17 Things I Wish I'd Known Before Hiking the Drakensberg
I did some things right on my Drakensberg trip. I also did some things spectacularly wrong. Like wearing trail runners on the Tugela Gorge boulder section (my ankle still twinges), or leaving my rain jacket in the car on a day that started cloudless and ended in a hailstorm.
The Drakensberg is a forgiving mountain range — right up until it isn't. Here's everything I've learned so you can make new mistakes instead of repeating mine.
Weather & Safety
1. Lightning Is the Actual Danger
Not snakes. Not falling. Lightning. Summer afternoon thunderstorms in the Drakensberg are intense, and exposed ridges are death traps when the sky opens. Start every hike before 6AM and plan to be off high ground by 1PM. This is not optional.
2. Register Every Single Hike
Sign in at the park office before your hike and sign out when you return. If you don't sign out, they send search parties. If you skip registration entirely and something goes wrong, nobody knows where to look.
3. Winter Snow Is No Joke
Above 2,500 meters, winter (June-August) brings real snow and ice. Cathedral Peak in July requires crampons. Hypothermia is a genuine risk even on shorter hikes if you're wet and underdressed.
4. Carry an Emergency Whistle
Three blasts means SOS. Cell signal is nonexistent on most trails. A whistle carries further than a shout and costs ZAR 15 at any hardware store.
5. Bilharzia Exists Below 1,500 Meters
Some low-altitude rivers harbor bilharzia parasites. Don't swim in still water below 1,500m. Fast-flowing mountain streams above that altitude are generally safe.
Gear & Packing
6. Proper Hiking Boots, Not Trail Runners
The Tugela Gorge has boulder-hopping sections where ankle support matters. I learned this the hard way. Mid-cut waterproof boots. Non-negotiable.
7. Always Carry a Rain Jacket
The Berg creates its own weather. I've seen cloudless mornings turn to sideways rain in 20 minutes. A lightweight shell weighs 200 grams and saves you from misery.
8. Pack More Water Than You Think
Minimum 2 liters per person. For Cathedral Peak or any full-day trek, carry 3 liters.
9. Sunscreen at Altitude Burns Faster
At 2,500+ meters, UV exposure is significantly higher. SPF 50+ and reapply every 2 hours.
Logistics
10. Rent a Car — There's No Alternative
The Drakensberg is rural with zero public transport to trailheads. Rent in Durban (King Shaka International Airport, code DUR, 3-hour drive). Roads to major areas are tarred. Only Sani Pass needs a 4x4.
11. Fill Up on Fuel in Winterton or Bergville
No fuel stations in the mountains. Don't push your luck.
12. Stock Up on Groceries in Winterton
Champagne Valley has basically one small shop. The Spar in Winterton is your last real supermarket.
13. Book Ezemvelo Camps During School Holidays
Self-catering chalets from ZAR 400-800/night (~$22-45). Book at kznwildlife.com months ahead for December-January, April, and July.
Cultural Tips
14. Don't Touch the San Rock Art
Skin oils accelerate deterioration of paintings up to 3,000 years old. Stay on marked paths. No flash photography.
15. Giant's Castle Tour Times Are Fixed
Guided rock art tours at 9AM and 3PM only. Vulture hide (May-Sept) costs ZAR 350 (~$20) and needs advance booking.
16. Sani Pass Needs Your Passport
The pass crosses into Lesotho. No passport, no crossing. South Africa requires at least two blank pages.
17. Tipping Is Appreciated
10-15% for guides, waiters, hotel staff. At the Waffle Hut in Champagne Valley (ZAR 80-120 per plate), staff earn modest wages. ZAR 100 tip for your Sani Pass 4x4 driver goes a long way.
The Bottom Line
The Drakensberg rewards preparation and punishes overconfidence. Respect the weather, respect the altitude, respect the sacred sites, and you'll have one of the best hiking experiences in Africa.
I've hiked in Banff, the Dolomites, and Patagonia. The Berg holds its own against all of them — at a fraction of the cost.
