Tahiti is the largest island in French Polynesia and the gateway to the South Pacific. It's shaped like a figure-8: Tahiti Nui (the big circle) and Tahiti Iti (the small peninsula). Most travelers treat it as a transit point — a night before connecting to Bora Bora or Moorea. That's a waste of what might be French Polynesia's most interesting island.
Papeete, the capital (population 130,000 metro), sits on Tahiti Nui's northwest coast. It's the only real city in French Polynesia — government buildings, a working port, traffic, and a nightlife scene that doesn't exist on any other island. Outside Papeete, the coastal road circles Tahiti Nui through small villages, black sand beaches, and waterfall valleys.
Tahiti Iti is wilder — fewer roads, fewer people, and the famous Teahupo'o surf break on its southwest coast. The interior of both sections is mountainous, jungled, and almost entirely uninhabited.
May to October (dry season): 24-28°C, low humidity, clear skies. Peak season with highest prices but best conditions for everything. July brings the Heiva cultural festival.
November to April (wet season): 28-32°C, humid, afternoon storms. Dramatic waterfalls, lower prices, fewer tourists. Cyclone risk is low but exists.
Fa'a'a International Airport (PPT) has direct flights from:
Rent a car ($50-80/day). Le Truck (local bus) circles Tahiti Nui but is slow and runs mainly mornings. The full coastal circuit of Tahiti Nui takes 3-4 hours with stops. Roads are paved and drive on the right.
Key distances from Papeete:
Papeete: Walking distance to the market, roulottes, and port. Mid-range hotels $120-200/night. Best for food lovers and market culture.
West coast (Punaauia): Resort area with the InterContinental and Manava Suite Resort. Overwater bungalows from $300-600/night. Moorea views.
Pensions around the island: Family-run guesthouses from $80-150/night. The east and south coast pensions are quieter and closer to nature.
Tahiti has French Polynesia's best food scene — which makes sense, since it has the only actual city.
Poisson cru: Raw tuna in lime juice and coconut milk. Available everywhere from $7 (market) to $30 (restaurant). The national dish and one of the best things you'll eat in the Pacific.
Les roulottes: Food trucks at Place Vai'ete. Grilled mahi-mahi, chow mein, crepes, poisson cru. $9-18 per plate. Cash. Every evening from 6 PM.
The Market upstairs: Lunch stalls with local workers eating poisson cru, grilled fish, and stir-fry. $7-11. The freshest, cheapest food in Papeete.
Sit-down: Le Coco's (French-Tahitian, $40-60), Le Lotus (overwater, $80-120), Les 3 Brasseurs (craft beer and French brasserie, $20-35).
Vanilla: Tahitian vanilla is exceptional. Buy beans at the market ($8-15 per bundle) rather than airport duty-free ($25-40). They last months in an airtight container.
| Category | Budget | Mid-range | Comfortable |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | $80-120/night | $120-200 | $200-600 |
| Food | $20-35/day | $35-60 | $60-120 |
| Transport | $15-25 (bus/taxi) | $50-80 (car rental) | $80-120 (car + tours) |
| Activities | $0-30 | $50-100 | $100-200 |
| Daily total | $115-210 | $255-440 | $440-1,040 |
French is the administrative language. Tahitian is spoken locally. English is understood at tourist businesses but not universally.
For a similar experience in a different setting, Fiji offers a compelling alternative.
For deeper Polynesian immersion without the French influence, Samoa offers authentic fa'a Samoa culture.
For a similar experience in a different setting, Hawaii offers a compelling alternative.
Tahitian black pearls are significantly cheaper in Papeete than in Bora Bora's resort shops. The Robert Wan Pearl Museum (free) teaches you about quality grading. Key factors: luster (shine), surface (fewer blemishes = better), shape (round is most valuable), and size.
A quality loose pearl: 5,000-15,000 XPF ($45-135). Mounted jewelry: 10,000-100,000 XPF+ ($90-900+). The market has good deals; compare several vendors. Certificates of authenticity matter for export.
Don't skip Tahiti. It's not a terminal. It's the heart of French Polynesia — and it beats loudest at a roulotte at sunset with a plate of poisson cru and a Hinano beer.
