Koh Chang is Thailand's third-largest island, and it still operates with a rawness that most Thai islands lost a decade ago. The jungle is thick, the roads are steep, the east coast is barely touristed, and the motorbike accident rate is genuinely concerning. Here's what I learned from two separate visits.
This isn't the standard "be careful on a motorbike" travel advice. Koh Chang's main road has sections with 30-degree gradients, blind corners, no guardrails, and a surface that gets lethal in the rain. I saw two accidents in one week — one tourist flew off a bend near Kai Bae, one went over the handlebars on the White Sand Beach hill.
If you rent a motorbike: wear a helmet (always), don't drive in the rain, use first gear on the hills, and don't drink and drive. If you're not confident on a motorbike, use the songthaew (shared pickup trucks) that run the west coast road. 50-100 THB (~$1.40-2.80) per ride.
June to October is monsoon season. Many resorts on Lonely Beach and the south coast close entirely. Boat trips to Koh Rang Marine Park stop running. The roads flood. The beaches get debris-covered.
If you visit in monsoon, stick to White Sand Beach (the most sheltered) and accept that the experience will be different. Prices drop 40-60% though, which is something.
Swimming at Lonely Beach and the southern beaches is dangerous during monsoon season. Rip currents have killed tourists. Swim where locals swim, and if you see red flags on the beach, don't go in.
Most tourists never leave the west coast. The east coast — accessible by the main ring road (only partially paved) — has fishing villages, mangrove forests, and accommodation at 50% of west coast prices. A beachfront bungalow at Salak Phet on the east coast: 400-600 THB (~$11-17). The same on White Sand Beach: 1,000-2,000 THB.
The east coast isn't for everyone — it's quiet, undeveloped, and far from the bars. But for budget travelers and people who want to see real island life, it's excellent.
Koh Chang is technically part of the Mu Ko Chang National Park. Foreigners pay a 200 THB (~$5.60) entry fee to visit attractions like Klong Plu Waterfall and Than Mayom Waterfall. This catches tourists off guard — carry cash.
The night markets at Klong Prao (Friday) and Kai Bae (Tuesday/Thursday) have incredible street food: pad thai 40 THB ($1.10), grilled seafood skewers 30-60 THB ($0.85-1.70), mango sticky rice 50 THB (~$1.40). Compare to restaurant prices on White Sand Beach at 120-200 THB for the same dishes.
The Centerpoint Ferry from Trat to Koh Chang runs every 30-45 minutes, 6 AM to 7 PM. One-way: 80 THB (~$2.20) for passengers, 120 THB with a motorbike. No need to book ahead — just show up.
Koh Chang's best waterfall — a three-tiered cascade surrounded by jungle. But by 10 AM, tour buses arrive and the swimming pool at the base gets crowded. Get there at 8 AM opening and you'll have it almost to yourself. Entry: 200 THB (~$5.60) plus 40 THB national park fee.
Bang Bao fishing village — built entirely on stilts over the water at the southern tip — has a boardwalk lined with seafood restaurants. Lunch prices are 20-30% lower than dinner, and the light on the water is better. A whole grilled fish with rice: 150-250 THB (~$4.20-7).
Koh Chang's beaches have poor snorkeling — murky water and limited coral. The real marine life is at Koh Rang Marine Park, a cluster of uninhabited islands 90 minutes south by boat. Day trips: 800-1,500 THB (~$22-42) including lunch and snorkeling at 3-4 sites. Visibility: up to 20 meters. Healthy hard coral, reef fish, and the occasional turtle.
Koh Chang means "Elephant Island" and several operations offer elephant experiences. Koh Chang Elephant Haven focuses on ethical, no-riding encounters — you feed, bathe, and walk with rescued elephants. 2,500 THB (~$70) for a half-day. Skip any operation that offers riding, painting, or shows.
The mangrove forests at Salak Kok on the east coast are beautiful and navigable by kayak. Rent one for 200-300 THB/hour (~$5.60-8.40) and paddle through channels between the mangrove roots. Best at high tide. You'll see mudskippers, crabs, and possibly a monitor lizard.
White Sand Beach has ATMs and most businesses take cards. But the east coast, Lonely Beach, and smaller businesses are cash-only. Bring THB from the mainland or hit the White Sand Beach ATMs early — they run out on busy weekends.
Koh Chang's jungle interior breeds serious mosquitoes. DEET repellent, long sleeves at dusk, and a fan in your room (mosquitoes can't fly in moving air). Dengue exists on the island — if you get a high fever with body aches after your trip, see a doctor.
The road around the island doesn't connect at the southern tip — there's a gap between Salak Phet and Bang Bao. You can't drive the full island in a loop. This catches people off guard when they try to ride from east coast to west coast via the south. You have to go back north.
Koh Chang is great, but the smaller islands in the Trat archipelago — Koh Kood (pristine, upmarket) and Koh Mak (tiny, quiet) — are even better for beaches and snorkeling. Boat transfers run from Bang Bao. Koh Kood is the real reward for people willing to go one island further.
Combine Koh Chang with Koh Tao for a two-island Thai itinerary — jungle and waterfalls in the east, diving in the Gulf.
