19 Things Nobody Tells You Before Visiting Chefchaouen
I've been to Chefchaouen three times now. The first trip, I got everything wrong. By the third, I'd figured most of it out. Here's everything I wish someone had told me before my first visit.
Getting There
CTM and Supratours buses run from Tangier for about 75 MAD (~$7.50). The road winds through the Rif Mountains with zero guardrails and views that are either stunning or terrifying, depending on your relationship with heights. Book your CTM ticket at ctm.ma the day before — the afternoon bus fills up.
1. The bus ride from Tangier is three hours of mountain switchbacks.
2. Grand taxis are faster but require negotiation.
A grand taxi from Tangier to Chefchaouen costs 500-700 MAD for the whole car (up to 6 passengers). Split that among travelers and it's cheaper than the bus. But you need to negotiate firmly. The starting price will be 1,200 MAD. Don't pay it.
3. From Fes, it's a four-hour bus ride.
Another 75 MAD on CTM or Supratours. The road is better than the Tangier route but less scenic. If you're doing a Morocco loop, Chefchaouen fits neatly between Fes and Tangier.
The Medina
4. Get there at sunrise or don't bother with photography.
Between 7 and 9 AM, the medina is yours. The light is warm, the shadows are long, and the tour buses haven't arrived. By 10 AM, every photogenic corner has three people posing for Instagram. I'm not exaggerating — I counted.
5. Your suitcase will not survive the medina stairs.
No vehicles can enter the narrow alleys. You'll carry everything from the nearest gate (Bab el-Ain or Bab el-Onsar). Some riads involve three flights of stairs and passages so tight you'll be scraping walls. Pack a backpack. Seriously.
6. The blue paint is actually a thing residents maintain.
It's not for tourists (though tourists are the reason it continues). The tradition possibly dates to the 1930s when Jewish refugees began painting walls blue. Today, residents repaint regularly. If you visit in spring, you'll see ladders and fresh paint everywhere.
7. Download Google Maps offline before arriving.
Cell service in the medina is spotty. The alleys look identical. Without offline maps, you will wander in circles. I spent 40 minutes trying to find my riad on my first night. My riad owner eventually came to find me.
Money & Budget
8. This might be Morocco's cheapest destination.
A riad room in the medina: 300-600 MAD ($30-60). A full tagine dinner: 50-80 MAD ($5-8). Mint tea at a cafe: 10-15 MAD ($1-1.50). Budget travelers can comfortably manage on $30-40 per day including accommodation and food. I challenge you to find a better value Mediterranean mountain town.
9. ATMs exist but don't trust them.
There are a couple of ATMs in the new town, but they sometimes run out of cash or simply refuse your card. Bring enough MAD from Tangier or Fes to cover your stay. Credit cards are accepted at exactly zero places in the medina.
10. Bargaining is expected but gentle here.
Chefchaouen's vendors are less aggressive than Marrakech or Fes. Start at about half the asking price and meet somewhere in the middle. The handwoven blankets are genuinely good quality — expect to pay 200-400 MAD for a nice one.
Food & Drink
11. Eat the goat cheese. Eat all the goat cheese.
Jben — fresh goat cheese sold at medina stalls for 5-15 MAD per round. Pair it with olives, bread, and a 10 MAD orange juice, and you've got the best meal in town for under $3. The Wednesday market has the widest cheese selection.
12. The tagine here is different from the rest of Morocco.
Chefchaouen tagines lean toward vegetables and olive oil rather than the heavy preserved lemon and olive style of Marrakech. The Rif Mountain influence shows in simpler, fresher flavors. Try the vegetable tagine with local goat cheese crumbled on top — I haven't found this combo anywhere else in Morocco.
13. Skip the restaurants on the main square.
Place Outa el Hammam's terrace restaurants charge tourist prices (80-120 MAD for a tagine) for mediocre food. Walk two alleys in any direction and you'll find family-run places charging 40-60 MAD for better versions of the same dishes.
Day Trips
14. Akchour Waterfalls are worth the effort.
Stunning cascades about 45 minutes by car from Chefchaouen, inside Talassemtane National Park. Entry is 10 MAD. The small falls are a 45-minute hike; the grand falls take 3 hours round trip. Bring swimwear — the natural pools are swimmable in summer. Hire a taxi for the day (~400 MAD) or arrange through your riad.
15. God's Bridge is spectacular but challenging.
Pont de Dieu — a natural rock arch spanning a gorge — is about 30 km from town. You'll need a half-day guided trek (300-500 MAD per person) and sturdy shoes. The trail is rocky and there's no shade. But the arch itself is otherworldly.
Culture & Etiquette
16. Don't photograph people without asking.
This is critical. Many locals, especially women and older residents, do not want to be photographed. Always ask first. Some artisans will expect a small tip (5-10 MAD) if you photograph them or their work. Pointing a camera at someone without permission is considered deeply rude.
17. You will be offered cannabis. A lot.
The Rif Mountains are Morocco's primary cannabis-growing area. Sellers will approach you in the medina, on trails, at bus stations. A polite "la, shukran" works. Don't engage in extended conversation — it just prolongs the sales pitch. It's illegal, even if enforcement is inconsistent.
18. Learn three Arabic phrases.
"Shukran" (thank you), "la" (no), and "b'saha" (enjoy your meal/bless you) will cover 90% of interactions. French works too — most Moroccans speak it. Spanish, oddly, works better here than in most of Morocco, due to the region's proximity to Spain.
The Big One
19. Two days is the minimum, three is perfect.
One day is not enough. You'll spend half of it getting there and getting oriented. Two days lets you see the medina, catch one sunset from the Spanish Mosque, and do a half-day excursion. Three days is the sweet spot — enough time to slow down, get lost on purpose, eat your weight in goat cheese, and still make it to Akchour.
Don't treat Chefchaouen as a day trip from Fes. It deserves more than that. And frankly, so do you.
