert Highway
Morning in the desert wilderness, then drive back to Amman for your final night in Jordan.
Sunrise walk in the canyon(1 hour)
The sandstone walls glow orange at first light. Listen to the silence — broken only by birdsong and distant goat bells
Bedouin bread-making workshop(1 hour)
Learn to make shrak bread on a domed metal plate over open fire with the local Bedouin women. Eat it fresh with za'atar and olive oil
Drive to Amman via Desert Highway(3.5 hours)
Return your car to the access point and drive the fast Desert Highway north. Stop at a highway rest stop for one last mansaf
Final evening on Rainbow Street(2 hours)
One last walk down Amman's hippest strip. Pick up souvenirs — Dead Sea products, Jordanian spices, and olive oil soap. Farewell dinner at Sufra
Departure Day
Final morning before heading to Queen Alia International Airport.
Breakfast at Shams El Balad(1 hour)
Organic cafe on Rainbow Street — shakshuka, fresh bread, locally roasted coffee. JOD 7-10. A perfect goodbye
Last-minute shopping at Wild Jordan Center(1 hour)
RSCN-certified crafts, Dead Sea products, and Jordanian spices. The terrace cafe for a final coffee
Airport transfer(45 minutes)
Queen Alia Airport is 35km south. Allow 3 hours before your flight. Pick up a box of Jordanian sweets from Al Nafura in the terminal
Travel Tips
Visa & Entry
Jordan Pass Replaces Visa Fee
Buy the Jordan Pass online (jordanpass.jo) before arrival — JOD 70 for the basic tier covers your visa fee (JOD 40) plus entry to 40+ sites including Jerash and Petra. Must stay in Jordan at least 3 nights. Without it, Jerash entry alone is JOD 10 and Petra is JOD 50.
transport
Easy Day Trip from Amman
Jerash is 48km north of Amman (45 minutes by car). Hire a taxi for JOD 25-30 round trip with 3 hours waiting time, or take the public minibus from Amman's Tabarbour bus station for JOD 1 each way (45 minutes, frequent departures). Combine with Ajloun Castle (20km west) for a full day.
Budget
Hire a Local Guide at the Gate
Licensed guides wait at the entrance and charge JOD 15-25 for a 2-hour tour. Absolutely worth it — without context, the ruins are just old stones. A guide brings 2,000 years of history alive and shows you hidden details like the swaying columns trick at the Temple of Artemis. Agree on a price before starting.
Eat at the Entrance Town, Not Inside
The cafeteria inside the archaeological site is overpriced and basic. Instead, eat at the restaurants clustered at the entrance in Jerash town — Lebanese House and Jerash Rest House serve excellent mansaf (Jordan's national dish) and mezze for JOD 5-8 per person. Friday lunch is busiest (local family day).
Safety
Bring Sun Protection and Water
There is virtually no shade across the sprawling site. In summer (June-August), temperatures regularly exceed 38°C. Bring at least 1.5 liters of water per person, wear a hat, and apply sunscreen generously. Start early (8AM opening) to beat the heat and the tour bus crowds that arrive around 10AM.
Local Customs
Don't Skip the RACE Show
Many tourists walk right past the hippodrome to the main ruins — the RACE (Roman Army and Chariot Experience) show is the only place in the world where you can watch Roman chariot racing reenactments in an original hippodrome. Schedule your arrival to catch the 11AM show before exploring the ruins.
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