21 Dakar Tips That Will Save You Money, Time, and Confusion
Dakar isn't a city that gives up its secrets easily. The new airport is absurdly far from town. The traffic is legendary. The currency math requires a calculator. But once you crack the code, West Africa's most dynamic capital. For another vibrant African city experience, Addis Ababa offers equally rich culture at budget-friendly prices opens up completely. Here's what four trips taught me.
Getting There & Around
1. The Airport Is 47km From the City
Blaise Diagne International Airport (DSS) opened in 2017 and replaced the old city-center airport. It's modern, efficient, and an absolute trek from downtown Dakar. A taxi costs 25,000-30,000 XOF (~$40-50) and takes 45-90 minutes depending on traffic. The Dakar-AIBD Express highway (toll road) is the fastest route. Alternatively, the DDD bus shuttle runs for 5,000 XOF.
Arrange your hotel pickup in advance. Seriously. You don't want to negotiate a taxi at midnight after a long flight.
2. Uber Doesn't Exist Here
No ride-hailing apps operate in Senegal. Taxis are everywhere but meters are rare — negotiate the price before getting in. From the Plateau to Almadies: ~3,000-5,000 XOF. From the Plateau to Goree ferry terminal: ~2,000 XOF. Write down your destination in French for the driver.
3. Dakar Traffic Is No Joke
Avoid rush hours: 7-9AM and 5-7PM. A 20-minute drive becomes 90 minutes. Plan your days geographically — don't zigzag across the city. The Corniche road along the coast is scenic but slow. Car rapides (colorfully painted minibuses) are cheap (150-500 XOF) but routes are unmarked.
4. Learn Three Wolof Phrases
Senegal's national value is teranga — hospitality. Greetings are elaborate and expected. Never skip them.
"Nanga def?" — How are you?
"Maa ngi fi" — I'm here (the standard response)
"Jerejef" — Thank you
These three phrases will transform your interactions.
Money
5. The CFA Franc Is Pegged to the Euro
The West African CFA Franc (XOF) is fixed at 655.957 XOF = 1 EUR. This makes exchange rates predictable. Bring Euros for the best rates at banks and bureaux de change. USD is accepted but at worse rates.
6. Budget $40-60 Per Day
Dakar is affordable. A thieboudienne lunch at Chez Loutcha: 3,000-5,000 XOF (~$5-8). A good dinner: 5,000-8,000 XOF. Beer at a bar: 1,500-2,500 XOF. Hotel mid-range: 30,000-50,000 XOF ($50-80). You can live well on $50/day including one activity.
7. ATMs Work but Carry Cash Backup
Ecobank and SGBS ATMs are most reliable. Withdraw in larger amounts to minimize fees. Many smaller businesses, markets, and restaurants are cash-only. Keep 10,000-20,000 XOF in small bills for taxis and street food.
Sightseeing
8. Goree Island Deserves Half a Day Minimum
The UNESCO World Heritage Site is 3km offshore — a monument to the Atlantic slave trade. Ferry from Dakar port: 5,200 XOF return (~$8.50), runs every 1-2 hours. Island entry is free. The Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves) and its "Door of No Return" museum: 500 XOF.
Be respectful. This is a place of remembrance. No selfies at the Door of No Return. Buy art directly from the artists who live and work on the island.
9. The African Renaissance Monument Has an Elevator
The 49-meter bronze statue (taller than the Statue of Liberty) costs 6,500 XOF (~$10.50) to enter, which includes an elevator ride to the crown for panoramic views. Best at sunset. Allow 1.5 hours. It's controversial locally — built by North Korean sculptors at a cost of $27 million — but the views from the top are undeniable.
10. Lac Rose Is Best in Dry Season
The pink-hued lake 35km northeast of Dakar glows its deepest pink from November to May (dry season), especially December-January. During rainy season, the color fades. The salt content is 40% — you float like the Dead Sea. Hire a taxi for the day (~15,000-20,000 XOF) or join a tour ($30-40 USD). The salt harvesters who work the lake will explain the process and pose for photos.
11. The IFAN Museum Is Underrated
One of West Africa's finest museums, housed in a colonial-era building at Place Soweto. Collections of masks, textiles, musical instruments, and ceremonial objects. Entry: 500 XOF (~$0.80). Yes, eighty cents. Open 9AM-12:30PM and 2:30PM-6:30PM, closed Mondays. The Wolof and Serer textile collections are standout.
12. Ngor Island Is the Perfect Half-Day Escape
A tiny island 400m off Dakar's northwest coast, reached by pirogue (wooden canoe, 500 XOF each way). No cars. Simple beach restaurants. Ngor Right is one of West Africa's best surf breaks — consistent right-hander, best November-April. Board rental on the island: 5,000 XOF/day. Even if you don't surf, the quiet beaches are a welcome break from Dakar's intensity.
Food
13. Eat Thieboudienne or You Haven't Been to Senegal
Senegal's national dish — fish, rice, and vegetables simmered in tomato sauce — is UNESCO-recognized Intangible Cultural Heritage. Chez Loutcha in the Plateau neighborhood serves one of the best versions. 3,000-5,000 XOF. Thieboudienne is a lunch dish — restaurants serve it from noon to 3PM.
14. Yassa Poulet Is the Second Essential
Onion-marinated grilled chicken. Sweet, tangy, and addictive. Available at most Senegalese restaurants. La Calebasse does a particularly good version in a traditional setting.
15. Never Refuse the Third Round of Ataya
The Senegalese mint tea ceremony (ataya) has three rounds. The first is bitter (like life), the second is moderate, the third is sweet. Refusing the third round is culturally rude. Accept it. Sip it slowly. This is teranga in a glass.
16. Try Touba Coffee
Spiced with djar pepper (Selim pepper), Touba coffee is unique to Senegal. Sold by street vendors for 100-200 XOF per cup. It's peppery, aromatic, and nothing like any coffee you've had before.
Safety & Customs
17. Petty Theft Is the Main Concern
Dakar is relatively safe by West African standards, but pickpocketing is common at Sandaga Market, the Goree ferry terminal, and around hotels. Don't flash phones or jewelry. Use a money belt. Avoid walking alone late at night in Medina and Grand Yoff.
18. Yellow Fever Vaccination Is Required
You need a yellow fever vaccination certificate to enter Senegal. Get vaccinated at least 10 days before travel. This is not optional — they check at immigration.
19. Dress Comfortably but Modestly at Religious Sites
Senegal is 95% Muslim. Casual Western clothing is fine in most areas, but cover shoulders at mosques and during traditional ceremonies. The Grande Mosquee in the Plateau is impressive from outside but generally not open to non-Muslim visitors.
20. Bargaining Is Expected at Markets
Start at 40% of the asking price at Sandaga Market and craft stalls. It's a social interaction, not a confrontation. Smile. Counter-offer. Walk away if you need leverage. They'll call you back.
21. Teranga Is Real — Accept the Hospitality
You'll be invited to share meals by strangers. You'll be offered tea by shopkeepers. You'll have long, elaborate greetings with people you've just met. This isn't a sales tactic — it's Senegalese culture. Teranga means hospitality, and Senegal is one of the warmest countries in the world because of it.
Accept the meal. Drink the tea. For another West African coastal experience, Essaouira offers a gentler introduction to Atlantic Africa. Ask about their family. You'll get more from these moments than from any museum.
