The Complete Guide to Lakshadweep: India's Last Untouched Paradise
I'm going to be honest with you. Planning a trip to Lakshadweep nearly broke me. Not because the islands aren't worth it — they're worth every headache ten times over — but because the logistics of actually getting there make Machu Picchu permits look like buying movie tickets.
But here's the thing. Once you're on that tiny ATR plane from Kochi, looking down at atolls that glow like someone spilled neon paint into the Arabian Sea, you forget all of it. Every single frustration evaporates.
So let me save you months of confusion.
Overview
Lakshadweep is a chain of 36 coral atolls scattered 200-400km off Kerala's coast. Only 10 are inhabited. Total population: 70,000 people. That's fewer people than most Delhi neighborhoods. The tourism infrastructure is deliberately limited — the government wants it that way, and honestly, thank God for that.
Think Maldives, but Indian. And about one-fifth the price.
Best Time to Visit
October to May. Full stop. The monsoon months (June through September) bring rough seas that cancel ferries and reduce flights. December to February is peak season — you'll need to book 3-6 months ahead for flights because the planes only carry 40-50 passengers.
I went in late November. Water temperature was perfect, visibility was 25+ meters, and the weather held at 28-30°C every day.
Getting There
Two options, neither simple.
By air: Air India and Alliance Air fly from Kochi (COK) to Agatti (AGX). That's 1.5 hours. There are only 1-2 flights per day, and seats fill up months in advance. Expect to pay 5,000-12,000 INR (~$60-145) one way. Pro tip: sit on the left side for the best atoll views during descent.
By ship: MV Kavaratti and MV Lakshadweep Sea sail from Kochi. It's 14-20 hours depending on which island you're heading to. Berths cost 2,000-8,000 INR (~$24-97) depending on class. Ships run 2-3 times per week during season. I'd recommend the ship only if you genuinely enjoy long sea voyages — and don't get seasick.
The Permit Situation
This is where most people give up. Don't.
Every visitor — Indian or foreign — needs an entry permit from the Lakshadweep Administration. Indian nationals apply through lakshadweeptourism.com or through SPORTS (Society for Promotion of Nature Tourism and Sports). Apply 2-4 weeks before your trip.
Foreign nationals have it harder. You can only visit Agatti, Bangaram, and Kadmat, and you must book through authorized tour operators who handle permits on your behalf. Independent travel for non-Indians is basically impossible.
Where to Stay
Forget hotels. Forget Airbnb. Forget hostels. None of those exist here.
Your options are:
SPORTS package tours: 4,000-15,000 INR/person/day (~$48-181) including accommodation, meals, and activities. This is the most common way to visit.
Bangaram Island Resort: The only private resort, on an uninhabited island. 8,000-20,000 INR/night (~$97-242). Also the only place where alcohol is available (seriously — it's banned everywhere else).
Kadmat resort: Government-run, decent rooms, good diving access.
Guesthouses on Agatti: Basic but clean, 2,000-4,000 INR/night.
Book months in advance. I can't stress this enough.
What to Do
Bangaram Island
The crown jewel. An uninhabited teardrop of white sand where water visibility hits 20-30 meters. No phones, no WiFi. You snorkel off the beach and see reef sharks, rays, and sea turtles just hanging out like they own the place. Which, I suppose, they do.
The sandbar at the western end shifts with the seasons. At sunset, with a drink in hand (remember — only place with booze), watching the sky turn molten orange over the Arabian Sea with zero light pollution... I've traveled to 40+ countries and this ranks in my top three sunset experiences.
Agatti Island
Most trips start here (airport). The 6km lagoon along the western shore is shallow, warm, and absurdly turquoise. Kayaking across it (500-1,000 INR/hour from the SPORTS water sports center) is surreal — the water is so clear you watch fish scatter beneath you.
Snorkeling gear costs 200-400 INR to rent. The reef starts 20 meters from shore. Over 100 coral species and 600 fish species live here.
Kavaratti Island
The administrative capital. More developed (relatively speaking). The Marine Aquarium (20 INR entry) is small but worth it. Glass-bottom boat rides over the reef cost 300-500 INR per person. The island has 52 mosques for its tiny population — the Islamic heritage runs deep. And head to the jetty in late afternoon for spinner dolphins. They leap and spin close to shore. Free. Magical.
Kadmat Island
Best scuba diving in the archipelago. PADI-certified operators run introductory dives for 3,000-5,000 INR and certified dives for 2,500-4,000 INR per dive. Coral walls, manta rays (November to March), and sea turtles are the highlights. Visibility peaks December through April.
Minicoy Island
The southernmost island, culturally closer to the Maldives than mainland India. The 1885 lighthouse (20 INR, open to visitors) gives panoramic views from 50 meters up. The Tuna Canning Factory is oddly fascinating. But getting here is a commitment — it's 480km from Kochi, accessible only by ship.
Food
Fresh fish every single day. Tuna is king. Coconut is in everything — curries, rice, chutneys. The local specialty, tuna curry with coconut rice (thengapalchoru), from small eateries on Agatti costs 100-200 INR and is genuinely one of the best seafood meals I've had.
Most meals are included in SPORTS packages. Expect simple but flavorful cooking — nothing fancy, everything fresh.
Budget Breakdown
Item
Cost (INR)
Cost (USD)
Flight Kochi-Agatti (one way)
5,000-12,000
$60-145
SPORTS package (per day)
4,000-15,000
$48-181
Bangaram Resort (per night)
8,000-20,000
$97-242
Snorkeling gear rental
200-400
$2.50-5
Glass-bottom boat
300-600
$3.60-7.25
Scuba dive (intro)
3,000-5,000
$36-60
Local meal
100-200
$1.20-2.40
Safety
Extremely safe. Level 1 rating. Crime is practically nonexistent — it's a tiny, controlled-access territory. The coral protection rules, however, are strictly enforced. Don't touch, stand on, or break coral. Don't collect shells or sand. Use reef-safe sunscreen only. Violations carry fines and bans.
Essential Phrases
The locals speak Malayalam and Jeseri (Dweep Bhasha). English is limited. Learn a few Malayalam basics:
Namaskaram (hello)
Nandi (thank you)
Ethrayanu? (how much?)
The Honest Truth
Lakshadweep isn't for everyone. If you need luxury resorts, nightlife, or Instagram-ready restaurants with avocado toast, look elsewhere. The WiFi is terrible to nonexistent. ATMs exist only on Kavaratti and Andrott. Credit cards are rarely accepted.
But if you want water so clear it doesn't look real, beaches where you're the only person for kilometers, and a pace of life that makes even Goa seem hectic — there is nowhere else in India like this. Not even close.
