You're in Buenos Aires with a free day. The Buquebus ferry goes to Uruguay. But where: the colonial charm of Colonia del Sacramento (1 hour) or the capital-city energy of Montevideo (3 hours by ferry/bus combo, or direct ferry in 2.5 hours)?
I've done both as day trips and overnights from BA. The answer depends entirely on what you want.
Colonia: 1-hour fast ferry from Buenos Aires. Buquebus or Colonia Express. $40-80 roundtrip. Multiple daily departures. The ferry terminal in Colonia is a 10-minute walk from the old quarter. You can be eating lunch on a cobblestone street by noon.
Montevideo: Three options. Buquebus direct ferry (2.5 hours, ~$80-120 roundtrip but infrequent). Buquebus ferry to Colonia + bus to Montevideo (3.5-4 hours total, ~$60-80 roundtrip). Or ferry to Colonia, explore, then bus to Montevideo (combine both in a weekend).
Winner: Colonia for ease. The quick crossing maximizes your time on the ground.
Colonia is a UNESCO World Heritage town of colonial cobblestones, Portuguese and Spanish ruins, vintage cars, and a waterfront where the sunset allegedly impressed Alfred Hitchcock. It's compact — you can see the highlights in 4-5 hours. The vibe is quiet, romantic, and photogenic. Think: slow walks, wine, old stones.
Montevideo is a working capital city of 1.3 million. The Ciudad Vieja (old town) has beautiful crumbling Art Deco and Neoclassical buildings. The Mercado del Puerto is one of South America's great food markets — massive grilled meats at asado counters for $15-25, cold Medio y Medio (half sparkling wine, half white wine, the city's signature drink). The Rambla — a 22-kilometer waterfront promenade — is where the city breathes.
Montevideo has edge. Colonia has charm.
Colonia: Good but small-town. El Drugstore at the city gate has decent chivitos ($15-18, Uruguay's national steak sandwich). Charco Bistro is upscale riverside (mains $20-25). The options are limited — maybe 15-20 restaurants in the old quarter.
Montevideo: World-class. Mercado del Puerto's parrilla counters serve the best beef you'll eat outside a Buenos Aires steakhouse. Medio y Medio ($5-8 at any market stand) is the perfect afternoon drink. La Pasiva on Plaza Independencia does chivitos that are considered definitive. Jacinto and Escaramuza are the modern dining scene.
Winner: Montevideo by a wide margin for food.
| Item | Colonia | Montevideo |
|---|---|---|
| Ferry roundtrip | $40-80 | $60-120 |
| Lunch | $15-25 | $15-30 |
| Dinner | $20-35 | $20-40 |
| Hotel (mid-range) | $75-150/night | $70-130/night |
| Transport on ground | Free (walkable) | $3-10 (bus/Uber) |
Surprisingly similar. Uruguay is 30-50% more expensive than Argentina across the board. Montevideo actually has more budget options.
Winner: Tie — Montevideo has better value dining, Colonia has no transport costs.
Colonia: The Barrio Historico is the attraction. Museums are small — the Museo Portugues, the Museo del Automovil (vintage cars), the lighthouse. You'll absorb the culture through walking, photographing, and the gentle melancholy of beautiful old buildings in gentle decline.
Montevideo: The Museo Torres Garcia (free) houses Uruguay's most important modern artist. The Teatro Solis (guided tours $3) is a gorgeous 19th-century opera house. The street art in Ciudad Vieja is some of the best in South America. There's a tango culture here that predates Buenos Aires' — the Milonga del Angel on weekend nights is authentic and welcoming.
Winner: Montevideo for depth and variety.
Colonia is perfect for a day trip. Ferry over at 8 AM, explore the old quarter, lunch, sunset, ferry back at 7 PM. You'll see everything important and leave satisfied.
Montevideo is strained as a day trip. The 3-4 hours of transit each way leave you only 4-5 hours on the ground — enough for the Mercado del Puerto and a walk down the Rambla, but not enough to absorb the city. An overnight makes it much better.
Winner: Colonia for day trips. Montevideo needs an overnight.
Colonia transforms overnight. The day-trippers leave by 5 PM and the cobblestone streets are yours — atmospheric lighting, cats on warm stones, the river breeze. The emptiness is the luxury.
Montevideo overnight opens up the nightlife, the tango milongas, and the dinner scene. A Saturday night in Ciudad Vieja with live music spilling out of bars is memorable.
Winner: Both are excellent overnights for different reasons.
| Factor | Colonia | Montevideo |
|---|---|---|
| Transit time | 1 hr | 2.5-4 hrs |
| Day trip feasibility | Excellent | Strained |
| Food | Good | Outstanding |
| Culture | Charming | Deep |
| Photography | Exceptional | Very good |
| Romance factor | High | Moderate |
| Budget | Similar | Similar |
Choose Colonia if: You have one day, want something easy and beautiful, love colonial architecture, prefer quiet over energy, or are traveling as a couple.
Choose Montevideo if: You have an overnight, are a foodie, want to experience a real South American capital, love street art and tango, or find colonial charm insufficient.
The power move: Ferry to Colonia in the morning, explore until 2 PM, bus to Montevideo (2.5 hours, UYU $400/~$10), overnight in Montevideo with dinner at Mercado del Puerto and a tango milonga, ferry or bus back to Buenos Aires the next day. Both destinations in one trip. Uruguay in 36 hours.
Visa: Most nationalities enter Uruguay visa-free for 90 days. You clear immigration on both sides of the ferry — have your passport ready.
Currency: Uruguayan pesos (UYU) in both cities. ATMs available. Some Colonia businesses accept Argentine pesos at unfavorable rates — use UYU for better value.
Safety: Uruguay is South America's safest country. Both Colonia and Montevideo are safe for tourists, with standard precautions applying in Montevideo's busier areas.
The combo trip works best Thursday-Saturday or Friday-Sunday, giving you an overnight in each city without rushing. But even the compressed 36-hour version delivers a remarkably complete taste of Uruguay — colonial charm, capital-city culture, world-class steak, and Tannat wine.
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