The Complete Lima Travel Guide: Ceviche Capital of the World
Lima sits on the Pacific coast of Peru, a sprawling capital of 10 million people that most travelers treat as a stopover on the way to Machu Picchu. This is a mistake.
Two of the world's top 10 restaurants are here. The ceviche is the best on the planet. Pre-Incan pyramids share blocks with apartment buildings. And the bohemian Barranco district has a nightlife and art scene that rivals anything in South America.
Here's everything you need to plan a proper stay.
Overview
Lima stretches along 70 km of Pacific coast. The tourist-relevant areas are concentrated in three neighborhoods: Miraflores (upscale, safe, cliffside), Barranco (bohemian, artsy, nightlife), and the Historic Center (colonial architecture, museums, less safe at night).
The city is at sea level — no altitude sickness, unlike Cusco (3,400m). The Humboldt Current keeps the coast surprisingly cool (15-25°C year-round). From May through November, a coastal fog called garua blankets the city in grey haze. It looks gloomy but rarely rains.
Best Time to Visit
December-April: "Summer." Sunny, 24-28°C. Best weather. Higher prices. Beach season.
May-November: Garua fog season. Overcast, 15-19°C. Lower prices, fewer crowds. The food is equally excellent year-round.
Year-round: Lima's culinary scene doesn't have a season. The best ceviche is available in January and July.
Getting There
Jorge Chavez International Airport (LIM) is in Callao, 12 km from Miraflores.
Airport Express Lima bus: $8 USD, 45 minutes to Miraflores
Uber: ~$25-35 PEN to Miraflores
Taxi (pre-booked): $50-70 PEN — only use official airport taxis or apps. Never accept random taxi offers inside the terminal.
Where to Stay
Miraflores: Safest, most convenient. Walking distance to the malecon, restaurants, and Huaca Pucllana. Hotels: $200-500 PEN/night mid-range.
Barranco: Artsy, more character, great nightlife. Boutique hotels and guesthouses: $150-350 PEN/night.
Historic Center: Grand hotels, colonial architecture, but less safe at night. Best for day visits, not for staying.
The biggest tourist mistake: booking a cheap hotel near the airport in Callao. Don't. It's unsafe and inconvenient.
Getting Around
Uber, Beat, inDrive: Essential. Safe and cheap ($8-25 PEN for most rides)
Between Miraflores and Barranco: 10 minutes by taxi, or a 30-minute walk along the malecon
What to Eat
The Essentials
Ceviche: La Mar ($35-50 PEN, lunch only 12-5PM), El Mercado ($30-45 PEN), or Surquillo Market ($12-18 PEN). Always at lunch. Never at dinner.
Anticuchos: Beef heart skewers from street vendors ($5-8 PEN). Best near Parque Kennedy in Miraflores in the evenings.
Lomo saltado: Stir-fried beef with onions, tomatoes, and fries (Chifa influence). Isolina in Barranco ($35-50 PEN) does an outstanding version.
Pisco sour: Pisco, lime juice, simple syrup, egg white, Angostura bitters. Hotel Bolivar (the "Cathedral of Pisco"), Gran Hotel Miraflores, or Ayahuasca in Barranco ($20-35 PEN).
Fine Dining
Central: #1 in the world. Ecosystem tasting menu ($750-950 PEN). Book 2-3 months ahead.
Maido: #5 in the world. Nikkei tasting menu ($400-600 PEN).
Astrid y Gaston: Gaston Acurio's flagship. Tasting menu ($550 PEN).
Budget
Menu del dia: Set lunch at local restaurants: $8-15 PEN for soup + main + drink. The best deal in Lima.
Market ceviche: Surquillo Market, $12-18 PEN.
Street anticuchos: $5-8 PEN.
Chicha morada: Purple corn drink, $3-5 PEN.
What to Do
Must-Do
Walk the Miraflores Malecon at sunset (free, 10 km)
Eat ceviche at La Mar or the market
Explore Barranco's street art and Bridge of Sighs (free)
Night tour of Huaca Pucllana ($15 PEN)
Drink pisco sours
Worth It
Paragliding from Miraflores cliffs ($80-120 USD)
Historic Center: Plaza Mayor, San Francisco Monastery catacombs ($15 PEN)
Surquillo Market food tour (self-guided, free entry)
Larco Museum in Pueblo Libre ($35 PEN, pre-Columbian gold and erotic pottery collection)
Budget Breakdown
Category
Budget
Mid-Range
Hotel/night
$80-150 PEN ($22-40 USD)
$200-500 PEN ($55-135 USD)
Food/day
$30-60 PEN ($8-16 USD)
$80-200 PEN ($22-55 USD)
Transport/day
$15-30 PEN
$30-60 PEN
Activities
$0-30 PEN
$50-200 PEN
Daily Total
$125-270 PEN ($34-73 USD)
$360-960 PEN ($97-260 USD)
Safety
Miraflores and Barranco are safe day and night. The Historic Center is fine during daytime — use taxis after dark. Callao should be avoided.
Keep phones in pockets. Carry passport copies, not the original. Use hotel safes.
Useful Spanish
Cuanto cuesta? — How much?
La cuenta, por favor — The bill, please
Muy rico — Very delicious (use constantly)
Salud! — Cheers (for pisco sours)
Pisco Sour Etiquette
The egg white is essential. Don't ask to skip it.
Never call it Chilean pisco sour.
Sip, don't gulp.
Also try chilcano (pisco + ginger ale + lime) — a lighter alternative.
Lima is South America's undisputed culinary crown. Give it 3-4 days minimum. The food alone justifies the trip. Everything else — the cliffs, the ruins, the sunsets over the Pacific — is a bonus that would anchor any other city's tourism campaign.
Lima's Best Free Activities
Walk the Miraflores Malecon at sunset (10 km, free)
Parque Kennedy evening cat colony and artisan market (free)
Barranco street art walk along Avenida Pedro de Osma (free)
Bridge of Sighs (Puente de los Suspiros) — make a wish while holding your breath
Watch the changing of the guard at the Government Palace (noon daily, free)
Surquillo Market food walk (free entry, eating costs pennies)
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Eating ceviche at dinner. Peruvians eat raw fish at lunch only. Restaurants that serve ceviche at dinner are catering to tourists, not quality.
Booking a hotel near the airport. Callao is unsafe. Stay in Miraflores or Barranco. Always.
Taking unmarked taxis. Use Uber, Beat, or inDrive exclusively. Safety issue.
Skipping Barranco. Most tourists stay in Miraflores and never cross into Barranco, which has better nightlife, more character, and better street art. It's 10 minutes by taxi.
Not bringing layers. Lima's garua season (May-November) is cool and overcast. Pack a jacket even in "summer."
