Everything You're Wondering About Livingstone and Victoria Falls, Answered
I get the same questions every time someone finds out I've been to Victoria Falls. The same fifteen questions. So I wrote them all down and answered them properly — with actual prices, real opinions, and the honest bits that tourism boards leave out.
Is the Zambia side or Zimbabwe side better?
For a different flavor of African adventure, offers Nile rafting at half the price.
Depends what you want. The Zambia side puts you closest to the Eastern Cataract with the Knife-Edge Bridge walkway — you'll be IN the spray, drenched within minutes. Devil's Pool is on the Zambia side. Most adventure activities (rafting, microlight, bungee) operate from Livingstone.
The Zimbabwe side has wider panoramic views. You can see more of the Falls' 1,708-meter width. The rainforest walk on that side is better for photography (when the spray isn't too heavy).
My take: do both. The KAZA UniVisa ($50) covers Zambia and Zimbabwe for 30 days. Walk across the Victoria Falls Bridge and see it from both angles. If you can only pick one, Zambia if you want adventure, Zimbabwe if you want photography.
How much is the Victoria Falls entry fee?
Zambia side: $20 for SADC residents, $20 USD for non-SADC visitors. Open 6AM-6PM daily. Zimbabwe side: $30 USD for non-residents. Keep your receipt — you can re-enter the same day.
When should I go for the most water?
June through August. The Zambezi floods from rains upstream in Angola and Zambia, and peak water hits the Falls around April-May, sustaining heavy flow through August. The spray column can reach 500 meters high. You'll be soaked. Cameras need waterproof housing.
But — and this is important — during peak water, the spray is so thick on the Zambia side that you literally cannot see the Falls. You can hear them. You can feel them. But you're essentially standing in a rainstorm looking at a white wall. Some people love this. I found it frustrating the first time.
When should I go for the best views?
September through December. Water levels drop, the spray reduces, and you can actually see the rock face, the gorge, and the individual cataracts. October is the photographer's month. The Falls don't stop — they're still enormous — but you can see them clearly.
Can I really swim at Devil's Pool?
Yes. And it's exactly as terrifying as it sounds. A natural rock pool right at the lip of the 108-meter drop. You swim to the edge, look over, and realize there's nothing between you and the Batoka Gorge except a submerged rock lip that's been holding back humans for centuries.
It's only accessible September through December when water levels drop enough. Trips cost $100-150/person through Tongabezi Lodge or Livingstone's Adventure (includes boat transfer to Livingstone Island). Minimum age varies — usually 12-15 depending on water levels. Book weeks ahead.
Is it safe? The operators have an excellent safety record. Is it comfortable? Your brain screams the entire time. Would I do it again? Already booked.
How much does the microlight flight cost?
Batoka Sky operates 15-minute flights ($180-220) and 30-minute flights ($280-320). The 15-minute flight covers the Falls and immediate gorge. The 30-minute goes upstream over the Zambezi, where you'll spot hippos, elephants, and crocodiles from the air.
The microlight is a two-seater ultralight aircraft — open cockpit, pilot behind you. It's loud and windy and the view is unlike anything else. This is the only way to grasp the full 1.7km width of the Falls.
Book early morning for the best light and calmest air.
Is the white water rafting really that good?
Yes. Class III-V rapids through the Batoka Gorge — 120-meter basalt walls on either side. Full-day trips: $160-190/person with lunch, transport, and photos. The rapids have names like Oblivion, The Devil's Toilet Bowl, and The Washing Machine.
Best from August to December when water levels are lower and the rapids are more defined. January-July, some rapids are washed out by high water.
How do I get there?
Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport (LVI) is 6km from Livingstone town center. Direct flights from Johannesburg (2 hours, South African Airways, Airlink). Domestic connections from Lusaka. A taxi from the airport to town costs about $15-20.
What about the sunset cruise?
A Zambezi sunset cruise is $65-85/person including drinks and snacks. The cruise goes upstream on the upper Zambezi above the Falls. You'll see hippo pods (they're loud), crocodiles on the banks, and possibly elephants coming to drink.
The sunset itself is spectacular — the Zambezi is wide here and the sky goes orange-red. Multiple operators run daily. Royal Livingstone offers a more upscale version with champagne.
Is Livingstone safe?
Generally yes. It's a tourist town and the police are present. Normal precautions: don't walk alone at night in unlit areas, don't flash expensive gear. The hippos and crocodiles are the actual danger — never swim in the Zambezi outside designated areas. Hippos kill more people in Africa than any other large animal.
What's the budget situation?
Livingstone is priced in USD for activities, and they add up fast:
Activity
Cost
Victoria Falls entry (Zambia)
$20
Devil's Pool swim
$100-150
Microlight 15 min
$180-220
Rafting full day
$160-190
Sunset cruise
$65-85
Bungee (bridge)
$160
Accommodation: budget lodges from $20-40/night (Jollyboys, Fawlty Towers). Mid-range: $60-120 (Waterfront, Maramba River Lodge). Luxury: $300-800 (Royal Livingstone, Tongabezi).
Food: local restaurants $5-10 for a meal. Tourist restaurants $15-30. Street food is harder to find than in East Africa.
Do I need antimalarials?
Yes. Livingstone is in a malaria zone. Take Malarone or doxycycline. Use DEET at dusk. The mosquitoes are aggressive near the river.
How many days do I need?
Three days minimum. Day 1: the Falls (both sides if possible). Day 2: big activity (rafting, microlight, or Devil's Pool). Day 3: sunset cruise and Livingstone town. Four to five days if you want to do multiple activities without rushing.
Is the Livingstone Museum worth it?
Honestly? It's modest. Exhibits on David Livingstone's expeditions and local Tonga culture. Entry is ZMW 20 (~$0.80). Allow 1-1.5 hours. Worth it if you have a free morning, but don't prioritize it over the Falls or the Zambezi.
What's the one thing most people miss?
The lunar rainbow. During full moon, the spray from Victoria Falls creates a moonbow — a rainbow at night. It's only visible for a few nights each month during high-water season (April-July). The park opens for special evening viewings. Check the schedule and plan your trip around it if you can.
It's one of the most surreal natural phenomena I've ever seen. And most visitors don't even know it exists.
