17 Patagonia Tips That Will Save Your Trek, Your Budget, and Your Toes
Patagonia is the most spectacular place I've ever been. It's also the place that taught me, in no uncertain terms, that nature doesn't care about your plans.
On my first trip, I wore cotton socks on the Laguna de los Tres trek. By the time I reached the turquoise lake beneath Fitz Roy's granite spires, my feet were blistered, soaked, and sending strongly-worded complaints to my brain. The view was worth it. The blisters were not.
Two trips later, here's what I know.
Money & Budget
1. Bring US $100 bills in cash. New ones. This is the single most important financial tip for Argentina. The "blue dollar" parallel exchange rate is 30-50% better than the official bank/ATM rate. Clean, new (post-2006) US $100 bills get the best rates at "cueva" exchange houses or via Western Union. This effectively makes everything in Argentina dramatically cheaper.
ATMs have low withdrawal limits ($20,000-40,000 ARS) and charge fees. Credit cards convert at the official rate. Cash is king.
2. Book refugios 6-12 months ahead for Torres del Paine. The W Trek refugios (bunk accommodations) on the Chilean side sell out half a year in advance. Book at verticepatagonia.cl or fantasticosur.com. If you miss the booking window, you can camp — but that means carrying a tent, sleeping bag, and cooking gear.
3. El Chalten's prices are 30-50% higher than El Calafate. It's a tiny town (population 1,600) with limited supply chains. Buy groceries at El Calafate supermarkets before taking the bus to El Chalten. This alone can save $50+ over a 3-day stay.
4. Park entrance fees are paid in Argentine pesos (cash). Los Glaciares National Park: $6,000 ARS ($7 USD at blue rate). Torres del Paine (Chile): $38,000 CLP ($40 USD) for foreigners. Carry cash in both currencies if you're crossing the border.
Weather & Gear
5. Pack for four seasons in one day. I'm serious. Morning: sunny, 15°C. Noon: wind picks up to 60 km/h. 2PM: horizontal rain. 3PM: clear blue sky. 4PM: snow. This is not an exaggeration. This is a Wednesday in Patagonia.
6. Your layering system should be: Base layer (merino wool, not cotton — NEVER cotton), mid-layer fleece, waterproof windbreaker shell. Each layer serves a specific function. Remove or add as conditions change, which will be constantly.
7. Wind gusts hit 120 km/h. Not occasionally. Regularly. On the Laguna de los Tres trail, wind can literally knock you sideways on exposed sections. Use trekking poles for stability. Don't hike on days when park rangers issue wind warnings.
8. Bring high-quality waterproof hiking boots (not trail runners). The Patagonian terrain is rocky, muddy, and unforgiving. Trail runners get soaked within the first hour. Waterproof boots with ankle support are non-negotiable for multi-day treks.
9. Sunscreen and sunglasses are critical — the ozone layer is thinner. UV radiation in Patagonia is among the strongest in the world. SPF 50 minimum. Polarized sunglasses. I got a sunburn through cloud cover in November.
Trekking
10. The Laguna de los Tres trek is the best day hike on Earth. 20 km round trip, 8-10 hours, starting and ending in El Chalten. Free. No permits needed. The final push (1 km of steep switchbacks through glacial moraine) is brutal, but it ends at a turquoise glacial lake with Fitz Roy's granite spires directly overhead.
Start at 7AM for best light and fewer crowds. Bring 2+ liters of water, snacks, rain gear, and sunscreen. The trail is well-marked — no guide needed.
11. The W Trek in Torres del Paine takes 5 days and 80 km. The three "prongs" of the W: the Torres (the famous towers), the French Valley, and Grey Glacier. Each is spectacular in different ways. Day 1 and 5 are the hardest. Reserve refugios or campsites months ahead.
12. Register at the park ranger station in El Chalten before hiking. They'll tell you current trail conditions, weather forecasts, and which trails are open. Some trails close due to high winds or fire risk. Check before you go.
Logistics
13. Fly between Patagonian destinations — distances are enormous. El Calafate to Ushuaia is 900 km. That's a 12-18 hour bus ride or a 1.5-hour flight. Aerolineas Argentinas and FlyBondi operate between major Patagonian airports. Book at aa2000.com.ar.
Buenos Aires to El Calafate: 3.5-hour flight. Direct flights are essential — there's no practical way to drive from BA to Patagonia in a reasonable time.
14. The bus from El Calafate to El Chalten is 3 hours and costs $8,000 ARS. Multiple daily departures. The road passes through the Patagonian steppe — flat, windswept, and strangely beautiful. Keep your camera ready — guanacos (wild llama relatives) and rheas (South American ostriches) are commonly spotted.
15. If crossing to Chile for Torres del Paine, bring your passport. The border crossing from El Calafate to Puerto Natales (Torres del Paine's base town) takes about 5 hours by bus including the border formalities. US, UK, and EU citizens don't need a separate Chilean visa.
Culture & Etiquette
16. Leave no trace. This is not a suggestion. Patagonia's ecosystems are fragile and take decades to recover from damage. Pack out all garbage. Stay on marked trails. Never build fires outside designated areas — wildfires have devastated the region (a 2011 fire in Torres del Paine burned 17,000 hectares). Camping outside designated zones is prohibited.
17. Eat the lamb asado. It's mandatory. Whole Patagonian lamb slow-roasted on a cross-shaped iron frame over open fire for 3-4 hours. The fat renders, the exterior crisps, and the meat falls apart. Try it at estancias near El Calafate: La Zaina ($25,000 ARS, includes ranch visit) or Estancia Cristina ($90,000 ARS, full-day boat + ranch experience). In El Chalten, Restaurante Ahonikenk serves excellent lamb. Pair with a Mendoza Malbec.
The Math
A 7-day Patagonia trip (El Calafate + El Chalten) using the blue dollar rate:
Flights from Buenos Aires: $150-300 USD round trip
For the Chilean side (W Trek, 5 days), add $400-700 USD for refugio bookings, park fees, and transport from Puerto Natales.
Patagonia is not cheap to reach. But once you're there — using the blue dollar, buying groceries in El Calafate, and hiking the free trails — it's more affordable than you'd expect for a world-class wilderness destination.
